Advice needed: Plasti dipped rims

[Baron]

Lately I've been toying with the idea of green plasti dipped rims. I know, I know, Damned-Lucifer-in-a-G-string, What's the matter with you Baron? Have you gone green with envy over some greener grass on the other side? You'll turn into a green eyed monster with a green horn who always looks green around the gills. First the green chain now green rims, next it'll be the shorts then the.......nevermind.

I've yet to get the green chain because of some unseen expenditure so that would probably be done along with this one. So back to this issue, up until this point I was a bit sceptical about this because blaze green didn't exactly match the lime green that is Circe's colour but they added electric lime green under their full spectrum some time ago.

It looks like we may have a winner over here[colour-wise]. However when I asked their 'authorized installers' they said it's going to cost me $120 to get two rims done, needless to say that I'll be doing it myself. I was hoping to get some plasti dip advice since I've never done it myself and I don't want to royally screw it up[as long as I am not royally screwing up, I'm good].

[ForceofWill]

Can't really royally screw it up plasti-dipping. Just get enough and take your time. Lay down the first few coats really really thin. And make sure you clean them really well and tape everything off.

[Baron]

Originally Posted by ForceofWill

Can't really royally screw it up plasti-dipping. Just get enough and take your time. Lay down the first few coats really really thin. And make sure you clean them really well and tape everything off.

I am more concerned about getting the shade right. I know it's impossible to match it exactly, however I want to get as close as possible.
Someone suggested a gunmetal/black basecoat, some said white and yet someone somewhere said, just use it as is.

[NevadaWolf]

You could always buy one can of all three if inexpensive enough, find a spare board or box to flatten out, and spray some test strips to see what the base coats would do to the color of the top coat.

Then you could test the color changes of any layers effects.

Make notes of what you have done, what the results were, and when you find the magic combination, have fun with the rims.

[Baron]

Originally Posted by NevadaWolf

You could always buy one can of all three if inexpensive enough, find a spare board or box to flatten out, and spray some test strips to see what the base coats would do to the color of the top coat.

Then you could test the color changes of any layers effects.

Make notes of what you have done, what the results were, and when you find the magic combination, have fun with the rims.

Sounds good. A can is about 19.30 including tax, so I guess it should be fine, better than paying 120$ for 2 rims.

[NevadaWolf]

I hope it works the same with Plasti Dip. That's what I had to do with my ColoRite cans when i repainted my fairings to find the combination that would match. Took some experimenting and time to let the paint dry fully so be patient.

Can't wait to see the result!

[Bigballsofpaint]

Originally Posted by Baron

Sounds good. A can is about 19.30 including tax, so I guess it should be fine, better than paying 120$ for 2 rims.

If you're just using white or black as a base coat you can buy them at lowes for cheaper (at least around here). Could save you a little money at least, they dont carry the different colors though. If you like it, i recommend clear coating over it. It will make it harder to remove, but if you dont it will chip pretty fast and almost positively will peel in sport during a tire swap.

[Baron]

Originally Posted by NevadaWolf

I hope it works the same with Plasti Dip. That's what I had to do with my ColoRite cans when i repainted my fairings to find the combination that would match. Took some experimenting and time to let the paint dry fully so be patient.

Can't wait to see the result!

Should, unless it works differently on metal and cardboard.
I have other things in mind if this works out well but I'm keeping them under wraps for now.
I'll post back when I am done. Thanks

[Baron]

Originally Posted by Bigballsofpaint

If you're just using white or black as a base coat you can buy them at lowes for cheaper (at least around here). Could save you a little money at least, they dont carry the different colors though. If you like it, i recommend clear coating over it. It will make it harder to remove, but if you dont it will chip pretty fast and almost positively will peel in sport during a tire swap.

It would more or less be the same, I'll see if I can get it at the local store though.
A clear coat? I was thinking of using a metalizer hoping that it would do the job of protecting it as well.

