Valve clearance check/adjustment

Apex · July 9th, 2009, 06:18 PM

I think I posted this in the wrong forum, needs to be moved to pre-gen tech.

Forget the go/no-go gauge, just a regular set of feelers, taken off the "housing" works great. A 1/4" ratchet with a 9mm long socket works great for the locking nut; plus a small screwdriver.

I had to adjust 4 of the 8 valves. Started it at around 2:30pm or so, and had almost everything done by 6pm. I still have to put on the tank, front fairing, side panels and seat.

Off to order a new air filter tomorrow and do a carb sync.

This thing wouldn't look half bad in streetfighter trim.

...I like my plastics a bit too much though.

Alex · July 9th, 2009, 11:00 PM

/moved to pre-gen tech as per request

Wes · July 10th, 2009, 07:16 AM

I noticed you pulled the small cap on the alternator cover, in order to sight the 1T, 2T marks.

FWIW, IMHO this is unnecessary. Just get the cams pointing in a rough "Y" and you're fine. Precise locating of the cams is not important, as the cam heel is a perfect circle.

I also don't drain the rad when I do mine, unless the coolant needs flushing anyhow (hmm, that reminds me...). I unbolt the rad and let it hang by its hoses. I cock it so that the right points about 30 degrees forward to allow more room for the exhaust valves. How the heck did you access yours with the rad still there?

Wes

Wes

Apex · July 10th, 2009, 02:29 PM

I drained it because it has been in there for a while (about 2 years), so I figured I'd change it anyway.

I took it all apart because the manual said so. I follow instructions the first time, and do it my way the next time.

I ignore the "Y" setup. To me they say for it to be in a Y so you can check intake and exhaust at the same time. If you want to adjust the exhaust valves without even pulling the radiator and fan, rotate the cams where the lobes are facing up instead of towards the front. This give you the clearance you need to access them.

So I have new coolant, and next is the oil. I also plan on doing a brake fluid flush as well.

Obsidian · July 16th, 2009, 04:19 PM

Yay you. You just convinced me to go ahead and do mine.... eventually.

Apex · July 16th, 2009, 06:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wes

How the heck did you access yours with the rad still there?

VERY carefully. I used a 1/4 ratched on a deep socket. I have some small screwdrivers as well. If you stick with the Y setup, the lobe gets in the way. Just move the lobe where it points away from the adjuster, and go for it. I managed it just fine.

It was a very tight fit, I won't lie about that!

nate-bama · July 16th, 2009, 06:49 PM

good job, i never removed mine (radiator) either..just curious but how do you other members prefer to adjust your valves..loose???

July 9th, 2009, 06:18 PM	#1
Apex Livin' the Minimoto Life Name: Mark Location: Riding around in TX Join Date: Mar 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2022 Honda Navi, 2018 Z-125 Pro Posts: A lot.	Valve clearance check/adjustment I think I posted this in the wrong forum, needs to be moved to pre-gen tech. Forget the go/no-go gauge, just a regular set of feelers, taken off the "housing" works great. A 1/4" ratchet with a 9mm long socket works great for the locking nut; plus a small screwdriver. I had to adjust 4 of the 8 valves. Started it at around 2:30pm or so, and had almost everything done by 6pm. I still have to put on the tank, front fairing, side panels and seat. Off to order a new air filter tomorrow and do a carb sync. This thing wouldn't look half bad in streetfighter trim. ...I like my plastics a bit too much though. __________________________________________________ --- My IG Page --- My FB page! --- 2022 Honda Navi && 2018 Z-125 Pro

July 9th, 2009, 11:00 PM	#2
Alex ninjette.org dude Name: 1 guess :-) Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 7	/moved to pre-gen tech as per request __________________________________________________ Montgomery Street Motorcycle Club / cal24.com / crf250l.org / ninjette.org ninjette.org Terms of Service Shopping for motorcycle parts or equipment? Come here first. The friendliest Ninja 250R/300/400 forum on the internet! (especially Unregistered)

July 10th, 2009, 02:29 PM	#4
Apex Livin' the Minimoto Life Name: Mark Location: Riding around in TX Join Date: Mar 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2022 Honda Navi, 2018 Z-125 Pro Posts: A lot.	I drained it because it has been in there for a while (about 2 years), so I figured I'd change it anyway. I took it all apart because the manual said so. I follow instructions the first time, and do it my way the next time. I ignore the "Y" setup. To me they say for it to be in a Y so you can check intake and exhaust at the same time. If you want to adjust the exhaust valves without even pulling the radiator and fan, rotate the cams where the lobes are facing up instead of towards the front. This give you the clearance you need to access them. So I have new coolant, and next is the oil. I also plan on doing a brake fluid flush as well. __________________________________________________ --- My IG Page --- My FB page! --- 2022 Honda Navi && 2018 Z-125 Pro

July 16th, 2009, 04:19 PM	#5
Obsidian ninjette.org member Name: Brandon Location: Mobile, AL Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): 05 Ninja EX250R Posts: 156	Yay you. You just convinced me to go ahead and do mine.... eventually. __________________________________________________

July 16th, 2009, 06:49 PM	#7
nate-bama North Alabama Mtn. ryder Name: Nate Location: Alabama Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2006 Posts: 537	good job, i never removed mine (radiator) either..just curious but how do you other members prefer to adjust your valves..loose??? __________________________________________________ QTRltrPWR

July 10th, 2009, 07:16 AM	#3
Wes ninjette.org member Name: Wes Location: Kingston, ON Join Date: Jul 2009 Motorcycle(s): EX250-F14 Posts: 41	I noticed you pulled the small cap on the alternator cover, in order to sight the 1T, 2T marks. FWIW, IMHO this is unnecessary. Just get the cams pointing in a rough "Y" and you're fine. Precise locating of the cams is not important, as the cam heel is a perfect circle. I also don't drain the rad when I do mine, unless the coolant needs flushing anyhow (hmm, that reminds me...). I unbolt the rad and let it hang by its hoses. I cock it so that the right points about 30 degrees forward to allow more room for the exhaust valves. How the heck did you access yours with the rad still there? Wes Wes

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