November 10th, 2016, 05:32 PM | #1 |
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2005 Ninja 250 Timing Help!!
First time timing this bike. I have the 33 rivets like the manual says but in the videos ive seen the 2 lines in the middle are more in line with each other? Do I have it right or does it need to be adjusted again?
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November 10th, 2016, 05:33 PM | #2 |
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November 10th, 2016, 05:55 PM | #3 |
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Mine looked like that when I put it together too, I moved mine a tooth so that the marks are in line with the top of the head. I think whoever came up with the "33" pin count must have figured the pin lining up with the first mark was "0" and started counting "1" as the first pin after the mark. Just guessing, but you want the marks on the sprockets in line with the top of the head.
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November 10th, 2016, 05:58 PM | #4 |
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my intake looks even should i just turn my exhaust about 1 tooth to make it even?
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November 10th, 2016, 06:01 PM | #5 |
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yep, if you have doubts, turn it over by hand (gently) to make sure the valves don't hit the pistons after it's bolted down
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November 10th, 2016, 06:02 PM | #6 |
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whats the easiest way to tell if they do?
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November 10th, 2016, 06:04 PM | #7 |
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you can feel them hit, if it's quiet you may even hear them touch, if it turns hard stop and find out why.
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Last futzed with by Z1R rider; November 11th, 2016 at 05:31 AM. |
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November 10th, 2016, 06:05 PM | #8 |
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what happens is the valves are still open a bit and the piston hits them if the cams are out of time
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November 10th, 2016, 06:06 PM | #9 |
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but if your marks are even (lined up) with the top of the head you'll be ok
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November 10th, 2016, 06:19 PM | #10 |
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IMG_20161110_181207474.jpg Adjusted and tensioner put in, does that look better?
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November 10th, 2016, 06:26 PM | #11 |
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yes it does...but you want to put the cam caps on to make sure. If you notice the ex. cam is not down all the way because the valve springs are pushing up on the lobes, be sure to run the caps down evenly, so they don't bind on the locating pins, or put uneven pressure on the cams....wouldn't want to break one.
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November 10th, 2016, 06:28 PM | #12 |
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okay i will loosen my tension and put my caps on then crank it and see what i get thanks for your help!
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November 10th, 2016, 06:30 PM | #13 |
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no problem
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November 10th, 2016, 07:20 PM | #14 |
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When manually turning over the engine should I be able to do it all in one smooth motion or will it fight me a little. I was really struggling to turn it over at one section then realized my rocker arm was out of place but still feeling a little fight back
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November 10th, 2016, 07:26 PM | #15 |
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it'll turn a little harder as the cam lobes are opening the valves....you do have the spark plugs out right?
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November 11th, 2016, 05:18 AM | #16 |
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Quick Tip, always remove the spark plugs when doing cam work, then any stiffness during a turn over is mechanical & not compression. Marks on the Cams should always be used to set the cam NOT the rivet count. The rivet count is there to check for chain wear/stretch & to ensure you don't have a DIP in the chain between the cams which would be very bad !
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November 11th, 2016, 11:18 AM | #17 |
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Hopefully last question and then I can put it all back together. On cylinder 1 the front cap seems to have a gap between the cap itself and the base it screws into. Is this normal until I screw it in or am I doing something wrong here
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November 11th, 2016, 11:54 AM | #18 |
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It seems like the back of the exhaust cam doesn't want to seat in properly almost as if it's too big for it
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November 11th, 2016, 12:23 PM | #19 | |
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Quote:
Could be the valves pushing on the lobes a bit off center, after you get the intake cam bolted down try slowly rotating the motor (by hand) so the lobes are not contacting the rocker arms. It should then wiggle and giggle into place.
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November 11th, 2016, 12:50 PM | #20 | |
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Quote:
I would remove the tensioner and spark plugs first. Remove cam chain from sprockets. Then, rotate each camshaft to any angle that keeps those cams from pressing on the rockers. If you can't find that angle, then remove tension off the offending rockers. I assume that you are returning those caps to their original positions and orientations. That is very important for the life of the journals. Next, lubricate the journals and clean all the threads and torque those bolts to the value and in the order specified by Kawasaki. Manually, test free rotation of shafts.
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November 11th, 2016, 03:19 PM | #21 | |
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Quote:
I guess I didn't do a very good job explaining that, thanks Hernan
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November 12th, 2016, 04:30 AM | #22 |
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Is this the engine with the snapped camshaft? Then I would be really suspicious when reassembling, like you seem to be. Especially the left hand bearings.
As discussed in the other thread (it would have been better to continue that one), the possible reasons for the defect are fatigue, manufacturing defect or brute force. Without any previous experience of this kind of damage I am leaning towards the last. So something wrong with the left hand bearing. Fatigue or manufacturing defect just don't seem that likely to me, sure possible but not the first assumption. Do you know more about the history of the engine? Was it ridden 6000 miles in 2005 then sat in a garage 11 years before you bought it? Or were the valves adjusted at 6599 miles and then the camshaft snapped at 6600 miles? Is there any sign of wear or damage on the left hand bearing surfaces? |
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November 12th, 2016, 12:38 PM | #23 | |
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Quote:
Please, @acook3323, see this post: https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...1&postcount=12
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Motofool .................................Never ride faster than your guardian angel can fly "Mankind is composed of two sorts of men — those who love and create, and those who hate and destroy. Love is the bond between men, the way to teach and the center of the world." - José Martí |
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