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Old September 26th, 2021, 03:07 PM   #81
Triple Jim
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I'm not sure what I'm seeing. It looks like a crank journal with nothing out of the ordinary. Is it worn undersize or something? Or was there noticeable rod play? Did the bearing in the rod really spin? It certainly doesn't look bad enough that the bearing seized to the journal and spun.
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Old September 26th, 2021, 03:20 PM   #82
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it is where the connecting rod bearing sits. The connecting rod bearing spun and the two halves got stuck together. Can I replace with one that is a little thicker or just use the standard sized ones?

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Old September 26th, 2021, 04:44 PM   #83
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To answer that you'll need to accurately measure the journal and inspect the rod for damage. If the bearing really spun due to seizing to the journal, I can't imagine the journal doesn't have damage that would require regrinding, but inspecting and measuring will answer that question.
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Old September 26th, 2021, 06:33 PM   #84
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looks like the measurement that got of crank pin shows that it has worn past service limits. I have decided to sell bike because it is going to cost to much to fix.

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Old September 26th, 2021, 07:38 PM   #85
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Sorry to hear that Tom, but I understand. Good luck with future motorcycle purchases!
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Old October 17th, 2021, 05:48 PM   #86
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Did not sell this yet, got everything back together but as i try to bolt the case halves together, it get increasingly harder to turn the crankshaft by hand. Should i get some wet/dry emery cloth and try to smooth out the bearing journals on the crankshaft so that I have just a little more clearance for the crankshaft to turn between the three sets of crankshaft bearings? Tried a different crank shaft from a 1988 ex250 but it fits way to loose. A lot of up and down play.

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Old October 17th, 2021, 06:45 PM   #87
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How hard to turn does it get? Enough to read lb-ft on a torque wrench, or just a little resistance?
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Old October 17th, 2021, 06:48 PM   #88
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probably 40 ft-lbs on torque wrench. No pistons or cylinder installed. Just the crankshaft.
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Old October 17th, 2021, 07:59 PM   #89
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probably 40 ft-lbs on torque wrench. No pistons or cylinder installed. Just the crankshaft.
Wow, something is very wrong! When you say you got everything back together, what does that mean? It seems like you did something like get new bearings that are the wrong size.
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Old October 22nd, 2021, 08:28 PM   #90
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I have since ordered a good used crankcase from a 1988 ninja 250 engine and that will match up to the crankshaft that I got to replace the one that was bad. The transmission gears will fit into the new case and I am told that cylinder block will bolt up to case with no problem at all. I will post new pictures once I have everything back together.

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Old October 31st, 2021, 04:14 PM   #91
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Does anybody have the correct bolt sizes and locations for the clutch cover bolts? In other words which holes does the long and short bolts go into?

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Old October 31st, 2021, 04:23 PM   #92
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see ronayers.com or partzilla for partsbook breakdowns by model/year
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Old October 31st, 2021, 04:47 PM   #93
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Partzilla should do it, but if not... you can gently put a long one in, and if it bottoms, try another hole, repeating until it goes all the way in. Then work your way down to the short bolts.

Just never force a bolt in if it might be bottoming in the hole, because you can break a piece of the casting out, with the piece going in the engine. I've heard of aftermarket bolt sets having bolts too long and causing trouble like that.
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Old November 1st, 2021, 12:11 AM   #94
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General rule-of-thumb is fasteners should have 1.5x diameter in threads engaged. So 6mm bolt will have 9mm of showing before you screw in.
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Old November 1st, 2021, 05:25 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
General rule-of-thumb is fasteners should have 1.5x diameter in threads engaged. So 6mm bolt will have 9mm of showing before you screw in.
That's a good rule of thumb for minimum engagement, but threads in aluminum castings are often deeper than that.
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Old November 1st, 2021, 07:41 AM   #96
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ok 2x then. Stick them all in and juggle until they all have equal amounts showing.
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Old November 7th, 2021, 07:21 AM   #97
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Engine is all back together. Newer crankcase, crankshaft, pistons, rings. 150psi cold compression both cylinders. Took out for ride. I still have hesitation between 1/8 to 1/4 throttle. Need to sync the crabs. Biggest issues is not being able to shift back into first gear when coming to a stop usually end up in second instead. And from second to third it feels like I have to move my foot up quite a bit to hit third gear. How can I fix that?
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Old November 7th, 2021, 08:52 AM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomsninja2020 View Post
Engine is all back together. Newer crankcase, crankshaft, pistons, rings. 150psi cold compression both cylinders. Took out for ride. I still have hesitation between 1/8 to 1/4 throttle. Need to sync the crabs. Biggest issues is not being able to shift back into first gear when coming to a stop usually end up in second instead. And from second to third it feels like I have to move my foot up quite a bit to hit third gear. How can I fix that?
You my need adjust your Pilot Screw after sync

One possible is the you mix up the shift fork or there pettey worn
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Old November 7th, 2021, 09:42 AM   #99
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there's feature called "positive neutral finder" that uses centrifugal force on ball-bearings between 4th-gear and transmission shaft to prevent shifting into 2nd unless output-shaft & rear wheel is spinning. You may have assembled transmission in way that prevented these ball-bearings from relaxing back onto output shaft. Basically reversing function into "negative neutral finder".

