Chain Question

Ralgha · April 18th, 2017, 12:20 PM

I put a new chain on with a rivet type master link. My question is, how do I know if the pins have been flared enough?

Related question, when adjusting the tension, if I match the thread count on the screws on each side of the swing arm, is the wheel guaranteed to be aligned, or should I do the string method to be sure?

cadd · April 18th, 2017, 12:32 PM

String method is most accurate. But I've been lazy and been eyeballing it. I've tried using both the hash marks and tried using counting the number of turns. After I adjusted with these two methods, I checked with the string method. Not even close. It was way off. I have a picture somewhere. I'll post it up when I find it.

Flying · April 18th, 2017, 12:33 PM

Using the threads + eyeballing is more than good enough I think.

Just make sure the studs coming out of the adjusters are the same length.

The chain + rivet should have come with instructions, the rivet is meant to be flared out to a certain diameter to be measured using calipers.

Ralgha · April 18th, 2017, 12:36 PM

Hmm, didn't see any instructions with the chain, the tool said it should be flared .125-.5mm, but does that mean the diameter is that much larger, or the radius is that much larger?

Alex · April 18th, 2017, 12:37 PM

Once you eyeball the threads, then confirm it with the string method once, you're good for the life of the bike. If the thread count stays the same, and the rear wheel is snug against the adjustment screws, the alignment has to stay the same as it was, unless the swingarm or swingarm mount itself has bent over time (which would cause much greater issues). If the string method shows that there is misalignment on the wheels even though the thread count is the same, check that that wheel is snug against those adjusters. Then figure out what the thread difference needs to be between the sides to get the string method to prove alignment. You can use that differential going forward, without needing any string. The hash marks on the side are way too variable to be useful, either in the beginning, or at any time afterwards (they move around too much).

jkv45 · April 18th, 2017, 01:30 PM

I have checked my alignment and made sure it's correct, then punch-marked the bolts on both adjusters at 12:00.

That way if i turn one to 2:00 I just do the same with the other one before checking the tension.

Simplifies things.

Not a Ninja, but you get the idea -

April 18th, 2017, 12:32 PM	#2
cadd cadd cadd cadd Name: Cadd Location: 41°21'13.1"N, 74°41'37.4"W Join Date: Jan 2014 Motorcycle(s): 300 Posts: A lot. MOTM - May '15	String method is most accurate. But I've been lazy and been eyeballing it. I've tried using both the hash marks and tried using counting the number of turns. After I adjusted with these two methods, I checked with the string method. Not even close. It was way off. I have a picture somewhere. I'll post it up when I find it. __________________________________________________ Riding it like I financed it.

April 18th, 2017, 12:37 PM	#5
Alex ninjette.org dude Name: 1 guess :-) Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 7	Once you eyeball the threads, then confirm it with the string method once, you're good for the life of the bike. If the thread count stays the same, and the rear wheel is snug against the adjustment screws, the alignment has to stay the same as it was, unless the swingarm or swingarm mount itself has bent over time (which would cause much greater issues). If the string method shows that there is misalignment on the wheels even though the thread count is the same, check that that wheel is snug against those adjusters. Then figure out what the thread difference needs to be between the sides to get the string method to prove alignment. You can use that differential going forward, without needing any string. The hash marks on the side are way too variable to be useful, either in the beginning, or at any time afterwards (they move around too much). __________________________________________________ Montgomery Street Motorcycle Club / cal24.com / crf250l.org / ninjette.org ninjette.org Terms of Service Shopping for motorcycle parts or equipment? Come here first. The friendliest Ninja 250R/300/400 forum on the internet! (especially Unregistered)

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April 18th, 2017, 12:33 PM	#3
Flying ninjette.org sage Name: - Location: somewhere cold Join Date: Jun 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250 Posts: 596 Blog Entries: 1	Using the threads + eyeballing is more than good enough I think. Just make sure the studs coming out of the adjusters are the same length. The chain + rivet should have come with instructions, the rivet is meant to be flared out to a certain diameter to be measured using calipers.

April 18th, 2017, 12:36 PM	#4
Ralgha ninjette.org sage Name: Kevin Location: Portland, OR Join Date: Oct 2013 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R, Tiger 800 XRT Posts: 828	Hmm, didn't see any instructions with the chain, the tool said it should be flared .125-.5mm, but does that mean the diameter is that much larger, or the radius is that much larger?

April 18th, 2017, 01:30 PM	#6
jkv45 Rev Limiter Name: Jay Location: WI Join Date: Jul 2013 Motorcycle(s): '06 SV650n, '00 Derbi GPR, '64 CA77 Dream 305, '70 CL450 Scrambler, numerous dirt bikes Posts: A lot. MOTM - Jun '18, Oct '16	I have checked my alignment and made sure it's correct, then punch-marked the bolts on both adjusters at 12:00. That way if i turn one to 2:00 I just do the same with the other one before checking the tension. Simplifies things. Not a Ninja, but you get the idea -