DIY- Removing the Kleen Air System Hoses and Plugging the Holes on a 08 250R

[GeneJunkie]

Kind of a dumb question... do you need to rejet after doing this mod?

[kkim]

no

[MikeCG23]

Am I going to have to do this if I just get a slip on?

[kkim]

if it pops on decel after you install it, yes.

the most accurate answer is... most likely.

[MikeCG23]

Awww crap. That looks complicated

[kkim]

it's not, really. if you get stuck, post up your problem and I'm sure someone will be able to help you sort it out.

btw, you don't have to do this mod if you add a slip on. you can just live w/ the popping... some people even like it that way.

[HorizonXP]

What if I have popping on decel with my stock exhaust? Haven't touched the carbs or snorkle. My exhaust valves are apparently too tight though...

[kkim]

Originally Posted by HorizonXP

What if I have popping on decel with my stock exhaust? Haven't touched the carbs or snorkle. My exhaust valves are apparently too tight though...

how do you know that?

[HorizonXP]

Originally Posted by kkim

how do you know that?

Doing my 12,000 km valve adjustment today. I need to take better measurements (my feeler gauges suck, the values jump from 0.15mm to 0.18mm to 0.20mm), but they're definitely between 0.20mm and 0.23mm.

[spooph]

Great write up Kim! But I'm wondering if I'm wrong here.

I thought the kleen air system was designed to vent valve-train pressures and vaporized oil to the airbox and thus get burned through the engine, instead of venting to the atmosphere. I thought the extra oil in the air/fuel mixture is what caused the popping in the exhaust?


I didn't realize it injected air into the exhaust system? I thought the valve train was sealed from the combustion chamber? Isn't that what the valve seats are designed to do? And I haven't seen a port leading to the "chimney" on the valve cover from the exhaust ports. What am I getting wrong here?

I removed mine a while ago, simply because it makes maintenance easier. I then put one of those little K&N breather filters on there, and I think it makes it sound awesome. Valve train noise is a little louder, and it makes the thing sound like a machine.

[kkim]

Originally Posted by spooph

I thought the kleen air system was designed to vent valve-train pressures and vaporized oil to the airbox and thus get burned through the engine, instead of venting to the atmosphere. I thought the extra oil in the air/fuel mixture is what caused the popping in the exhaust?


I didn't realize it injected air into the exhaust system? I thought the valve train was sealed from the combustion chamber? Isn't that what the valve seats are designed to do? And I haven't seen a port leading to the "chimney" on the valve cover from the exhaust ports. What am I getting wrong here?

from Sport Rider magazine...

KLEEN(tm) (Kawasaki Low Exhaust Emission) System

* Helps keep exhaust emissions environmentally friendly
* KCA (Kawasaki Clean Air) system routes fresh air to the exhaust ports for reduced exhaust emissions

http://www.sportrider.com/bikes/2004...res/index.html

[Vip3rV333]

If I just clamp the big tube leading to the air box will it have the same effect? I want to just test the effects out w/o removing everything for now. I have way to much popping on throttle let off with my slip on. Used to sound cool now it just gets annoying as it causes way to much attention. (thats bad?! )

[wayanlam]

Originally Posted by Vip3rV333

If I just clamp the big tube leading to the air box will it have the same effect?

i believe it might have the same effect, i saw a bike at the mechanics that did that. the mechanic told me that the owner was too conservative to take it all out, and opted to just plug the big pipe that used to plug into the air filter.

try it out and when you find that it has eliminated the backfire, buy this cap and close it off for good



nice and tidy under the fuel tank now. and a little lighter

[Momaru]

Looks good Wayan. Alternatively, you can DIY a blockoff cap for almost free using some spare thick-ish sheet metal (think it was 16 gauge) and using the OEM breather valve (what the blockoff plate replaces) as a pattern.

[wayanlam]

yeah, i researched it a little over here after i got this bit. and i found that i could get a sheet thats 200 x 100 x 0.6 cm of billet aluminium and get almost 500 of these from that one sheet, making the material cost roughly 50 cents, lol

labor cost to cut them out (manualy at a metal lathe place, not CNC) would cost another 2.5 buks. so theoretically i could make them for $3. but thats just too much work and too many pieces, haha... unless someone wants to buy the other 490~ bits!

[Momaru]

I'm sure you could probably sell at least half of 'em to forum members. I know my little dremel-cut blockoff plate took a lot longer to get looking decent than I wanted it to; time I could've spent doing other things like riding.

[Boosted139]

I just removed the kleen air system and I just plugged both ends. I purchased the block off plate, but when i removed the oem plate, i noticed it had a gasket while the new plate did not. Just wanted to double check that is how it's supposed to be. I assume it's fine, but nothing wrong with double checking

[kkim]

if the oem plate uses a gasket, I would advise to use a gasket with the new plate... or at least some sort of gasket sealer type of material. last thing you would want is an air leak there.