CycleWorld - kawi positive neutral finder





Link to original page on YouTube.

Somewhere in this crazy Japanese guy's list of videos, he mistakenly believes his transmission is broken because it wouldn't shift out of neutral into 2nd while bike was off. So he tears it apart to find positive neutral finder feature. Really good presentation of mechanism. Can't find exact videos now, it's in his list somewhere
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yK1g6wyZ4Rw

send your carbs to ducatiman for restoration, bike will run like brand-new off showroom floor! https://customcarbservices.com


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Old November 7th, 2021, 10:37 AM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
there's feature called "positive neutral finder" that uses centrifugal force on ball-bearings between 4th-gear and transmission shaft to prevent shifting into 2nd unless output-shaft & rear wheel is spinning. You may have assembled transmission in way that prevented these ball-bearings from relaxing back onto output shaft. Basically reversing function into "negative neutral finder".
Good catch DannoXYZ thanks I didn't know about one as I usually just zip tie the ends so things don't come off
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Old November 7th, 2021, 01:07 PM   #101
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found video of transmission disassembling...

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=gmOzQ2WAvtc
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Old November 8th, 2021, 01:43 PM   #102
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found video of transmission disassembling...

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=gmOzQ2WAvtc
Nice Vid
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Old November 8th, 2021, 07:00 PM   #103
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If you turn on Captions -> English - jamake, you can follow along with the hilarity...

Quote:
"Should I disassemble it [engine]... Sigh...
For that reason, I took it out and brought it to the living room."
and later...

Quote:
"The living room became a mess, so I moved to another place."
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Old November 10th, 2021, 07:26 PM   #104
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Fixed it:

Clutch cable was adjusted so that it would not disengage the clutch plates enough to shift gears very well. So I re-adjusted it and it is working fine. Now to deal with the snow.
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Old November 10th, 2021, 09:49 PM   #105
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awsome work!
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Old November 29th, 2021, 06:19 PM   #106
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Still having an issue between second and third gear, It is almost like I have to flick my foot up twice to get it to shift. But when it is on the center stand it shift really easy through the gears. I also have an issue with not being able to see anything behind me in the mirrors. Does anybody now if the aftermarket mirrors they sell with fit on the 1986 Ninja EX250? Also wondering if I should switch to the "short" brake and clutch levers?

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Old November 29th, 2021, 06:31 PM   #107
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I use bar-end mirrors.
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Old November 29th, 2021, 06:36 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomsninja2020 View Post
Still having an issue between second and third gear, It is almost like I have to flick my foot up twice to get it to shift. But when it is on the center stand it shift really easy through the gears. I also have an issue with not being able to see anything behind me in the mirrors. Does anybody now if the aftermarket mirrors they sell with fit on the 1986 Ninja EX250? Also wondering if I should switch to the "short" brake and clutch levers?

Thanks
Tom
Have you try and bring the shift lever down a notch to see that help ?.
I don't think there any direct bolt on aftermarket mirrors
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Old November 29th, 2021, 10:15 PM   #109
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Maybe clutch-cable needs to be tightened just tad more?

Also make sure both levers coming off shift-rod is oriented 90-degrees to it. One connects to transmission and one to shift-pedal.




Any mirror that fits pre-gen '88-07 bikes will also work on '86-87.
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Old March 10th, 2022, 07:30 AM   #110
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My fuel tap does not work right in on position any harm with leaving it in the prime position with a shut off valve hooked inline?

Oil did smell a little gassy. Also got a dead spot between 5 and 6K rpm.

Last futzed with by tomsninja2020; March 10th, 2022 at 09:38 AM.
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Old March 10th, 2022, 09:14 AM   #111
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My fuel tap does not work right in on position any harm with leaving it in the on position with a shut off valve hooked inline?

Oil did smell a little gassy. Also got a dead spot between 5 and 6K rpm.
No harm as long it sealed it self in petcock like it should being that it is a vacuum pull open design when the motor is running only you may rebuild it to clean out the fuel line filter if your is still original hose, but I have a bad habit of turning it off any way just to be sure it doesn't flood the air box and motor due to where the crankcase vent is at and Kawasaki didn't provide a proper overflow tube for the bottom of the fuel bowl it relies on the top over flow vent.

You want to do a full blown clean of the carb and replace all seal and gasket
If never done a carb talk to ducatiman

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