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Old March 14th, 2015, 09:24 PM   #1
ieathonda
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tail light/turn signal bulb size

What size are the tail/turn signal bulb sizes for the ex250? I have integrated them into the tail light assembly and will be ordering the smoked tail light lenses and wanted to install some led's for them. For those of you wondering, the smoked/clear tail light lenses can be found at:

https://www.xdcycle.com/discount-mot...ht-Lenses.html

I am not affiliated with this company whatsoever. I just want to share to other members where they can find these rare lenses because ive been having trouble myself locating them.
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Old March 15th, 2015, 07:00 AM   #2
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The brake light itself is a 1157 style,


and the turn signals are 1156 style.
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Old March 16th, 2015, 07:43 AM   #3
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thanks for the info and the diagrams!
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Old March 16th, 2015, 02:01 PM   #4
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Np, better to give too much info, than not .
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Old March 17th, 2015, 10:47 AM   #5
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I do have another question for you.. I am using the stock bulbs in the rear and led's for the front turn signals. When i plug it both front led's, all of the signals do not work. The tail lights and rear signals work when i do not plug in the front led's and when i plug in one of the led's. once i plug both led's its as if i blew a fuse and nothing will work until i turn the ignition to off and on again. any idea what it could be? Would a diode mod/flasher relay help fix this problem?
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Old March 17th, 2015, 03:21 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ieathonda View Post
I do have another question for you.. I am using the stock bulbs in the rear and led's for the front turn signals. When i plug it both front led's, all of the signals do not work. The tail lights and rear signals work when i do not plug in the front led's and when i plug in one of the led's. once i plug both led's its as if i blew a fuse and nothing will work until i turn the ignition to off and on again. any idea what it could be? Would a diode mod/flasher relay help fix this problem?
That's exactly it.

The LED flasher relay fixes hyperflashing (a safety feature to indicate a blown bulb) when using low-power LEDs instead of regular bulbs. Most LED turn signals should work properly without a new flasher, they'll just hyperflash because the flasher sees the reduced load as a bad bulb.

The dash indicator for the turn signals actually bridges the left and right sides together. It relies on the inefficiency of the bulbs to let it work properly. The diode kit isolates the two sides from each other and keeps it all working with the low-power LEDs.

FYI, you can install a diode kit on an otherwise stock bike with no ill effects. I really see it as a cheap-out by Kawasaki, and feel everyone should install one to make the circuit proper. At least some of the LED flashers can handle enough current to work with regular bulbs too. In other words, it's possible to do both of these mods ahead of time, so the bike will function identically whether you have LEDs or regular bulbs installed.
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Old March 17th, 2015, 03:28 PM   #7
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The cluster turn signal indicator bulb works by shorting out the left and right side signal circuits to each other. The bulb has a tiny filament so almost no current flows, that keeps both sides from flashing at the same time because it takes several Watts to illuminate the large incandescent bulb filaments in the turn signals. However, it only takes milliwatts for an LED bulb to light up, so that little bulb in the cluster will allow enough current to light up all four turn signal bulbs if they're LED. The different amount of current will also cause the turn signal flasher relay to activate at a different speed, or even not at all. Typically it flashes too fast.

You can fix the no flash/speed flash problem with a fixed-rate flasher relay module, either one with the Kawasaki connector on it such as this:
http://www.cyclegear.com/search/go#?...pe:allproducts

Or using an automotive "heavy duty" flasher relay and short jumper wires to adapt it to the Kawasaki connector. If you go the latter route, get a relay labelled for trailer use. These style flashers use electronic timers to control the flash rate rather than relying on bulb current like ordinary flashers do.

The four-way flash problem is more difficult to fix, at least if you want to keep the instrument cluster bulb working. You can take the bulb out, that will separate the two sides and solve the problem, or you can do a simple modification to the wiring at the socket for that bulb that involves installing two diodes and a bit of minor cutting and splicing. Here's info on the modifications needed: http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/My_LED_...27t_work_right

One last consideration: The OEM bulbs are different for the '06-07 year models, and they draw less current than the '05-back's larger bulbs. The newer bulbs are smaller to fit inside the smaller, more rounded housing. If you use an OEM flasher relay from the incorrect year models your signals will flash either too fast or too slow.
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Old March 17th, 2015, 03:30 PM   #8
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fantastic, thanks for the clarification. I read much about people having hyper flashing and for a second thought i had a freak problem. So that would fix the problem i am also having with the dash indicator then.. I am running a trail tech vapor with the dash kit and noticed that my turn indicator only signals on the left signal and not the right.

