cheap chinese knockoff rotors?

[subxero]

Chinese knock-off stuff is ever so tempting to anyone living on a budget. But when is it ok to take risks?

Looking for anyone with REAL WORLD EXPERIENCE or at least has a bff that uses Chinese rotors.

Please save your posts of "wouldn't trust my life to cheap Chinese rotors" That is the whole point of this thread as most people probably wouldn't, but perhaps there is a brave, cheap soul out there that has taken the plunge, lets hear what they have to say.

I have done some interwebz search and found many positive write ups on various motorcycle forums regarding the Chinese rotors. Several people on larger cc bikes using them at the track and on the street with no issues, and report great feel and performance short and long term alike.

So again, anyone here have any experience?

[alex.s]

i think kevin had chinese rotors

[subxero]

Originally Posted by alex.s

i think kevin had chinese rotors

not sure exactly where to go with that

[alex.s]

lol

[mania]

I am running one I thought was a Nassert
later found it must be a Chinese knock off as Nasert does not do 320mm

But fine quality & no problems
pic here

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=167523

[tooblekain]

A lot of quality rotors in the automotive industry are being made in China these days

[subxero]

Originally Posted by mania

I am running one I thought was a Nassert
later found it must be a Chinese knock off as Nasert does not do 320mm

But fine qulity & no problems
pic here

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=167523

Nice, I was actually looking at doing something similar. Saw the Beet Nassert kits. You said in that other thread $100usd? I feel like on their website they are listed for much more than that? And they gave you a mounting adapter/bracket with the kit?

[mania]

Originally Posted by subxero

Nice, I was actually looking at doing something similar. Saw the Beet Nassert kits. You said in that other thread $100usd? I feel like on their website they are listed for much more than that? And they gave you a mounting adapter/bracket with the kit?

Yes as I said in my post it is not a Nassert
they ( I assume Chinese company ) just copied name

They also do the same in Indonesia whee I saw this rotor
advertised as Koso brandtrying to ride Koso brands name.

One more thing is thise Delkevic swingarms you see from
Indonesia.......they are not made byDelkevic either

[subxero]

gotcha, that is crazy though, it says on the box Beet Nassert

[psych0hans]

The knockoff eBay rotors all list as 310mm. Where can I get the 320mm ones from? Or are they all wrongly listed as 310mm but are actually 320mm?

[nickjpass]

Originally Posted by psych0hans

The knockoff eBay rotors all list as 310mm. Where can I get the 320mm ones from? Or are they all wrongly listed as 310mm but are actually 320mm?

You thread reviver you.

[maverick31210]

Originally Posted by tooblekain

A lot of quality rotors in the automotive industry are being made in China these days

I work in the auto business and this is true.

Lots of private labeling going on. You can see the same part from 3-4 different suppliers under different names but in reality they all come from the same factory in China.

For the most part, you're fine. Manufacturing in China is not what it was 15-20 years ago. The quality has gone up substantially but the stigma is still around.

[subxero]

Originally Posted by psych0hans

The knockoff eBay rotors all list as 310mm. Where can I get the 320mm ones from? Or are they all wrongly listed as 310mm but are actually 320mm?

i think they are 310, mine is a 310 i found out after i had second guesses and measured it. It was listed as a 320

there are lots of different ones, i get the ones that are the thickest, typically 4.5mm min thickness markings vs the 3.5mm min thick ones They are the Ara Shi brand i think it is? They have a racing website and look legit,

I have had no problem with the one i put on my n250 with the brembo 4 pot i have. It has minimal wear holding up really well. Had some initial jitters but that was mainly because i didn't clean it well and break it in correclty... my fault not rotor.

I plan on picking up a set of similar for my rz project bike when i get the coin

[psych0hans]

Actually, I need a set of 320mm rotors for a project... Any idea if there are cross compatible with other bikes?

[subxero]

nothing i am aware of

i think the 07 and 09 r1s have 320mm fronts but i doubt the holes are even close

i think nassert beet might actually sell 320mm rotors for the ninja? have you checked? they are not cheap if i remember correctly

[Somchai]

What I don't understand is why one is fixed on the number 320 (is it the thing about the bigger the better )?
Are those using the brakes in such extreme and hard way that the rotors become overheated?
When I remember well Nassert-Beet rotor is 310 mm, link: http://japan.webike.net/products/1794516.html
Also don't forget that a bigger rotor in some cases means more weight.

[psych0hans]

Originally Posted by Somchai

What I don't understand is why one is fixed on the number 320 (is it the thing about the bigger the better )?
Are those using the brakes in such extreme and hard way that the rotors become overheated?
When I remember well Nassert-Beet rotor is 310 mm, link: http://japan.webike.net/products/1794516.html
Also don't forget that a bigger rotor in some cases means more weight.

The reason I'm looking for 320mm specifically is that the forks I'm using are off a bike with 320mm rotors, so it would be easier to retrofit.

[Somchai]

Originally Posted by psych0hans

The reason I'm looking for 320mm specifically is that the forks I'm using are off a bike with 320mm rotors, so it would be easier to retrofit.

Ah Bro, now I understand
But why not using the oem rotors from where your forks come from, not possible?

[spooph]

Originally Posted by subxero

i get the ones that are the thickest, typically 4.5mm min thickness markings vs the 3.5mm min thick ones They are the Ara Shi brand i think it is? They have a racing website and look legit,

I found this out with EBC rotors. Everybody says to buy EBC instead of Kawi brand rotors, well, the reason EBC's are half the price of a Kawi rotor is because it has half the usable thickness.

Stock is 5mm thick, EBC's are 4.5mm. Factory service limit is 4mm. Just something to think about.

Originally Posted by Somchai

What I don't understand is why one is fixed on the number 320 (is it the thing about the bigger the better )?
Are those using the brakes in such extreme and hard way that the rotors become overheated?

