September 21st, 2011, 09:01 PM | #1 |
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Steering stem & swing arm maintenance
Ok. I looked around, but I can't find a real thread on checking/maintaining the steering stem.
Who's done this, and do you have any suggestions, hints, etc? I know I'm about 5,500mi overdue for lubing the steering stem/bearings. The play's fine, but just feel like I should check on them. I currently lack the manual-specified tool for the special nut under the triples. Is there a workaround or alternate (common) tool that works just as well that Kawasaki doesn't wanna tell you about? Any particular kind of grease I should use (waterproof, high-density, bearing specific...), or will the regular lithium do? Also looking for pointers on the swingarm pivot lubrication. Thanks in advance!
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September 21st, 2011, 09:49 PM | #2 |
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I been in the head a few times but not in the tail.
Just like a bicycle mang. Wheel bearing grease or high quality lithium grease or whatever is clever. I use a mallet and a messed up screwdriver to handle the nuts. Good luck finding the tool! Getting the play exactly right is the hard part. Requires a few ride tests. Can never get it right in the stands. I have adrians' a bit tight right now but he rides it like that fine I guess. I need to back it off some to be honest. Keep telling him to bring the bike by.. Hell on mine I have dents in the headtube cups. I have the new cups and bearings sitting right here waiting for a new frame but I leave the old ones in, no trouble to report even at freeway speed with dents in the cups. lol. And they say the ninja can tankslap.. you gotta really be asking for it. I have the woodcraft clipons also and I barely get any oscillation at deceleration like KKim had.. just a hair even with these bearings and cups. the ninjette is easy and plenty of room to work with. I worked on suzi all day today for nada in change lol ended up putting the SET valve and Secondary butterflies back on for now. =P A lot tighter of a bike all in just about the same amount of space! Need more specialized tools also.
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September 21st, 2011, 10:42 PM | #3 |
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Hehe, fair enough. Thanks.
Strongly considering ordering the specialized tool, as I hate leaving nicks/dents on stuff if I can avoid it with the right tool. May try a plumber's castle nut tool first though, seems like it's about the right idea. I have the oscillation that Kkim had an issue with, but like my steering play where it is; not too tight, not too loose. If I go no-hands around 40mph (throttle set or decel), it'll wiggle on me a good bit, but doesn't seem to get worse than a certain point. I think the standing theory on that is our front tires; we're both using Pirelli Sport Demons (stock sizes) and that tire has a wave design down the center. Considering swappin to something else this fall, but not sure what just yet. Really liked Spooph's Conti Go!s but they don't come in 140/70-17 only the 80-wall which I'm not so sure about. Chief alternative is the Bridgestone BT-090
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September 22nd, 2011, 03:27 AM | #4 |
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If you use just the right tool you can minimize the marks to the stem nut.
I think I had trouble locating the actual tool itself. I searched for quite some time. If you do find one, let me know! I think I used the square end of an old crumby 3/8 ratchet extension with the mallet. Insert sideways into the nut and smack!
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September 22nd, 2011, 05:29 AM | #5 |
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At what interval is this recommended?
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September 22nd, 2011, 06:12 AM | #6 |
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2 years/15,000 mi for lubing the steering stem bearings, 15,000& 24,000mi for the swingarm pivot
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September 22nd, 2011, 06:21 AM | #7 |
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You can make your own socket for the steering stem nuts. I made one that fits Hondas. I used a 36mm (I think) socket and grinded down the face of it so that it's flat (the chamfer on the open end is gone). After that I marked out 4 tabs that matched up with the steering stem nuts and cut away the socket around these. I had to have the socket cut in half and a piece of tubing welded in between so that it would clear the excess stem when torquing the nuts down.
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September 22nd, 2011, 06:24 AM | #8 |
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Hmmm... I would have thought the swingarm pivot would have been a sealed bearing assembly. I see now in the SM that it is a needle bearing setup. More special tools needed too...
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September 22nd, 2011, 06:26 AM | #9 | |
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Quote:
Can we get a picture of that???
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September 22nd, 2011, 06:46 AM | #10 | |
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Quote:
Definitely gonna need a picture of the DIY stem wrench, this sounds cool.
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September 22nd, 2011, 06:49 AM | #11 |
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I don't have any pictures right now of mine specifically, but this link shows how it's done. The welds on mine are much nicer though, had a friend TIG them and then I painted it black to help keep any corrosion from forming.
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September 22nd, 2011, 08:33 AM | #12 |
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This don't seem like such a bad idea.
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September 22nd, 2011, 08:55 AM | #13 |
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September 22nd, 2011, 09:18 AM | #14 |
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Right but even if you could properly torque the stem nut, It's still an item that must go by feel. It may require further adjustment from torque.
Like I said I can never get it right the first time. It's always too loose or too tight. Too loose is usually harder to feel. Too tight becomes awkward to steer. You'll know when it's too tight right away. The trick of letting the steering fall to either side in the stands to check the tension does not work for me. You could still have it too loose without knowing it. Also the torque settings may change with wear over time? Probably not but who knows. To be honest I'd like it most with the proper tool, then nothing should have to be removed to complete the adjustment. Would make things quick and easy. You guys keep reminding me I need to fix Adrians'. It's too tight. I figured it would losen up just a hair and it never did. Most of the time they do but I guess it takes a long while. This is probably the hardest adjustment to get right on the motorcycle. By the time I get to his bike again I may end up owing him my cups and bearings that I have on the side sitting here new. I don't understand how he rides it like that but he just does. I guess it doesn't bug him but it would me.
