May 23rd, 2012, 06:34 PM | #1 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Sammy
Location: Kentucky
Join Date: May 2012 Motorcycle(s): 1996 Kawi Ninja250 Posts: 10
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Bike won't start using starter switch
Ok so I bought this bike about a month ago not running... When I first got her the first thing I did was put a new battery in and try to crank it... kill switch was busted so I just twisted the wires together... but it would try to crank over... after sealing the tank and waiting 4 days I put gas in and tried to crank it using the start button and it won't do anything... I get no click or anything... Jumped the solenoid and it tries to crank.. I eventually got her running just fine by jumping the solenoid... I originally thought the solenoid was the problem... I figured it would be a good idea to replace it anways so I did, still no go.. checked fuses and all are fine except my turn signal fuse keeps blowing (which I think I just remembered why this is happening lol), I pulled the junction box out, inspected the connections which are all fine, and opened it up and it looks like there are two relays in there.. anyone know what relays are for what? Anyone got the scoop on replacements (yes, i can solder). Got any other ideas of what the issue could be? Any help would be appreciated..
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May 24th, 2012, 07:24 PM | #2 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Bryan
Location: TX
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Sounds like the whole right handle bar control is messed up. I'd suggest replacing the whole thing. The start button is damaged from the way you describe it.
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May 24th, 2012, 08:23 PM | #3 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Sammy
Location: Kentucky
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Thanks but i dont think its the start button... I took the control housing apart and installed a temporary push button in place of the start button amd still get nothing... Im fairly certain i Burnt out the relay... I ordered a new junction box on ebay for 10$ as the relays themselves are 15$... Ill post an update if it doesnt fix the issue... Thank you for replying though as ive had several threads with hardly any responses... Very quiet forum...
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May 25th, 2012, 04:58 AM | #4 |
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Name: Bryan
Location: TX
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If you don't think its the button then use a multi-meter and check the connection running from the junction box to the button and to the solenoid.
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May 25th, 2012, 05:56 AM | #5 | |
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Quote:
From your description it sounds like the bike was abused and left out in the cold and rain. As such, I would check ALL electrical connections and look for signs of corrosion.
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May 25th, 2012, 04:24 PM | #6 | |
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Name: Bryan
Location: TX
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October 9th, 2012, 10:45 PM | #7 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: David
Location: woodbury
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I am jumping my solenoid. Does the clutch need to be pulled in? My handle/perch is missing as well but I can actuate the cable.
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October 10th, 2012, 05:09 AM | #8 |
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If everything is correct, you should be able to put it in neutral and start it. The neutral switch overrides both the clutch and kickstand switches.
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October 10th, 2012, 06:36 AM | #9 |
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Name: jesse
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whatever you do...try at least to figure it out first(goes for anyone)
dont just "buy another" taking things apart can be intimidating but you learn alot. eventualy you end up rewinding your own stator and rebuilding your own starters..saves $ and its fun..if you ever come to the point of that learning though nomsayn
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October 12th, 2012, 11:49 AM | #10 |
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I pulled the little connector off and there are three terminals in there. Mashing the start button I get no voltage to any of these. Where does the wire from the switch come to the solenoid?
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October 12th, 2012, 12:22 PM | #11 |
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Check to make sure your starter solenoid is working. It has four terminals, two bolt connectors and one 30A fuse. Make sure the fuse is good.
Put bike in neutral and short the two bolt terminals across each other with a wire. The engine should turn over. If it does, then work your way backwards from the solenoid to the starter switch. Make sure the Kill switch is set to run.
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October 16th, 2012, 08:20 PM | #12 |
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Name: David
Location: woodbury
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Worked on my start button issue today. I pulled the handle bar switch again. I have 12V on one wire on the switch.
Traced the black and red wire back to the harness here and it ohms from the button to the green connector under the tank and from the mate to that plug to here to the fuse box. The wire bring back the voltage is good. When I jump the solder spots on the back of the button switch nothing happens. So I pull the fuse box... |
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October 16th, 2012, 08:29 PM | #13 |
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Name: David
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Sorry bout the pictures got dark and camera don't know how to focus(might be me).
So What tells the solenoid to pull in? One of these relays? Can someone tell me what they do. One issue my box had was one of the pins involved in running to the button had been pushed back and was not making contact in the connector when I plugged it in. I pulled it back out(it is the one with a little sideways turn) and ohmed from the pin to the solder joint on the rear of the board. It has continuity. Has anyone replaced this system with a bosch relay. I though I read someone replaced the fuse box and solved their problem. |
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October 17th, 2012, 05:19 AM | #14 |
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Just trace the problem back to the switch using the schematic provided. One relay is for the headlights and the other is for the starter. The starter relay is controlled by the neutral switch and the clutch switch.
If your neutral light comes on then the neutral switch is working. Have you messed with the clutch lever recently? A lot of people have broken the switch trying to lube cables and such. Try connecting the green-yellow wire from the junction box to ground to see if you can start it. The red-black wire at the junction box is the wire from the starter switch. You can test that with a meter to see if the starter switch is providing +12V to the relay.
