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Old April 15th, 2009, 05:36 PM   #1
Grn99Kawi
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08/09 J Shock Installed - Initial impressions

OK.. so I picked up a 2008 J model rear shock on ebay last week.. paid $46 with shipping.. I figure that was a good deal since I see them selling for more than that without the shipping.. so it came in.. My only concern was that it did not say "Kawasaki" on it, but it had a KYB label on it.. no worries.. it seems that KYB was the OEM supplier for it.

Well, using the FAQ from www.ninja250.org, I decided to do the swap today instead of tomorrow.. got home earlier than expected today... why not...

Install was very straightforward.. its easier if you have someone to make sure that teh bike doesn't drop off the center stand (I was somewhat concerned about that) but one person can do it with care.. I did.

I pulled the two shocks and lined them up for pictures.

Here is the standard "F vs. J" pic.. F on top, J on bottom..


Here are some other shots I would have liked to see.. the mounting points.. here are both ends compared to each other.. EX250F shock on left, EX250J shock on right.


I left the preload at what I think is "1" the loosest.. but that is another question that I will save for later..

As is, the back of the bike felt MUCH stiffer.. much better.. even coming off the center stand, the back didn't drop the way it used to. the little moan it would let out (I'm sure the unitrack needs to be greased) was not there... sitting on the bike, it didn't sag like it did with the stock shock. If I dropped my weight on it (205#) it felt like it fought back to not drop.
I took it for a quick ride around the neighborhood and it does feel better.. the only downside is that the front softness is a tad more noticeable.. might have to look into upgrading the front next.

I do have a question for 08/09 owners... what is "1" and what is "5"? I assume that the preload on "1" is the softest and "5" the stiffest?

Here is what I mean..

I have red dotted lined around the plastic lock piece.. it is on the lowest notch now, making the spring its longest I believe.. so I'm pretty sure that it's at "1". Nonetheless, the bike feels better even like that.

Overall, (at least initially) I like it and recommend it as good bang for the buck.

Adam
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Old April 15th, 2009, 05:42 PM   #2
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the "lowest" (lowest being the one that extends closest to the bushing) notch is the most preload - it pushes the spring upward and when you decrease a springs free length you load the spring
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Old April 15th, 2009, 05:44 PM   #3
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ok after looking at it I may have the orientation upside down making my highest lowest backwards, but still the setting the takes away free length of the spring adds preload
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Old April 15th, 2009, 05:58 PM   #4
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if you want the shock to be it's softest, adjust the preload adjuster so the spring length is at it's longest. The shorter you make the spring as you jack up the preload, the stiffer the ride will become.

to lubricate the unitrack linkage for now, spray a light lubricant (wd-40 or similar) into every thing that pivots when the rear end goes up and down. You will need to disassemble to properly grease it later, but for now, any lubricant you can get into the pivot points is better than none. If it's making noises, something is dearly lacking of grease. You be surprised how much easier the rear end will work with a little light lubricant to free up any binding.
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Old April 15th, 2009, 06:06 PM   #5
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kkim you are the last person I would try to correct on this board but IMHO WD40 is not what I would recommend for spot lubing the pivots. WD is a great dispersant and decent penetrant but a poor lubricant. white lithium would be much much better until proper lubrication and disassembly
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Old April 15th, 2009, 06:09 PM   #6
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HHS2000 if you can get ahold of some. Made by Wurth under the Sabesto line.
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Old April 15th, 2009, 06:20 PM   #7
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yep, I agree with you, but at least it's some sort of lubricant. Are there better products out there? most definitely. But I wouldn't run out to go buy something specific for this application when a regreasing is in the future. I dislike the spray on white lithium grease I bought... doesn't seem like it would penetrate as well as wd40. My lubricant of choice for work of this nature is Triflow, but it's a bit pricey.

the debate over wd40 will rage on forever... do you know there are some that swear by it as a chain lube?
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Old April 15th, 2009, 06:21 PM   #8
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HHS2000 if you can get ahold of some. Made by Wurth under the Sabesto line.
bet you get that at work, eh?
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Old April 15th, 2009, 06:24 PM   #9
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Ya I cheat a little. BMW dealerships usually carry it though. To lube my chain i clean it off with some Rost Off then spray some HHS2000 on it.

The HHS2000 gets slick when pressure is applied and is sticky so it stays with whatever you spray it on. We use it on kart bearings instead of axle grease to reduce friction and keep them lubricated. Rubber and plastic safe. Ok... shameless plug over.
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Old April 15th, 2009, 06:28 PM   #10
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figured so... have you priced the stuff you're recommending as well as trying to find some in a hardware store on Kauai?

