Valve adjustment tools?

ChaoSS · December 18th, 2012, 03:16 AM

Ok, so coming up on this new years weekend I need to do my valve adjustments (or at least check them, and probably adjust them). I checked with the local dealer, they carry the shims. I have the appropriate sockets, allen wrenches, ratchets, and torque wrenches to do most stuff on the bike. I know I need some feeler gauges (how much, where?), are there other specialty tools I'm going to need?

I'm hoping to do the tear down on saturday, get the shims, and put it back together sunday, if it takes me longer, I can finish the tear down on sunday and have all of monday and tuesday to put it back together, I don't work until wednesday afternoon. I just hate getting into a job only to find that I need more stuff, and stores are closed.

So what all do I need? Gasket making supplies, gaskets? Grease? Sealers? Specialty tools?

KawiKid860 · December 18th, 2012, 03:57 AM

Did one on my 500 a few months ago, first time will probably be a pain. Just go to any local auto parts store they'll have a variety of feeler gauges sets. I paid a little extra (like.. $8 I think) to get a snazzier set with more sizes. Ninja 250 wiki should have the procedure and everything required in it.. basically need various sizes of metric sockets, a torque wrench, feeler guages, take plastics off, remove gas tank, disconnect coolant lines and whatever other odds and ends that are in the way down their, pull of valve cover, check the clearances, adjust if necessary, put everything back together. Use the original gasket as long as you don't tear it lol.

ChaoSS · December 18th, 2012, 04:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KawiKid860

Did one on my 500 a few months ago, first time will probably be a pain. Just go to any local auto parts store they'll have a variety of feeler gauges sets. I paid a little extra (like.. $8 I think) to get a snazzier set with more sizes. Ninja 250 wiki should have the procedure and everything required in it.. basically need various sizes of metric sockets, a torque wrench, feeler guages, take plastics off, remove gas tank, disconnect coolant lines and whatever other odds and ends that are in the way down their, pull of valve cover, check the clearances, adjust if necessary, put everything back together. Use the original gasket as long as you don't tear it lol.

I have the manual, and I'll read the DIYs, but I like to go into these things prepared, and these resources don't always tell you what tools you need.

yblaser · December 18th, 2012, 06:26 AM

If you end up having to change out shims, you'll need calipers to measure the current shim thickness. You'll also need something to reset the CC tensioner. I just used a flathead screwdriver and had someone else bolt the tensioner in while I held it retracted with the flathead. If you don't have help you might need a tool more like what is suggested in the manual.

ChaoSS · December 18th, 2012, 12:13 PM

Caliper, thats right. I should have help, but would be nice tl be prepared to be without.do you know the name of the tool?

headshrink · December 18th, 2012, 12:20 PM

Don't forget refills on fluids. You'll need antifreeze, which you could recycle, but this is a good time to replace. You might as well do an oil change too while you're at it. As mentioned above, feeler gauges can be had at auto parts stores, or any remaining Sears with decent tool sections.

I know you said your dealer carries shims, but that doesn't mean he has them in stock. I would really recommend springing for a Hot Cams (or the likes) shim kit. They are cheap on ebay, you'll always have them on-hand, and you'll likely never have to order shims again....ever. Another bonus for the first timer is if you don't select the perfect size, you can try again.

Also, check out my cheat sheet. It does all the math for you.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=73240

Lastly... go SLOW, and be methodical. I've broken my fair share of things when I've done otherwise.

tooblekain · December 18th, 2012, 03:30 PM

Calipers....NO!!! DO NOT USE calipers to measure shim thickness use a micrometer. Calipers will not be accurate enough

Or if you're able to read the size of the shim on there, you can find or download a program available on various places on the net where you plug in your feeler gauge thickness/clearance and the shim thickness and calculate what shim you need for desired clearance. Or do the math and figure it out.

ChaoSS · December 18th, 2012, 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by headshrink

Don't forget refills on fluids. You'll need antifreeze, which you could recycle, but this is a good time to replace. You might as well do an oil change too while you're at it. As mentioned above, feeler gauges can be had at auto parts stores, or any remaining Sears with decent tool sections.