[wayanlam]

hey justin, the gasket (rubber block with a metal spring valve) sometimes sticks to the OEM plate. all you need to do is pull it off, and put it back in the hole (the right way round).

in my case the rubber gasket stayed in the bike, i took it out, and cleaned it up before putting it back in and closing it up with the new block off plate.

[Boosted139]

Originally Posted by wayanlam

hey justin, the gasket (rubber block with a metal spring valve) sometimes sticks to the OEM plate. all you need to do is pull it off, and put it back in the hole (the right way round).

in my case the rubber gasket stayed in the bike, i took it out, and cleaned it up before putting it back in and closing it up with the new block off plate.

Makes sense, thanks!

[Momaru]

Same deal for me; it stayed in there when I pulled my breather valve off, but I pulled it cleaned & replaced it. Also put a little high-temp gasket sealer around the outside metal rim, just to be sure.

[DR1300R]

Originally Posted by MikeCG23

Am I going to have to do this if I just get a slip on?

My question as well?

[DR1300R]

Originally Posted by kkim

if it pops on decel after you install it, yes.

the most accurate answer is... most likely.

And answered..

[Jojah17]

Sorry to revive this DIY but I gots a question for y'all. I've got PODs and the Kleen air system removed from my bike (shop installed when I took in for an initial checkup/rundown). Finally decided to take a peek at this today and I've got a question. Instead of blocking off the hole in the cylinder head I've got a tube that runs back to another hole under the carb assembly ontop of the case (possibly the crank case vent-port right next to the VIN?). Is this a horrible idea? Should I remedy this ASAP? Am i going to blow myself up? Should I stop drinking so much? Thanks in advance!

Edit: Just went and looked...this is definitely whats going on.

Ninja Edit 2: stolen from another forum...sounds like its not a big deal:

"By tying the two hoses together air can't go anywhere. Hence the valves don't open (and air doesn't flow into the exhaust). Block off plates accomplish the exact same thing and like you said, it looks cleaner.

What you're talking about with the crankcase vent is referred to as "Crankcase evacuation".

Normally you don't want crankcase pressure building so any positive crankcase pressure is pulled into the intake tract and burninated. The mod in question ties the crankcase vent to the clean air system. So the reed valves STILL function, but instead of pulling in fresh air (and causing popping on decel) you're pulling in that ****** crankcase air (which doesn't go "pop"). This vacuum causes negative pressure in the crankcase which in turn causes the rings to expand (creating a better seal). So in turn you have a little more cylinder pressure and you make a bit more power.

It's probably hardly noticeable in this application, but if anything it's "free" horsepower, so why not. The only drawback with crankcase evacuation is faster cylinder wall and ring wear (not very extreme in this application), and in certain car engine applications can starve the valvetrain of oil."



...maybe i'll leave it

[kkim]

Originally Posted by Jojah17

Sorry to revive this DIY but I gots a question for y'all. I've got PODs and the Kleen air system removed from my bike (shop installed when I took in for an initial checkup/rundown). Finally decided to take a peek at this today and I've got a question. Instead of blocking off the hole in the cylinder head I've got a tube that runs back to another hole under the carb assembly ontop of the case (possibly the crank case vent-port right next to the VIN?). Is this a horrible idea? Should I remedy this ASAP? Am i going to blow myself up? Should I stop drinking so much? Thanks in advance!

Edit: Just went and looked...this is definitely whats going on.

Ninja Edit 2: stolen from another forum...sounds like its not a big deal:

"By tying the two hoses together air can't go anywhere. Hence the valves don't open (and air doesn't flow into the exhaust). Block off plates accomplish the exact same thing and like you said, it looks cleaner.

What you're talking about with the crankcase vent is referred to as "Crankcase evacuation".

Normally you don't want crankcase pressure building so any positive crankcase pressure is pulled into the intake tract and burninated. The mod in question ties the crankcase vent to the clean air system. So the reed valves STILL function, but instead of pulling in fresh air (and causing popping on decel) you're pulling in that ****** crankcase air (which doesn't go "pop"). This vacuum causes negative pressure in the crankcase which in turn causes the rings to expand (creating a better seal). So in turn you have a little more cylinder pressure and you make a bit more power.

It's probably hardly noticeable in this application, but if anything it's "free" horsepower, so why not. The only drawback with crankcase evacuation is faster cylinder wall and ring wear (not very extreme in this application), and in certain car engine applications can starve the valvetrain of oil."



...maybe i'll leave it

why would you want to?

[Jojah17]

Because "Crankcase Evacuation" sounds awesome??

Seriously though, I'll probably end up going with a block off plate/breather on the crankcase vent but its good to know that its not the most uncommon thing in the world.

[Jojah17]

Update: decided to slap on a block off plate and run a regular crankcase breather. Bike looks cleaner, seems to warm up faster and have a bit more throttle response. Not sure if its in my head but glad I did it.