I agree... great products, but a tad pricey, but, hey... if you're not paying for them, why not??!
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Old April 15th, 2009, 06:34 PM   #11
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lol it's about $30 a can for us. I'd say about $70 for ya'll.
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Old April 15th, 2009, 06:36 PM   #12
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lol... I buy Ace Super Lube when it's on sale for $1.99 a can.
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Old April 15th, 2009, 06:38 PM   #13
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I go faster. haha
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Old April 15th, 2009, 06:41 PM   #14
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not on a curvy road.
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Old April 15th, 2009, 06:42 PM   #15
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30 to 70?? jeebus.
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Old April 15th, 2009, 06:44 PM   #16
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don't you know that standard retail markup is usually about100%?
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Old April 15th, 2009, 06:46 PM   #17
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Back to topic...

I think the shock conversion was a great idea. Setting the preload is easy as pie (especially when you have a guy do it for you). Has anyone sourced the shock from KYB? It looks like an entire assembly and not just a cartridge. $47 isn't ridiculous though.
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Old April 15th, 2009, 06:47 PM   #18
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Quote:
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don't you know that standard retail markup is usually about100%?

Most auto parts are marked up about 300%. At least the ones we get from OEM suppliers. Porsche brakes are the best. We can get them for $30 per rotor. List price $600. Ouch.
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Old April 15th, 2009, 06:50 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by TnNinjaGirl View Post
Back to topic...

I think the shock conversion was a great idea. Setting the preload is easy as pie (especially when you have a guy do it for you). Has anyone sourced the shock from KYB? It looks like an entire assembly and not just a cartridge. $47 isn't ridiculous though.
I have one coming in that was $35 shipped off ebay.

Yeah for a pregen this is a great mod... now, time to beef up the forks!
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Old April 15th, 2009, 06:52 PM   #20
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Porsche brakes are the best. We can get them for $30 per rotor. List price $600. Ouch.
where were you a few years ago??
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Old April 15th, 2009, 06:56 PM   #21
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In the womb. lol
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Old April 15th, 2009, 07:10 PM   #22
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So I was right about my shock being at the lowest preload then, right? By moving the collar, you will push the spring rate higher, right?

I do understand how WD40 isnt the best, but as kkim said, it is better than anything until i can pull the unitrack and perhaps the swingarm apart to grease all.
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Old April 15th, 2009, 07:13 PM   #23
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it appears so, from the photo you posted. I was trying to stay away from referencing numbered positions in my explanation.

you are free to use whatever lubricant you decide... it was more a suggestion to illustrate the point.
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Old April 15th, 2009, 07:15 PM   #24
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Oh sweet! This may be my next (ie: first) mod. My poor little ninja keeps struggling to hold my heavy butt up!!

Thanks for the post! Anybody know where I can find some stiffer forks?
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Old April 15th, 2009, 07:18 PM   #25
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http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Front_suspension_upgrades
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Old April 15th, 2009, 07:33 PM   #26
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Chalk that one up to noobness! Thanks kkim!
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Old April 17th, 2009, 05:08 PM   #27
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Drove it around some more today.. definately feels better than before..
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Old April 17th, 2009, 06:52 PM   #28
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Is it easy to adjust the preload while on your bike. Is there enough space to turn the preload wrench?
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Old April 17th, 2009, 06:56 PM   #29
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Quote:
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Is it easy to adjust the preload while on your bike. Is there enough space to turn the preload wrench?
That I don't know.. I "believe" that if you remove the left hand side cover, you would be able to get the stock 08/09 spanner wrench in there.. I have not changed preload yet.. it is still at 1 and feels fine. I will be buying a stock 08/09 wrench from RonAyers and putting it under the seat just in case I want to make some changes. But that's for later on.
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Old April 18th, 2009, 11:00 AM   #30
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hey adam, thanx for the mod info you've shared here...suspension is not too far down my mod list, and your 'been there-done that will help alot!

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Old April 18th, 2009, 04:54 PM   #31
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Grn99Kawi , give us a ride report on this baby!

Does it do anything to the seat height?
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Old May 21st, 2009, 10:38 AM   #32
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My seat feels significantly higher after doing this to my bike. Went from a shock with 16,000 on it to 4,000.
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Old August 5th, 2009, 02:35 PM   #33
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The J shock is beefier than the F shock. Great mod.
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