Long trips on a 250.

[berserk81]

Originally Posted by Donniejoe

That would be fun. I've got a wedding to attend the last Saturday of October. This is the best time of year. I can map out a pretty good ride if I've got a stopping and starting point if you'll tell me how many hours in the saddle you want. The best roads in NW Arkansas are 16, 74, 23, 123 and 7

Have you got to ride through central Arkansas much? A couple of years back when I was building the strand line for fiber optic cable TV up in Heber Springs, I noticed that hwy 5 was a nice road with some good scenery. Also the road from Bald Knob to Batesville is a nice 4 lane hwy with turning lane, that runs through the hills.

[Donniejoe]

Originally Posted by berserk81

Have you got to ride through central Arkansas much? A couple of years back when I was building the strand line for fiber optic cable TV up in Heber Springs, I noticed that hwy 5 was a nice road with some good scenery. Also the road from Bald Knob to Batesville is a nice 4 lane hwy with turning lane, that runs through the hills.

I lived south of Batesville when I was a kid, have lots of folks there and am very familiar with the area. 5 is great all the way to the north end. The best part is north of Mountain View. The best road in north central Arkansas is Arkansas 341 called Push Mountain Road. If I ever met the engineer who made that road I would kiss him on the mouth. I ain't gay, but he might turn me. It's 25 miles of perfect curves and it is very lightly traveled. It goes from Hwy 14 near the town of Fifty-Six to near the town of Norfork. 14 west from Batesville is good too. 9 is another good road.

If you ride north and west of US 67 in Arkansas you can't go wrong.

[berserk81]

Originally Posted by Donniejoe

I lived south of Batesville when I was a kid, have lots of folks there and am very familiar with the area. 5 is great all the way to the north end. The best part is north of Mountain View. The best road in north central Arkansas is Arkansas 341 called Push Mountain Road. If I ever met the engineer who made that road I would kiss him on the mouth. I ain't gay, but he might turn me. It's 25 miles of perfect curves and it is very lightly traveled. It goes from Hwy 14 near the town of Fifty-Six to near the town of Norfork. 14 west from Batesville is good too. 9 is another good road.

If you ride north and west of US 67 in Arkansas you can't go wrong.

Yeah from all the traveling I do for work I have noticed a lot of nice roads that would be great for motorcycles in Arkansas. I can't wait until I am able to get a bike.

[Numbersix]

Originally Posted by adouglas

I did 2600-odd miles on a trip a few years back. Yes, you can. Report, findings, insights and suggestions are in this thread:

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=27401

Bottom line pointers:

- The bike will perform much like an economy car in terms of acceleration and such.

I'm with you on all your points but this one. Really?

Ninja 250R: HP 32, wet weight 374.9 lbs: power to weight 0.085
Honda Civic: HP 140hp, wet weight 2,756 lbs: power to weight 0.051
Ford Mustang GT: HP 305, wet weight 3,618: power to weight: 0.084

Translation: The bike will perform much like a typical sportscar; not an exotic or supercar, but a production sportscar. People who underestimate the 250R are perhaps used to larger sportbikes, which boast acceleration times that people in supercars pay prices that I pay for houses for.

[moonwalker]

Originally Posted by Numbersix

I'm with you on all your points but this one. Really?

Ninja 250R: HP 32, wet weight 374.9 lbs: power to weight 0.085
Honda Civic: HP 140hp, wet weight 2,756 lbs: power to weight 0.051
Ford Mustang GT: HP 305, wet weight 3,618: power to weight: 0.084

Translation: The bike will perform much like a typical sportscar; not an exotic or supercar, but a production sportscar. People who underestimate the 250R are perhaps used to larger sportbikes, which boast acceleration times that people in supercars pay prices that I pay for houses for.

You should account for rider's weight too, which is a much bigger part of total weight on a motorcycle than driver's in a car. In my case (I'm ~200 lb, fairly big guy) values become 0.55 for Ninja 250R, 0.47 for Honda Civic and 0.080 for Ford Mustang GT, and that is without even the safety gear. Now add also weight of that and some luggage and adouglas is not far from the truth at all.

[Donniejoe]

Originally Posted by moonwalker

You should account for rider's weight too, which is a much bigger part of total weight on a motorcycle than driver's in a car. In my case (I'm ~200 lb, fairly big guy) values become 0.55 for Ninja 250R, 0.47 for Honda Civic and 0.080 for Ford Mustang GT, and that is without even the safety gear. Now add also weight of that and some luggage and adouglas is not far from the truth at all.

I used to weigh 310, 255 now. Trust me, the rider weight makes a big difference.

