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Old March 4th, 2015, 04:45 PM   #1
gantt
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coil and plug wire help

OK guys, I pulled my plug wires off the coil and they broke. I wasn't rough, just seemed brittle. Did I do something wrong? And how am I going to get the rest of the wire out of the coil socket?
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Old March 4th, 2015, 05:03 PM   #2
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OK so it seems I ha e ruined my wires. I only see the coil and wire sold together. Is there anything other than OEM?? I'm seeing them in the $30 range on fleabay. Any member have an extra set to sell?
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Old March 4th, 2015, 05:17 PM   #3
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........... Any member have an extra set to sell?
Let's call for help:
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Old March 4th, 2015, 06:48 PM   #4
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if i remember right, the coil side is a screw-in type connection so you should be able to cut an inch or so off the cable and simply twist it back onto the screw
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Old March 4th, 2015, 08:16 PM   #5
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If the NewGen is the same as PreGen, the ignition wire is replaceable, it's a 7mm stranded core wire, pretty common at most real auto parts store.

In the coil where the wire goes into that a compression type fitting, on the plug boot end it just threads into the wire itself.
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Old March 5th, 2015, 06:15 AM   #6
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so I should be able to reuse the wires? good. I really didn't want to have to buy new right now with only 8k miles
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Old March 5th, 2015, 06:35 AM   #7
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HA Did somebody say COIL? I literally have about 15 SETS of them. Let me know if you "need a pair". heh. (these have the wires attached)
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Old March 5th, 2015, 07:50 AM   #8
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so I should be able to reuse the wires? good. I really didn't want to have to buy new right now with only 8k miles
Yes, that why their made that way. So you can renew the ends at the same time you clean the plug caps.

The wire itself is cheap enough, and you only need about a foot, cut it in half, and your cover for a very long time for renewable the ends. I personally do mine at the start of each season, along with cleaning the caps.


For those whom are scratching their heads,

Quote:
Spark Plug Caps Cleaning


Short explanation: The inside of the hard plastic caps accumulate crud the can short out the spark. This can cause rough running or failure to start. Every time you do any work on the bike: remove them disassemble and clean them and renew the wires or at least the connections.

The long Explanation, Warning engineering information can cause Drowsiness.
The ancient cylinder design of the EX engine dictates that the spark emanate form the center of the combustion chamber. In order to get it there, the plugs had to be located down deep in a well between the cams. This well is a perfect place for dirt and moisture to accumulate. Then because there is no cooling water at this point the metal around the plug runs very hot. Surround this with the large amount of cool metal and you have a recipe for condensation. Further exaggerating the situation we have two leaky coolant connections that drip coolant into the wells. Now K did drill a drain hole between the fins to help (a little) but it often gets plugged up.

The moisture boils off the base of the plug and the vapor condenses on the cool plastic cap and the plug insulator. This moisture forms a easier path for the electrons to ground than jumping the gap at the plug to make a spark. Misfire.

This issue is right up there with Pilot jets as a cause of trouble.


Fixes: Trash the whole plug lead from the coils and replace with a set of molded caps with copper wire. Clean them often certainly after any rain or washing. be sure the drain holes are open. blow the wells clean with compressed air at every opportunity.
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