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Old March 9th, 2016, 12:27 PM   #41
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It is not overrated for me. I do what i'm most comfortable with depending in the circumstances. Weather it be a one foot stop of if i put both feet down, like i send i mostly do one foot. its work for me for the past 4ish years.

Thanks for the info though.
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Old March 10th, 2016, 05:10 AM   #42
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Clutch cable.. Check. New levers.. Check. Flush mounts.. Come on USPS!!!!!
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Old March 14th, 2016, 06:30 AM   #43
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Busy weekend!

Pulled the old clutch cable...


Just wow...

Got the new one on. with the new levers and flush mount lights. Put some new spark plugs in too. And its amazing what a bath can do!



Had to shim the brake lever a bit. Just some washers for now.

I have power!



The phone mount is on too.

And took it out for the first ride! So awesome being back on a ninja!

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Old March 14th, 2016, 06:32 AM   #44
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Oh, and my other half picked these up for me yesterday.

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Old March 14th, 2016, 10:36 AM   #45
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Those 2bros pipes sound ungodly amazing on the pregen. I wish they weren't so fragile or I'd still have them on my frankenstein bike, it changes the entire feel of the bike
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Old March 14th, 2016, 11:26 AM   #46
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Good to "hear".

Sorry, had to.

How are the fragile? In a fall?
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Old March 14th, 2016, 11:37 AM   #47
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The material is alluminum which wears through pretty quick

Mine survived a few low speed offs and a high speed lowside before getting ripped apart in a highside (granted there was extensive damage across the bike but still) so it wasn't too bad I'm just bummed that I don't have it anymore since I liked the sound so much. That said they can only take so much sliding as they are thin as well. Hopefully you never run into that issue
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Old March 14th, 2016, 11:52 AM   #48
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I hope not!

I should be ok, no immediate plans to track the bike. Maybe in a couple years... After i get the next bike, whatever that may be. Still kicking some ideas around and not in any rush.
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Old March 14th, 2016, 11:57 AM   #49
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I've come to learn over time that track riding isn't a cause of crashes, it's the mentality that people have when they go to the track. So long as you don't go trying to push your limits right out of the box you're much more likely to be fine. Still definitely worth doing a day or two for the learning involved
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Old March 14th, 2016, 12:03 PM   #50
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I do want to. That hasn't changed. I just don't know when...
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Old March 17th, 2016, 05:11 AM   #51
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Got the pipes on! Love love love the sound!!

Forgive the knocking, we still need to do the clutch.

Link to original page on YouTube.

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Old March 17th, 2016, 07:41 PM   #52
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Old March 17th, 2016, 07:45 PM   #53
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Really no need to wait for the track. It truly is just like the best ride in the twisties you've ever had, only better.

Knowing you, however slightly, I'm confident that you'd be just fine.

When you do get to the track, you'll be kicking yourself for not having done it sooner. I promise.
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Old March 18th, 2016, 04:38 AM   #54
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Really no need to wait for the track. It truly is just like the best ride in the twisties you've ever had, only better.

Knowing you, however slightly, I'm confident that you'd be just fine.


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When you do get to the track, you'll be kicking yourself for not having done it sooner. I promise.
I'm sure i will. I'll admit part of me having to wait is financial. I'll probably be able to sash som $$ aside when the other bike sells. Pluss I would like to drop more weight so i feel more confidant in some leathers . I'm getting there, dropped a pants size since January. That's more why i give it the year or so prediction.
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Old March 18th, 2016, 05:31 PM   #55
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You're down a pants size? Good job!
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Old March 18th, 2016, 06:04 PM   #56
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Thank you!
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Old March 19th, 2016, 01:12 PM   #57
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Next step is jetting... I know it's a lot of guess work getting the correct setup. Any suggestions?
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Old March 19th, 2016, 04:10 PM   #58
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Raise the needle position up 2-clips to start.. you will likely need to wait longer for warm-up before you'll be able to pull out to ride without choke on.
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Old March 20th, 2016, 06:49 PM   #59
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Raise the needle position up 2-clips to start.. you will likely need to wait longer for warm-up before you'll be able to pull out to ride without choke on.
I would probably start off with one size larger mainjet, then get the mixture screws dialed in.
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Old March 20th, 2016, 07:49 PM   #60
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I haven't seen any mention of valve adjustment. If you don't have dealer receipts showing the adjustment done within the last 6K miles then you should get that looked at ASAP as riding with tight valves will total the motor. Right now it seems like there's no known record of when that last was done.

