April 3rd, 2014, 10:45 AM | #1 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: bob
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Recommend a good torque wrench
What's a good torque wrench that won't break the bank?
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April 3rd, 2014, 10:56 AM | #2 |
ninjette.org dude
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Some suggestions in these:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=87830 http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=17582
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April 3rd, 2014, 11:46 AM | #3 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Jeff
Location: Santa Maria, CA
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I have a 1/2" drive harbor freight cheapy that I've been using for my cars' lug nuts and I used for the rear axle on my 250 when I replaced the chain adjuster and readjusted the chain. It seems to do the job for me. I'm thinking I'll pick up a 3/8" of the same model once I need one, or maybe the 1/4" since there's a lot of overlap between the 3/8 and 1/2.
The 1/2" (20-150 ft/lbs) is $11.99 with a coupon. Click Here. The 3/8" (5-80 ft/lbs) and 1/4" (20-200 in/lbs) are $21.99 right now so I would wait for a coupon on those. A couple torque wrench tips...in auto shop my shop teacher told us to always use impact sockets, not standard sockets, when torquing lug nuts. I have applied this to everything I've been using the 1/2" torque wrench for. If I need an extension I also use an impact extension instead of a standard extension, and use the shortest extension that will get the job done. With click type wrenches I have read not to store it adjusted at a high setting, instead to store it mostly loosened. Don't use your torque wrench as a hammer or a breaker bar. Don't drop it. Treat it like the properly calibrated instrument you hope it is. Most come with a protective case...use it. Another tip...I've read every now and then one of the Harbor Freight torque wrenches will be a dud, and won't click off at the desired torque setting. The recommendation is to test it on something you don't care about before using it for something important. |
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April 3rd, 2014, 11:57 AM | #4 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Mark
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+1 for the Harbor Freight cheapy. Their micrometers are surprisingly accurate as well!
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April 3rd, 2014, 01:56 PM | #5 |
Rev Limiter
Name: Jay
Location: WI
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If you go with a cheap torque wrench, get the size that puts the torque range you want to be most accurate in the middle of its working range - not at the extremes.
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April 3rd, 2014, 02:33 PM | #6 | |
Participant
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Quote:
But what is the rationale for using impact sockets, impact extensions, and as-short-as-possible extensions? |
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April 3rd, 2014, 02:53 PM | #7 | |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Jeff
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Quote:
Either I never asked my auto shop teacher why or I just don't remember his explanation; I just remember those were the instructions. Most vehicles we would just use the torque wrench with a deep impact socket and no extension as long as the lug nuts weren't too deep in the wheel. Edited to add: Maybe it's also because impact sockets are 6pt, that way maybe a student wouldn't accidentally grab a 12pt standard socket and strip somebody's lug nut or slip off and bang knuckles while torquing something down? |
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April 3rd, 2014, 02:55 PM | #8 | |
ninjette.org sage
Name: bob
Location: Earf
Join Date: Apr 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2005 Ninja 250, 2006 SV650N Posts: 642
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Quote:
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April 3rd, 2014, 03:32 PM | #9 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: .
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because extensions twist, especially non impact ones. so you're torquing the extension and not the bolt
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April 3rd, 2014, 04:02 PM | #10 | |
Rev Limiter
Name: Jay
Location: WI
Join Date: Jul 2013 Motorcycle(s): '06 SV650n, '00 Derbi GPR, '64 CA77 Dream 305, '70 CL450 Scrambler, numerous dirt bikes Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
As far as using a short extension or none at all, I think a long extension may alter the readings by making it harder to stay aligned exactly on the center-line of the bolt as you torque it. |
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