Snapped the head off my coolant drain bolt - help!

[reggae5]

Well this week
I got my new front tire
I got my new seat
And still can't drive my bike because
I got my new leak
Seems when changing my coolant out and even though I used a torque wrench I managed to snap off the 8mm drain bolt.

Nice clean break just the threads left in. Tried a Grabit tool but it didn't seem to cut into what was left of the bolt. ( I have used the Grabit screw remover before and it works softer metal better I guess)
So I took my glue gun and tried to cover it as a temporary fix to be able to drive it down the the bike mechanic to have him fix it. Which I did today but he said he couldn't. A suggestion was to fill the hole and just use the drain hose from now on. So I picked up something called QuickSteel a epoxy putty. I leaned the bike over to it's right so coolant would not seep out and used the QuikSteel. It dried like a rock but I still had a leak. So I used the screwdriver and got the QuikSteel cap off of the bolt hole. I've googled the problem and see alot of people have used JB Weld. I thought this would be as good don't know if there is any difference or not.
Any idea's out there? Trying not to go to a helacoil just want to cap the leak and use the hose for coolant changes from now on.
(maybe there is a difference between a damaged bolt remover and damaged screw remover tool?)

[VaFish]

Drill it and use an Ezout.

http://www.amazon.com/piece-Easy-Scr.../dp/B0002UJNWE

Then replace plug with new one.

[cbinker]

future reference, you do not need to use a torque wrench on that bolt. normal socket, choke up on the handle and tighten till snug.

[reggae5]

Upon further investigation I find out that you do have to have the extractor that says bolt ( or bolt and screw)
Thanks VaFish that looks promising
cbinker I think I should have used that good old German torque spec
goodandtighten lol

[dcj13]

German torque not a bad idea in the future.

You might also want to try a left-hand twist drill bit while drilling for the easy-out. Often, the broken bolt will start to twist out while drilling.

[spooph]

If this were my bike, I would remove the water pump and pull that cover off, then drill and tap the hole with the next size up bolt, or replace the cover with a new one.

Unfortunately it doesn't look like you can buy just the cover: http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/...48915sch550387

so you'd have to find a used one.

Either way, removing it from the bike before drilling it is a good idea, because if metal shavings get into your cooling system all kinds of crazy things can happen - passages can start blocking, or the water pump seal could be damaged and start leaking coolant into the oil, etc, etc...

[APEmike]

Spooph nailed it.

Figure out what the bolt size is, go to hardware store, pick up a tap for the next size up, corresponding drill bit for the tap, and STAINLESS STEEL bolt, in hex, allen, or button head design of your choice, and if you can find it, a copper washer. I prefer button allen heads myself.

Put it into a vice and gently snug it with a towel between it and the jaws. A pair of vice grips and a work bench work as well, again use a towel. Drill STRAIGHT down through the old bolt, carefully tap the new threads, use the copper washer under the new bolt, or, use a thread sealing compound.

[VaFish]

As long as it wasn't cross threaded no need to remove the cover and drill it completely out.

When you drill for an EZ Out you don't drill all the way through the bolt, just deep enough to get a bite with the EZ out. No metal shavings get inside the engine.

Now if the bolt is cross threaded and snapped off you will have to re thread the hole anyway so better off removing the cover.