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Old November 8th, 2021, 11:28 AM   #1
OcarinaElf
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2007 Dying while riding

I bought a used 2007 Ninja with 22,000 miles and I've had the bike for about a month now. Ran pretty well, have put about 300 miles on it since I've gotten it, overall no issues. The other day I ordered new turn signals which are LED's and wired them up. I'm still waiting on a flasher as the stores around me are OOS. After that, I took the bike out and was cruising around 70 when my throttle stopped revving, and the bike eventually cut out and died at speed. I was able to get it started once or twice more (once with a kickstart), but since then I've been having issues.
The bike starts on occasion, sometimes with a verrrrryyyy slow idle, and every once in a while it will fully rev up. Sometimes it will totally die if I dump the clutch, and sometimes it will start very shakily. I can take it about a block before it inadvertently dies again. I replaced the battery and ordered spark plugs. I've read posts about this possibly being a vacuum issue with the fuel, and left the tank open when starting, but not much difference. Going to bring it into service soon, though might see if I can clean the carbs myself, or do anything else that could get it running before that.
Any thoughts?
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Old November 8th, 2021, 02:30 PM   #2
SuspectPage3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OcarinaElf View Post
After that, I took the bike out and was cruising around 70 when my throttle stopped revving, and the bike eventually cut out and died at speed. I was able to get it started once or twice more (once with a kickstart), but since then I've been having issues.
The bike starts on occasion, sometimes with a verrrrryyyy slow idle, and every once in a while it will fully rev up. Sometimes it will totally die if I dump the clutch, and sometimes it will start very shakily. I can take it about a block before it inadvertently dies again. I replaced the battery and ordered spark plugs. I've read posts about this possibly being a vacuum issue with the fuel, and left the tank open when starting, but not much difference. Going to bring it into service soon, though might see if I can clean the carbs myself, or do anything else that could get it running before that.
Any thoughts?
Mate, your problem sounds quite similar to mine, I am no expert to advise, but you may want to go through my post https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=367585
and see what others have responded and follow through if that helps. I am yet to fix the issue completely and have done few steps of trouble shooting so far. I will follow your post to see what others say as well. Hopefully we both will be back on road soon
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Old November 8th, 2021, 04:51 PM   #3
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hi and welcome to Ninjette!

You have been inflicted with most common issue with these bikes! Over 80% of new owners encountre it and many are defeated by it and dump their bikes. You have "Ninjette dirty and clogged carbs syndrome!!!". Reason it took while to act up is rust and debris took time to work their way from tank to carbs to combine forces with gunk at bottom of float bowls. When their levels built up enough, they got sucked up by jets into passageways that accumulated enough to block flow. Then bike stutters worse and worse until it dies completely. You will NOT be able to fix this issue without drastic measures...

Due to their small size, these carbs have some of tiniest and easiest to clog passageways in existence! To make them, Kawasaki had to employ specialised Kaze elves from Yakushima forest for their thousands of years of smelting and wind-harnessing experience. No one really knows how these carbs are made, just that there's lots of voodoo and black arts involved.

Many, many extremely skilled mechanics, who can tear an engine apart, rebuild it and put all back together in less than 1 day, have admitted defeat at cleaning and fixing these carbs. They've had to repeatedly pull these carbs 4, 5, 6 times! for ever deeper cleaning until it was factory-fresh clean. Sometimes, there's blood sacrifise needed! One person had to pull them 9 times!!! Then finally, bike would run like brand-new off showroom floor.

So... I suggest you deploy ultimate nuclear WMD operation with full restoration 1st time around. Otherwize, you'll be pulling them over and over again. What's involved?

1. complete tear down of carbs to every last nut, bolt and individual component. If it can be futher separated, take it apart even more!


2. scrub out every secret hidden passage with acetone and PEA-based fuel system cleaner. Spray carb-cleaners no longer work due to removal of clhlorinated compounds (thanks! crunchy granola bark eating crystal worshipping tree hugging smelly hippies!).
http://n4mwd.blogspot.com/2013/10/se...-passages.html

3. poke out all microscopic bleed holes in jets, emulsion tubes, carb-venturi, choke circuit with soft copper wire. In one recent case, non-removable choke jet had to be drilled out with micro-bit, it was so clogged with dried petrol that NOTHING could clear it.


4. soak everything in ultrasonic cleaner for days on end using caustic radioactive solvents. Amazon - 4L Ultrasonic cleaner

5. micro soda-blast everything @ 10000psi! All that scrubbing leaves tonnes of dried petrol plastic flakes everywhere to clog things up.

6. replace all rubbers: float-valves, fuel-rail O-rings, pilot-screw O-rings, float-bowl seals with modern Viton & fluoroelastomer versions to deal with modern ethanol petrol. Perhaps even slide diaphragms if needed

7. set float levels and wet-test

8. sync carbs

If you leave any step out, you can't be guaranteed that carbs are factory-fresh clean and will have to pull them yet again to do missed step. Luckily, we have wizard who has has worked on millions of these carbs and has reversed-engineered the secret elve's black magic and is able to get them factory-fresh clean 1st time around. Do search on here for "clean carbs ducatiman" to find posts with photos of what's involved.

