December 15th, 2008, 04:59 PM | #1 |
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DIY- Oil Change
Oil and oil filter change... about as controversial as politics and religion.
Wanna start a big argument?? Just ask a bunch of bike riders what the best oil there is and a heated "discussion" will ensue. No matter what your views, though, all agree that oil is the lifeblood of a motorcycle engine and even more so in a small, high revving engine as is designed for our bikes. With that said, my oil change DIY will include references to biases that I have acquired throughout the years, so deal with it if you have a problem. The end result is the same, though... that the oil and filter gets changed on a regular basis. There have been many oil change DIYs done, but none by a ninjette member, so I felt it was necessary to do one as guide for this site. The best guide that I have found for oil changes for our bikes is right in your owner's manual. If you've never read your owners manual, spend the time to read it cover to cover... it will explain a lot that you may not know about your bike. With that, I'll be using the oil change procedure in the manual as a guide for this DIY (references from the owner's handbook are in bolded print), with inputs and pictures from me when I feel is required. So..... keep track of the work you do on your bikes... there is a maintenance log in the back of the owner's manual that I use record oil changes/mileage. At 1913 miles, this is the 5th oil change the bike has seen. I've done oil/filter changes at 53, 297,528,1008 and 1913 miles. Clean oil is crucial to a long lasting engine, especially during it's early life. Use the proper viscosity as outlined in your manual. Most people will use 10w-40. I raise my bike up on the rear stand for a couple of reasons, but oil changes can be done with the bike on its side stand. Ninja_Oil_Change_01.jpg Warm up the engine thoroughly and stop it. Previously, I had done oil changes after running the bike down the street and back or after a ride. With a water temperature gauge I added a few months back, knowing when the bike is warmed is a snap. Here are some of the tools you will need to change your oil and filter. Some oil filter part numbers that will work in the previous gen and new gen bikes. They use the same oil filter. Amsoil: SMF 101 (No longer available. Replaced by WIX 24941.) CarQuest: CFI-89941 Emgo: 10-37500 (includes O-rings) 10-20300 (doesn't have O-rings) Fram: CH6012 Hastings: LF571 Honda: 15410-426-010 or 15410-300-024 Kawasaki: 16099-003 K&N: KN-401 NAPA: PS4941 (formerly 4941) Perf-Form: OF-0047 (formerly J-501) Purolator: ML16812 STP: SMO-12 (Once readily available, now appears to have been discontinued.) Triumph: 1210031 Vesrah: SF-4004 WIX: 24941 Yamaha: 36Y-13441-00 Ninja_Oil_Change_02.jpg Place an oil pan beneath the engine Remove the oil drain plug 17MM socket/wrench be careful when you remove the plug that you remove the aluminum crush washer also. the washer will sometimes stick to the engine side. also, be careful as the oil is hot, now, so unscrew the plug while pushing in at the same time. Once the plug is free of the threads, by pushing in while you turn the plug to remove, you prevent the oil from shooting out and you dropping the plug in to the pan. Instead, when the plug is free of the engine case threads, quickly pull the plug out of the way and let the oil pour into the drain pan. Have a rag handy just in case. Ninja_Oil_Change_03.jpg Let the oil drain completely with the motorcycle perpendicular to the ground Ninja_Oil_Change_04.jpg Remove the oil filter mounting bolt and drop out the oil filter Ninja_Oil_Change_05.jpg Replace the oil filter element with a new one This is where it gets a bit tricky the first time you do this. I advise having your owner's manual handy for the exact sequence the parts need to be assembled when doing a filter change. They have a very nice drawing in there. The dropped out oil filter element and associated parts Ninja_Oil_Change_06.jpg Ninja_Oil_Change_07.jpg Replace the O-rings with new ones. you can see the larger O ring around the outside portion of the plate. There is a smaller o ring which requires removal of that spring and washer. the smaller O ring is at the base of the center tube... remove the spring, washer and base plate. new O rings should be included with the filter... mine has them with the Wix filters I use. Ninja_Oil_Change_08.jpg Ninja_Oil_Change_09.jpg to replace the O ring, use something to lift the o ring out of it's groove and replace with a new O ring. Ninja_Oil_Change_10.jpg Ninja_Oil_Change_11.jpg With the O rings changed, we are now ready to reinstall the filter... in the next post. Last futzed with by kkim; December 15th, 2008 at 10:09 PM. |
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December 15th, 2008, 04:59 PM | #2 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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Apply a little engine oil to the O ring on the filter mounting bolt, fit the filter cover on the bolt and install the spring and flat washer.