On the clutch cable breaking at the nut, that's common because that spot, where the nut pivots in the hole in the lever, rarely gets lubed with a good high-pressure waterproof grease. The nut sticks in the hole and forces the cable to bend and flex as the lever is pulled, and that causes fatigue fracturing in the strands. I went through two cables in the first 20K miles on my '06 before I figured that out, and since then I've dipped that nut in grease ever 5K miles. My last cable has lasted over 50K miles so far.

FWIW, the right front and left rear signal stalks are identical except for the mounting base on the fronts. The same for the other pair of corners.

Definitely rejet and retune your carbs for those new mufflers, otherwise you can burn your exhaust valves due to excessively lean mixtures.

Also, there's another accessory power lead set up under the front fairing just like the pair you found under the side cover by the panel. There's not a lot of extra power available from the alternator on the EX250, but there should be enough for something like a phone charger or GPS.
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Old March 21st, 2016, 05:46 AM   #61
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More just looking to see what size jets others went with. Trying not to rip it apart over and over.

As for valves, that's on the list too. we are probably going to check them when we pull the carb off.
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Old March 21st, 2016, 05:58 AM   #62
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More just looking to see what size jets others went with. Trying not to rip it apart over and over.

As for valves, that's on the list too. we are probably going to check them when we pull the carb off.
For the stock airbox and aftermarket exhaust on the pregen you should be close to Keihn 100's with one or two washers, and 2.75 turns out on the mixture screws. With POD filters and an aftermarket exhaust on the pregen you should be near 114 Keihn main jets, 2-3 washers under the needle, and 3 turns out on the mixture screws. Every bike, exhaust, pod filter, and atmosphere would be different though.
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Old March 21st, 2016, 06:33 AM   #63
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Teri: Do yourself some favors when you do the carbs:

1) If the pregen is anything like the newgen, go ahead and take the tank off first. Makes getting at them a whole lot easier.

2) Buy a JIS screwdriver before you mangle the carb cap screws. Vessel makes one that is also has an impact driver action to it... just the thing for unsticking the cap screws on the carbs.

3) Replace those screws with socket head screws.
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Old March 21st, 2016, 07:35 AM   #64
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Thanks guys. I know there's lots of combinations to try. I will fully admit i know nothing about the adjustments. My other half is doing them and just wanted a good starting point.

Looking at the jetting threads is like trying to read greek to me.
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Old April 18th, 2016, 05:06 AM   #65
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Ok, overdue for an update. 2 weekends ago he got the carb off and we found part of the idle issue. Had some kind of obstruction in there. Not sure what.. By the time he had the time to get it all back together it was late in the week (and i had been sick) so we didn't get to test it. then he got sick.
So just got on it yesterday and... needs more work. He's going to change the jets around tonight or tomorrow.

Did get a new battery though. It's so cute!
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Old April 18th, 2016, 08:19 AM   #66
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Thanks guys. I know there's lots of combinations to try. I will fully admit i know nothing about the adjustments. My other half is doing them and just wanted a good starting point.

Looking at the jetting threads is like trying to read greek to me.
it makes a lot more sense if you get an understanding of how carbs work, so you know what all the jets, needles, diaphragms, floats and various technical jiggery pokery actually do.

Here's a pretty clear schematic.



Fuel gets into the engine via two routes. One is the slow (idle or pilot) jet, which allows a little fuel past the throttle plate (which is what actually moves when you twist the grip) even when it's fully closed.

The other is the main jet, which is below the needle.

How all this works is pretty cool.

As you open the throttle, the engine sucks more air through the carb. This creates low pressure in the throat (because Bernoulli).

See the little hole labeled 7? Air from above the diaphragm gets sucked through that hole because of the low pressure in the throat, which creates a vacuum in the chamber above (where the spring is).

This sucks the carb slide up, opening up the throat. The slide movement also pulls the needle out of the main jet, allowing more fuel to flow... which it does, again because of the low pressure in the throat that sucks it up through the main jet. vrooommmm....

So what are you doing when you adjust jetting? Short answer is you're changing the mixture, generally in the direction of making it richer.

Once your intake and exhaust mods are done, the amount of air flowing through the carb is pretty much set. By changing the jets and moving the needle, you're changing how much fuel flows for a given twist of the throttle, relative to the amount of air.

(Notice that the needle is tapered. The farther it gets pulled out, the more fuel can flow. What you're doing when you add shims is changing the amount of fuel that gets by when the slide moves.)

So think about the whole picture. Bigger jets, higher needle all add up to more fuel. But you can go too far and make the mixture too rich, which is just like riding around with your choke on all the time. So you need to get the right combination of jets, needle position, idle screw adjustment for your particular bike.

