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Old November 14th, 2015, 07:29 AM   #41
GregS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jBazz View Post
Does anyone out there have installation tips?
Thanks!
It's all pretty straightforward except for the actual arm/spring. When you go to put it on, let the arm and spring hang down while you get the bolt started to hold it in place, then push it up against the spring resistance and into position against the shifter star and finish tightening the bolt.

It's worth the hassle as I rarely miss a shift anymore, and it has stopped the transmission from slipping back a gear altogether.
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Old November 16th, 2015, 07:27 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregS View Post
It's all pretty straightforward except for the actual arm/spring. When you go to put it on, let the arm and spring hang down while you get the bolt started to hold it in place, then push it up against the spring resistance and into position against the shifter star and finish tightening the bolt.

It's worth the hassle as I rarely miss a shift anymore, and it has stopped the transmission from slipping back a gear altogether.
Thanks for the tips Greg. I just completed the install and test ride. This part takes some patience to replace, but I think it will be worth it. I will follow up with a few pictures and tips.
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Old November 22nd, 2015, 06:52 AM   #43
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The installation of the factory pro detent arm and spring is mostly straight forward. You will need:

Maintenance manual
Basic sockets & Hex bits
Torque Wrench
Breaker bar
Clutch basket removal tool
Clutch cover gasket
Liquid Gasket
Moly grease
Thread Locking compound
Oil

I bought a Tusk brand clutch tool for like $18 from rocky mountain and ground the ends a bit thiner to better fit the Ninja's clutch basket.

Drain your oil. Remove your clutch cover, taking care not to remove the clutch release rod or you will need to replace the needle bearing assembly that is in the cover.

Remove your old gasket and clean mating surfaces.

Remove your clutch, keeping all plates and spacers in order.

Once the clutch is removed, you can tackle the detent arm and spring. The spring pressure on the detent arm is what makes this a little tricky.

My recommendation is to spread apart the "shift mechanism arms" over the end of the shift drum before tackling the detent arm. This will give you more room to swap out the part. Do not unscrew the star on the end of the drum.

As @GregS pointed out, once you have the new bearing in place with thread locker, do not tighten it down fully. Leave enough room to push the bearing up and in place on top of the shift star before torquing it down.

Move the "shift mechanism arms" back in place and test the shifting. If everything feels good, reinstall your clutch, gasket, cover etc, as per the maintenance manual, and add your oil.

Any additional feedback or tips are welcome.
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Old November 23rd, 2015, 10:50 AM   #44
GregS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jBazz View Post
My recommendation is to spread apart the "shift mechanism arms" over the end of the shift drum before tackling the detent arm. This will give you more room to swap out the part. Do not unscrew the star on the end of the drum.
Indeed - I forgot the part about spreading the shift arms and moving them out of the way, that really makes it easier to do. I made the mistake of removing the shifter star and it was a major PITA to get back on and positioned properly.

Last futzed with by GregS; November 26th, 2015 at 07:50 AM.
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Old April 27th, 2016, 07:36 PM   #45
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I wanted folks to know I took the bike back on the track this past weekend and had zero shifting or false neutral issues. The kit is working well so far.
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Old April 28th, 2016, 06:06 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jBazz View Post
I wanted folks to know I took the bike back on the track this past weekend and had zero shifting or false neutral issues. The kit is working well so far.
That's great news. My shifting problems have virtually disappeared, I still get an occasional backshift but always because I didn't give the shifter a firm enough click.
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Old April 25th, 2017, 06:10 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jBazz View Post
The installation of the factory pro detent arm and spring is mostly straight forward. You will need:

Maintenance manual
Basic sockets & Hex bits
Torque Wrench
Breaker bar
Clutch basket removal tool
Clutch cover gasket
Liquid Gasket
Moly grease
Thread Locking compound
Oil

I bought a Tusk brand clutch tool for like $18 from rocky mountain and ground the ends a bit thiner to better fit the Ninja's clutch basket.