I know you said your dealer carries shims, but that doesn't mean he has them in stock. I would really recommend springing for a Hot Cams (or the likes) shim kit. They are cheap on ebay, you'll always have them on-hand, and you'll likely never have to order shims again....ever. Another bonus for the first timer is if you don't select the perfect size, you can try again.

Also, check out my cheat sheet. It does all the math for you.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=73240

Lastly... go SLOW, and be methodical. I've broken my fair share of things when I've done otherwise.

The dealer says he keeps them in stock. Of course, it could be the day he sold out of the size I need, I'll look into the kit you said.

I was already planning on changing the oil anyway, it's time for it, and yeah, I assumed I'd have to drain it, or at least most of it, to do this job, I'll make sure to get the coolant. I'm assuming regular coolant is good, I don't need anything special?

I'm planning on going slowly and taking a bunch of pictures in case I forget how something went together. Anything in particular I need to watch out for, or is it mostly just bolts that get broken or stripped by being careless?

Oh, and stupid question, but my google fu failed me when I looked it up, but what does TDC mean?

tooblekain · December 18th, 2012, 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChaoSS

The dealer says he keeps them in stock. Of course, it could be the day he sold out of the size I need, I'll look into the kit you said.

I was already planning on changing the oil anyway, it's time for it, and yeah, I assumed I'd have to drain it, or at least most of it, to do this job, I'll make sure to get the coolant. I'm assuming regular coolant is good, I don't need anything special?

I'm planning on going slowly and taking a bunch of pictures in case I forget how something went together. Anything in particular I need to watch out for, or is it mostly just bolts that get broken or stripped by being careless?

Oh, and stupid question, but my google fu failed me when I looked it up, but what does TDC mean?

TDC = Top Dead Center

ChaoSS · December 18th, 2012, 03:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tooblekain

TDC = Top Dead Center

Always something complicated like that isn't it?

yblaser · December 18th, 2012, 04:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tooblekain

Calipers....NO!!! DO NOT USE calipers to measure shim thickness use a micrometer. Calipers will not be accurate enough

While a micrometer is nice, calipers are plenty accurate. The shim kits come in 0.05 mm increments and even cheap calipers will measure down to 0.02 mm. Regardless, I would check the clearance again after replacing the shims. Just remember to put the tensioner back in before you turn the crank shaft or you'll lose your timing when the chain jumps some teeth.

dino74 · December 18th, 2012, 04:35 PM

Seems like the most common problem that could occur is stuck cam bolts. Remember to use a six point socket to minimize rounding. If the bolts are not budging, use some liquid wrench and try to get a 1/4 impact wrench.

ChaoSS · December 30th, 2012, 08:15 PM

Ok, so it was raining yesterday, so I started it today (sunday). I got as far as pulling the cam shaft covers, and managed to drop one of the dowels into the motor. Yeah, I know, not supposed to do that. So I went down and got a magnet to get it out, and now I'm waiting for light tomorrow to work on it some more. Any suggestions? It was the one on the back side, on the right hand side, so I think it dropped down where the timing chain runs down. Should I pull the chain out all the way? Or is there something down there in the way? I was thinking I should drain the oil so I can see, but I don't want the moving oil to move the dowel somewhere where it's harder to find/see. So, tomorrow morning I start fishing, if that doesn't net me any luck is there any suggestions?

Also, my exhaust side were all measuring .006 and .007, (inches), is it normal for them to be that far out of spec at the first check? I'm at 7,7xx miles, so not really past when I'm supposed to do it, and I ride it a little hard, since it's all highway miles, but I don't abuse it and do really high rev acceleration but once in a rare while.

So, tomorrow I get to go down and get some new shims, once I get these ones out and find which ones I need, and the dealership better have them in stock like he said he does.

