Where Clutch Should Engage

[Liist]

When I got my bike, the clutch engaged near the middle of the pull and that's the way it's been until I let the mechanic test ride my bike. When he test rode it, he adjusted where the clutch engages near the end.

It was quite a shock at first trying to take off but it didn't take long to get used to. I can now rev match on downshifts easier but still forgetting where it engages when I'm at a stop.

Where do you like the clutch to engage and why? Is having it engage near the end the way it's supposed to be?

[choneofakind]

That's the way mine is. Seems normal to me?

I purchased adjustable levers (and an ex500 clutch perch so I can mount them on my pregen) so I can hopefully bring the engagement point in, without putting so much slack in the clutch cable that the lever vibrates and buzzes.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by Liist

........, he adjusted where the clutch engages near the end.

What end?

[Felipe the Ant]

I like it in the middle so I don't have to pull it all the way to shift, I'm lazy lol. It doesn't really matter where it engages, just as long as it doesn't slip

[shiftyninja]

Should be where you feel comfortable. The mechanic should have asked you before adjusting or adjusted it back. Mines about halfway like others. As Felipe said as long as it doesn't slip, you should be fine.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Liist]

Originally Posted by Motofool

What end?

End away from me, towards the front of the bike.

[choneofakind]

If it bugs you that the engagement point is that far out, either buy adjustable levers to bring the engagement point in, or adjust a little slack into the cable, and the lever will come closer to you and bring the engagement point along with it

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by Liist

End away from me, towards the front of the bike.

Then verify that he did it in a way that there is a minimum of 2 mm of cable slack at the very end.

If not, the clutch is not getting fully engaged because the cable does not completely release the lever that enters the clutch cover, which could ruin the discs and springs.

[Liist]

I know the clutch is fully engaging. There is about a half inch before I feel the friction zone. Just more out than I'm used to.

[Sigma.40]

Mine engages at the end. It took a little getting used to, but I think I like it there now.

[blink]

give or take 4-6 mm from the middle is where mine is

[Miles_Prower]

mines out towards the end, and so far I'm not sure if I like that, though it may be because I've only put 25 miles on my bike so far LOL. It's just an awkward feeling when I think I've nearly let my clutch out all the way, yet the bike doesn't start moving. Already had an instance where I thought I was in neutral so I pulled it back in and tried to downshift (was in 1st already).

To make it worse, I'm tiny, and I have small hands so I kind of have to "reach" to get the lever.

[raybolic]

If it's near the end.. isnt it a lot harder to feather the clutch when going low speed or low speed cornering? I find myself feathering whenever I am going extremely slow in traffic..

[cbdallas]

The important part of clutch adjustment is making sure that adequate freeplay exists between the lever and the base when the clutch is released. 2-3 mm is enough. If your clutch is engaging near the end of the lever's travel, it's possible that you have no freeplay, which can eventually burn your clutch if this situation causes slippage.

On the other side of that coin, adjusting in too much freeplay for the purpose of earlier engagement can cause a lack of complete disengagement when you fully squeeze the lever, causing rough shifts and eventual transmission damage, as well as accelerated clutch wear due to it being partially engaged when the bike is stopped.

Adjustable levers are great for putting the friction point where you want it. I'd be hesitant to use the cable adjuster for this purpose.

[CZroe]

My understanding is that the friction zone moves forward as the clutch wears regardless of the adjustment slack. Mine doesn't engage until it is almost completely forward, meaning it's probably time for a new clutch.

[Felipe the Ant]

Originally Posted by CZroe

My understanding is that the friction zone moves forward as the clutch wears regardless of the adjustment slack. Mine doesn't engage until it is almost completely forward, meaning it's probably time for a new clutch.

Only if your cable is adjusted as tight as possible and isn't stretched beyond spec

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by Felipe the Ant

Only if your cable is adjusted as tight as possible and isn't stretched beyond spec

New cable.

[zzrguy]

get adjustable levers they are op! When in heavy traffic you can save your clutch hand!

[Kevin2109]

Mine is adjusted to grab as the lever is just about the reach full pull (so pulling it in all the way) I like it that way because i can launch quicker with it

[vkuchhal]

Sorry to have revived an old thread. but after going thru all the post available on the ninjette. have a question regarding the zone.

Have attached in image the discusses the friction zone. my question is that what happens if from position 3 to 4 is very small. does it reflect the the clutch plates are gone.. I am unable to identify any clutch slippage in the bike.. please guide..



PS: There is 2 mm of free play in the lever.

[Flying]

Originally Posted by vkuchhal

Sorry to have revived an old thread. but after going thru all the post available on the ninjette. have a question regarding the zone.

Have attached in image the discusses the friction zone. my question is that what happens if from position 3 to 4 is very small. does it reflect the the clutch plates are gone.. I am unable to identify any clutch slippage in the bike.. please guide..



PS: There is 2 mm of free play in the lever.

The friction zone on the Ninja 250 is a little small, that's normal and not indicative of excessive clutch slippage.

[RacinNinja]

A trick I use when adjusting cable clutches is to use a nickel. You should be able to insert a nickel in between the lever and the perch.