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Old March 1st, 2021, 12:08 PM   #41
Edge Genesis
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Ohh I didn’t know the igniter was in the cdi box... 0-0. I knew you need that for the bike to actually start but I don’t think you need it for a neutral light. I had just unplugged it on the one I have that’s in working orde and I could still get a neutral light. I’ll rewire the switch and test more.
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Old March 1st, 2021, 12:59 PM   #42
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It sounds like I may have a bad safety switch. The bike doesn’t even have the regular kickstand :/ I can probably check the clutch safety and I was thinking about putting the neutral switch into an 08 I have to check if the neutral was good. I’ll have to look up and see if they are compatible.
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Old March 1st, 2021, 01:22 PM   #43
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I have two Cdi’s. One came from a 97 and the other is from a 95. I’ve used them both on a 07. They both work. I don’t have a bike older than 95 so I think we’re good there. I’ll be sure to have it hooked up from now in while testing lol
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Old March 1st, 2021, 02:04 PM   #44
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MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17
good, if all your igniters are 95+, they all should work with +95 harnesses.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Edge Genesis View Post
It sounds like I may have a bad safety switch. The bike doesn’t even have the regular kickstand :/ I can probably check the clutch safety and I was thinking about putting the neutral switch into an 08 I have to check if the neutral was good. I’ll have to look up and see if they are compatible.
Why would safety switch be bad if engine's cranking? Measure resistance of neutral switch to chassis ground to verify it's working if you want to test. If bike's cranking when you push start button, then all ignition switch electronics and safety switches are working.

Ignitor doesn't have anything to do with safety switches. Conversely safety-switches don't have anything to do with ignitors, ignition, coils or sparks.

Measure power at coils and test for spark.

Don't waste time on anything else. EVERYTHING is working ok bike, except for ignition. So we just need to narrow in on that only.
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Old March 1st, 2021, 02:34 PM   #45
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Thumbs up

DUDEEEE I THINK WE FOUND IT!! okay so I hooked everything up, switch, battery, and cdi. I also tested the plugs from the harness into the cdi. They all check out. Okay so get this. With all of that plugged in. I get nothing. No lights, starter button has no power. Nothing. BUT! As soon as I bridged the solenoid with a screw driver... I GOT AN OIL LIGHT!! never thought I would be so happy over an oil light... haha. So while I was turning the engine over I pressed the starter button, and heard clicking!! So I think our problem is somewhere there in the solenoid! I still didn’t get a neutral light. But I have an extra switch I am going to test, then if nothing I’ll check the bulb. But that would also explain why I had the same problem on the other bike because I am using the same solenoid. I think it’s the connection for the fuse. It was hardly fitting. I could just turn it upside down and it would fall out. I tried to tighten the connections but idk.
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Old March 1st, 2021, 02:35 PM   #46
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Oh and I still had no spark but perhaps that’s because of the neutral light?
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Old March 1st, 2021, 03:19 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edge Genesis View Post
DUDEEEE I THINK WE FOUND IT!! okay so I hooked everything up, switch, battery, and cdi. I also tested the plugs from the harness into the cdi. They all check out. Okay so get this. With all of that plugged in. I get nothing. No lights, starter button has no power. Nothing. BUT! As soon as I bridged the solenoid with a screw driver... I GOT AN OIL LIGHT!! never thought I would be so happy over an oil light... haha. So while I was turning the engine over I pressed the starter button, and heard clicking!! So I think our problem is somewhere there in the solenoid! I still didn’t get a neutral light. But I have an extra switch I am going to test, then if nothing I’ll check the bulb. But that would also explain why I had the same problem on the other bike because I am using the same solenoid. I think it’s the connection for the fuse. It was hardly fitting. I could just turn it upside down and it would fall out. I tried to tighten the connections but idk.
Do you mean you connect the two large terminals on starter-solenoid?
This is an artificial operation that's not normal operations for bike. Do these tests. Undo any custom bridging, key/switch OFF.

1. measure voltage at B-terminal. Volts = ???

2. measure voltage at M-terminal. Volts = ???

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Old March 1st, 2021, 03:20 PM   #48
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No there isn’t any custom bridging. All I do I use a screw driver to connect the two and that will spin over the starter motor.
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Old March 1st, 2021, 03:23 PM   #49
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MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17
Measure voltages at B and M terminals.
Most likely your cables are backwards.


review symptoms: https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=345904
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Old March 1st, 2021, 03:26 PM   #50
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You're skipping too many steps:

Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
No, your wiring is fine and quite well-done actually! Let's make this simple and start from very beginning. Gimme just ONE voltage reading. No wiring involved.

