July 22nd, 2020, 12:57 AM | #1 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Brandon
Location: Albuquerque New Mexico
Join Date: Jun 2020 Motorcycle(s): 1999 Kawasaki Ninja EX250 Posts: 39
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Two Brothers Exhaust ID
I found a really good deal on a Two Brothers Exhaust set.
It's the two mufflers nothing else. The guy said he isn't positive but he thinks they came from a Kawasaki. They look like the right ones for my Ninjette but before I go check them out is there a way to identify if they do in fact fit on my bike such as a stamped number or something like that? |
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July 22nd, 2020, 05:33 AM | #2 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Brandon
Location: Albuquerque New Mexico
Join Date: Jun 2020 Motorcycle(s): 1999 Kawasaki Ninja EX250 Posts: 39
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From what little I can find I don't think those are the correct ones. But it looks like I could weld them to the pipes from the can to header pipe. What do you think?
He wants 50 bucks so it might be worth a shot. Let me know |
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July 22nd, 2020, 08:06 AM | #3 |
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What’s your goal?
Any muffler can be fitted, will need to weld some hanger brackets on at right location. Best to make some cones to adapt the ID differences. Some outfits just weld two different size pipes together with a sharp transition. Not as good as cones. These guys have lots of good stuff: https://www.coneeng.com/ |
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July 22nd, 2020, 08:09 AM | #4 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Brandon
Location: Albuquerque New Mexico
Join Date: Jun 2020 Motorcycle(s): 1999 Kawasaki Ninja EX250 Posts: 39
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My goal is mufflers that aren't dented and road rashed for cheap 😁
I'm going to check them out and I'm taking my muffler to get an idea for how hard it will be to adapt them. I like your cone idea. I want it to look clean. |
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July 22nd, 2020, 08:15 AM | #5 |
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July 22nd, 2020, 08:46 AM | #6 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Brandon
Location: Albuquerque New Mexico
Join Date: Jun 2020 Motorcycle(s): 1999 Kawasaki Ninja EX250 Posts: 39
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I kinda just realized as I reread your post that if I change the exhaust I will probably have to rejet right? I don't want to have to play around with the carbs now that I have them all dialed in. How about ways to get my dented and scratched cans looking better?
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July 22nd, 2020, 08:58 AM | #7 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Brandon
Location: Albuquerque New Mexico
Join Date: Jun 2020 Motorcycle(s): 1999 Kawasaki Ninja EX250 Posts: 39
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Just noticed your reply. I like that idea cause I really don't want to do anything to the carbs. What would you recommend using to cover the cans? I've been dying to use my new welder that I've had for 3 months!! I've only tried it once to check that it worked.
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July 22nd, 2020, 03:55 PM | #8 |
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Replacing mufflers won't require re-jetting carbs. It's A LOT of work to adapt non-Ninja250 mufflers to fit.
Finding aluminium sleeves of exactly same OD of mufflers may not be easy. So you can get sheet aluminium (1.0-1.5mm should work) and wrap it around muffler and tack weld it on back side. - Measure muffler circumference and cut sheet slightly larger. - Bend sheet gradually around muffler. - Use hose-clamps to squeeze it all way in. - Measure how much overlap there is, unclamp and cut that amount off edge. - re-wrap around muffler and tack-weld it onto muffler. |
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July 22nd, 2020, 11:52 PM | #9 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Brandon
Location: Albuquerque New Mexico
Join Date: Jun 2020 Motorcycle(s): 1999 Kawasaki Ninja EX250 Posts: 39
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I've only worked with steel when I've welded so how much different is aluminium welding from steel? I have a stick welder and a Mig/Tig.. I've used the stick tons of times but only on steel. The Mig is my new welder and it's the first wire feed welder I've used. I don't have a tank but I do have a regulator. I'm probably not going to get a tank yet so flux core for now if I use the Mig. I've never really looked but there are aluminum welding rods for my stick right?
Or am I just better off getting a tank and aluminum wire for the Mig? I really like your idea!! I didn't know what I was going to do with my cans yet. I knew Bondo or any other filler was out of the question so I couldn't figure out exactly what I was going to do. The only thing I was going to try as a last ditch effort was to fill the dents and scratches as best as possible with welds then grind them almost flush and finish them with my mini sander. But I slashed my left palm with the sander one day while sanding the cans. I've never seen blood splash the way mine did!! To make things worse the closest Dr's office is around 130 miles from where I was so I super glued medical tape to the gash to stop the blood flow. BAD idea!! A little super glue contaminated the cut any WOW did it hurt!!! When I finally decided to go get it checked it was already healed to the point that there was nothing that could be done. The Dr said it looked good and was healing nicely. I thought it looked horrible and my hand was probably going to fall off. Shows how much I know about the human body!! Now I know why the sander came with an extra handle like a grinder has!! SAFETY FIRST!!! |
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July 23rd, 2020, 01:24 AM | #10 |
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Ouch!!! Glad you healed up cleanly and quickly. Tough to bandage spot like that, might have been easier to put gauze over wound and just wrap tape around entire hand. You can use Mastisol to clean and treat skin so tape & bandages stick better. Might also want to try some of new ”liquid skin” bandages that’s just brushed on.
For clean sharp cuts, like from knife, you can use medical-grade CA glues known as “skin adhesives”. These are more flexible than regular CA glue to move and stretch with skin so you don’t feel it much. I’ve used this stuff called VetBond, made for pets, but it works just fine on my human skin! MIG won’t work with aluminium, too difficult to control. With DC, you also want reverse polarity (DCEP), which won’t work on MIG. You really need AC TIG to break up surface oxidation layer. Also for thin aluminium, AC keeps penetration shallow so you don’t blow right through it. I’ve actually got really good results brazing aluminium with rods like this and oxy-acetylene torche. Although for thin sheets, you can use just propane or MAPP gas. For both welding and brazing aluminium, you’ll want to scrub surfaces really well with stainless steel brush to remove surface oxidation layer. Makes it much easier to get good penetration. |
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July 23rd, 2020, 03:24 AM | #11 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Brandon
Location: Albuquerque New Mexico
Join Date: Jun 2020 Motorcycle(s): 1999 Kawasaki Ninja EX250 Posts: 39
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I'll have to look at my new welder but I'm pretty sure it welds AC-TIG Cause you can change the polarity when you're using flux core. Then you can switch to the tig gun. I think. Like I said I've only used a stick welder so far so learning about Mig and Tig is a priority on my list. Is Tig welding harder than other methods? I think I'm going to pull the welder out and practice with it today. So what do I need to Tig aluminum? Rods and a tank? More than likely I'll check out a few videos on Tig welding. But I'll probably hit the Miller or Lincoln sites first to see what they have along the lines of tutorials on aluminum Tig welding. I've learned tons since joining thanks to the wonderful members that are extremely helpful
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July 23rd, 2020, 09:18 AM | #12 |
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What model welder is that? Simple enough to download manual and see what specs are. Switching polarity is sure sign of DC since AC goes back and forth, so it doesn't matter which way you have cables plugged in.
Yeah, to TIG aluminium, you'll want bottle of 100% argon, and some 1100, or 4043 rods depending upon actual material. The 4043 works with higher alloys of 5000-6000 series as well. TIG is definitely more difficult than MIG since you have to control two hands doing two different things. I find it's better than MIG or stick since I have finer control. Very similar to brass brazing together racing bicycle frames for cycling-team which paid my way through uni. |
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