First time service 00 Ninja 250

[Sarge1992]

So I bought my ninja a few weeks ago with just shy of 9k miles, and got it dirt cheap. But it has some issues I've known about, and have resolved most of them. The bike is pretty quiet, and doesn't tick like my friends 250, so I'm assuming it needs the valves adjusted for they are too tight. Knowing the guy I bought it from, he didn't seem too big on routine maintenance. Also when it warms up to operating temp, the idle sometimes slowly fluctuates from about 1100 to 1500.

This weekend I plan to adjust the valves (ordered the special tool for it), sync the carbs (in the process of making a carb sync tool), and adjust the air/fuel mixture of the carbs. Also I rebuilt the carbs and set the float height where it needs to be, bike starts up just fine with no choke.

My question is, in what order do I do those things? I'm guessing its valves first, then drive it to get it warm, then carb sync, then carb adjust. Also what exactly am I looking for when adjusting the carbs air/fuel mixture? I've read before to tighten (lean) the adjuster until the engine starts stumbling, then back off (rich) about 1/2 turn, does that seem about right?

[Motofool]

Welcome, Ryan !!!

The adjustment of the valves goes first, then either carburetor's work.
You don't really need any special tool for that.

Be very careful about not breaking the little lips of the cast rocker arms:
http://n4mwd.blogspot.com/2013/06/ov...ts-during.html

While you are adjusting the valves, you should replace the spark plugs (due to the easy access) and service and lubricate the cam chain tensioner (due to the ratchet mechanism):

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Cam_cha...sioner_removal

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_..._the_valves%3F

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Category:Engine

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Category:Intake

[Sarge1992]

Thanks, that is actually the site I originally looked at for doing these procedures. I bought the valve adjustment tool 57001-1220, which is funny when people say its not cheap at $38, but if you knew how much I pay for tools at work (auto mechanic) you might cry while staring at your bank account.

Anyways I have torque wrenches and all that fun stuff to torque everything to its proper values (ninja250.org calls for 12 lb/ft for the rocker arm lock nut) and I've stripped a rocker bolt thread before in the head of my Grand Am GT, so I know all about torquing internal engine parts correctly. Just because you can tighten something down more doesn't mean you should.

Also my spark plugs have about 150 miles on them, still suggest replacement? Rule of thumb when I buy a new vehicle, it gets an oil change, tune up, and fuel system cleaning right off the bat, so the plugs are new and carb was taken off and gone through. I used the NGK CR8HSA plugs, and pulled some crap Autolites out of it.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by Sarge1992

........Also my spark plugs have about 150 miles on them, still suggest replacement?......

No, good NGK plugs will stay good longer than the miles that will take until your next valve service.
The less times that you put stress on those head's aluminum threads, the better.

The hardest part is to reach between cams and rocker arms with a gauge and still be able to feel the proper drag with your contorted fingers.

Most destroyed engines have had a failing tensioner as the main cause.
That thing may work well for the life of the bike or can fail with no warning: it is all about those little balls getting jammed into that cone.

Also, keep that cam chain's well plugged; little things love jumping into there.

[Sarge1992]

What do you mean by "keep the cam chains well plugged"?

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by Sarge1992

What do you mean by "keep the cam chains well plugged"?

The cavity that contains the cam chain and runs between clutch and valve's train:

[cbinker]

hello engine!

[Sarge1992]

But what do you mean keep it plugged? Like shove a rag in it so I don't drop anything down into the motor?

[SLOWn60]

Originally Posted by Sarge1992

But what do you mean keep it plugged? Like shove a rag in it so I don't drop anything down into the motor?

Exactly!
You'll have big problems fishing anything out of something drops down there including abrasive grunge and even bigger problems if you don't notice a hard part like a nut or something and then reassemble and fire it up!

A carefully stuffed rag could save you much heartache and money!

Of course that would be a clean rag without a bunch of loose threads or dust!

[Ghostt]

Add to list to service the spark plug caps, NGK iridium plugs, and don't touch the carburetor synchronization screw.

The vacuum method is flawed, and not what a true synchronization of the carburetors, the right way is bench synchronization method.

When your ready to do the brakes, remember to service the calipers as well.

If you need information on either one, let me know.