Total time:
Installing block off plate and breather- 7 mins
Shake down run around the block- 5 mins
Running out of gas on way back home, going to get gas- 35 mins
Having the gas tube pop off of the canister and go directly into my gas tank- 2 secs
Getting the damn thing out- 1 hr...


Im awesome!

[NicoleH28]

I have a hose that Im not sure where it goes...it's coming up right out of the middle of the carburetor? Does that come off?

[NicoleH28]

So, I have Kleen Air System off however, I have an extra tube. It was coming up right between the carbs...can that be remove?

[Jojah17]

Where does it run to? Sounds like the vacuum line for the petcock.

[nattygirl]

Does the other end of that tube plug into this?



Or is it a Skinner, thinner tube? If so, jojah's probably right. When you put your tank back on, you plug that tube back into the peacock that's under the gas tank.

[NicoleH28]

Here are the hoses the extra one I am confused about is the bottom one


And here is where it was connected...

[nattygirl]

Take a look at kkims picture in my previous post. Do you have that long tube that is running down the middle and goes down the back? I'm pretty sure that's where it goes. One end connects to the carbs and the other end remains open. I think its for overflow. Can someone please confirm?

[NicoleH28]

Yeah it wasn't connected to anything at all on the other end...so it just hangs there for air flow?

[nattygirl]

Its not for air flow... I'm pretty sure its for excess fluid/gas in the carbs. So they don't get flooded. Any excess just drips down to the bottom. There should be some mounted loopholes that you slide that tube through. It helps hold them in place. My bike has two tubes that just hang through there. But I think cause mine is a Cali model.

[NicoleH28]

I figured it out and the bike it back together and running! Woohoo!

[nattygirl]

Have you rode your bike yet? Did it take away your popping with the two bros exhaust?

[NicoleH28]

Nope, started raining here...
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[shawn57187]

I was looking at another DIY for removing the kleen air system and saw this comment. I'm wondering what you guys think about it? The poster seems to think the popping sound means we need better carb tuning.

The Clean Air System operates by using the carburetor intake manifold vacuum through the vacuum switch valve to create negative pressure in the crankcase. It then carries the crankcase / cylinder vapors to the combustion chamber to be burned. The vacuum switch valve of the clean air system also serves to function as a pressure relief point for crankcase / cylinder head vapors, in the event of an internal engine malfunction (much like the PCV system on a car). If this occurs, excess vapors are vented through vacuum switch valve into the air cleaner. One symptom of crankcase vapors flowing into the vacuum switch valve is oil residue in the air filter housing.

When the engine is running, a certain amount of combustion gas escapes past the rings into the crankcase; this is normal. When the engine is at idle, vacuum overcomes the spring tension of the check valve and causes it to move inward and restrict vapor flow into the intake. When the bike is cruising and vacuum is lower, the spring tension moves the check valve away from the seat, allowing higher flow of crankcase vapors into the intake. Control of crankcase vapor flow is used to prevent excessive amounts of vapors into the intake at idle speed. This could cause rough idle or incorrect idle speeds.
The air suction valve is on top of the valve cover and is attached by hose to the vacuum switch valve. The position of the air suction valve allows it to pull vapors from inside the engine without sucking oil from the crankcase (reeds on the underside of the air suction valve deflect and help separate droplets of oil from the blow by vapors). A hose connects the vacuum switch valve to a vacuum port on the air cleaner housing. This allows the vapors to be siphoned directly into the engine without gumming up the throttle body or carburetor.

Because the clean air system pulls air and blow by gases into the intake manifold, it has the same effect on the air/fuel mixture as a vacuum leak. This is compensated for by the calibration of the carburetor or fuel injection system. Consequently, the clean air system has no net effect on fuel economy, emissions or engine performance -- provided everything is working correctly. Combustion gases consist mostly of carbon dioxide and water vapor, but do contain small amounts of unburned fuel and other contaminants. Water and fuel vapors in the crankcase can react to rapidly break down and shorten the life of engine oil. In addition, these vapors contribute to the formation of sludge in the crankcase. The worst case scenario if the Clean Air System is plugged or blocked is blown seals, blue exhaust smoke, power loss, poor drivability, excessive carbon build up in the combustion chamber & possible head damage.

WARNING: Removing or disconnecting the clean air system in an attempt to improve engine performance, gains nothingand is illegal. EPA rules prohibit tampering with any emission control device. Disabling or disconnecting the clean air system can also allow moisture to accumulate in the crankcase, which will reduce oil life and promote the formation of engine-damaging sludge.

Backfire, popping, knocking, crackles...etc. is caused by a too rich or too lean carb. The amount of crankcase vapor on the carb and combustion system is nill, because of the calibration of the carb and the vacuum switch valve. Hope this has helped somebody.

[NicoleH28]

Yikes, hope we don't ruin our bikes by taking off the kleen air system
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