I will try the diode mod out and let you guys know how it works out
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Old March 24th, 2015, 09:20 PM   #9
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I got a chance to do the diode mod..

Big problem...

Before I could use the signals and they could be switched on and off independently.

After the diode mod, regardless of which side turn signal I activate, all of the turn signals flash in sync. Also, the dashboard light does not light up anymore as well, regardless of which side turn signals I activate. The turn signals dont behave any different with the dashboard light unplugged or the harness plugged in/unplugged.

But they dont hyperflash anyone.. One bird, one stone

I am using two front led's. I did cut the stock light harness to rig up to the dashboard so I'm not sure that has much to do with it.

Some help would be great... Need to get an inspection as I'm a month over, thanks!
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Old March 24th, 2015, 09:24 PM   #10
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What exactly did you do and mean you wired them up to the dash??
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Old March 25th, 2015, 01:30 PM   #11
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I am using a trail tech vapor dash. I modified the original wiring harness so that the dashboard lights could be transferred to the trail tech vapor.

Did some thinking and I may have touched the ends of the wires in which the two diodes are soldered on. I remember I heat shrunk the whole assembly in one heat shrink sleeve. Doh.

Will update you guys once I am able to put my eyes on it tonight.
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Old March 25th, 2015, 01:54 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ieathonda View Post
I am using a trail tech vapor dash. I modified the original wiring harness so that the dashboard lights could be transferred to the trail tech vapor.

Did some thinking and I may have touched the ends of the wires in which the two diodes are soldered on. I remember I heat shrunk the whole assembly in one heat shrink sleeve. Doh.

Will update you guys once I am able to put my eyes on it tonight.
That would do it.
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Old March 26th, 2015, 09:14 AM   #13
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Sure enough i had a brain fart and heat shrunk the diodes together and shorted the two wires.

But.. I have run into another problem. The indicator on the dash does not light up now with either of the right or left signals activated. If it is of any importance, The indicator light is the LED bulb supplied by trail tech.
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Old March 26th, 2015, 09:53 AM   #14
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Sounds like a polarity issue, makes sure that the indicator leads are properly hooked up. LEDs are polarity sensitive, positive and ground must be hooked up accordingly in order to work.

Verify with multi meter.
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Old March 26th, 2015, 10:00 AM   #15
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If you look at this diagram, you will notice the two diodes, and how they are wired, also the need to ground the bulb also
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Old March 26th, 2015, 10:34 AM   #16
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I flipped the bulb a few times and tried different signaling sequences but it didnt flinch.

That is the same "grey" wire that is grounded correct? I do have it grounded but maybe not in an effective place. I grounded them to where the horn signal is mounted.
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Old March 26th, 2015, 10:52 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ieathonda View Post
I flipped the bulb a few times and tried different signaling sequences but it didnt flinch.

That is the same "grey" wire that is grounded correct? I do have it grounded but maybe not in an effective place. I grounded them to where the horn signal is mounted.
Personally I'd use the OEM ground wire black w/ yellow stripe, and just tap into that for the ground, as well as everything else needing to be grounded.
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Old March 26th, 2015, 12:15 PM   #18
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Ok I will splice into the OEM ground and see how that works out tonight. Thanks for your help so far ghost, it has been invaluable.
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Old March 26th, 2015, 12:19 PM   #19
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Ok I will splice into the OEM ground and see how that works out tonight. Thanks for your help so far ghost, it has been invaluable.
Don't thank me yet, we're not out of the woods yet
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Old March 26th, 2015, 08:59 PM   #20
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Great news... I grounded the wire properly and the dashboard indicator works perfect! Thanks ghost!
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Old March 27th, 2015, 06:48 AM   #21
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Great news... I grounded the wire properly and the dashboard indicator works perfect! Thanks ghost!
Awesome, I like a happy ending
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