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October 23rd, 2012, 08:35 AM | #15 | |
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Quote:
My clutch switch is missing in action, I am using a generic lever and a perch from a 72 TS 185. What's my solution boss, is there something to jump at the clutch switch to solve the problem, or do I make a quick jerry rig off the wire at the j box. I really don't want to compromise my harness unnecessarily so I will wait on your next home run. |
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October 23rd, 2012, 11:20 AM | #16 |
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My advice is to dump the generic stuff and go back to OEM. Ebay is the place for reasonable prices on Ninja parts.
Headlight/Turn Signal/Horn switch assembly. - $15.99 Clutch lever and perch - $20.25 Then just plug it all in. .
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October 23rd, 2012, 05:49 PM | #17 | |
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October 23rd, 2012, 06:27 PM | #18 | |
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Here's a wrecked one with most of the parts you need for $30 including the choke lever and cable.
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October 24th, 2012, 04:08 AM | #19 |
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Name: jesse
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if you didnt care for oem, some dont. lots and lots of bikes have the same setup
choke/turn signlas/horn etc on the left. you could use any bikes controls jus match wires where they go. im doing this for a smaller version. the choke cable, i have no fairings so i reach under the tank and adjust the choke by hand. very easy. so i jus took off the choke cable.....jus an idea
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October 25th, 2012, 01:51 PM | #20 | |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
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@papawhellie, if you still want a choke lever, check with the guys running EcoTrons FI conversion kits (they no longer need theirs).
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October 25th, 2012, 04:13 PM | #21 | |
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Quote:
LEVER,CHOKE 131180001024 $5.98 1 $5.98 |
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October 25th, 2012, 06:17 PM | #22 | |
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However, I'm not clear on why it was removed.
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October 25th, 2012, 06:41 PM | #23 |
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I saw his bike and it's simply not there. He has a clutch lever and perch from an entirely different bike and the connector is just disconnected. However, I can start my bike in neutral with or without the clutch lever pulled, so it must not be wired through the actual switch itself and must just pass through along with it. Strange. I don't see why it would be wired through that connector at all.
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October 25th, 2012, 07:02 PM | #24 | |
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October 25th, 2012, 07:04 PM | #25 |
ninjette.org member
Name: David
Location: woodbury
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October 25th, 2012, 07:08 PM | #26 | |
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I suggest that he gets the switch and the rest of if and brings it back to OEM. They sell fancy $50 levers if he is so inclined, but the $10 stock levers work just fine.
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October 25th, 2012, 07:22 PM | #27 | |
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October 25th, 2012, 07:51 PM | #28 |
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You should post some photos of it.
For parts, nobody can usually beat ebay. Just be aware what the OEM new prices are so you don't get burned. I had to buy a new handlebar for my bike and the ebay boys wanted $10-$20 more than ronayers.com for an OEM factory new one. I just finished rebuilding a project Ninja myself. It basically needed a new engine plus some other stuff.
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October 25th, 2012, 08:10 PM | #29 | |
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October 30th, 2012, 08:46 PM | #30 |
ninjette.org member
Name: David
Location: woodbury
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snapped a few shots of the clutch lever switch connector today.I jumped out the outside two wires and completed the circuit.
Looks like black to black with yellow stripe. Picture of the TS 185 clutch perch and a generic black lever I had bought for and enduro/mx bike. I also received my choke lever so now I need to round up a factory perch lever/switch and some screws to put the switch back together. Put my new clutch cable on (thanks czroe) after a 12 mile ride without one. |
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October 30th, 2012, 09:13 PM | #31 |
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Why not just put on the correct OEM clutch lever assembly and call it a day?
Was the bike wrecked which damaged the clutch lever?
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October 30th, 2012, 09:26 PM | #32 |
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Yea it didn't come with one. I missed one on fleabay. If you see that assembly cheap post it for me. I need the perch, switch and all. A little at a time...
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October 30th, 2012, 10:00 PM | #33 |
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Well, if all the associated stuffs are doing well, then what is wrong with the bike. Friend, I will suggest you to take your bike to any mechanic, so that your problem could be fixed properly. Good luck.
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October 31st, 2012, 04:11 AM | #34 |
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I went out and took a picture of mine so you could see how it's supposed to look. you don't have it in the right order. since you already have a choke assembly, it looks like all you really need is the clutch lever perch. that is what the switch attatches to. I'll check ebay and see if I can find 1 later on.
EDIT: Here ya go... 2007 perch and handle $15 - note the missing cable adjusting nut. Here is a 2008 clutch perch and handle with the adjusting nut $17 - but I can't promise an 08 will fit your pregen. I can't tell there is a difference. I do know that the switch is identical. Its just a matter of whether it will fit the cable and bar.
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October 31st, 2012, 06:49 AM | #35 | |
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October 31st, 2012, 07:39 AM | #36 | |
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The hardware store might have them. They are 5mmx25mm-0.8mm thread pitch. Here's one at lowes if you can't find a better one. Its slotted head, but it should still work. Another option is to get it from the dealer. My dealer lets me order online and pick it up in the store to avoid shipping costs. The cost is a little higher than the hardware store, but I know its the right screw. The part number is 220C0525 if you are interested.
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October 31st, 2012, 08:28 PM | #37 |
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