[berserk81]

Originally Posted by moonwalker

You should account for rider's weight too, which is a much bigger part of total weight on a motorcycle than driver's in a car. In my case (I'm ~200 lb, fairly big guy) values become 0.55 for Ninja 250R, 0.47 for Honda Civic and 0.080 for Ford Mustang GT, and that is without even the safety gear. Now add also weight of that and some luggage and adouglas is not far from the truth at all.

Well if you factor in my weight of 120lbs it still isn't topping 500lbs, so it shouldn't affect power to weight that much I would think. Gearing is another big factor when it comes to the 250 from what I have been reading. With a quick swap of front or rear gear or both, you can either pump up your acceleration, or bring up overall top speed (be it that it make take you some time to reach that top speed).

[moonwalker]

Originally Posted by berserk81

Well if you factor in my weight of 120lbs it still isn't topping 500lbs, so it shouldn't affect power to weight that much I would think.

Less than 0.65 for you. Add to that gear and luggage and you got your power/weight to about the same level as if it was me riding naked. So even in your case it's still closer to "economy" car than "production sportscar". That said, respect your bike's power.

Originally Posted by berserk81

Gearing is another big factor when it comes to the 250 from what I have been reading. With a quick swap of front or rear gear or both, you can either pump up your acceleration, or bring up overall top speed (be it that it make take you some time to reach that top speed).

Well, gearing does affect acceleration and top speed, but it won't affect your engine's power and, therefore, power to weight ratio.

[adouglas]

the performance comment was subjective.

On the highway, when I want to pass a truck, the bike (loaded) performs just like my Fit.

Paper is one thing. The real world is another.

Don't forget wind resistance…

[berserk81]

Originally Posted by moonwalker

Less than 0.65 for you. Add to that gear and luggage and you got your power/weight to about the same level as if it was me riding naked. So even in your case it's still closer to "economy" car than "production sportscar". That said, respect your bike's power.Well, gearing does affect acceleration and top speed, but it won't affect your engine's power and, therefore, power to weight ratio.

I wasn't referring gear ratio to powered to weight at least I don't think I was, if I did my apologies.

[moonwalker]

Originally Posted by berserk81

I wasn't referring gear ratio to powered to weight at least I don't think I was, if I did my apologies.

You have nothing to apologize for as far as I'm concerned. It seems to me changing gear ratio might be a good way to improve gas mileage for the long highway trip, other than that I don't see any advantage to going for higher top speed on public roads.

[caineroad]

I agree what most people said here. My advice is to treat the Ninja as a bicycle (road bike), you wouldn't ride your road bike for 100miles+ unless you have trained and had prepared for it. On a motorcycle the Ninja 250 is the same, you don't have to pedal but your body, arms and legs need to be 'trained' for long journeys, otherwise you would get very tired right after and muscle fatigue the next day, as you need to learn how to stay relax physically and mentally.

This is different from people of course, some may feel less tired. From my experience, if you are just starting out (just got back to motorcycling) you need 2 weeks of riding short to medium rides everyday before your body and muscles adapt to you riding long distances. On the highway, you may think your arms and legs get less work, because you are in 6th gear and cruising. The wind drag and constant focus on the road keeping the bike upright are what's draining.

[Felipe the Ant]

Am I the only one who gets a horrible crotch wedgie after riding in a straight line for a while? I'd say that's the worst part, look into it. The newgen seat is stiff and slopes forward

[moonwalker]

Originally Posted by Felipe the Ant

Am I the only one who gets a horrible crotch wedgie after riding in a straight line for a while? I'd say that's the worst part, look into it. The newgen seat is stiff and slopes forward

I've heard choice of underwear supposed to help with chafing and wedging as well as dealing with sweat, but I cannot claim being well informed on that topic.

[tfkrocks]

Originally Posted by Felipe the Ant

Am I the only one who gets a horrible crotch wedgie after riding in a straight line for a while? I'd say that's the worst part, look into it. The newgen seat is stiff and slopes forward

Originally Posted by moonwalker

I've heard choice of underwear supposed to help with chafing and wedging as well as dealing with sweat, but I cannot claim being well informed on that topic.

boxer briefs > boxers

[Insan3guy]

Originally Posted by moonwalker

I've heard choice of underwear supposed to help with chafing and wedging as well as dealing with sweat, but I cannot claim being well informed on that topic.

If I'm going to be out for more than a couple hours on the bike, I wear under armour boxer briefs. wicks sweat away, doesn't itch, doesn't wrinkle, keeps everything in place. (doesn't have to be a certain brand, just that material)