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Old September 19th, 2021, 11:41 AM   #41
Turboninjaproject
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That did it I have a startup recording. Seems almost perfect. Now my temp was slow before so I moved it to the top of the head. Now it’s worse gonna wait for it to cool and change it back to where I had it before and move my warm up temp down a bit to compensate. Almost back together. Thanks Dannoxyz might need more help dialing it in after a bit more once I’m together and can get on the road.
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Old September 19th, 2021, 05:08 PM   #42
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Hey Dannoxyz. This is the other half of the cal seems confusing but it worked for me. the way I needed to open was open the a2l file then in the window in procal that shows it their right click that a2l file and add cal use the first .cal file I sent then it should work and open. Alternatively theirs a calibration file it’self but I’ve never been able to get that to work once you have the a2l file loaded you can open other .cal files I assumed you had it. Had to post here can’t send a file in private I don’t think? I Put it back together and now it wouldn’t start I think I’m doing to many things at once had turned the screws in another 3/14 after I ran it thinking it would help cold start. So I might just be able to raise the idle I’ll try again tomorrow seemed close before it just wouldn’t come off warm up and I had no charge pipe for testing the idle it got annoying. so I moved the sensor back and lowered my temps in warm up same fueling just stoped it at 52 on the computer instead of 70 degrees. Gonna wait until tomorrow night and try again with a bit more idle
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Old September 20th, 2021, 10:01 AM   #43
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MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17
yeah, too many changes at once. I would not use the mixture screws, they're just an air-bypass around throttle-plate? Changing those would require changing maps as well. I'd keep those fully-closed and use throttle-plate stop-screw for idle adjustment. Then you don't have to fiddle with maps when changing idle-speed.

I would go back one step and put back original injectors and maps. And get those to work with larger throttle-bodies 1st. Once that's dialed in, you can install larger injectors and theoretically, only need to scale injector-size as VE maps would still be same.
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Old September 20th, 2021, 12:31 PM   #44
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Oh I feel you I know but I had it running and started good once I had idle right gonna mess with it a bit tonight and send you some files. I think I just needed more idle to be honest I closed the screws more and didn’t open the throttle/idle stop more I’ll get it.
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Old September 20th, 2021, 05:04 PM   #45
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So after a few touchy start ups first one was perfect but… after getting a few recordings I’m seeing a map sensor error when I’m trying to start I’m thinking. It was weird when I tried to check spark along time ago won’t spark if plugs are out lol because it won’t see vacuum. I think because I connected both banks it’s sharing and isn’t quite enough vac to trip the spark… I just don’t know how to fix that without separating it to one bank again. Would make sense why starts were intermittent i think?
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Old September 20th, 2021, 11:03 PM   #46
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MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17
Shouldn't be intermittent though. Everything in engine is even and regular when cranking. Best to connect both ports to common LARGE chamber to even out pulses and sap their peaks. Something size of soda-can would work. Then add 3rd port for MAP-sensor.

Add 4th-port for mechanical vacuum-gauge to verify MAP-sensor output. Heck, use vacuum-T to run gauge parallel to MAP-sensor and verify its output. Again, what's MAP-sensor output-voltage when cranking? Don't trust Ecotrons at all, go get Denso MAP-sensor out of Toyota.
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Old September 21st, 2021, 12:23 PM   #47
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I know it’s reading it’s at 101.9ish befor cranking and I could see the bumps when cranking. But their is a threshold of what it needs to fire spark I had the plugs out and just that makes it not spark so I think every now and then when cranking it’s enough but not all the time gonna just vise grip one tonight when I get home if theirs no rain I know what you mean but the ecotrons ecu has a lot of redundancy’s to keep things safe but that’s actually making it hard at the moment seemed closer when I got home yesterday it fired right up I got half warm then stalled and couldn’t restart. Let it cool then it started let if fully warm up shut it off then it wouldent restart. It’s odd only thing I see bad in the recording is the (map sensor error when starting) the code is labeled like that so pretty self explanatory. I have a ninja 250 and 300 map sensor but their not 3 bar.

Last futzed with by Turboninjaproject; September 21st, 2021 at 12:25 PM. Reason: Proofing
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Old September 22nd, 2021, 06:41 PM   #48
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MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17
Something's definitely not right if you're not firing plugs in open-air. That's easiest condition. When you've got petrol and compressed mixture, that's much, much harder to jump spark across. Could be ignition-coils not liking heat.

MAP-sensor, what is it's range? No need for 3-bar if you're not running 30-psi boost.

Again, measure MAP-sensor voltage output when cranking, we have no idea if thing is generating proper signal. That may be why there's error.
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Old September 23rd, 2021, 04:47 AM   #49
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Also, is Engine Displacement, VAL_vEng supposed to be 124.994cc ?
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Old September 23rd, 2021, 07:20 AM   #50
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Yeah cuz theirs 2 cylinders. Also it was because the map sensor isn’t seeing minimum vacuum so it wouldn’t fire spark properly. Moved the map sensor back to one port and it fired up every time just need fueling sorted now it would only run for a few seconds but it would run consistently. Almost got it sorted just need some time away from work without rain.
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Old September 23rd, 2021, 07:22 AM   #51
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Smile

And no I don’t use the full 3 bars yet but I’ve seen over 1 it starts at 0 before sea level so I need more than 1 bar. Getting their have one to try tonight hopefully.
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Old September 23rd, 2021, 10:17 AM   #52
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MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17
Yeah, 1-atm = sea-level or VE=100% @ WOT. Above that is boost. Problem with 3-bar sensor is you lose resolution. With 16x16 map, you only have 5 rows for boost. But 3-bar sensor will only have 0.8v range to cover that 7psi. Whereas with 2-bar sensor, that spreads out across 1.3v. I haven't taken box apart to look, but I doubt they have 32-bit ADC for MAP, so spreading out signal as much as possible gives you more precision.
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Old September 23rd, 2021, 12:35 PM   #53
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Yeah I understand that makes sense. I only have 5v to read from and I’m probably only using less than half for what I’m doing. But never know what the future hold possibly thinking of doing valve springs this winter then I may turn it up a bit. It’s working atm so I’ll just work with what I have.
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Old December 18th, 2022, 07:47 PM   #54
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Smile Still boosting

Turbo bike was running well towards the end of last season but I’m curious what ppl think I should be running for timing? I don’t hear any audible knock running 28 degrees with 13psi. It feels pretty good and seems to like the boost when it comes in past 11psi at 10k. Still revving it out but computer sees 11500rpm when I’m at 13 on the guage. My curiosity comes from my dads bike is running 30degrees with 25+ psi but it’s lower compression at 7.8/1. My compression is somewhat unknown I had high comp forged weiscos machined down as low as possible because I couldn’t find any low comp pistons. So I’m just hoping that their lower than 12/1.
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