August 18th, 2019, 07:51 AM | #1 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Ray
Location: Miami
Join Date: Aug 2019 Motorcycle(s): Kawasaki Ninja 250R 2006 Posts: 20
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HELP! Identify this Bolt and Nut?? Ninja 2006 Ex250
Hey guys,
sorry to bother everyone with such a silly question. But, does anyone know what bolt this is. . . I noticed that this bolt that is missing a Nut or Something to secure it it on the other end?? It looks like the bolt goes from the Left side to the right and through the top of the Crankase & attaches to the Frame near the top of the Suspension attachment-- But, I cant locate a part for it on the Kawasaki parts Diagrams? If anyone can shoot me a photo of what it looks like on the side that is missing the nut,. . or tell me what bolt this is, . .that would be really great!!! Thanks in advance. . . Ray- |
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August 18th, 2019, 09:04 AM | #2 |
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Hi Ray, welcome to Ninjette!
That long bolt holds engine to frame. Better get nut on there ASAP. |
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August 18th, 2019, 09:36 AM | #3 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Ray
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Join Date: Aug 2019 Motorcycle(s): Kawasaki Ninja 250R 2006 Posts: 20
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Damn!
Hey there, Thanks for the Welcome!!
Wow! Thats not a good place to have a missing bolt!! lol Thanks for the response! I've been searching the Parts Diagrams for hours and cant find that bolt or nut! Anyway, if you have anymore info! Let me know. . . Thanks again, Ray- |
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August 18th, 2019, 11:31 AM | #4 |
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I think you'll find it in the Engine Mount section.
https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/...1/engine-mount Can also get M10x1.25 nut at hardware-store. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...3928/204281764 Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; August 18th, 2019 at 05:33 PM. |
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August 20th, 2019, 05:42 AM | #5 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Ray
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Join Date: Aug 2019 Motorcycle(s): Kawasaki Ninja 250R 2006 Posts: 20
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Excellent!! Thanks so much for all your help!
Ray- |
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August 20th, 2019, 06:10 AM | #6 |
Rev Limiter
Name: Jay
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That's fairly common with the Ninjas.
I would use some blue threadlocker on the nut when you install it. The factory nut with a shoulder would be the best. If you use something else you should use a flat washer under it. |
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August 20th, 2019, 08:21 AM | #7 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Ray
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Join Date: Aug 2019 Motorcycle(s): Kawasaki Ninja 250R 2006 Posts: 20
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Hey Jay,
Thanks for the tip! I'm curious though, Does the threads of the bolt stick out a lot when the Nut is put on and tightened down? It looks like there is a lot of thread on that side of the bolt. . . |
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August 20th, 2019, 08:39 AM | #8 | |
Rev Limiter
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Quote:
Pretty sure the original nut is shouldered or there may be a large thick washer used. There is also a torque spec for it. I'd get an original nut/washer, some blue threadlocker, and a torque wrench. It would be a good idea to torque other critical bolts that may have come loose as well. |
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August 20th, 2019, 08:55 AM | #9 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Ray
Location: Miami
Join Date: Aug 2019 Motorcycle(s): Kawasaki Ninja 250R 2006 Posts: 20
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Yeah, that's a great idea!
So, searching through the parts diagrams- it looks like this is what the nut looks like. Its not showing a washer, but the nut is flanged, They are calling it a NUT,LOCK,FLANGED,10MM. Part No. 92210-1080 Good idea to threadlock and torque it! I just bought the bike a few months ago, and was riding around with this bolt hanging out!!! Not gonna do that again. . |
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August 20th, 2019, 08:59 AM | #10 | |
Rev Limiter
Name: Jay
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Quote:
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August 20th, 2019, 09:07 AM | #11 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Ray
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Yep, they sure do vibrate loose. I was hearing a jangling noise under my seat for a few weeks, . .thought it was maybe it was the cam chain tensioner? But, when I looked almost the entire bolt was hanging out! if not for the bolt hitting against the cover of the Front Sprocket cover, . .that bolt would have been long gone! lol
Anyway, will definitely put some blue threadlocker on this sucker! Thanks for the input! |
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August 20th, 2019, 04:10 PM | #12 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
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"Lock" nuts don't necessarily hold like one would think. I had a couple engine mount bolts vibrate loose, too. I painted a mark on them now so I can look at it and make sure they're behaving.
