January 31st, 2021, 03:46 AM | #1 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Jonathan
Location: Texas city
Join Date: Jan 2021 Motorcycle(s): '98 Ninja 250 Posts: 2
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Need help
98 ninjette *turn key on and nothing lights up but Got power to the solenoid, cause I can jump it and then the cluster lights up and engine cranks over. While running lights are dim and battery has to be charged at least once a day
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January 31st, 2021, 04:08 AM | #2 |
Guy Who Enjoys Riding
Name: Jim
Location: North Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2016 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Oct '18, Aug '17, Aug '16
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Jonathan, those are classic symptoms of a failed battery. Be careful when jump starting that you're not doing it from a car with the engine running, for example. That can cause your Ninja's regulator to fail.
Welcome to the board! Last futzed with by Triple Jim; January 31st, 2021 at 05:55 AM. |
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January 31st, 2021, 06:44 AM | #3 |
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/moved to pre-gen tech forum
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February 1st, 2021, 04:59 AM | #4 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Jonathan
Location: Texas city
Join Date: Jan 2021 Motorcycle(s): '98 Ninja 250 Posts: 2
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Well I just bought the battery maybe 2 weeks ago. But I did jump it off of my wife's ford fusion the other day but it was already doing all this before I did that. I tested everything with a multimeter today and had nothing past the 2 wires on the solenoid so I put the OEM one back on. Now dash works bit I hit the start button and it just makes a clicking noise once. I can still start with a screwdriver. Idk what it is but I'm tired of buying parts when the old ones are obviously still good
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February 1st, 2021, 06:10 AM | #5 |
Guy Who Enjoys Riding
Name: Jim
Location: North Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2016 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Oct '18, Aug '17, Aug '16
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From what you're describing, your new battery is discharged. Maybe you blew the regulator if the engine on the Fusion was running when you did the jump start. If you get the engine running and have a meter on the battery terminals, you can see if the voltage rises when you rev the engine, indicating the charging system is working.
The problem with jump starting from a car with a running engine is that it will likely supply 14+ volts and a lot of current capability. If the bike regulator thinks it need to do its job and shunt some of that 14+ volts to ground, it is then working against a high-current supply instead of the few amps the bike alternator can supply. Since it's not made for that, it fails immediately. |
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February 1st, 2021, 08:28 AM | #6 | |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: AKA JacRyann
Location: Mesa, AZ
Join Date: Dec 2011 Motorcycle(s): CB125T CBR250R-MC19 CBR250RR-MC22 NSR350R-MC21 VF500F CBR600RR SFV650 VFR750F R1M ST1300PA Valkyrie-F6C Posts: A lot.
MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17
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Quote:
Here's how to test battery and charging-system-condition: 1. measure battery voltage with everything off. What's voltage? 2. measure battery voltage when cranking. What's voltage? 3. measure battery voltage while bike is running at idle. And at 5000rpms. What's voltages? Did you charge new battery before installing? New battery comes discharged and needs to be charged for 24-hr at trickle-rate before using. Give us a little history on bike, maybe pattern will match previous experiences and fix will be obvious. |
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