Ninja_Oil_Change_12.jpg Ninja_Oil_Change_13.jpg Ninja_Oil_Change_14.jpg Ninja_Oil_Change_15.jpg Apply a little engine oil to the grommets on both sides of the filter element and turn and work the filter element into place. Be careful that the element grommets do not slip out of place. Ninja_Oil_Change_16.jpg Install the element fence (cap) on the bolt. Ninja_Oil_Change_17.jpg Install the oil filter, tightening its mounting bolt to the specified torque. (14.5 ft/lbs) I wipe the face of the engine case side clean and apply oil to the O ring. Ninja_Oil_Change_18.jpg install the completed filter assembly and torque. Ninja_Oil_Change_19.jpg After the oil has completely drained out, install the engine oil drain plug with a new gasket. Torque bolt to 14.5 ft/lbs. Fill the engine to the upper level line in the sight glass with a good quality engine oil specified in the owners manual. Do this with the bike sitting absolutely vertical to prevent overfilling. Bike holds about 1.7-1.8 qts., but underfill it by a little bit, then run the bike, then top off. It's best to work up to the fill mark instead of overfilling and having to take oil out. Ask me how I know!! You do not want to run with the bike overfilled with oil. You run the risk of engine damage with an overfilled engine. Please be very careful get the oil level between the lines in the sight glass. I usually fill mine to the upper fill mark on the sight glass. The only way to get an accurate oil level reading is with the bike in an absolute vertical position... not on its sidestand. Ninja_Oil_Change_20.jpg Ninja_Oil_Change_21.jpg Start the engine run engine for a few minutes then turn off. let sit for a few minutes. Check the oil level and for oil leakage. oil level after starting the engine and turning it off. see how much it's dropped? I then filled the oil back up to the upper line, started the engine for a few minutes, stopped it and let it rest again and this was the oil level after doing so. Ninja_Oil_Change_22.jpg Ninja_Oil_Change_23.jpg That's it... it may look a bit more complicated than it really is, but take your time and you'll be able to change your own oil often and cheaply. |
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December 15th, 2008, 05:08 PM | #3 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Kim
Location: mundo de ensueño
Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): '08 250 Posts: A lot.
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Thanks for posting Kelly!
Now - any suggestions to keep the oil from collecting in the underside of the cowlings when you are taking the filter off? That really annoyed me! |
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December 15th, 2008, 07:18 PM | #4 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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December 15th, 2008, 09:07 PM | #5 | |
The Sexy Filipino
Name: Jordan
Location: Bakersfield, Ca
Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R 2008 (da black one) Posts: 312
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Quote:
edit: sorry I misread your post. But I never had the problem when taking off the filter housing. Did you let the oil completely drain first from the drain bolt plug? |
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December 15th, 2008, 09:10 PM | #6 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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December 15th, 2008, 09:20 PM | #7 |
The Sexy Filipino
Name: Jordan
Location: Bakersfield, Ca
Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R 2008 (da black one) Posts: 312
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Well in that Chain Lube discussion, I switched over to Bel Ray Super Clean. Dries on leaving a white layer. So far its pretty good. As soon as the that can is done I'll try Maxima Chain wax because you are like my YODA (I can see how green suits you). So I trust your judgment in most areas. Almost all except for the green bikes being faster. Blacks the fastest.
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December 15th, 2008, 09:27 PM | #8 |
That's me!
Name: TJ
Location: Ames, IA
Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250r (Tis blue), 2008 CBR600RR Posts: 454
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Nice attention to detail! I'm thinking on my next oil change I'm going to pick up a gallon of Rotella. Everyone seems to like it and it's way cheaper then quarts of Mobil 1.
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December 15th, 2008, 09:31 PM | #9 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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Yeah, it's been working great for me. This is the second change with the synthetic and I really like the stuff. I know Walmart carries it... hope it's still cheap.
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December 15th, 2008, 09:56 PM | #10 |
Guest
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Sweet, I can use the leftover filter I have the the Ninja in my new CBR.
