Please help me, I'm considering something crazy

[Jiggles]

Well after some researched I'm now considering the possibility of (cringe) putting my airbox back in. I was so positively sure I would never be putting the airbox back in that I abused the **** out of it when I got it out and to my surprise its still in perfect condition.

So after researching other bikes configurations it seems that my bike is producing w/ pod filters the same peak hp that superstock race bikes are. Being superstock they are only allowed to change the exhaust and jet the carbs, stock airbox w/ snorkel and they are getting the same top end pull that I am.

Now pods kinda suck in the low end but they are good for a ton of air in the top end. I figured that more air + more gas = more power, and yet, that's not true... Is it possible that the air box allows a better mix with the gas resulting in a more uniform combustion with more power? Could it be that the pod filters don't have a uniform airflow that is messing with the mix and that the length of the air box is allowing the air to travel in the same direction making a better mix? I really don't know, all I know is that this loud ass space saving pod filter is not giving me the gains I expected.

I'm considering reinstalling the airbox and jetting it perfect with the help of my AFR gauge and see how that works out. The gauge gives me an upper hand in jetting but it will still be difficult to know what is the best setup without some extensive dynoing, thank god I'm going back to work next week. On a side note, please feel free to donate to my 'I dyno and rejet so you don't have to' fund.

My plan would be get it jetted superstock and test it out, then start with small modifications to the airbox and see how that works out. First with removing the snorkel and seeing how it affects the curve. If its a net benefit then I may begin drilling holes in my airbox to increase that directional airflow into the carbs.

I have no idea what I'm doing so your help is appreciated

[alex.s]

Originally Posted by Jiggles

Could it be that the pod filters don't have a uniform airflow that is messing with the mix and that the length of the air box is allowing the air to travel in the same direction making a better mix?

yes.

solution: open intakes with longer velocity stacks

also put a 300 motor in there while you are at it


hey do you still have that pregen? SELL ME YOUR PREGEN! :O wait a second, RACE YOUR PREGEN!

[rojoracing53]

can't wait to see a "Putting and ****ing airbox back in" video

[rojoracing53]

You could try adding these to your stock airbox
http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Prod.../314-5022.aspx
http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/...-p/4130462.htm

[Jiggles]

Originally Posted by alex.s

yes.

solution: open intakes with longer velocity stacks

also put a 300 motor in there while you are at it


hey do you still have that pregen? SELL ME YOUR PREGEN! :O wait a second, RACE YOUR PREGEN!

I was thinking about velocity stacks but I don't really know what they are. Basically I'd add the stacks and the pod filter right? And that would move the pod filter further from the carbs with the desired effect of better airflow? Do you know of any that will work with the 250 carbs and pod filter?

I'll get a 300 in as soon as someone totals one near here.

I do have a pregen but my dad rides it. I actually just saw an ad for some race ready pregens that someone was selling for $800 a piece. No title though "/

Originally Posted by rojoracing53

can't wait to see a "Putting and ****ing airbox back in" video

Monologue: "**** **** **** ****, WHAT THE **** HOLY ****"

[Jiggles]

Originally Posted by rojoracing53

You could try adding these to your stock airbox
http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Prod.../314-5022.aspx
http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/...-p/4130462.htm

You mean if I drill holes in it? Well the holes would be in the back side of the airbox so the air filter would still catch the air before going into the carbs

[alex.s]

i heard its not that hard if you drop the engine out first!

[Jiggles]

Originally Posted by alex.s

i heard its not that hard if you drop the engine out first!

Hmm, remove every fairing and cowling and the rear wheel or take the engine out.

Idk which is worse

[alex.s]

you have to take all that crap off to get the engine out anyway... so you might as well just drop the engine ... right? lol

[krolinked]

Are you allowed to drill holes in airbox and still be superstock legal?

[Jiggles]

You have to take off the taillight and all the electronics to get to the engine!?!?

