Clutch Engagement Issues HELP!

[peter330]

Hey Guys

So as some of you might know, I have been having some issues with my clutch engagement. I have adjusted my cable countless times and I find that the clutch is not fulling engaging as the friction point is quit high on the lever. I have adjusted the adjuster by the handbar clockwise all the way in, can not be moved closer to the handlebar. I also have adjusted the cable by the motor higher to leave some slack from the bottom of the bolt to the clamp attached to the motor. I feel that the engagement point will creep up higher and higher and I have no more room to adjust the cable to allow the clutch to engage the gear fully. I am starting to worry that the clutch is toast. What can I do? How much are clutch plates? NEED HELP!

[Alex]

/separated to its own thread

[peter330]

Hey Guys

So as some of you might know, I have been having some issues with my clutch engagement. I have adjusted my cable countless times and I find that the clutch is not fulling engaging as the friction point is quit high on the lever. I have adjusted the adjuster by the handbar clockwise all the way in, can not be moved closer to the handlebar. I also have adjusted the cable by the motor higher to leave some slack from the bottom of the bolt to the clamp attached to the motor. I have adjusted it higher each time this would happen and would resolve it temporarilly, until I feel that the engagement point will creep up higher and higher over a span of 2-3days and I have to adjust the cable again to give more slack. I feel there is no more room to adjust the cable to allow the clutch to engage the gear fully. I have also compare my clutch cable slack by the motor with other 250's and mine is significantly longer (bolt to motor). I am starting to worry that the clutch is toast. What can I do? How much are clutch plates? NEED HELP!

[kkim]

as I asked you in a previous post, do you have the proper freeplay at the end of the clutch lever?

some bike history would be very helpful as well as what you've done to the bike just prior to this problem starting.

[peter330]

Originally Posted by kkim

as I asked you in a previous post, do you have the proper freeplay at the end of the clutch lever?

some bike history would be very helpful as well as what you've done to the bike just prior to this problem starting.

The free play would be there, more than 2-3mm recommended but what I've noticed is the freeplay dissapears in which I would need to adjust the cable to get the freeplay back. ATM, no freeplay.

The bike has previous owners but no issues until I had tried doing a burnout front brake held, clutch all the way out, revving high in first gear. I know, was a stupid thing to do, and I have been paying for it ever since. Since then, I noticed the friction point was much higher and it has gone down hill from there.

[kkim]

Have you changed the oil since then? If not, try changing the oil and filter and inspect the oil in the pan for clutch plate friction material. for now, just use some conventional 10-40 motorcycle oil for the change.

If you are adjusting the clutch cable freeplay correctly, it should hold that adjustment w/o changing for many miles.

[peter330]

Originally Posted by kkim

Have you changed the oil since then? If not, try changing the oil and filter and inspect the oil in the pan for clutch plate friction material. for now, just use some conventional 10-40 motorcycle oil for the change.

If you are adjusting the clutch cable freeplay correctly, it should hold that adjustment w/o changing for many miles.

I have changed the oil just not the filer. Couldn't get that sucker out and didnt wanna strip the bolt. Will try again this week. Would the material come out of the filter or the oil itself?

[Momaru]

Originally Posted by peter330

I have changed the oil just not the filer. Couldn't get that sucker out and didnt wanna strip the bolt. Will try again this week. Would the material come out of the filter or the oil itself?

Depends on how big the chunks are, probably very small though. Might wanna check your oil screen too, just for kicks. Also may be worth reading thru some of the oil type threads if you haven't already; the kind of oil you used oil may be helping the excessive slip.

[kkim]

Originally Posted by peter330

I have changed the oil just not the filer. Couldn't get that sucker out and didnt wanna strip the bolt. Will try again this week. Would the material come out of the filter or the oil itself?

both. When you get the filter out, back flush it some gas and catch whatever comes out in a filter using a white cloth. If your clutch plates went, they should have been something caught in the filter.

if it comes down to it, here's an excellent DIY on changing the clutch plates.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=25301

[peter330]

any good sources and prices for clutch plates?

PS thanks for all the help guys, much appreciated!

[peter330]

Originally Posted by kkim

back flush it some gas and catch whatever comes out in a filter using a white cloth. If your clutch plates went, they should have been something caught in the filter.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=25301

What exactly do you mean by backflushing? Do you mean putting some gasoline where the filter use to be when you take it out, to flush the particles out?

[kkim]

after you take the filter out of the bike, hold the oil filter over a drip pan and pour gas/solvent through the oil filter from the inside out and catch whatever the solvent dislodges into a white piece of cloth.

[ScorpionNinja]

Maybe your Clutch Cable is stretched out too much and its time to Replace it???

[randomwalk101]

Can't be stretching that much
Posted via Mobile Device

[randomwalk101]

What year/model? New/used?, any mod on lever, clutch?
Clutch should last a long time.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Alex]

/threads merged

[mrlmd]

You didn't by any chance recently change your oil and put in regular automotive oil with "friction modifiers" instead of motorcycle specific oil? That will make a wet clutch slip.
Is the clutch slipping, or it just won't engage?