ChaoSS · December 31st, 2012, 07:23 PM

Any advice on timing this thing? When I have it lined up where I marked it the exhaust cam is compressing the lifters, so when I get it all lined up and tighten down on the cam cover, it pops over a tooth. I try going over one tooth, and I tighten down and everything just goes wonky. Now I somehow keep skipping teeth while I'm trying to rotate the engine, even with the cover on. I don't get how you are supposed to put this thing back together.

yblaser · December 31st, 2012, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChaoSS

Any advice on timing this thing? When I have it lined up where I marked it the exhaust cam is compressing the lifters, so when I get it all lined up and tighten down on the cam cover, it pops over a tooth. I try going over one tooth, and I tighten down and everything just goes wonky. Now I somehow keep skipping teeth while I'm trying to rotate the engine, even with the cover on. I don't get how you are supposed to put this thing back together.

Is your cam chain tensioner reinstalled? If not it will skip teeth when you try to rotate the engine.

It took me a few times to get everything lined up and keep it lined up when tightening down the covers. Make sure to count the links to ensure everything it timed.

ChaoSS · January 1st, 2013, 02:11 AM

Thanks for the help, yblaser. I have that manual, I just didn't see that page. I wish when it says how to do the valve adjustments, and it tells you to remove something, or put it back, it would reference the pages where it tells you how to do that.

I finally got the chain in after about 6 hours of messing with it, and the bike is all back together now. Still need to do the oil change, but I finished after midnight, so I'll do that tomorrow.

December 18th, 2012, 03:16 AM	#1
ChaoSS ninjette.org sage Name: Tim Location: Goshen CA Join Date: Oct 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2012 red 250 ninja Posts: 740	Valve adjustment tools? Ok, so coming up on this new years weekend I need to do my valve adjustments (or at least check them, and probably adjust them). I checked with the local dealer, they carry the shims. I have the appropriate sockets, allen wrenches, ratchets, and torque wrenches to do most stuff on the bike. I know I need some feeler gauges (how much, where?), are there other specialty tools I'm going to need? I'm hoping to do the tear down on saturday, get the shims, and put it back together sunday, if it takes me longer, I can finish the tear down on sunday and have all of monday and tuesday to put it back together, I don't work until wednesday afternoon. I just hate getting into a job only to find that I need more stuff, and stores are closed. So what all do I need? Gasket making supplies, gaskets? Grease? Sealers? Specialty tools?

December 18th, 2012, 12:20 PM	#6
headshrink ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Bob Location: CA Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): '08 Ninja 250r, '14 CBR500r Posts: A lot.	Don't forget refills on fluids. You'll need antifreeze, which you could recycle, but this is a good time to replace. You might as well do an oil change too while you're at it. As mentioned above, feeler gauges can be had at auto parts stores, or any remaining Sears with decent tool sections. I know you said your dealer carries shims, but that doesn't mean he has them in stock. I would really recommend springing for a Hot Cams (or the likes) shim kit. They are cheap on ebay, you'll always have them on-hand, and you'll likely never have to order shims again....ever. Another bonus for the first timer is if you don't select the perfect size, you can try again. Also, check out my cheat sheet. It does all the math for you. http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=73240 Lastly... go SLOW, and be methodical. I've broken my fair share of things when I've done otherwise. __________________________________________________ Honda Interceptor VFR800 DLX (2014, 8th gen) Honda CBR500r (2014) - FOR SALE Kawi Ninja 250r (2008) - Restored and passed-down within family, only to be abandoned

December 18th, 2012, 03:30 PM	#7
tooblekain ninjette.org sage Name: Matt Location: San Diego, CA Join Date: May 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Triumph Bonneville; 2008 Ninja 250r (trackbike) Posts: 748	Calipers....NO!!! DO NOT USE calipers to measure shim thickness use a micrometer. Calipers will not be accurate enough Or if you're able to read the size of the shim on there, you can find or download a program available on various places on the net where you plug in your feeler gauge thickness/clearance and the shim thickness and calculate what shim you need for desired clearance. Or do the math and figure it out. __________________________________________________ CVMA #312SoCal TrackdaysBigHeadz RacingMotion ProFactory EffexLeatt Brace* Racetech Bell Woodcraft CFMVortexHotbodiesSurface Sun SystemsBrakingLiveWire EnergyFreegun Underwear

