March 8th, 2010, 01:39 AM | #1 |
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Dual headlight conversion
Here's a thought problem for the more electrically savvy forum members out there.
I'm considering a significant alteration to the headlight assembly. The end goal is to have hi/lo-beam capability on both sides (35W lobeams, 55w high) by way of a bi-xenon HID projector retrofit. I realize the retrofit will likely be prohibitively expensive, but as I said, this is primarily a thought problem at the moment. How much modification would it take to get this to work? The plan is to have no higher wattage draw than is stock in the system at any given time after start-up. Obviously the setup will depend on how the bulbs are wired/designed, but I'm gonna operate under the assumption that there's a separate prong/filament for the high beam and low beam with a common ground (3 prongs total vs stock 2). After studying the electrical breakout diagram (pg 16-53 of the FSM), I can't decide if I'd need a major rewire or something simpler: As I've tried to outline on the attached wiring diagram (original generously uploaded by jonthechron) it seems that both lights operate on the same circuit; the current system already handles the full power from both lights so splitting them while modifying the switching method (perhaps further upstream) would seem to be the trick. The stock 'hibeam' switch appears to be an SPDT with one terminal that doesn't go anywhere, essentially making it an SPST. It basically just adds the 'hi' bulb into the circuit. The trace is incomplete, but I tried to just highlight the salient points. Ninja_250R_Wire_Dia_v1.2.jpg I'm sure that simply splitting the power from the current high and low beam wiring wouldn't work, it seems just too simple. To make the bi-xenons work, I *think* I'd have to set up the headlight switch as a true SPDT (or perhaps replace with an SPCO to have a true 'off' setting for the lights when starting up) alternating between low and high, as well as remove the stock low beam (left bulb's) permanent connection to the power circuit. The permanent connection would need to be removed/severed (presumably) to prevent the bulb from running both low and high filaments at the same time). In this chart the bright green is lowbeam power, red is high-beam, blue is the supply. I feel like I'd need something more (obviously the new bulbs/projectors/ballasts), but this is the extent of changes I can see as necessary at 3:39am.... Ninja_250R_Wire_Dia_v1.2 - bi-xenon.jpg What have I missed? Thoughts? Suggestions/improvements? Thanks!
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March 8th, 2010, 03:48 AM | #2 |
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Name: Casey
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I'll be back to this after I study it some more when I'm awake.
I get to go apartment hopping today. Wish me luck.. Might be a long one.
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March 8th, 2010, 05:44 AM | #3 |
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Name: Remy
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A bi-xenon projector has only 1 bulb, the "high" part of the projector is a simple solenoid that activates and uses very little power. My opinion is to use the stock headlight wires to activates relays you install on a custom circuit directly on your battery along with fuses.
Xenons will uses up to a steady 7-8 amps(depending on ballast) at startup and slowly down until it warms up to only use around 2-3 amps. Use big gauge wires and don't cheap out on component! I recommend FX35 projectors, they are easy to work with and plenty of them are around. I did a bi-xenon retrofit on my car, if you have any question let me know ahah!
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March 8th, 2010, 07:14 AM | #4 |
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Rayme's right, get a 12 ga. wire back to the battery and fuse it as close as you can to the terminal. I personally don't like connecting right at the battery post. I think it's cleaner and more factory looking to connect at the starter relay and wrap the new wire into the harness IMHO. Then you'll need 1 relay fired by the factory L-beam wire to power up the ballasts. You should also do a new ground to the frame for the ballasts as the factory wires are a bit thin. The factory ground wire would be fine for the relay ground though.
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March 9th, 2010, 05:18 AM | #5 |
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Name: Casey
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Let me know if you don't have it figured out mang.
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September 4th, 2010, 10:19 AM | #6 |
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Name: Trevor
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i know this thread is a little old, but the more I think about it, the more this makes sense.
I found some reallly small bi-xenon projectors that pending confirmation from the seller should work for a retrofit without any (or very little) cutting. Here's how I think it would work: Light both headlamps from the bike's lo beam socket only. there are a couple ways you could do this, but the best way would be with a relay so the factory wiring triggers it. wire both HID ballasts to the relay, so when the bike starts both lights come on. you could add a delay to one of the lights if you're worried about having both come on at once and blowing fuses, but I"m not going to cover that. Since the lo beam stays on even when the high beam is on, this is ideal as the HID's will stay on, or ignite regardless of the handlebar switch position. Wire the projector housings solenoids to the bike's hi beam socket. again, this could be done with a relay, but I'd imagine the draw from these would be so insignificant it's probably fine to just wire them directly to the socket. with some factory style connectors this could be done without any modification to the bike's factory wiring, and could be put back to stock without any problems whatsoever. these are the projector housings that I'm looking at. from the specs the length looks like 5", and part of that is going to be what sticks thru the factory H7 hole, so I'd imagine that the depth on the reflector side should be around 4.5", maybe a little less. http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pro...roducts_id=236 excuse the simplicity of the attached drawing, but i think it demonstrates what i'm thinking. |
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September 4th, 2010, 04:30 PM | #7 |
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Name: Dave
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I'm currently researching this. there is a like to a write up on the KawiForums for the zx6.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=54365 I took some HL measurements and the HID kits seem to be too long for the TwoFiddy HL enclosure (check above thread for HID lengths). Actually the the 9005/9006 may fit, still researching. |
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September 4th, 2010, 08:59 PM | #8 | |
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Quote:
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September 5th, 2010, 05:15 AM | #9 | |
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Name: Dave
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Quote:
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September 5th, 2010, 06:41 AM | #10 |
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here's the video if you're interested.
it would really suck if these didn't fit, cause they are cheap, around $120 for a set, and they look like they work pretty good. I don't know how to embed youtube on this board, so you'll have to click the link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iFF2XoZJIBo |
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September 5th, 2010, 09:10 AM | #11 | |
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Name: Cuong
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Quote:
Link to original page on YouTube. |
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September 5th, 2010, 02:25 PM | #12 | |
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Name: Trevor
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Quote:
the other board I'm on the bbcode is simply |
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September 5th, 2010, 02:27 PM | #13 |
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if you use "youtubehd" instead, it makes it larger and the highest resolution available for the video:
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