[Bigballsofpaint]

Originally Posted by Baron

It would more or less be the same, I'll see if I can get it at the local store though.
A clear coat? I was thinking of using a metalizer hoping that it would do the job of protecting it as well.

That works too, as long as there is something over the plastidip to stop it from rubbing off

[Baron]

Originally Posted by Bigballsofpaint

That works too, as long as there is something over the plastidip to stop it from rubbing off

Sounds good. Thanks

[ForceofWill]

Honestly man you seem like you really want a specific color. I'd just pony up the dough and have them powder coated the exact color you want. It will look nicer and last forever.

[Baron]

Originally Posted by ForceofWill

Honestly man you seem like you really want a specific color. I'd just pony up the dough and have them powder coated the exact color you want. It will look nicer and last forever.

I do but I've heard of cases where powder coating actually decreased the strength of a forged wheel. I know it depends on the process and the temperature but I'd rather have a colour that is close enough rather than being an exact match to taking a risk with powder coating.

[JosueDG]

How about taking a rattle can to them? I have heard that Dupli-Color DE1641 lime green is a really close match.

I would think that it would last more cleanings/scrubbing than plasti-dip plus you will have the added gloss from the spray paint.

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by Baron

I do but I've heard of cases where powder coating actually decreased the strength of a forged wheel. I know it depends on the process and the temperature but I'd rather have a colour that is close enough rather than being an exact match to taking a risk with powder coating.

Not if it's done properly.

Improper techniques can decrease the strength of any heat treated metal.

I powder coat a ton of 12"-wide forged race wheels, and their strength is tested constantly. Temperatures are monitored during the entire process and always kept in a safe range. If there was a problem, I would know about it pretty quickly.



Jay
www.apexcustomcoating.com

[Baron]

Originally Posted by JosueDG

How about taking a rattle can to them? I have heard that Dupli-Color DE1641 lime green is a really close match.

I would think that it would last more cleanings/scrubbing than plasti-dip plus you will have the added gloss from the spray paint.

I did look into that and that actually what I wanted at first. However with plasti dip I get the option of reverting back at any given time. I know when it comes to longevity, it falls behind conventional painting but given the flexibility it gives, I swayed towards it.

Originally Posted by jkv45

Not if it's done properly.

Improper techniques can decrease the strength of any heat treated metal.

I powder coat a ton of 12"-wide forged race wheels, and their strength is tested constantly. Temperatures are monitored during the entire process and always kept in a safe range. If there was a problem, I would know about it pretty quickly.



Jay
www.apexcustomcoating.com

Awesome stuff there and I understand, that's why I said, it depends on the process. However I am still going to try and go the plasti dip way first. If I like the look enough to make it permanent, I might consider powder coating[but only if I find someone who is just as careful with the process] or painting it.

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by Baron

Awesome stuff there and I understand, that's why I said, it depends on the process. However I am still going to try and go the plasti dip way first. If I like the look enough to make it permanent, I might consider powder coating[but only if I find someone who is just as careful with the process] or painting it.

Thanks. You can try the Plastidip, but I wouldn't expect anything close to a color match. Doing a good job, even with Plastidip, is time-consuming. Plenty of cleaning and masking to get a decent job. Be sure to put on enough, or it can be a pain to remove.

Painting is better, but you need to be very careful when changing tires and the overall durability (especially with spray cans) won't be very good. Professional catalyzed paints are better, but nowhere near the durability of powder. The only advantage of paint over powder is the simplicity - bearings don't need to be removed and you can leave the tires on (I would break the bead and drop the tire down so you can clean and paint into the bead area).

Powder coating does require a complete stripping of the wheel - bearings, seals, rotors, etc. The best process is to strip the original paint/coating off and media blast the bare metal. Then clean and chemical conversion coat the bare surface. Then mask the mating surfaces and bearing areas with high temp tape. After that is on to powder and curing, which needs to be monitored constantly to insure there's enough heat/time - but not too much. I charge $115 for a 17" cast cycle wheel in a single-stage coating - and for the time and work involved to do it right that's not bad.