DIY: Replacing the Clutch Plates

[treetrimmerguy1977]

Thanks!!

[Jester23]

Thanks a ton for the the writeup! Just an FYI for everyone out there doing this on a 2009 (maybe it's the same on the 2008+ bikes) that there is no U shaped markings on the clutch hub so stop looking for it for almost an hour
Just make sure you line up all the U shaped cut outs on the edge of the friction plates with each other.

[Alex]

Good info, thx!

[davenay67]

That was a pictorial how-to and a half....awesome.

What kinda mileage are folks getting from their 250's before needing new clutch packs..??

[headshrink]

Originally Posted by davenay67

That was a pictorial how-to and a half....awesome.

What kinda mileage are folks getting from their 250's before needing new clutch packs..??

Mine was 20-25K

[alex.s]

it depends on how you use the clutch. i have over 20k miles and my clutch plates look brand new (i also dont hardly use the clutch) however my friends bike has around the same mileage but his clutch plates were completely spent.

[n4mwd]

Nice DIY. I will use it to try to figure out whats wrong with my bike's clutch.

[eddiekay]

Wow.....Who needs an FSM with guys like you on board...excellent + +

[Palero]

Just replaced the plates in my Ninja today, thanks to this guide!

Thanks again.

Note, remember to torque the clutch springs at 78inch pounds, not 77foot pounds like I did.

[headshrink]

Originally Posted by Palero

Just replaced the plates in my Ninja today

LOL, for some reason I thought you were joking about replacing your license plate for a sec...... it's late. night, night.

[kingkang204]

Does anyone with an 08+ know the part number for the paper gasket?

[n4mwd]

look it up on ronayers.com.
Posted via Mobile Device

[kingkang204]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

look it up on ronayers.com.
Posted via Mobile Device

After some digging through Ron Ayers I found it.

For future info its under Engine Cover(s).

Thanks for recommending Ron Ayers! It's about $30 less for the plates than where I was looking.

[n4mwd]

Originally Posted by kingkang204

After some digging through Ron Ayers I found it.

For future info its under Engine Cover(s).

Thanks for recommending Ron Ayers! It's about $30 less for the plates than where I was looking.

The clutch plates are available aftermarket for even less. There are also numerous sources for clutch springs that squeeze a little harder so you can get a little more life out of the existing plates. They are usually about $15 a set.


See if this link works...$53.99

Generally you only replace the fiber plates. The metal ones only get replaced if they are out of spec.

EDIT: Oops, I just realized you have the newgen. The links are to the pregen plates, but they probably have newgen plates as well.

[kingkang204]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

The clutch plates are available aftermarket for even less. There are also numerous sources for clutch springs that squeeze a little harder so you can get a little more life out of the existing plates. They are usually about $15 a set.


See if this link works...$53.99

Generally you only replace the fiber plates. The metal ones only get replaced if they are out of spec.

EDIT: Oops, I just realized you have the newgen. The links are to the pregen plates, but they probably have newgen plates as well.

I read on one of the 250 (sub)forums that the aftermarket plates are of lesser quality than the OEM ones.

[headshrink]

I have a set of plates, gasket, and upgraded springs that I didn't use when I broke my first motor. I would have to double-check, but I'm pretty sure they are the EBC plates. They haven't been installed, but I did pre-soak them in oil (it's been a while, so it's a good idea to do it again though before installing them). I'm not currently putting them up for sale, but might consider it if someone wanted them.... maybe, since I'll eventually need to do mine.

[John D]

How do I know if my springs are weak should I be able to sqeeze them with my hand because I can.Not like collapse them but able to move them I would think by hand no way should I be able to to so

[n4mwd]

The proper way to test them is with a caliper. The springs shrink as the get weaker.

The uncompressed length of OEM springs should not be less than 31.7 mm. Many aftermarket springs are longer to start with.

[John D]

Ok I did all the obove and the pics are awesome so now im putting it back together and the clutch is not turning as im tightening the spring bolts is this a problem i dont want to put it all together and have somthing wrong or will this be ok it turn out the person that had the bike before me didnt have it indexed as you say to do here so i changed that so that why im even messing with it any ideas

[headshrink]

Originally Posted by John D

Ok I did all the obove and the pics are awesome so now im putting it back together and the clutch is not turning as im tightening the spring bolts is this a problem i dont want to put it all together and have somthing wrong or will this be ok it turn out the person that had the bike before me didnt have it indexed as you say to do here so i changed that so that why im even messing with it any ideas

I just wanted to confirm your bike is indeed a pre-gen. It's my understanding that the '08-'12 bikes aren't indexed.

[John D]

Originally Posted by headshrink

I just wanted to confirm your bike is indeed a pre-gen. It's my understanding that the '08-'12 bikes aren't indexed.

yes it a 2003 got it from a guy that had his friend change the clutch and it did not work out so i took it off his hands for a great deal now i need to figure it out cant wait to ride it

[alex.s]

you might want to make a new thread about your problem... makes things easier

[fadownjoo]

My first gear is slipping, is it possible for me to change out just one friction disk for the first gear? Moneys tight =( . If so , which disk is supposed to be first gear?

[n4mwd]

Originally Posted by fadownjoo

My first gear is slipping, is it possible for me to change out just one friction disk for the first gear? Moneys tight =( . If so , which disk is supposed to be first gear?

Its all or nothing. Try adjusting the cable first. Some people just throw in new springs. The aftermarket ones are stronger and can get more out of the plates.

[eksine]

Originally Posted by Purspeed

Clutch Cover Plate TORQUE SPECS: 87 in/lbs.

somehow that doesn't seem right. I watched a youtube video of a guy doing it and he said hand tight, 10-12 lbs I think he said. I thought 10 pounds is way too weak, 15-20 pounds sounds about right. 87 pounds sounds way excessive though, those bolts look weak and might break at that force. I'm probably wrong, but does not sound right

[Alex]

87 in/lbs = 7.25 ft/lbs

[cookiebug79]

FWIW I followed this on Wednesday and everything went flawlessly. THANK YOU for the great write up and all the pictures!

