Full exhaust + airbox mod = how hi maintenance are the carbs/jetting?

[675Raisinator]

I am planning on doing a full area P race exhaust and removing the air box in favor of k&n pod system... but i was wondering how hi maintenance the tuning will be... Can i set it once and forget it or is this something I am going to have to be fixing all the time? That said would it be better to just leave the stock air box alone or maybe just mod it a little. Pls note this is a track dedicated bike. Sorry if this question has already been answered.

[Boosted139]

No matter if you go with or without stock air box, jetting is trial and error. If you want it perfect it's going to take adjustment.

[675Raisinator]

the area P full race system comes with an deleted air box Jet setting ... if i just set to that will i be good to go or will i have to be all over it?

[Boosted139]

It has a recommended setting. Does not mean it is perfect. Temperature and elevation play a role as well.

[cuong-nutz]

I don't know the CMRA guidelines if you plan on racing but you will have to read the rules just to make sure. I think some racing orgs say you cannot remove the airbox. If it's just track days, than no rules besides the track day orgs's.

It will take some time to truly fine tune it and squeeze every little bit of power out of the carbs.

Factory Pro has an awesome tutorial on how to tune:
http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tunin...m_engines.html

Also, it really depends on what jet kit you get. Dynojet has a decent beginner kit and Factory Pro has lots of jets and what not you can switch out to truly fine tune to your needs.

Also look at the jetting database to see what other specs people are running:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10208

Once you remove the airbox, you will have complete access to your carb not to mention easier to take out. I highly recommend you remove your carb to remove the jets and what not or else you will be hating life when you strip the heads the screws. The Milwaukee Offset screwdriver only helps in limited situations.

And don't forge to sync your carbs too.

The DIY section about covers everything you need. Read through it and post a questions if you still don't understand.

[setasai]

Originally Posted by 675Raisinator

the area P full race system comes with an deleted air box Jet setting ... if i just set to that will i be good to go or will i have to be all over it?

As you probably know by now... no such thing as "good to go" when it comes to carbs since the world is dynamic but carb settings are fixed. What you can expect from a "recommended setting" is that it'll run decent but not perfect. For some it might be enough, for more experienced track riders, not so much.

Ride your bike stock and try to remember how it feels when it's 30degF and when it's 85degF. At one temperature, it'll run better than the other... that will not change if you dont adjust the carbs as the environment around you changes.

Also please do all the reading you possibly can in the DIY section and FAQ's about carb settings. It's a straightforward but tedious process that really only works in one direction, ie you cant tune the idle mixture screws first and work your way to the mains. Just doesnt work that way.

[Felipe the Ant]

If you're lazy like me it'll take you about a week, or at least a few days to get the carbs tuned right. It'll run fine and you can ride it, but it's the fine tuning that takes a while. Once you get it though you don't have to touch them again for at least a few months when the weather changes. If you pound down a red bull and love taking the bike apart a million times you can definitely do it in a day, it's not hard.

Plan on at least a full day though of just exhaust/airbox removal and rejetting for the first time. The exhaust will take about 3 seconds compared to that airbox. Save it for last, consider it dessert.

[Kevin2109]

Stick 106 Dynojet jets in it and youll be fine, and turn the idle to 2.5-2.75 turns

[ForceofWill]

If you're gonna go all out with a full exhaust and intake mod, I would highly recommend going with the Area P and their dynojet kit. It has extremely detailed instructions about everything, including jetting theory for carbs in there. They also include the settings that they achieved best results for on their dyno with the race exhaust. Should give you a very good place to start, and much less trial and error than another pieced together set I would think.

*I have the Area P Race with K&N and kleen removed. Using 108's, 3rd notch needle and ~2.8 out on screw.

[Kevin2109]

Is 106, its hot where you live, 108 is too much. Trust me, ask any socal person on here, Ive had my carbs open at least 15 times

[Skippii]

I've never really understood why people insist on rejetting 10 times to get it absolutely perfect, but people never have any desire to perfect the stock jetting on a bike without mods.

The recommended jetting settings that come with a full exhaust set are going to be closer to optimum than what Kawasaki uses on the stock bike.

[drvr5]

Not quite what you're running, but my bike with stock exhaust (cut down and partially gutted stock muffler), r-0990 pod and no kleen air system required a rejet for winter riding in Phoenix, AZ. Bike was slightly rich in summer with kiehin 110 mains, .5mm shim under needles. Winter (temps 45-60 deg F) it seems about perfect with 115 mains and 1.5mm shim under the needles.

I wouldn't even consider changing the intake or exhaust without being ready to rejet- Flowing more air without more fuel will make your bike run leaner (how lean depends entirely on how your bike's stock settings were, which is why people recommend jet kits that have multiple jets so you can fine tune), which means that your engine could very well run worse than it did stock: have terrible throttle response, less power, or worst case, burn a piston and junk your motor.

[alex.s]

try it and tell us how it works out

[Skippii]

Originally Posted by drvr5

it seems about perfect with 115 mains and 1.5mm shim under the needles.

I tried a very similar setup once. It ran perfectly and got about 30 miles per gallon. I went back to 110 jets and it went back to 60mpg, with almost no other difference.

[drvr5]

Originally Posted by Skippii

I tried a very similar setup once. It ran perfectly and got about 30 miles per gallon. I went back to 110 jets and it went back to 60mpg, with almost no other difference.

I was at 57-58 with 110's, I'm now down to 52-53. The tank right before the rejet from 110-115 was down at 54... I blame the cold air for most of the mileage loss. Looking around the board at other people's setups, I think my bike just likes very different tuning than the norm.