Some related threads:

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=365823
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=354327
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=352293
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=366273
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...13#post1225613

That 1st link above was by extremely skilled guy who could do this kind of custom work:
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=117501
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=117957
But in end, even he was defeated by dirty clogged carbs and sent them to "The Wizard" to work his magic.

Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; November 8th, 2021 at 09:48 PM.
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Old November 8th, 2021, 08:34 PM   #4
OcarinaElf
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Thanks for the heads up Suspect, I've been scouring forums and all kinds of posts that recommend all different types of things. I may try the air filter test that got mentioned in your thread. I have some more free time coming up so I think I'll double down and totally wipe the carbs, thank you for the detailed post Danno. If anything changes I'll update
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Old November 8th, 2021, 09:41 PM   #5
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Note that you have 2007 pre-gen model while Chinmay has 2008 new-gen model with completely different airbox. You just have to remove seat and squirt some petrol down 2 air-cap ports that are just behind and under tank. Put some rags underneath airbox bedorehand as some petrol will leak out through seam.



Wait 30-sec, start engine and rev it. You'll have same result. Engine will rev great with instant throttle response until extra petrol runs out. Basically shows you've got fuel-flow problem with engine not getting enough petrol from carbs.

Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; November 9th, 2021 at 12:54 AM.
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Old November 9th, 2021, 09:05 PM   #6
OcarinaElf
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Bike is back to running

Ended up just being one my petcock hoses being folded over, might have been totally on me. Fired right up, rides great, idling well, etc. Carb clean will wait for another day but for today just dropped some seafoam in the tank.

Thank you for all the info Danno , I'm sure it'll come into play one day.
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Old November 10th, 2021, 05:42 AM   #7
Triple Jim
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Very good, I'm glad you're up and running!

Seafoam really doesn't do anything except make money for the company who makes it. According to the Seafoam safety data sheet it contains "hydrocarbon blend" (like gasoline is) and isopropyl alcohol. The gasoline I buy already has more alcohol in it than I like.

https://seafoamworks.com/uploads/pub...210608-sfi.pdf

Additives with PEA like Techron will tend to dissolve deposits in the carbs, and Sta-Bil will help keep fuel from getting bad and gumming things up.
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Old November 10th, 2021, 07:28 AM   #8
DannoXYZ
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Seafoam is snake-oil, pure marketing and profit.

Similar to STP Oil Treatment back in '80s. Doesn't really do much and it cost Granatelli millions in class-action lawsuits.
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Old November 10th, 2021, 06:06 PM   #9
shspvr
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Originally Posted by Triple Jim View Post
Very good, I'm glad you're up and running!

Seafoam really doesn't do anything except make money for the company who makes it. According to the Seafoam safety data sheet it contains "hydrocarbon blend" (like gasoline is) and isopropyl alcohol. The gasoline I buy already has more alcohol in it than I like.

https://seafoamworks.com/uploads/pub...210608-sfi.pdf

Additives with PEA like Techron will tend to dissolve deposits in the carbs, and Sta-Bil will help keep fuel from getting bad and gumming things up.
You should watch Taryl's about Fuel Additive Experiment Videos
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Old November 10th, 2021, 07:55 PM   #10
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You should watch Taryl's about Fuel Additive Experiment Videos
Nothing worked very well in that video, but I'm more concerned with how gunked up the carbs get than how well the fuel works after a year.

I'd rather see how they run after a year if he put fresh fuel in each one. That would tell us how well the additives prevented carb clogging.
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Old November 10th, 2021, 09:46 PM   #11
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Yes, needs a control sample for all experiments.

It's like all the people who automatically get better performance by putting giant jets in their carbs. But they never started with common baseline: factory fresh clean. It's always from some stage of dirty and clogged, so degree of problems vs amount of improvement is impossible to quantify.
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Old November 11th, 2021, 02:40 AM   #12
shspvr
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Nothing worked very well in that video, but I'm more concerned with how gunked up the carbs get than how well the fuel works after a year.

I'd rather see how they run after a year if he put fresh fuel in each one. That would tell us how well the additives prevented carb clogging.
Actually you missed the whole point of the video you see as gas sit it starts creating a gel in the open air with exception of high cost VP gas and the whole point of the video was for people need to lean shut off fuel and run the engine out of fuel in the carburetor or drain the carburetor as long as your fuel tank cap has proper self sealing vented cap just like EFI system so you see it should last 1 year with or with out any snake oil.
Did any one not pay attention to the vented and sealed jars
The gas will last a lot longer then you think

Last futzed with by shspvr; November 11th, 2021 at 07:09 AM.
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Old November 11th, 2021, 05:38 AM   #13
Triple Jim
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Originally Posted by shspvr View Post
Actually you missed the whole point of the video you see as gas sit it starts creating a gel in the open air with exception of high cost VP gas and the whole point of the video was for people need to lean shut off fuel and run the engine out of fuel in the carburetor or drain the carburetor as long as your fuel tank cap has proper self sealing vented cap just like EFI system so you see it should last 1 year with or with out any snake oil.
Did not pay attention any of the vented and sealed jars
The gas will last a lot longer then you think
So my problem was that I missed the whole point and didn't pay attention. OK, I'll try to not pay attention to your future posts too.
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