Parked bike fell in mud and now idles low/won't start.

[BoKing]

Got some snow/rain last night. After it cleared the ground was muddy. My bike was leaning a lot lower that it usually does when on its kickstand because of the mud (we park it outside in a dirt lot that nobody goes into, we lack a garage to store it in). During the night the ground was loose enough to make the bike drop on its side from the kickstand. I ran out and propped it back up and put it on some more solid ground.

I went to start the bike up (about a day later), and it turns over, but idles really low, to the point of dying if I'm not revving it. In addition, I can only rev it in neutral. As soon as I shift into first gear it dies.

What did I knock loose? Did I get mud in something important?

Man I'm hoping this is an easy fix, I want to avoid a costly trip to the shop for them to do something I could have done on my end here.

My mechanical experience/ability is about a 2 out of 10. I appreciate any help/explanations you guys could provide.

Thanks,

Bo

[Flying]

The kickstand has a neutral sensor that checks whether or it its up, chances are it may be muddied up.
Look around the back of the kickstand near the front sprocket and look for a pair of wires going into the sensor plug.

The way you should do it:
SUPPORT YOUR BIKE, take off the kickstand, take the sensor off the kickstand, open it up with a small driver and clean the internals and fill with dielectric grease, reassemble.

The quick and dirty way:
Pull or cut the wires leading to the sensor, strip the ends, hardwire them together and use electrical tape for your work. You bike will now think you are in neutral and will try to start regardless of kickstand or clutch position.

Be open for suggestions from other members, I took the quick fix because I use my bike to commute and had a problem similar to yours.

I don't know or remember enough of the specifics of the bike's intake/exhaust system to make a comment on the low idle. Maybe a vacuum line got plugged up? Check your air filter for any mud that the bike may have tried to suck in.

[cadd]

Idle adjustment screw/nut/star is on the left side as well. Maybe when the bike fell over something knocked on the adjustment screw and turned it 1/8 of an inch....which is enough to affect the idle speed. Turn the screw counterclockwise a tad and see if your idle goes back up to normal idle speed (1300rpm when bike is warmed up).

I agree with the kickstand sensor. It is sensing your kickstand is still down when it is not. That's why the engine shuts itself off when you put it in gear.

Try this test: try starting the bike with kickstand up. But start it in 1st gear while holding the clutch. If it doesn't start you know it's the kickstand kill switch.

[fast1075]

Before you run it any more make sure you don't has gas in the engine oil!!!

[DaBlue1]

Rain, snow and temp changes can affect the way your bike runs. it is not uncommon to have running problems after the bike has been exposed to rain.

Do theses things first;

1. After a long tip over, check your airbox and air filter for oil and gas . An air filter that is overly saturated with oil will affect how the bike runs. If the airbox is dirty, clean it.
2. Drain the fuel tank and add fresh fuel. This a is a good time to also treat the fuel if the bike will continue to be stored outside. Star Tron and Stabil are good choices.
3. Check the crankcase to ensure you have the proper oil level. if the oil looks milky or reeks of gas, change it and the oil filter.

[Hero Danny]

Looks like everyone answered your question, idle screw and the kickstand sensor... although I didn't know the pregen had a kickstand sensor...

Lesson learned here and i'm sure this goes without saying, but i'ma say it anyway... ALWAYS put a piece of wood or metal or something under the kickstand because dirt, sand, asphalt, grass, etc. All run the chance of giving way at any moment in time. Even after setting the bike down for just 1 minute.

Also, I really hope you have a cover for that bike... they're $20 at walmart, so there's absolutely no excuse.

[BoKing]

Gentlemen, thanks. It definitely was the idle screw. I just youtubed a tutorial on how to find/use it and that was the issue.

So the bike is up and running now, I just went to the store, but I noticed something a bit more concerning: It takes more muscle to get it from one gear to another, and slips into neutral a bit.

I had this issue about a year ago, and it got progressively worse to the point where it broke my bike, and I had to get it taken into the shop. They said my clutch cable (I think it was called) was frayed and I had kept digging into it or something to the point where it frayed and wouldn't shift, and I had to buy a new one and pay for labor etc etc.

Think this is something similar?

[cadd]

Shouldn't be the cable. Have you tried clutch less up shifts? If it's still problematic with clutch less up shifts, the cable may not be the issue.

To clutch less up shifts. Get into 2nd gear. As you're about to shift into 3rd, preload a tiny bit of upward weight on the shifter. Abruptly close off the throttle completely and reopen it again. This should take less than 1/2 second. While you're doing that, your left toe should keep the same amount of light upward pressure on the shift. It should click right into 3rd gear....much more smoother than doing it with the clutch.

You should also check the cable. Take a flashlight and shine it where the cable meets the clutch lever.

At the other end (by the oil fill hole), slide the rubber boot up a bit and look at the cable for fraying.

If no fraying, try to squeeze the clutch lever a few times and see if you feel a kink somewhere. It should be smooth when you pull the clutch lever.

The cable itself is really easy to replace. I'm not sure if the tank/fairings have to come off to route it. Even so, with a little effort (and time) you can learn how to take off the fairings and tank to reroute the new cable.

[BoKing]

The fairings are completely off. I removed them a few years back after I dropped the bike a few times lol. Thanks, I'll attempt to do what you suggested.

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by BoKing

Gentlemen, thanks. It definitely was the idle screw. I just youtubed a tutorial on how to find/use it and that was the issue.

So the bike is up and running now, I just went to the store, but I noticed something a bit more concerning: It takes more muscle to get it from one gear to another, and slips into neutral a bit.

I had this issue about a year ago, and it got progressively worse to the point where it broke my bike, and I had to get it taken into the shop. They said my clutch cable (I think it was called) was frayed and I had kept digging into it or something to the point where it frayed and wouldn't shift, and I had to buy a new one and pay for labor etc etc.

Think this is something similar?

I would look closely at the shift lever and linkage considering it fell over on that side.

Look for a bent lever or rod, and you might want to take the lever off of the pivot to clean and lube it and make sure the joints on the ends are are free and lubed. Also clean the shaft of any mud or grease where it goes into the case. It may just be dirty or slightly bent.

Here's some info and photos of the shifter - http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...the_shifter%3F