1. What is voltage of battery measured at battery terminals?

You can just post picture of meter-reading of battery voltage if you want. One thing that helps speed things up is to use test-leads with alligator clip to keep black/negative probe of meter connected to battery negative terminal.


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Old March 1st, 2021, 03:27 PM   #51
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Do not skip this!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by dannoxyz View Post
next:

2. Measure voltage at big b terminal on starter solenoid. Voltage = ???



3. Measure voltage at fuse inlet. Voltage = ???



4. Measure voltage at fuse's outlet leg. Voltage = ???




electricity flow is like water and pipes. We are tracing from source (battery) down all little pipes and wires to various destinations. Where voltage disappears shows break/fault.

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Old March 1st, 2021, 03:27 PM   #52
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MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17
full-stop here. Do not continue until you do four measurements outlined above. You may not believe in voltage-measurements, but they are critical to troubleshooting, pinpointing problem area, and finding solution. Each and every single step down to millimeter and millivolt matters:

1. battery-voltage = ??? volts
2. B-terminal voltage = ??? volts
3. fuse input = ??? volts
4. fuse output = ??? volts

This is literally 5-minute fix! How much time have you wasted since starting this project? Certainly more than 5-minutes.

Have you seen U.S. Army recipe for chocolate-chip cookies?

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Old March 1st, 2021, 03:51 PM   #53
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No laughing... they’re on backwards.. O.o I guess I assumed they would connect to the cluster terminals 0-0. I’ll switch them tomorrow and see what we get. I check the voltage and they’re all consistent with the battery. I’ll help you updated.. :////
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Old March 1st, 2021, 04:14 PM   #54
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Mechanics have been measuring voltage and following flow of electricity as part of troubleshooting process for over 120-years now. This is tried and true procedure, it definitely works regardless if you've got Model-T or Ferrari FXX. Don't skip steps or else you'll be giving us false data and we'll have to go around in circles repeatedly over and over again and nothing changes.

Before doing anything do this:

measure voltage at starter-solenoid B-terminal. Volts = ??? (DO NOT PROCEED UNTIL YOU'VE POSTED THIS NUMBER)




STOP!!! Do not pass GO! Do not collect $200 until you've posted voltage measurement above!

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Old March 1st, 2021, 05:52 PM   #55
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STOP!!! Do not take any more steps after measuring and posting voltage above.

Next steps, so as to not waste any more time and energy, will depend upon on exact voltage you measured and posted in above measurement. NO ONE knows what that voltage is yet until you actually measure and post it!

DO NOTHING BUT THIS!!!

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Old March 1st, 2021, 05:57 PM   #56
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???

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Old March 1st, 2021, 05:57 PM   #57
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Old March 1st, 2021, 05:58 PM   #58
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This is most important number out of ALL troubleshooting steps.

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Old March 1st, 2021, 05:59 PM   #59
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The quicker you gather this number, the quicker you'll get bike running.

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Old March 1st, 2021, 05:59 PM   #60
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Old March 1st, 2021, 06:00 PM   #61
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Old March 1st, 2021, 06:00 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post







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Old March 1st, 2021, 06:00 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
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Old March 2nd, 2021, 04:04 PM   #64
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I switched the terminals, they are now hooked up correctly. When I turn the switch I get a oil light, and neutral light. However I do not have power to the starter button. When I use a screw driver I do have spark on the plugs. I tried to start them today but not luck. I was getting gas to the carburetor, too much actually. I believe the plugs may be bad, they spark but it isn’t a strong one. I tested all of this on two different bikes. Same results. Lights, spark, engine crank, but no start. I’m not sure why the starters aren’t working on either of the bikes. Possibly a fuse? Other than that that’s where I am. I’m going to but fresh plugs in tomorrow and I’ll have the battery’s recharged over night. One of the bikes acted like it wanted to start more than the other. I was getting a little backfire on it.
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Old March 3rd, 2021, 03:50 PM   #65
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Both bikes behave same way because same person has been messing with them using non-effective troubleshooting and improper repair techniques.

All information you need to finish this has already been posted. You just don't want to properly troubleshoot and measure, which is preventing us from getting proper data to analyse and thus prolonging time to resolution.

Again, this is 5-minute repair procedure. I've wasted enough time posting same thing over and over again. Goodbye.
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Old March 3rd, 2021, 09:32 PM   #66
Edge Genesis
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I got it running. Lol I already tested the voltage. That wasn’t even the problem. But thanks for your advice. Sorry to waste your time copying and pasting.
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