I have melted my front brake pads before by braking super hard and super late which causes the rotor to heat up and overheat the contacting "layer" of brake pad. There isn't enough time to disperse the heat and it pulls that "layer" completely off melting it to the rotor. The rotor is never the same after that and would require machining to bring back to being capable of applying full force again. I really wish Kawi had made this a dual front rotor, not because the bike needs it, but because I want it and like to brake super hard at the very end of the stopping zone.

[Somchai]

Originally Posted by spooph

I have melted my front brake pads before by braking super hard and super late which causes the rotor to heat up and overheat the contacting "layer" of brake pad. There isn't enough time to disperse the heat and it pulls that "layer" completely off melting it to the rotor. The rotor is never the same after that and would require machining to bring back to being capable of applying full force again. I really wish Kawi had made this a dual front rotor, not because the bike needs it, but because I want it and like to brake super hard at the very end of the stopping zone.

I understand what you're saying, since I'm also used to brake when others already start to accelerate again...
So if this is the case then
- get a good caliper (Brembo and nothing else)
- get brake pads which can stand
- get a rotor that's worth its name
and you won't have this problem(s) no more.

[corksil]

I 'upgraded' to a brembo front caliper and ssr bracket that looks identical to the one in the picture above.

Also installed chinese rotors. For some reason they sent me two. I only ordered one, and the package came with two packing slips for the same order and two rotors. From ebay I believe.

No problems in a few thousand miles, and the feel from the brembo caliper is waaaay better. I had SS braided lines before and after the upgrade so that counted for nothing in terms of the upgrade in feel.

Only problem I had was that the SSR bracket positioned the rotor such that it was wearing too far toward the axle.

The chinese rotor I purchased was not like the one in the picture, it was more of an OEM style.

[spooph]

Originally Posted by Somchai

I understand what you're saying, since I'm also used to brake when others already start to accelerate again...
So if this is the case then
- get a good caliper (Brembo and nothing else)
- get brake pads which can stand
- get a rotor that's worth its name
and you won't have this problem(s) no more.

Help me understand here. If I already have enough clamping force to melt a pad, why would I need a brembo caliper?

Completely agree on the brake pads and rotors though!

[Somchai]

Originally Posted by spooph

If I already have enough clamping force to melt a pad, why would I need a brembo caliper?

you're kidding me, this question can't be serious - so let's together

Never you can compare a floating 2-piston cheap caliper with a fixed 4-piston Brembo caliper, or do you really want to tell they are the same?

Please keep what you have, be happy with it and forget what I said.

[spooph]

Originally Posted by Somchai

you're kidding me, this question can't be serious - so let's together

Never you can compare a floating 2-piston cheap caliper with a fixed 4-piston Brembo caliper, or do you really want to tell they are the same?

Please keep what you have, be happy with it and forget what I said.

I'm sorry, I didn't mean to be offensive. I genuinely don't know how the Brembo caliper would benefit me in this situation. Does having a floating caliper distribute the force more evenly, and therefor won't melt the pad? My understanding of brakes is very limited, so please educate me.

As I understand it, when I clamp down on a new pad/rotor after proper break in, the nearest "layer" of break pad material overheats and melts. The break pad material doesn't allow the entire brake pad to heat up quickly enough and distribute the heat to keep the pad surface contacting the rotor from overheating and melt onto the caliper.

I know and understand the Brembo offers more force, but I seem to already have enough force. So, how does the 4 piston, fixed caliper help in keeping the break pad from melting? Would it just increase the amount of force I have available and thus exacerbate the problem?

[quarterliter]

Originally Posted by spooph

I have melted my front brake pads before by braking super hard and super late which causes the rotor to heat up and overheat the contacting "layer" of brake pad. There isn't enough time to disperse the heat and it pulls that "layer" completely off melting it to the rotor. The rotor is never the same after that and would require machining to bring back to being capable of applying full force again. I really wish Kawi had made this a dual front rotor, not because the bike needs it, but because I want it and like to brake super hard at the very end of the stopping zone.

This seems to me to be a brake pad issue. Do you know what pad you were running? Maybe a set of pads that are designed to work at a higher temperature may be in order.

[Somchai]

Spooph, no need to be sorry or to excuse, but maybe your reason is that my answer was to harsh, so please excuse me for this.
Also excuse me when I sometimes have problems to declare things in an understandable way since english is not my native language.
The first let me tell you to read the answer from Kevin, he is right - your pads might be wrong for what your doing.
Your brake pads should NEVER melt, brake pads are burnt (the first layer which touches the rotor when you're braking and from this the dust is coming) - sorry this is one point I don't know how to translate in a better way.
An easy to understand point is when you ask yourself why do only cheap and slow bikes have a floating caliper and supersports have fixed calipers? So here you have the answer already...
One big disadvantage of the floating break is twisting and so a less precise pressure point. The side where the piston is located is having more brake force than the other side. A fixed caliper is stiffer than a floating caliper.
The only advantage of the floating caliper is that it is much cheaper to produce and also in the most cases lighter than a floating caliper.
The difference to understand Brembo against floating calipers maybe is with a Brembo it takes 5 seconds brake force against 10 or more with a floating caliper, you're able to use the brake at a much later point and the power of braking is much higher. But at least all theory doesn't help, you must feel this by yourself to understand.
Please remember also that all the Moto-GP bikes use Brembo's and NOT Tokico or Nissin brakes or whatever is sold (there are some other good ones also) and by the way the same is with cars. The world best brake calipers for cars are also produced from Brembo by specifications from Porsche.
Many say (and from my point they are right) floating calipers is expensive garbage.
I hope with this answer I could help you a little bit to understand better what I mean.
The attached pictures may illustrate how the calipers work