Drain your oil. Remove your clutch cover, taking care not to remove the clutch release rod or you will need to replace the needle bearing assembly that is in the cover.

Remove your old gasket and clean mating surfaces.

Remove your clutch, keeping all plates and spacers in order.

Once the clutch is removed, you can tackle the detent arm and spring. The spring pressure on the detent arm is what makes this a little tricky.

My recommendation is to spread apart the "shift mechanism arms" over the end of the shift drum before tackling the detent arm. This will give you more room to swap out the part. Do not unscrew the star on the end of the drum.

As @GregS pointed out, once you have the new bearing in place with thread locker, do not tighten it down fully. Leave enough room to push the bearing up and in place on top of the shift star before torquing it down.

Move the "shift mechanism arms" back in place and test the shifting. If everything feels good, reinstall your clutch, gasket, cover etc, as per the maintenance manual, and add your oil.

Any additional feedback or tips are welcome.
so it looks like I made a bit of a mistake when I did this on my 300 last winter.



After 2 days at the track testing this weekend, My bike was shaking violently getting on the gas coming out of the corners. We replaced fuel, coils, injectors, battery, took the pcv right out, and swapped the ecu.

Got home, pulled the clutch out and saw that there is some major wear on the retaining washer that holds the "shift star" in place.

When I did the install,I ended up unbolting the "shift star". I thought I had it back together properly but apparently not...
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Old April 27th, 2017, 05:47 AM   #48
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this is a pic...i'm stumped
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Old April 27th, 2017, 04:17 PM   #49
GregS
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Must be your clutch vibrating against the shift star washer. If I remember correctly there is a cone shaped washer that goes under the clutch basket, did you put that on the right way? It's the only thing I can think of that would cause a lot of vibration.
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Old July 25th, 2017, 08:32 AM   #50
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Just did mine last week

I got mine installed a week ago. Gregg even put a couple of my photos up on the site...LOL... It was, indeed, pretty straight forward. Having he tips about moving the arms and putting the whole thing in place before tightening up the bolt was awesome. Made the whole thing easier. For some reason, these photos are turned 90 degrees to the left. My apologies for that.
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Old July 25th, 2017, 03:36 PM   #51
GregS
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Good to hear that it went well for you. Anybody that is mechanically inclined can do this mod. The number one thing I would recommend is to NOT unbolt the shift star, as the darn thing gave me hell going back on right.
Let us know if the shifts improve, as you should see a pretty big difference.
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Old July 27th, 2017, 10:50 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregS View Post
Good to hear that it went well for you. Anybody that is mechanically inclined can do this mod. The number one thing I would recommend is to NOT unbolt the shift star, as the darn thing gave me hell going back on right.
Let us know if the shifts improve, as you should see a pretty big difference.
I'll be in Pittsburgh this weekend which will be my first opportunity to ride it vigorously. I'll let you know.
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Old January 24th, 2018, 07:44 AM   #53
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Wow, I'm sorry all, I never did post a reply to the message a couple above this one. Greg, the spring and arm work flawlessly. After this trackday, I raced at Summit Point and VIR without one single issue. I coach also and have hundreds of laps around a couple of different tracks since the install, and not one single issue.

Thanks for a great product.

Juan
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Old January 27th, 2018, 12:54 PM   #54
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Curious

In 6+ decades of bike fiddling I've known about under cutting but don't know how common it has been over the years. Any clue as to what bikes have had it or not? I've always felt Suzuki & Yamaha trannies seemed better but didn't know why they were. The occasional missed shift doesn't bother too much but unintentional downshifting is a worry for us Golden Age riders. I wonder how much $ is saved w straight milling the dogs vs a small angle. Is this a problem for Ninjettes as they may be ridden w more gusto than others? Others have asked about power shifting but I think they'd avoid such if shown the resulting dog wear & tear. Anyone heard of XS100s w/o 2nd gear?
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Old January 28th, 2018, 01:12 PM   #55
GregS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrTrouble View Post
Wow, I'm sorry all, I never did post a reply to the message a couple above this one. Greg, the spring and arm work flawlessly. After this trackday, I raced at Summit Point and VIR without one single issue. I coach also and have hundreds of laps around a couple of different tracks since the install, and not one single issue.