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August 26th, 2019, 06:29 AM | #13 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Ray
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Join Date: Aug 2019 Motorcycle(s): Kawasaki Ninja 250R 2006 Posts: 20
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The saga continues. . . .
I had NO Idea!! That these engine bolts were so susceptible to loosening from vibration!???
The saga continues, . .I decided to get motivated and clean and lube my chain- so I removed the front sprocket to clean. . .And noticed that the lower Engine bolt had almost completely wiggled out- without the nut- Again if not for the frame holding that long bolt it would have been gone! Anyway, I ordered the proper replacement bolt, some lock tight, and Hi-vis Torque paste- the same stuff we use on some of the helicopter thread and bolts, . . so that I can easily check them! Does anyone know the Torque value in Lbs for these Engine Bolts? |
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August 26th, 2019, 06:48 AM | #14 | |
Rev Limiter
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Quote:
"Engine mount bolts are one thing that will loosen up with time and vibration. This can happen in as little as 7500 miles, so it would be a good idea to check the torque a couple times a year, or at least as part of the winterization process. You should also check the other fasteners periodically, too. There are only 3 mount bolts, and they all have a torque value of 24 ft-lbs and use a 14mm socket. There are two at the rear and one at the front of the engine. Use red (high-strength) thread locking compound on these bolts to prevent them from loosening again so quickly, although since you'll probably be pulling the front one when you adjust the valves, just use blue Loctite on that one. The rear two bolts both have nuts on them. The nuts are located on the right side of the bike." They suggest Red threadlocker, but Blue (medium) is usually adequate. I like the gel/paste compound instead of the liquid. |
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August 26th, 2019, 06:58 AM | #15 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Ray
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Yep!! Those are them!
Wow, . .this link is great! Thanks so much!!! |
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August 26th, 2019, 07:09 AM | #16 |
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What's really odd is that's very low torque for 10mm fastener. Resulting in little tension on bolt, and little friction to hold it together. I really like these lockwashers.
https://www.nord-lock.com/nord-lock/products/washers/ |
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August 26th, 2019, 07:14 AM | #17 |
ninjette.org member
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I was just going to ask , . .Do you think it might be worth putting a split washer or one of those (wedge-lock washers) on the bolt??
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August 26th, 2019, 07:44 AM | #18 |
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Name: Ray
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August 26th, 2019, 08:04 AM | #19 | |
Rev Limiter
Name: Jay
Location: WI
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Quote:
With ample medium threadlocker you should be fine, but a locking washer of some type isn't a bad idea. |
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August 26th, 2019, 09:54 AM | #20 |
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Once we torqued mine to spec, I haven't had further problems with them loosening again. A locking washer might not be a bad idea, though.
Isn't red loc-tite the permanent one? I'd use blue. |
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August 26th, 2019, 10:59 AM | #21 | |
Rev Limiter
Name: Jay
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Quote:
Blue threadlocker should be adequate. |
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August 26th, 2019, 05:13 PM | #22 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
I haven't had any issues on my street bike with blue Loctite and serrated flange nut. But on my race bike, I've had to retorque those engine bolts every month! So I went with one drop of red Loctite, Nord-lock washer and distorted-thread flange locking nut. Haven't had any issues in past 2-years. Can actually loosen nut with breaker-bar since one drop of red isn't very permanent. Reason torque is so low is because of mounting-ears on engine. Too much will squeeze them together and break them off engine. Now, if they had spacer-tube in between ears like between hub-bearings, then we'd be able to crank them up to proper 47-lb*ft torque for that 10mm bolt. |
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