Honda: 15410-426-010 or 15410-300-024 Kawasaki: 16099-003 |
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December 18th, 2008, 09:24 AM | #11 | |
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Name: Nick
Location: Occoquan, VA
Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): '09 Ninja 250R Posts: 518
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Quote:
Something else to add... I had a helluva time getting the oil filter mounting bolt loose, but that could be because I only had a ratchet with ~6in. handle. |
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December 18th, 2008, 10:04 AM | #12 | |
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Quote:
I use a combination box wrench on the bolt to hold the nut securely and then give it a quick rap with the palm of my hand to "break" the nut loose. The extra length of the combo wrench makes breaking the nut loose easier. After it's cracked, I then use a ratchet and socket to remove... or in the case of the oil filter plate, I just unscrew it by hand. |
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December 18th, 2008, 08:12 PM | #13 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Kim
Location: mundo de ensueño
Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): '08 250 Posts: A lot.
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We put the handle to the kid's trike over it as a breaker bar - worked pretty well to get it off!
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December 23rd, 2008, 01:58 AM | #14 | |
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Name: Nick
Location: Occoquan, VA
Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): '09 Ninja 250R Posts: 518
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Quote:
Or you could have tied it to the back of the trike and had him get a head start. |
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December 23rd, 2008, 02:06 AM | #15 | |
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Quote:
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December 23rd, 2008, 02:25 AM | #16 | |
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Name: Nick
Location: Occoquan, VA
Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): '09 Ninja 250R Posts: 518
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Quote:
When I go back down to school, im bringing my tools with me. A set of 1/2" drive sockets with a 14" ratchet. I still dont own one of my own breaker bars though. My torque wrench might help too. |
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March 15th, 2009, 11:02 PM | #17 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Michael
Location: Southern NM
Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): '91 Honda CBR600 F2 Posts: A lot.
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Quick question: Is it a problem to have an oil different from 10W-40? I was told by a mechanic at a local Yamaha dealership I get tune-ups and such from that I should use 20W-50. From what I can tell, it's supposed to be better for high-RPM engines. Is that right?
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March 16th, 2009, 12:31 AM | #18 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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Does it get over 104*F there? if so, you might want to consider it. Consult your owner's manual for the oil that will work in your local weather temp conditions.
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March 16th, 2009, 08:32 PM | #19 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Michael
Location: Little Rock, AR
Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R Posts: 65
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Great Kkim thanks to you and your DIY i just had the most expensive oil change in the history of oil changes..It ended up costing somewhere around $400...i had to buy everything from stands to a drain pan. The good news is the oil change went just fine and i wont have to pay for any of that stuff ever again! Thanks for the write up!
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2009 Kawasaki Ninja 250R Special Edition |
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March 16th, 2009, 08:44 PM | #20 |
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lol... I consider tools an investment in future projects, so those costs will be amortized over the rest of your life (or however long the tool lasts ). I have tools that I purchased over 40 years ago that I've used countless times for the many tasks I've done during that period. We all need to start somewhere.
Be honest, now that you've done your own oil change, do you think you'll ever pay someone else to do such a simple chore? Plus, doesn't it feel good knowing it was done right? Congrats on gettin' her done! |
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March 16th, 2009, 09:02 PM | #21 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Michael
Location: Little Rock, AR
Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R Posts: 65
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it definetly does feel good...i would already be doing them on my car but i dont feel like getting underneath it! its also nice getting to know the bike a little better. it makes me a little more confident to get a little deeper into the motor. by the way i hope the first couple lines got your heart going a little bit i figured you'd think something got screwed up bad!
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2009 Kawasaki Ninja 250R Special Edition |
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March 16th, 2009, 09:05 PM | #22 |
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lol... I was expecting you to tell us that you took it to the dealer for the oil change.
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March 16th, 2009, 09:45 PM | #23 |
Don't Be Evil!
Name: Miles
Location: Excelsior, MN
Join Date: Jan 2009 Motorcycle(s): 08 250R Posts: 92
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Great DIY. How often do you clean the oil screen? Would you like me to take a few pics of the process for you to add to your diy?
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March 16th, 2009, 10:07 PM | #24 |
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Thanks... Please do. I have never cleaned my screen.
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March 16th, 2009, 10:35 PM | #25 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Michael
Location: Southern NM
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Thanks for that. I think the max temp around here is somewhere around 110 degrees(f), and it rarely gets below freezing. I actually don't have an owner's manual (DANG IT!). I guess that's the price you pay for being the third owner and buying from a private seller! You wouldn't happen to have a massive zerox version of that too would you?
