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Old May 25th, 2012, 07:23 PM   #41
opc
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I just mounted the two plastic L-brackets to the plate, and positioned it so that the integrated plate light was shining on the plate. I marked the holes with a black marker, and made sure there was clearance on the other side, then I drilled away.

I don't think it matters all that much... just put it where it looks best.

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Old August 8th, 2012, 02:57 PM   #42
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so i read this brief write up and halfway through the posts, it says DONT USE THAT FLASHER

well dammit, i bought 2 already lol

its electronic so wouldn't it work?
What about the one that is on the HBR site?
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Old August 8th, 2012, 07:00 PM   #43
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Well I did one bike today. Flasher works. Fits 98%.....
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Old August 9th, 2012, 02:40 PM   #44
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Just received our hot bodies undertail. I have to say it seems like a rip to pay so much money for a piece of plastic?
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Old August 9th, 2012, 03:11 PM   #45
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No kidding. I agree. They could have moulded it be like OEM ...

With that said I have 2 ledt over for sale that I won't be using. My two installs were enough for me! Lol
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Old August 10th, 2012, 02:06 PM   #46
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Has anyone installed a HBR Undertail on their 2012?

This install is a serious pain in the rear. Can't follow the directions step by step. This definitely takes some experience, creativity, improvising, etc to make it work! Almost done with it....
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Old August 13th, 2012, 01:03 PM   #47
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Okay - so the Hotbodies Undertail install is complete! It looks awesome...I put photos in one of my photo albums, if anyone gives a hoot and wants to look. I was going to do this myself but realized it is WAY out of my league - this is definitely not for someone 'new' to this type of stuff, IMO. My husband did all the work for me. (So sweet of him, I think I'll keep him.)

1.) We didn't cut anything but part of the tail light

2.) We drilled a total of 5 holes (2 of them in the undertail itself.)

3.) We actually had a hard time finding a 2 prong LED flasher relay. We weren't sure if a 3 prong would make a difference, and the folks at Autozone didn't have a clue either. They said they didn't carry any. They weren't very helpful. We ended up going to Cycle Gear and purchasing a "universal" relay that they suggested and it worked fine.

4.) There are no pre-drilled or marked holes for the tag. They leave that up to you. We chose the best spot for it to have the tag light shine on it

5.) There's definitely a gap under the back seat. I don't know how I'll fix it. I think of it as having a hair out of place: not that noticeable to others, but enough to drive me crazy.

6.) He had to slightly move the metal piece holding the brake fluid out of the way every so slightly so he could fit the undertail under the bike.
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Old August 23rd, 2012, 02:46 PM   #48
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Way to persevere! We have recently added the Hotbodies under tails to our store, based on the good things I've read on various forums.
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Old August 23rd, 2012, 03:05 PM   #49
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Honestly I didn't need to cut anything. It was fun. Just take your time. Lay the bolts and washers with the appropriate parts and set aside.
First install I did i made cuts like the directions said to. Second time on my other bike I didn't.
Also just use the flasher 552 at any auto store. As long as its electronic 552 it's good to go

Didn't drill anything but for the plate.
And I used rubber to stuff up between the rear frame and the fairing to minimize the gap

More pics on my newb thread
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=109816
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Old March 22nd, 2014, 06:10 PM   #50
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put one of these on today. Went fairly well. Originally i tried with out cutting as several people had posted that it is not necessary but it wasn't going to be even close to fitting on my bike. So i went back and cut, took 5 minutes with a hack saw. Afterwards it was still a really tight fit. Looked things over and saw that it was actually part of my taillight that was preventing the under tail from fitting right. So i trimmed a little off the base of the tail light and everything came together great.

^that being said i think it would have fit with out cutting the mud flap/battery plate if i would just trimmed the tail light piece.

This is definitely one of those jobs that takes you a few hours the first time but once you have completed it once you could do it again very quickly with out a single hiccup.

I like the look, my only complaint is that for the $ of these under tails i wish they put better wire on them. crap like 27gauge wire sucks. I got the smoke one for $110 and painted it black like Bob

P.S. the ll552 blinker worked fine for me as well (edit: did not work fine after riding for 30min)
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Old April 1st, 2014, 10:47 AM   #51
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After the install all seemed fairly well. Blinkers all worked great, but I went for first ride this year after the work being done and after about 30 minutes the blinker started acting funny. I need to look into it more but I feel like I am getting no response what so ever to my signals. No solid light, no blinking light, nothing. But then on occasion it will start working again??

Connections seem good so IDK? will have to look at it when I get home.

I will also add my rear fairing/taillight does sag just a little now, it is noticeable with the rear seat on, there is small gap between seat and fairing. I will be able to remedy it though.

Edit: replaced tridon ll552 or whatever it was with a no name LED specific blinker off ebay and it seems to have solved my problem. So for anyone else I would stay away from the tridon 552.

