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Old October 2nd, 2014, 03:36 PM   #1
sarapacman99
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Stator died on my '11 two fiddy

Repair estimates from 3 different shops in my town are all just a hair below $1,000. So I ask them, how does a stator go bad? The mechanics all said that they should last a long while. I live in the deserts of Vegas, but if the heat was the only reason then all the other bike riders here would have issues with their stators too.

My bike is garage-kept and only sees the sun during the day when I leave it to park at work.

The shop I bought the bike from back in 3 years ago (bought the bike new), is checking with Kawasaki if they can cover some of the cost or even get me the part free.

Just ridiculous if you ask me, since I take good care of my bike.

What do you guys think/advice?
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Old October 2nd, 2014, 04:05 PM   #2
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Subbing to see if someone has an idea. While i am investigating getting a new stator for more power, I didn't realize they go bad, especially being relatively new.

Please share whatever you find out.
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Old October 2nd, 2014, 04:11 PM   #3
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the stator cover is i think 5 allen bolts. the stator is 4 allen bolts that are locktited in. the stator has 3 wires and there should be a pickup sensor next to it with two wires. leave the pickup sensor alone. remove the bolts of the stator and remove the stator taking note of alignment (take photos or video) replace with the new stator. make sure when replacing the bolts you put new locktite on. dont start it until the locktite is dry. also be careful to align the rubber wire seal correctly so you dont pinch any wires when putting the cover back on.


the shops that quoted you $1000 are assholes.


the stator can go bad for lots of reasons but if it happened to me i would verify the health of the battery and also the voltage regulator
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Old October 2nd, 2014, 04:13 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alex.s View Post
the stator cover is i think 5 allen bolts. the stator is 4 allen bolts that are locktited in. the stator has 3 wires and there should be a pickup sensor next to it with two wires. leave the pickup sensor alone. remove the bolts of the stator and remove the stator taking note of alignment (take photos or video) replace with the new stator. make sure when replacing the bolts you put new locktite on. dont start it until the locktite is dry. also be careful to align the rubber wire seal correctly so you dont pinch any wires when putting the cover back on.


the shops that quoted you $1000 are assholes.


the stator can go bad for lots of reasons but if it happened to me i would verify the health of the battery and also the voltage regulator
Where do you think I can buy the parts/new stator? The guys at the shop say the part itself costs $500, if that's anywhere true.
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Old October 2nd, 2014, 04:15 PM   #5
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electrosport sells a stator that fits for around $100.
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Old October 2nd, 2014, 04:16 PM   #6
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also, a factory brand new oem stator from bikebandit costs $300. so any way you look at it those guys are trying to ring money out of you. you might as well go have some fun with them and see how high you can get them to raise their estimate and then post a photo of it so we can laugh and make fun of them publicly.
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Old October 2nd, 2014, 04:17 PM   #7
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i just read your signature...

are you some kind of racist or something?
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Old October 2nd, 2014, 04:21 PM   #8
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i just read your signature...

are you some kind of racist or something?
Darn it hell no dude. I'm actually Pacific Islander. All my vehicles are white that's why. I really wasn't thinking bro, I'm sorry. How do I edit that?
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Old October 2nd, 2014, 04:23 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alex.s View Post
electrosport sells a stator that fits for around $100.
When/If you call ElectroSport, you need to mention that you have the '11 bike as it and the '12 need a special connector.

Kyle (Sales Manager) said to me "just remind me that you needed this special connector on the stator, the one from our images, and it will be easy to make."

The ESG111 is $119 and would possibly give you 50W extra power. I say possibly as they haven't had the chance to compare the 2010 stator against the 2011 or 2012 stator, so the table I used is going off old data.
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Old October 2nd, 2014, 04:24 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by sarapacman99 View Post
Darn it hell no dude. I'm actually Pacific Islander. All my vehicles are white that's why. I really wasn't thinking bro, I'm sorry. How do I edit that?
Go to Quick Links (at the top right) > Edit Signature
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Old October 2nd, 2014, 04:27 PM   #11
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Stators go bad... but in a pinch you can keep charging the battery. It buys you a little time at best but can save your track day. ask me how I know....
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Old October 2nd, 2014, 05:00 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sarapacman99 View Post
Darn it hell no dude. I'm actually Pacific Islander. All my vehicles are white that's why. I really wasn't thinking bro, I'm sorry. How do I edit that?
had me worried for half a second. the "white army" is also a bolsheviks thing.
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Old October 2nd, 2014, 07:14 PM   #13
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My experience with stators is from Kawasaki VN750s. On these bikes, it's not if, but when, they will go out, which mine did at around 40,000 miles. And when they do, usually an engine pull is required to replace them.

Apparently, heat has a lot to do with how long they last. A VN750 member from the OP's city had no less than two Kawasaki stators go out over a period of about three years. He built an oil bath to cool the third one he installed and that one is still going strong as far as I know.

Not sure if they have improved the quality of their product, but the electrosport stators, while cheap, didn't have a history of lasting very long in VN750s. Some didn't last six months! The good news is there is a rebuilding service that will rewind your stator to better than factory specs for a fraction of the price. Pretty sure he's cheaper than electrosport, He uses better than OEM materials, and the output exceeds the OEM stator's. Here's a link to his site: http://www.tpe-usa.com/

You send him your old, rebuildable stator and pay for the service ($69.95) and return shipping and get a top quality stator in return.

Has anyone installed a MOSFET regulator/rectifier on their Ninja? I'm no electrical guru, but understand from those that are that it's better than the typical OEM r/r. And if so, does it require any rewiring, or can you get them plug and play?

Last futzed with by flitecontrol; October 2nd, 2014 at 08:03 PM. Reason: Additional info
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Old October 2nd, 2014, 07:20 PM   #14
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i looked at a honda shadow 600 today on which the plug from the reg. rec. to the stator was replaced with electrical tape between the wires. it fried the wires, fried the tape, and probably fried the stator and the RR. check the wiring, look for anything weird.

might be worth replacing your RR and your battery just in case.

DIY. It's easy. plenty of people on here can help you. $1,000 is insane.
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Old October 6th, 2014, 04:24 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NevadaWolf View Post
When/If you call ElectroSport, you need to mention that you have the '11 bike as it and the '12 need a special connector.

Kyle (Sales Manager) said to me "just remind me that you needed this special connector on the stator, the one from our images, and it will be easy to make."

The ESG111 is $119 and would possibly give you 50W extra power. I say possibly as they haven't had the chance to compare the 2010 stator against the 2011 or 2012 stator, so the table I used is going off old data.
Hey Wolf, I just talked to Kyle from ElectroSport. He says he doesn't remember what exact connector my bike needs. He asked if I can send him photos of the connector that I need. My problem here is, I don't have access to get a photo of it right now. Are you able to send me photos you sent them before? I can give you my email address via private message. Thank you!
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Old October 6th, 2014, 04:39 PM   #16
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Old October 6th, 2014, 04:52 PM   #17
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Hurm... Must've deleted my pics from my tablet... Er, in that case

Here's the thread he originally pointed me to
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=180129

and here's the thread I started with my own picture.
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=195737


The connector is located right under the left side cover (black one under the seat). If you pull that off, there's a big white connector there. As far as I can tell, that's it.
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