January 10th, 2016, 03:15 PM | #1 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Connor
Location: Sunny South florida
Join Date: Jul 2015 Motorcycle(s): '99 Ninja 250 Posts: 37
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Rear wheel and rear brake issues. [my problems continue]
So yesterday I received my 41 tooth rear sprocket, and decided to install it.
So popped the bike up on a rear stand and dropped the rear tire, Unbolted the old sprocket, put the new one on, put everything back on and remounted the wheel and adjusted the chain slack and alignment. Decided to go for a quick test run, love the new sprocket, all my gears are taller and 1st gear is worth something now. But, as I was coming to a stop at the end of my street, I realized my back brake wasn't working at all. And upon starting to roll the bike back up my driveway, I noticed something else was off. I wasn't rolling anywhere near as freely as before. So, rolled it back up the driveway and into the garage and popped it back up on the rear stand. I checked the rear brake to make sure I had actually aligned everything correctly and it looked well enough, the disk was in between the brake pad and the main "clamp" If not resting more on the pad. Didn't feel like going through the process of dropping the rear wheel again that night I left it until today. Fast forward to an hour ago, I have once again dropped the rear wheel and have noticed that I may have put the left spacer on backwards. Here is a picture of what the current placement is now By flipping it around it now puts the tire a tad more to the right which should move the disk perfectly inbetween the pad and the clamp. Also noticed that one of my chain adjusters has a slight deformation Would this be enough to cause spacing issues? Now, my main problem is putting the wheel back on, the rear brake is now completely locked, no space inbetween the pad and clamp to fit the disk.. How do I go about fixing this issue? This little ninjette has given me so many problems haha Full album link if images aren't appearing http://imgur.com/a/GPbZ1
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We may not all be geniuses, but we are all genius to some. Hard work betrays none, dreams betray many. |
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January 10th, 2016, 04:03 PM | #2 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Ryan
Location: Tampa, FL
Join Date: Dec 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Kawasaki Ninja 650R Posts: 67
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I actually just changed my chain and sprockets last night, here's a few pics of how it all should go. Also that spacer being bent like that almost looks like someone tried to force the axle shaft through without the holes being lined up, possibly using a hammer or something. Not sure how big of an issue it is but if it were me I'd change it, ebay is your friend. As far as the brakes, have you tried compressing the brake caliper piston back in?
Left side (chain side) Right side (brake side) |
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January 31st, 2016, 02:11 PM | #3 |
in your machine
Name: Scott
Location: Summer Shade, Ky.
Join Date: Oct 2014 Motorcycle(s): 98 Ninja 250/F12 aka ZX-2R "SERENITY", 91 Ninja 500/A5 aka ZX-5R "Phoenix", 84 Honda GL1200A "SIREN" Posts: A lot.
Blog Entries: 25
MOTM - Jun '17, May '16, Mar '15
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Did you readjust the torque link?
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_is...torque_link%3F Also you can slightly push the caliper piston in, and make sure that everything is ok with the pads, and clips etc... When was the last time the caliper was serviced? Hope this helps, if not let me know.
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violente et ignorantia ZX-2R BLOG Twitter and Instagram = Ghostt_Scott I'm not here to change your mind, just to inform. |
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January 31st, 2016, 04:34 PM | #4 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Ricky
Location: Modesto,CA
Join Date: Aug 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2000 EX250 Posts: 31
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You can use a flat blade screw driver the carefully spread the pads apart if there is room to try it. if it's completely seated against the each other, You can open the bleeder nipple(use a hose on it to prevent the mess) and push the caliper pistons in with your fingers from the backside of the visible pad.
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January 31st, 2016, 06:45 PM | #5 | |||
in your machine
Name: Scott
Location: Summer Shade, Ky.
Join Date: Oct 2014 Motorcycle(s): 98 Ninja 250/F12 aka ZX-2R "SERENITY", 91 Ninja 500/A5 aka ZX-5R "Phoenix", 84 Honda GL1200A "SIREN" Posts: A lot.
Blog Entries: 25
MOTM - Jun '17, May '16, Mar '15
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No reason to open the bleeder, just use a C-clamp on the piston side of the caliper, you don't need to compress it a lot, just enough to fit it back in the disc.
You can either use an old pad, or a block of wood between the C-clamp and caliper pistons. Remember to put the clamp in the center of whatever your using so both pistons move evenly. Don't want to just move one, both must move evenly. I would advise you check the caliper, if any doubts service them using my guide, and might as well lube the slider pins as long as your there anyway. After I looked at your picture again of the caliper, I see the piston side pad looks more worn than the other, and the piston looks pretty dirty, and I see no grease on the slider pin. These are signs the caliper and sliders need to be served IMHO. My write-up on the subject, I recommend that every time you change your pads, you service the calipers, he's my write-up to help you out. It should fix your initial problem, and keep your calipers in top working order. Quote:
I also recommend flush and fill with new brake fluid, also I'd go with 5.1DOT This is the one I use https://m.motul.com/ca/en-us/product...-1-brake-fluid Also inspect the brake lines, replace is needed, http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Stainle..._lines_upgrade Quote:
On my 91 EX500 I have Spiegler, in orange to match that bike. Quote:
When it comes to safety items like brakes, when in doubt, throw them out, it's your safety in your hands, and is cheaper than a visit to the ER. Buy quality pads,I personally recommend EBC brand either the HH, or the Extreme HH. EBC full floating rotor, replace the OEM rubber line with a stainless steel braided brake line, cheaper than replacing them with OEM. On my 500 I have Spiegler line http://www.spieglerusa.com/brakes/cy...line-kits.html On my Ninja 250 i went with Venhill http://www.venhillusa.com/products.html With all that, it will stop on a dime, and leave you nine cents in change. look here http://ebcbrakes.com/products/motorcycle/ And also read this, http://www.ex-500.com/wiki/index.php...otors_and_Pads That should answer any questions you might have.
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violente et ignorantia ZX-2R BLOG Twitter and Instagram = Ghostt_Scott I'm not here to change your mind, just to inform. |
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August 7th, 2021, 03:19 PM | #6 |
Retired motorcycle Mc.
Name: Robert
Location: Weed, California.
Join Date: Jul 2021 Motorcycle(s): 2012 Kawasaki Ninja 250R, 2021 CSC TT250, 1977 Triumph Bonneville 750cc,2001 Honda XR650L. Posts: A lot.
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I just put my rear wheel back on....
so it's fresh in memory ...this is on a 2012 Kawa. 250R ninja. .... things of note grease the hole that the spacer by the sprocket goes into and the one on the other side... your bearings will last longer ! .....the spacer on the sprocket side is solid straight sides just a hole for the axle to go through.... on the brake side it's different the spacer there is stepped and the step goes IN to the wheel... I widened out the brake pads by putting a large screw driver between them and prying at both ends of the caliper. I put the axle in and stopped flush with the outside edge of the brake side spacer... that held the tire close to where it needed to be , next was getting the caliper between the spacer and the swing arm and in it's slot.... that was not so easy, but I did manage to do it by thumping, prodding and prying it finally slid over the slot for the caliper...then with a rubber mallet i bopped the axle while lining it up with the hole in the swing arm then the adjuster and then all the way to the hilt....... once it was on.... I pumped up the rear brake... and then it worked.... .... I had to put the wheel back on to be able to hold it from the force of the 3/4" drive socket I was using to take the sprocket off the engine shaft.... that puppy was on tight !!!! but it popped loose and I'm good to go for putting on a 16 tooth front sprocket..... we'll see how that goes ! .... Bob.......
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