All this stuff varies by altitude and specific bike mods, which is why there is no one "best" answer.

So why do we need to rejet in the first place?

For one thing, the bikes come set pretty lean for emissions. Rejetting and/or adding clips to the needles gives you a little extra power even if you don't do anything else.

But you might as well go ahead and make the engine breathe easier. Snorkel delete, Kleen Air delete, K&N filter, freeer-flowing exhaust all add up to less restriction to air flow, which means more air and a leaner mixture if you don't compensate. So we rejet to rebalance the fuel/air mixture.

The cool part is that now there's more fuel AND more air, and that adds up to moar powah.
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Old April 18th, 2016, 10:59 AM   #67
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Your awsome! That's what he was trying to teach me but seeing the diagram helps a lot!!

Ok so it's still too lean. He said we need to put a bigger main jet in and maybe mess with the needle. Once he's happy with that he's going to tackle the mixture screws to get the idle happy.


I've seen the Snorkel delete and Kleen Air delete mentioned befor. I'll have to look more into them. One is removing the airbox i think? that one worries me if i get stuck in the rain. I tend to do that a lot.

He also was looking at the EFI kits and really wants to do that to the bike at some point. The just cost so much. The ones i've see cost as much as the bike did.
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Old April 18th, 2016, 11:52 AM   #68
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Snorkel delete is not the same as removing the air box. The snorkel is a tube that's jammed into the box. You just pull it out... no worries with rain.

Kleen Air requires removing some hoses and capping some fittings. That's all.

Both can be done in about an hour if you take your time.

There's nothing in the world wrong with carbs. They're elegant pieces of machinery. All EFI really buys you is easier tweaking (since it can be done with software) and not having to use the choke at startup. Big whoop.
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Old April 18th, 2016, 12:43 PM   #69
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Ah! Ok, that may be something we do then.

I'm more a fan of FI over carbureted. In part for what you just mentioned. Though it's (obviously) not a deal breaker for me.

So if we can find a EFI kit for ~$500 or so we'll probably give it a go.
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Old April 18th, 2016, 02:11 PM   #70
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Ah! Ok, that may be something we do then.

I'm more a fan of FI over carbureted. In part for what you just mentioned. Though it's (obviously) not a deal breaker for me.

So if we can find a EFI kit for ~$500 or so we'll probably give it a go.
Entrons kit is $500-$600
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Old April 18th, 2016, 02:31 PM   #71
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Jetting should be done from idle on up, not the other way around.

Jet for idle and low end, then jet for middle and top end. The jets and passages used at idle are also giving fuel throughout the entire RPM range. Start at the bottom and work your way up.
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Old April 18th, 2016, 02:32 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by RacinNinja View Post
Jetting should be done from idle on up, not the other way around.

Jet for idle and low end, then jet for middle and top end. The jets and passages used at idle are also giving fuel throughout the entire RPM range. Start at the bottom and work your way up.
Couldn't disagree more. Get the bike to run first. Then find the right main, then needle, then pilot, then mixture screws.
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Old April 18th, 2016, 04:32 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HoneyBadgerRy View Post
Entrons kit is $500-$600
That would be sweet! I'll look that one up.
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Old April 18th, 2016, 04:40 PM   #74
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Pregen's jetting is pretty much spot-on from factory, there isn't much performance gain unless you want to change the powerband.

Seems to me the bike just needs to be ridden a few tankful of Seafoam and fresh fuel, rev thru the range to get the carbs cleaned out that way.

Of course the aftermarket exhaust doesn't help.. put the OEM exhaust back on and just ride the thing.
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Old April 18th, 2016, 04:44 PM   #75
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No. I like it so we will make it work.

No offense but please stop telling me what to do with my bike. I do appreciate the information but you are coming off to strong.
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Old April 19th, 2016, 05:38 PM   #76
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Almost there! He wants to do one more tweak and with any luck Pikachu will be running perfect!
I'll post up what we went with when it's done.
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Old April 19th, 2016, 05:46 PM   #77
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I'll post what I decided was the best if it helps any. (Pods and yoshinurs full exhaust on a pregen). DJ 114 mains, needles in the third clip position, size 40 keihn pilots, mixture screws 2 ⅝ turns out.
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Old April 22nd, 2016, 05:08 PM   #78
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Beauty! Looks pretty clean too.

I got the same model in red.

How much did you get it for?
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Old April 22nd, 2016, 05:59 PM   #79
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$1k

Relatively good deal. Had some gremlins we worked out but overall very pleased with it.
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Old April 22nd, 2016, 06:01 PM   #80
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Did your SO ever get the jetting dialed in?
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