K so searching for velocity stacks for the ninja 250 is proving... difficult

Eh is this gna work??

http://www.ebay.com/itm/87-07-Ninja-...-/200648548180

[Jiggles]

Originally Posted by krolinked

Are you allowed to drill holes in airbox and still be superstock legal?

No, but I'm not racing, just trying to squeeze every last pony out of this 250

[Nemesis]

Easiest way is to remove the rear wheel, drop the battery tray and bang...AIRBOX installed in less than 15 minutes.

This is the same process I use to remove my carbs and reinstall them.

[rojoracing53]

Originally Posted by Jiggles

You mean if I drill holes in it? Well the holes would be in the back side of the airbox so the air filter would still catch the air before going into the carbs

Yes I'd be like removing the snorkel but with more air flow plus these will keep your airbox from collecting small road rocks and crap.

If your going to add velocity stacks at least get something with some bling

[Jiggles]

Originally Posted by Nemesis

Easiest way is to remove the rear wheel, drop the battery tray and bang...AIRBOX installed in less than 15 minutes.

This is the same process I use to remove my carbs and reinstall them.

You still have to remove the rear cowlings though right? Maybe its different with race body work

[Trailerboy531]

Originally Posted by Jiggles

No, but I'm not racing, just trying to squeeze every last pony out of this 250

not racing, yet. Keep your **** potentially legit homie! I was never going to race either. Then I was going to race after a few years. Then I was going to race ASAP. **** changes.

[Jiggles]

Originally Posted by rojoracing53

Yes I'd be like removing the snorkel but with more air flow plus these will keep your airbox from collecting small road rocks and crap.

If your going to add velocity stacks at least get something with some bling

Did a bit of research on velocity stacks and I see it needs to have that bell in order to have uniform airflow. The guy who dyno'd my bike last week for free and tried to sell me on slide carbs was showing me some carbs that came with velocity stacks on them and he said I could add the pod filter to the end of them. I guess I'd have to be putting that bell inside the pod filter then huh?

This is the boot that attaches to the carbs in the stock air box



I wonder if its longer shape (which juts into the airbox) is acting like a velocity stack giving it better airflow. I wonder if I could modify a bell onto these stock boots inside the airbox and further increase the uniformity of the air.

It seems that doing this with pod filters might be difficult.

[Jiggles]

Originally Posted by Trailerboy531

not racing, yet. Keep your **** potentially legit homie! I was never going to race either. Then I was going to race after a few years. Then I was going to race ASAP. **** changes.

I'll get another 250 if I want to race

[Nemesis]

Originally Posted by Jiggles

You still have to remove the rear cowlings though right? Maybe its different with race body work

Um, yeah you'll have to remove the rear cowling. Sorry, I thought that was a given.

[Jiggles]

Yea, been there done that, sucks ass with all the wires and electronics

No way I'm getting that done in 15 minutes

[lgk]

just keep the pods but lengthen the intake tube to correct the harmonics.

chone said the optimum distance is around 10in from the intake valve to beginning of the pods.

was planning on doing reconfiguring it after i do my valve adjustment.

[Jiggles]

^ That's another thing I was thinking about. I supposed if the tubes were long enough to stabilize the air it would have the same effect as velocity stacks.

The only issue then would be finding a way to mount the pod filters

Originally Posted by lgk

just keep the pods but lengthen the intake tube to correct the harmonics.

chone said the optimum distance is around 10in from the intake valve to beginning of the pods.

was planning on doing reconfiguring it after i do my valve adjustment.

Also, do you know where I would be able to find a tube that would fit that? It would have to go over the carb intake and under the pod (exhaust? lol)

[lgk]

that is was what i was struggling with at first,
pretty sure, i will end up making a mount to support the filter using the battery box.

then ill connect the crankcase ventilator into the filter, and re locate the IAT sensor into the intake manifold.

should have 7-10% more power, in the mid and high range.