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September 22nd, 2011, 10:31 AM | #15 | |
wat
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Quote:
Channel locks. as far as the swing arm... i don't think it's rocket science... just coat it and clean up any excess after so you dont get splatter around (clean bike == fast bike)
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September 22nd, 2011, 10:39 AM | #16 |
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So how long in total does it need to be? Could a "long drive" socket fit the bill?
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September 22nd, 2011, 12:07 PM | #17 | |
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Quote:
Those things are worth their weight in gold.
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September 22nd, 2011, 12:16 PM | #18 |
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September 22nd, 2011, 12:24 PM | #19 |
wat
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they're easier to use than the kawi spanner that's made for it. though if you don't have a good pair with the nose that comes in to a slight point at the end you might scratch up the nut a little bit. seriously though, channel locks should be in every garage.
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September 29th, 2011, 09:21 PM | #20 |
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Good news my friend.
I found the ninjette toolkit has the tool to adjust both your stem nut and mine on the gsxr as well. Its the tool used for the stock suspension adjustments. Fits perfectly over here. That's if you didn't find something else already. Doing the gsxr stem nut break in maintenance now. Just be happy the ninjette Only has the one stem nut. The gsxr has two and still works It's way loose. Lol Sry for the iPhone text..
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September 29th, 2011, 11:36 PM | #21 |
wat
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on some bikes there's supposed to be a clip that goes over the two nuts to lock them together then the piece locks into or is held by friction from the top triple to lock the nuts in place. you can also safety wire it...
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September 29th, 2011, 11:42 PM | #22 |
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Here was a DIY of my GSXR adjustment with the 250R shock tool. lol
the GSXR guys must be scratching their heads where they are going to get this thing. http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showt...069#post380069 I say we make a mold and start production immediately.
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October 1st, 2011, 11:37 AM | #23 | |
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Quote:
Will definitely skip the OE tool if the suspension wrench fits. The DIY one was really neat, but between beers for the welder, and buying a socket that big, may as well buy the right tool.
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October 1st, 2011, 12:41 PM | #24 |
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Be careful..
I took a reaming from the GSXr forum guys. they say you should get a spring scale and measure the force apply-able to the bars before they move after making the adjustment. Also after tightening everything back down too. I'm pretty sure I have it down though, done this a few times myself. Not so sure how much I trust a spring scale over a cheap digital fishing scale or something from walmart either. Luckily the Ninjette is known to be a bit less prone to tank slappers also so you'll be ok dabbling in your own stem nut tension. I'm finally fixing Adrian's tomorrow. I told him to stop riding so he went out and got leathers and now he's riding it faster. I have to go fix it before he gets himself killed from a tight stem nut. Can't say I didn't warn him five times though. I guess I'm heading over there tomorrow. Can't bear to know he's riding it around like that still. =P It would be driving me crazy if it were my bike.
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October 2nd, 2011, 10:53 PM | #25 |
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Going to sound like a complete noob, but help me out here.... Can anyone snap a pic of what the -Steering stem & swing arm pivot- is. I have an idea i just need conformation.
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October 4th, 2011, 02:26 PM | #26 |
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TheDuck made his own Castle/Crown nut/socket for the GSXR triple tree in his SV650:
Link to original page on YouTube. |
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October 4th, 2011, 02:35 PM | #27 |
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Nice vid Jet, makes it look so easy lol
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October 4th, 2011, 02:48 PM | #28 |
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October 5th, 2011, 05:15 AM | #29 |
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October 5th, 2011, 05:26 AM | #30 |
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May 2nd, 2012, 12:43 PM | #31 |
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what's the proper procedure for tightening up the steering stem nut? the SM says to lightly tighten the steering stem nut, then put the triple back on, followed by the 22mm stem bolt. after doing all this, then using the special spanner tool torque the steering stem nut to 11 ft-lbs. back off 1/4 to 1/2 turn, set the play in the steering. and then tighten up the 22mm stem bolt to spec 35 ft-lbs.
with the special tool you guys are using it seems you'd have to torque the stem nut to spec first, back off a bit, adjust the steering play, then install the triple and torque the bolt to spec. is that right? |
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August 19th, 2019, 10:06 PM | #32 |
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Raising this thread from the dead, I'm about to service my swingarm and lube the pivots. Never done it before, but between YouTube videos from MC motorcycle about swingarm lubrication, cyclepedia.com service manual, the Kawasaki service manual, and this forum, I think I can tackle it. Wish me luck
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August 19th, 2019, 10:54 PM | #33 |
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Piece of cake, you can totally do it! Unlike steerer, there's no adjustment needed. Grease bearings, replace O-ring seals, slap it back together and that's it!
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August 20th, 2019, 03:52 PM | #34 | |
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Quote:
Ive looked at all balls website but only saw stuff for the fork |
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August 21st, 2019, 02:15 PM | #35 |
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No alternate suppliers I know of. It’s an unusual size. On last 4 swingarms I greased, only found one broken O-ring. So you may be Ok, carefully pry out O-ring with precision screwdriver before removing bushing. Depending upon how many you find broken, may need help to order some.
https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/...shock-absorber |
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September 19th, 2019, 11:30 PM | #36 |
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Finally got the suspension serviced. Swingarm pivot was dry as a bone, and the needle bearings were shot. They took significant force get them rolling, so I ended up buying new bearings.
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