[kkim]

from a previous post...

Originally Posted by peter330

Ok guys I did something stupid today. I went for a group ride today and one of my buddies warmed up his tired by skidding his back tires with the front brake in and thought that was a good idea to do before rides on a cold spring day. So after this ride, I tried doing this myself, held the front brake in put some throttle, to the point where the clutch was all the way out with throttle up pretty high 8-9k. I assume there isn't enough torque to do this on the 250 as I got it to spin a few times, but was working the engine way to hard.

So I gave up and rode the bike around to make sure I didn't mess anything up. Well unfortunately, I think I did. The clutch engagement point (friction zone) is now much higher almost at the point where the clutch is fully out. I bought this bike used and sorta got use to where it was before which was closer to the middle of the pull. My question is, where is the friction typically suppose to be and how does one adjust it if needed. I apologize I dont have the user manual so any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

[randomwalk101]

sounds like it's toasted...a new clutch pack is in order

[peter330]

Originally Posted by kkim

after you take the filter out of the bike, hold the oil filter over a drip pan and pour gas/solvent through the oil filter from the inside out and catch whatever the solvent dislodges into a white piece of cloth.

Thanks Kkim, always a wealth of info from you.

Originally Posted by Alex

/threads merged

Sorry for the double post.

Originally Posted by mrlmd

regular automotive oil with "friction modifiers" instead of motorcycle specific oil?

Nope, Mobile1 Motorcycle synthetic oil 10w-40

Originally Posted by randomwalk101

sounds like it's toasted...a new clutch pack is in order

I was hoping it wouldn't come down to this but if it does, any good sources for a clutch pack and how much would I be looking at?

[randomwalk101]

Dealer is where you get 'em. Might want to do some research online if you want to save a couple of dollars
Posted via Mobile Device

[HKr1]

Originally Posted by peter330

I was hoping it wouldn't come down to this but if it does, any good sources for a clutch pack and how much would I be looking at?

Like 12 bucks ea for the fiber's, you need 5. Get some barnett's for the same price.

301-35-10012(5) < barnett p/n

http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/...FRICTIONPLATES

I never had to replace the steel plates on any bike before.....

[peter330]

Yep, I guess I didn't want to believe it but my clutch has to be fried. It's the only obvious explanation. I'm looking to purchase the parts now but im wondering which friction plates and clutch plates. It's been mentioned that you only need friction plates and clutch plates are unnecessary. Any particular reason why this is the case? Does one wear faster than the other? What's the difference between the friction plate and friction clutch?

Will I ONLY need the plates?

Any other possible explanations before I dive into the clutch?

Any difference between 2009 models:
» Ninja 250R (EX250-J9F)
» Ninja 250R (EX250-J9FA)
are the clutch parts the same?

I dunno which one I have. I know I'm a lost cause but hey you can only learn... sometimes the hard way.

Thanks!

[kkim]

did you look at the link I posted earlier?

[peter330]

Originally Posted by kkim

did you look at the link I posted earlier?

Yes I did, that's a great write up, took me a bit to go through everything in detail. Just ordered the frictions plates and clutch plates just in case. Just one final question, with the pull slipping less noticably in lower gears 1, 2, 3, and more so in higher gears 4, 5, 6, is this typical for a slipping clutch? Also slips in the higher RPMs, and not as much from 1-5k.

[Alex]

All that makes sense. Higher RPM's, the engine is making more power and is more likely to force the plates to slip. Also in lower gears, there is more mechanical advantage from the engine's perspective compared to the final drive. I.E. it's easier for the engine to turn the rear wheel in 1st gear than it is in 6th gear. That ease means that it's less likely to slip as less force is being put through the clutch.

[peter330]

Will be changing the clutch and friction plates mid next week when my order arrives from the dealer. Would anyone find a DIY for this useful? I know there is one for the pre new-gens thought making a newgen one beneficial for some.

[Alex]

Absolutely!

[randomwalk101]

Originally Posted by peter330

Will be changing the clutch and friction plates mid next week when my order arrives from the dealer. Would anyone find a DIY for this useful? I know there is one for the pre new-gens thought making a newgen one beneficial for some.

dooo itttttttttttttt

[peter330]

wow so I got the plates in today and decided to order some EBC springs today when I got there just in case they were out of spec. Good news is, after disassembling the clutch I found out the clutch springs were the most out of spec. Bad news is, I gotta wait 2-3 days for them to come in Friction plates out of spec, clutch plates have blue rings near the center of the plate. Aside from my spirited riding and my silly mishap, this thing mustve been ridin HARRDD. Can't trust sellers these days. Still debating on the DIY, got some pics but its all pretty much the same as the pregen.

[Momaru]

Aye, there's no real difference far as I could tell save perhaps the appearance of the friction plates and some cosmetics. Just be glad you don't have to take the hub nut off to swap the clutch (the big nut that's behind the clutch), that thing's a PAIN if you don't have the exact right tool. To give you an idea, it's put on there with ~100ft-lb of torque and I guarantee it's tighter than that now.