[eksine]

@Purspeed, thank you so much for this DIY. I have a short attention span but somewhow managed to understand this. One thing I noticed on my 2006 is that the direction of the friction plates have the "teeth" biting towards the front. like on a cutoff saw how the teeth bite down like claws onto wood, thats how the teeth on these were facing, except maybe the very last one, but I might have mixed it up so I refaced it to face the same as the rest. It might not matter which way they face but I like them to all face the same way at least and unless I mixed them up I think thats how it came from the factory cause I only have about 6000 miles on this. also how you said the smooth side of the metal plates faces inward, Im pretty sure thats how these were oriented so good call. The only reason I did this because I thought my springs were low but turned out I did it for nothing, but now I know. thanks again!

[Kevin H]

Originally Posted by fadownjoo

My first gear is slipping, is it possible for me to change out just one friction disk for the first gear? Moneys tight =( . If so , which disk is supposed to be first gear?

What you need is a new set of springs. You can check the condition of the plates and discs while your'e in there, but its a safe bet that they are fine if you havent been slipping it for too long.

[abhijitz]

Hi, so when you are referring to edges, you mean the surface, correct? As, one surface side of the metal plate is smooth/roundish other side is flat. On the 08+ manual there is no mention which surface should be placed towards the bike or away from the bike. I had put the flat surface towards the bike when i changed my clutch last year. [And that is how OEM plates were placed]. Is it specifically mentioned in the 2007 manual on the surface orientation?

Also, does the 2007 manual call for any thickness spec for the metal plates?

Originally Posted by Purspeed

The last image is of a new metal plate. You will want all of the "sharp" edges of the new metal plate pointed AWAY from the bike when installing. The "sharp" edge is difficult to see in the picture, but when you see them in person, you will notice that on one side of the disc edge, it is softer than the other side. This is due to the stamping process of manufacturing the metal plates. Why do you want the "sharp" edges pointed outward? Because, theoretically, when the pressure plate pushes on the discs, the "soft" edge will not sheer the hub (housing) edges and be smooth in actuation. Some say that as long as the "sharp" or "soft" edge run in the same direction, you are okay.

The Kawasaki manual states that the sharp edges should be pointed to the outside of the bike.

[ukie]

Should there be any free play (in and out) of the center rod which connects to the clutch cover lever?

[n4mwd]

There is a small amount of free play, but not much. Not sure what the actual measurement is, but I'd guess about 1/16".

[Vince91889]

Need help with my 2008 250r. There is no indexing on the plates. I have aligned all the U shaped clutch plates together and the clutch still won't grab.? What do I do?

[Vince91889]

Originally Posted by Jester23

Thanks a ton for the the writeup! Just an FYI for everyone out there doing this on a 2009 (maybe it's the same on the 2008+ bikes) that there is no U shaped markings on the clutch hub so stop looking for it for almost an hour
Just make sure you line up all the U shaped cut outs on the edge of the friction plates with each other.

Jester what do you mean on the edge of the friction plates?

[n4mwd]

Originally Posted by Vince91889

Need help with my 2008 250r. There is no indexing on the plates. I have aligned all the U shaped clutch plates together and the clutch still won't grab.? What do I do?

You should ask this in the 2008 section.

[Purspeed]

@eksine: My pleasure!
@cookiebug79: Truly glad it worked out for you.

[Purspeed]

Originally Posted by abhijitz

Hi, so when you are referring to edges, you mean the surface, correct? As, one surface side of the metal plate is smooth/roundish other side is flat. On the 08+ manual there is no mention which surface should be placed towards the bike or away from the bike. I had put the flat surface towards the bike when i changed my clutch last year. [And that is how OEM plates were placed]. Is it specifically mentioned in the 2007 manual on the surface orientation?

Also, does the 2007 manual call for any thickness spec for the metal plates?

Hi abjijitz,

Although I realize this information is a bit late for your clutch replacement, I'm answering anyway so others with the same question can benefit, too.

The metal plates are manufactured by "stamping" them out using dies and a hydrolic press. These dies are essentially cookie cutters for metal...in this case, sheet metal. When these parts are stamped out, the outside edges are cut by the die "slamming" down on the sheet metal. Due to this process, one side of the edge will be sharp and if you flip the metal plate to the opposite side, that edge will be slightly rounded.

You can baaaaarely see it in the pics I posted, but in person, you'll certainly see it and feel it. The edge that I'm talking about is the outside edge of the metal plates.

The main issue when stacking the plates along with the friction discs when installing is that the rounded, outside edges are all pointed either away from the bike or towards the bike. What you'll do is simply pick up a metal plate, feel the edge (or look at the edge closely) place it down...then place down a friction plate...then pick up another metal plate, feel the edge and orient it the same way as the first one and so on.

Imagine it like stacking dinner plates. After washing dishes, when you stack your dinner plates, you stack them one way (because that's how they fit together best). In this case, the metal discs are totally flat on both sides, so to figure out how to stack them, look at the outside edges: you want to stack them according to the outside edge, which is a by-product of the stamping process. One edge will be a sharp 90-degree edge, the other will be a dull, ever-so-slightly rounded edge.

In terms of manufacturing spec thickness of the plates, I do not have the information or OEM plates to measure, unfortunately.

Hope that clarifies things a bit for you.

TO EVERYONE: Feel free to post questions in this thread. I'll try to pop in now and again and answer them for you. And if it's a while, at least it'll give others a chance to clear things up when I do post, so it's a win win.