Riveting new master-link

[headshrink]

I just put on a new chain/sprockets last night. Last time I just used a clip-style master, but this time I went with a riveting link. I followed the directions for the Motion-Pro press/rivet tool as close as I could. Unfortunately the new chain (RK) did not specify how much to flare the rivets, so I went with the middle number listed on the tool's instructions. Unfortunately the link is a bit stiff, and one of the O-rings (WX-ring) looks like it is bulging out a bit.

Should it be OK to go with the current laster a little tight, or will I need to order a new master, cut the old off, and try again?

[indr]

If you decide to do it again, you can use digital callipers to measure the distance between the outer plates on the master link and compare to no-master link plates.

[leed]

I think you will see more benefit if you put a new one on. Reason being if there is a lot of compression on that o-ring, there will be increased wear. Same goes for the stiff link (likely due to the tight o-ring). And as they say, the chain is only as strong as the weakest link.

[headshrink]

New master is in the mail....

[dubojr1]

Good choice!

[headshrink]

Now I'm trying to figure out how to get the old link off, w/o damaging adjacent links....
I know I can grind the rivets, and cut the plate, but I can't push out a pin on a master. I anticipate it will still be a bit tight, as just pressing the plates took a bit of effort. Any tricks?

[kbryant]

Originally Posted by headshrink

Now I'm trying to figure out how to get the old link off, w/o damaging adjacent links....
I know I can grind the rivets, and cut the plate, but I can't push out a pin on a master. I anticipate it will still be a bit tight, as just pressing the plates took a bit of effort. Any tricks?

Actually fairly easy (but proceed at your own risk). No need to cut the face plate. Position it on the rear sprocket. Grind the rivet heads down flush with the plate. Take a punch pin and small hammer, tap it where the "pins" are/were equally on each pin. It "normally" does not require much tapping force to then push the pins/plate out of the face plate and remove masterlink from the other side. I've done this hundreds of times without damaging the sprocket.

Also, don't get too hung-up on not utilzing a masterlink with clip. I use them all the time on 200+ hp sportbikes, along with 50+ hp mx bikes. Either application puts far more stress on the masterlink area than you will ever experience with the 250.

[headshrink]

Cool, thanks Kerry!

[HKr1]

I never ground on the master, just used the tool to push the pins out.

Also, the tool press has a grove on it. It only pushes the link down so far, then it hits the pin ends. Theres no way to crush it down too far ??

^ maybe you used the one for the clip???

[choneofakind]

I'm replacing the chain this winter. I don't have a set of calipers, but I do have a a set of feeler gauges. I was just planning on using my feeler gauges to measure the space for the x-rings, and then flaring the rivets to make the master link the same spacing. Are there any obvious issues with using this method?

[leed]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

I'm replacing the chain this winter. I don't have a set of calipers, but I do have a a set of feeler gauges. I was just planning on using my feeler gauges to measure the space for the x-rings, and then flaring the rivets to make the master link the same spacing. Are there any obvious issues with using this method?

I'm not sure, but fairly accurate digital calipers can be had at Harbor Freight for about 10 dollars. You can probably find vernier calipers for even less. They come in handy for lots of things, especially if you're doing any CAD :P

But to be honest, feeler gauges would probably get the job done just as easily.

[headshrink]

Originally Posted by HKr1

I never ground on the master, just used the tool to push the pins out.

Also, the tool press has a grove on it. It only pushes the link down so far, then it hits the pin ends. Theres no way to crush it down too far ??

^ maybe you used the one for the clip???

What you are saying does make sense on the surface, but I did find I was able to press it too far. When I measure the plates, it is tighter than the other links. Although the back plate on the tool has that groove, the front plate has the holes, so the pins stick through, and you can continue to press. One of the o rings is even bulging.

I think I might go with the clip if I was placing another order, but to be honest, I did want to try the rivet just for the sake of trying it.

[HKr1]

Originally Posted by headshrink

What you are saying does make sense on the surface, but I did find I was able to press it too far. When I measure the plates, it is tighter than the other links. Although the back plate on the tool has that groove, the front plate has the holes, so the pins stick through, and you can continue to press. One of the o rings is even bulging.

I think I might go with the clip if I was placing another order, but to be honest, I did want to try the rivet just for the sake of trying it.

I looked up that tool, it kinda sucks. Also looks like only 1 press plate, and the holes in the back are no good..




http://www.rkexcelamerica.com/2008/c...structions.pdf

^This is what I have in mind when I made the comment: < RK

[headshrink]

Originally Posted by HKr1

I looked up that tool, it kinda sucks. Also looks like only 1 press plate, and the holes in the back are no good..




http://www.rkexcelamerica.com/2008/c...structions.pdf

^This is what I have in mind when I made the comment: < RK

My tool looks just like this...
The holes are necessary to press the plates, but that is also what allows them to be over-pressed. I guess if they used a grove like the back plate, instead of the holes, it might work as you stated.