December 18th, 2012, 04:35 PM	#12
dino74 ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: dino Location: Oceanside, Ca Join Date: Nov 2010 Motorcycle(s): '09 250 Street, '09 250 Race, '13 300 Race Posts: A lot.	Seems like the most common problem that could occur is stuck cam bolts. Remember to use a six point socket to minimize rounding. If the bolts are not budging, use some liquid wrench and try to get a 1/4 impact wrench. __________________________________________________ CVMA #55

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December 18th, 2012, 03:57 AM	#2
KawiKid860 ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Murphey Location: Eastern Washington Join Date: Apr 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2002 Honda 919, 2004 Ninja 500R NAKED Posts: A lot.	Did one on my 500 a few months ago, first time will probably be a pain. Just go to any local auto parts store they'll have a variety of feeler gauges sets. I paid a little extra (like.. $8 I think) to get a snazzier set with more sizes. Ninja 250 wiki should have the procedure and everything required in it.. basically need various sizes of metric sockets, a torque wrench, feeler guages, take plastics off, remove gas tank, disconnect coolant lines and whatever other odds and ends that are in the way down their, pull of valve cover, check the clearances, adjust if necessary, put everything back together. Use the original gasket as long as you don't tear it lol.

December 18th, 2012, 06:26 AM	#4
yblaser ninjette.org newbie Name: Peter Location: Long Beach Join Date: Jan 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R Posts: 8	If you end up having to change out shims, you'll need calipers to measure the current shim thickness. You'll also need something to reset the CC tensioner. I just used a flathead screwdriver and had someone else bolt the tensioner in while I held it retracted with the flathead. If you don't have help you might need a tool more like what is suggested in the manual.

December 18th, 2012, 12:13 PM	#5
ChaoSS ninjette.org sage Name: Tim Location: Goshen CA Join Date: Oct 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2012 red 250 ninja Posts: 740	Caliper, thats right. I should have help, but would be nice tl be prepared to be without.do you know the name of the tool?

December 30th, 2012, 08:15 PM	#13
ChaoSS ninjette.org sage Name: Tim Location: Goshen CA Join Date: Oct 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2012 red 250 ninja Posts: 740	Ok, so it was raining yesterday, so I started it today (sunday). I got as far as pulling the cam shaft covers, and managed to drop one of the dowels into the motor. Yeah, I know, not supposed to do that. So I went down and got a magnet to get it out, and now I'm waiting for light tomorrow to work on it some more. Any suggestions? It was the one on the back side, on the right hand side, so I think it dropped down where the timing chain runs down. Should I pull the chain out all the way? Or is there something down there in the way? I was thinking I should drain the oil so I can see, but I don't want the moving oil to move the dowel somewhere where it's harder to find/see. So, tomorrow morning I start fishing, if that doesn't net me any luck is there any suggestions? Also, my exhaust side were all measuring .006 and .007, (inches), is it normal for them to be that far out of spec at the first check? I'm at 7,7xx miles, so not really past when I'm supposed to do it, and I ride it a little hard, since it's all highway miles, but I don't abuse it and do really high rev acceleration but once in a rare while. So, tomorrow I get to go down and get some new shims, once I get these ones out and find which ones I need, and the dealership better have them in stock like he said he does.

December 31st, 2012, 07:23 PM	#14
ChaoSS ninjette.org sage Name: Tim Location: Goshen CA Join Date: Oct 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2012 red 250 ninja Posts: 740	Any advice on timing this thing? When I have it lined up where I marked it the exhaust cam is compressing the lifters, so when I get it all lined up and tighten down on the cam cover, it pops over a tooth. I try going over one tooth, and I tighten down and everything just goes wonky. Now I somehow keep skipping teeth while I'm trying to rotate the engine, even with the cover on. I don't get how you are supposed to put this thing back together.

January 1st, 2013, 02:11 AM	#16
ChaoSS ninjette.org sage Name: Tim Location: Goshen CA Join Date: Oct 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2012 red 250 ninja Posts: 740	Thanks for the help, yblaser. I have that manual, I just didn't see that page. I wish when it says how to do the valve adjustments, and it tells you to remove something, or put it back, it would reference the pages where it tells you how to do that. I finally got the chain in after about 6 hours of messing with it, and the bike is all back together now. Still need to do the oil change, but I finished after midnight, so I'll do that tomorrow.