As far as sag, it is there and nothing much to do about it, I will shim under fairings above frame to bring it up a little. This seemingly has nothing to do with my stock battery box/fender, it was cut, and I was able to secure the end of it with the stock bolts near the tail light, it is in perfect place and solid as a rock, there is nothing holding the hotbodies undertail up in the rear besides the little lip over the tail light and the tail light isn't connected to anything so it only makes sense that it sags a bit. maybe 1/8th inch? again not noticeable until I put rear seat on.
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Old May 30th, 2014, 11:37 AM   #52
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ive had the undertail installed for a few weeks now, i have that gap between the fairings and the seat or cowl, ive seen some pics on this thread where the cowl is actually flush, did anyone figure out how to fix this sagging besides trying to stuff something in between?
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Old May 30th, 2014, 01:20 PM   #53
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This undertail looks so slick. But $200? Why not just break out some fiberglass or ABS and cement, and bondo? Wouldn't be too hard to mod an OEM undertail, I wouldn't think.
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Old June 2nd, 2014, 03:23 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSavvy View Post
This undertail looks so slick. But $200? Why not just break out some fiberglass or ABS and cement, and bondo? Wouldn't be too hard to mod an OEM undertail, I wouldn't think.
$110 for the smoke
it's a little different, but non issue IMO especially if you have a black bike
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Old June 2nd, 2014, 03:26 PM   #55
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ive had the undertail installed for a few weeks now, i have that gap between the fairings and the seat or cowl, ive seen some pics on this thread where the cowl is actually flush, did anyone figure out how to fix this sagging besides trying to stuff something in between?
i shimmed the rear fender with some cut pieces of rubber tubing its not as bad as it was, it doesn't bother me any more. but my tail light cover piece never sat right since i got the bike so that is still a bit amiss.

Somewhere on the forum there is a slick post about getting a seat cowl and doing some mods to it and other things to make it sit flush. similar things might be able to be done with the seat as well.

I have been thinking about getting a seat cowl and trying what that guy did. Not sure where the post was but don't feel like hunting for it right now
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Old June 2nd, 2014, 05:52 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subxero View Post
$110 for the smoke
it's a little different, but non issue IMO especially if you have a black bike
Oh yea, that's not so bad.
Looks really good on your bike, too.

Then again, I'm sort of frugal right now. Took a big pay cut moving jobs.
Ignore me. hehe
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Old December 23rd, 2020, 08:02 PM   #57
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Have one of these Hot Bodies under tails on the Wife's 250r, and one of the lower signals stopped working.
A quick look. looks like both wires have come off the back side.
Need to have a better look, but doesn't look like an easy reattach repair.
Anyone repaired a similar broken signal, or know where new ones can be found?
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Old December 23rd, 2020, 09:58 PM   #58
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wiring is easy. Just plug it back in.
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Old December 24th, 2020, 07:42 AM   #59
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I wish it was that easy.
Need to look at it better, but it looks like the wires have pulled out of the light.
I'd think it needs to be resoldered, not just plugged in.
Only thing is there's nothing to solder to.
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Old December 24th, 2020, 09:59 AM   #60
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take some photos and post them.

Wires typically connect to a bulb-socket. Or to a circuit board.
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Old January 7th, 2021, 11:27 AM   #61
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To fix these wires that have come off, looks like I will need to take it off to have a better look.
Behind the wires, in the hole, you can see the yellow circle.
This is where the wires go into;

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Old January 7th, 2021, 03:50 PM   #62
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Well that sucks! Wires going through panel typically need grommet for strain-relief.

Yeah, simple enough to remove light from other side to see more closely how wires go into it. Most likely easy to fix once you get it out.
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Old February 12th, 2021, 11:26 AM   #63
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Well I've disassembled the tail to have a better look at the right side signal wires that have pulled off the LED light.



No connectors were used to be able to disconnect the turn signals and license plate lights.
So to lower or remove the undertail completely, I will need to cut some wires.

The backside of the LED signal does have two connecting points inside the yellow circle, one visible in the picture above.
My soldering skills are not that great.
Joining two wires can sometimes be a chore.
Probably using the wrong soldering iron (Weller gun type) and solder.
Trying to re-solder the wire to the backside of the light is what I need some help with.

Some pointers?
Ideally I need to remove the undertail completely.
Will need to cut and fix wiring afterwards.

Or get a new light with wire attached.
It's a Hot Bodies product, but have not been able to find parts.
I think I will try emailing Hot Bodies.

Right signal foreground, left in further:



Left side signal still attached:



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Old February 12th, 2021, 12:44 PM   #64
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well, you might as well disassemble far enough to remove light. Then you can assess if it's easy enough to attach new wires, or simply replace it.

trick to easy wiring is to separate steps and not try to do it all at once:

1. mechanically tie wires into knot for strength
2. solder for electrical conductivity
3. adhesive heat-shrink wrap for corrosion resistance

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=O-ymw7d_nYo

Link to original page on YouTube.


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Old February 13th, 2021, 10:13 AM   #65
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Thanks for the link to soldering.


Got a reply from Hot Bodies, and they have replacement signals, so have ordered a set.

https://www.hotbodiesracing.com/prod...-signals-pair/
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