Thanks for a great product.

Juan
Happy to hear that things are going well, it really does help your riding knowing that you will not get an unexpected downshift
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Old January 29th, 2018, 05:46 PM   #56
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Part update

I see there is a different part# listed for the detent now. Is this an improved piece or just a number change?
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Old October 9th, 2018, 04:54 AM   #57
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BUMP


I am experiencing the same issue as the OP and others on my track-only 2015 300. It doesn't happen *all* the time but when it does it's fairly disconcerting.

I'm thinking about this product for next season... thanks for any additional insights.
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Old November 29th, 2018, 11:12 AM   #58
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I bought the updated parts, the spring looks substantially stronger than the OEM item and the bearing (that rides on the shift drum) looks a little bigger. The following is mostly for myself in case I ever have to do this again, lol.

Here's couple more installation tips. (1) stuff a rag or paper towel in the oil drainback cavity (under the clutch plates) in case you drop anything. There's a small washer behind the arm that's easy to drop. (2) as others have said, spread the shift linkage arms apart and there should be enough slop to move the top arm over onto the star piece on the end of the shift drum (I just moved both of them out of the way). (3) I put the parts together and got the allen head screw started a few turns with the straight piece of the spring sticking almost straight up and down. I then used a screwdriver to move it into final position (resting against the case) before tightening further. (4) Keep a close eye on two things: make sure the bearing on the end of the arm stays in proper alignment with the shift star i.e. parallel to it, not pushing against the end of the star and that the washer-bushing that the allen screw passes through stays in proper position. I had to hold the washer in place using a screwdriver as the new spring wants to push the arm down out of alignment. (5) When you think you're done pry against the arm with a screwdriver to make sure you feel spring tension and can see the arm pushing down onto the shift drum.

It's winter and I won't know until next season but this setup cannot be worse. My bike was downshifting by itself in a couple of places on the track which (needless to say...) was pretty disconcerting. At first I blamed myself for sloppy shifting but then realized it probably wasn't me.

Thanks for previous tips!
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Old November 30th, 2018, 07:47 AM   #59
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The OEM updated parts? I looked at listings and see a number change for the lever arm but not the spring.
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Old November 30th, 2018, 08:30 AM   #60
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http://www.factorypro.com/prod_pages/prodk35_ex300.html
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Old November 30th, 2018, 09:16 AM   #61
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So not updated OEM
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Old February 13th, 2019, 07:12 PM   #62
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Hi we just tried to install this kit on my EX300 and was unable to get the bike with the FactoryPro detent arm and spring installed to shift past 2nd gear while the bike was stationary (and back wheel was being manually spun). I was able to shift through 2nd when I tested the stock detent arm and the FactoryPro spring, but not with the FactoryPro intentionally larger detent arm. After speaking on the phone with the FactoryPro support, he stated that the Kawasaki's don't shift above 1st if the bike's rear wheel is not spinning (he said the bike needs to be moving for it to spin fast enough to engage) due to the steel balls that sit on the transmission output shaft that are by design some kind of safety thing so that you can't shift into 2nd while bike stationary.

Did anyone of you who successfully installed the kit notice this "issue" when testing the shifting before putting everything back together? Worried that we were overthinking it, and should have just put it back together without it being able to shift into 2nd...and it would be perfect. It is just a lot of work to have to take it apart, put it back together, and pray that it is supposed to be like that.
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Old February 13th, 2019, 07:41 PM   #63
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its called the Kawasaki "positive neutral finder" system, search that phrase on Google, a ton of info. Info may be in owners manuals, too, dunno.
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