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March 16th, 2009, 11:02 PM | #26 |
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Nope, no owner's manual, but they are available through the Kawasaki web site.
I have not checked, but I'm pretty sure the oil info is in the service manual if you have one. |
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March 16th, 2009, 11:14 PM | #27 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Michael
Location: Southern NM
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I just checked the service manual, and it says 10W-40. It doesn't say anything about variances for temps. Should I exchange for 10W-40?
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March 16th, 2009, 11:47 PM | #28 |
Ramen Rider
Name: Gary
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
Join Date: Jan 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2015 BMW R1200R, 08 Honda VFR800A (sold), 09 Ninja 250R (sold) Posts: A lot.
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in the owner's manual, it says that 10w-40 is for 14 deg to 104 deg.
20w-50 is for 32 deg to 104(+) deg. if it does get to below freezing at times... and over 104 deg, then maybe you should use 10w-50? |
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March 16th, 2009, 11:47 PM | #29 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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no. The dealer was giving you some good advice based on your local temps. In the owners manual it lists a host of different weight s of oils and the temp range they are good for. the 20-50 he is recommending are for temps above 104*.
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March 17th, 2009, 12:09 AM | #30 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Michael
Location: Southern NM
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Ok cool. Thanks for the info. I need to get me one of those owner's manuals!
Oil change tomorrow! |
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April 6th, 2009, 10:37 AM | #31 | |
ninjette.org sage
Name: patricK
Location: San Jose, CA--BAY AREA!
Join Date: Mar 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 blue 250R [sold]. '09 lime ZX-6R [stolen :( ]. '06 blue 636. Posts: 918
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Quote:
Hiflofiltro: HF401 http://www.hiflofiltro.com/17.0.html?&L=0&sel_uid=639 |
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April 6th, 2009, 02:00 PM | #32 | |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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Quote:
As most cartridge-type filters are more or less the same, any of the above filters will be of good quality. There is, however, one brand of filter which several club members DON'T recommend. That is HiFloFiltro. As reported, it takes longer for the oil pressure light to go out after starting than with other filters. One member reported that at 3000 miles it started shifting funny, and the oil light stayed on longer than normal. His second Hi-Flo did the same thing at a little over 3000 miles. Other filters can go many more miles without these symptoms showing up. |
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April 6th, 2009, 03:01 PM | #33 | |
ninjette.org sage
Name: patricK
Location: San Jose, CA--BAY AREA!
Join Date: Mar 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 blue 250R [sold]. '09 lime ZX-6R [stolen :( ]. '06 blue 636. Posts: 918
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Quote:
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April 6th, 2009, 03:06 PM | #34 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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I have read of too many problems with Fram filters that I gave up using them many years ago. Interesting enough, I happen to work for the company that owns Fram... what does that tell you?
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April 6th, 2009, 03:26 PM | #35 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: patricK
Location: San Jose, CA--BAY AREA!
Join Date: Mar 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 blue 250R [sold]. '09 lime ZX-6R [stolen :( ]. '06 blue 636. Posts: 918
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April 8th, 2009, 01:56 PM | #36 |
Sarcasm: Yea that'll work
Name: Andy
Location: Essex Jct, VT
Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): '08 Ninja 250R Posts: 330
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So I went out to buy oil and a filter today for my bike, and I was gonna change it this afternoon, but NO ONE has the right filter...WTF!?!? Not to mention that no one had plain 'ole 10W-40 Synth Oil either. Not even Wal-mart, I was enraged.
I never heard about that FRAM issue before. We've solely used their filters for more than a decade in all our cars and never have we once had an issue. |
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April 8th, 2009, 02:00 PM | #37 |
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Name: Rick
Location: Alexandria, Louisiana
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MOTY - 2017, MOTM - Jan '19, Oct '16, May '14
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Very nice DIY post. Thanks.
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April 8th, 2009, 02:15 PM | #38 |
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April 15th, 2009, 09:58 PM | #39 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Nick
Location: Sacramento, California.
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250r Posts: 379
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So do you check the oil level while the motor is running with the bike vertical? The oil fills the entire sight glass when the engine is off...running it is in the higher middle portion between the lines, is that ok?
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April 15th, 2009, 09:59 PM | #40 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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engine should be off. Bike vertical.
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