True Cost of Taking your Ninja to the Track?

[k1prototype]

I've gotten to the point now where I feel I have enough street riding experience to consider further exploring the capabilities of this bike on the track.

I therefore wanted to find out the true cost of what one should consider when getting ready to prepare for next years track riding season. My goal is to start saving now so by the time next year hits, my new hobby doesn't become my financial nightmare.

So here's the scenario:

The Bike: Currently my bike is bone stock besides shimming the carbs.

Here is my short list. Prices and suggestions would definitely be appreciated!

The two main things I know that need to be taken care of is gear and transportation.


1. Trailer - I'm looking for a small trailer that I could fit on the back of a normal 4dr sedan to carry a one or possibly two motorcycles. Also the trailer needs to small enough to where I could put it away against the wall in a 1 car garage with a car and a bike already in the garage (this is the tough part)

2. Gear - Suit: 1 pc or 2 pc? I want to get something that I could continue using once I get to the advance group way down the line. Which suit? back protector? And why? Cost?

Also would my current helmet, gloves, and boots be fine:
http://stores.sportbiketrackgear.com/Detail.bok?no=3097 (Held Thrux Gauntlet Gloves)
http://stores.sportbiketrackgear.com/Detail.bok?no=4436 (Alpinestars Ridge Boots)
(Helmet HJC CL-15) sorry I don't have a link.

3. Modifications to the bike? - Rear spools? frame sliders? Clip ons? Rearsets?, HH pads, Upgraded Brake lines? Brake fluid?

4. Track costs per track event?

Thanks in advance for any info

[ztrack157]

Folding trailers are out there.

Gear a decent suit will run you $500. A Knox (the best) protector is about $200. Your gloves are fine but I would get a different boot with sliders. Sidi B2 are $235

Mods: Spools $30ish, Sliders $120-$200, Clipons $125-$200, Rearsets $240-$500, Pads $50, Lines $100, Stands $200, New Tires

Track days are anywhere from $100 up

Depending on how you shop $2500+/- and your out there. Take out some of the mods and it could be lower

[k1prototype]

Anything specific on the tires? I read through some of the previous posts and it looks like the Bridgestone BT-16 110/70(f) & 150/60(r) is the way to go.

Where could I get these tires?

Also how much of a difference in handling would I see on the track and longevity on the road?

[smcbride11]

Matt's answered most of your questions, but my 2c - definitely get new boots. I've got the Ridge boots and I love them for everyday stuff, but I don't feel like there's much ankle support there at all.

As far as mods, save your money and spend it on gear, then mod after your first few track days if you feel like it. Having said that, though, I feel like rearsets are a worthwhile upgrade that help street positioning also.

[ztrack157]

I can't give you feedback on the BT-16's. But Richard at RBR swears by them. They'll hold up well and handling is greatly improved. On the road they will last awhile but if your going to do frequent track days be ready to replace them (the rear) every couple track days.

[Greg_E]

Just a thought... Having more than one set of rims would allow you to run street tires on the street and track tires on the track. There are also some AGV track oriented boots that are not too much money, but still up around $200.

Also remember that any time you take your main bike to the track, you may bring home a wreck. It's just one of those things that you must be ready for because sometime or another it will hit the pavement. Never ride your bike to a track day, never! It's also a good idea if you have someone that will drive your car and trailer home if you are too tired or too broken to drive. The track days are pretty well controlled, but stuff does happen, and that stuff normally leads to you sliding down the pavement on you back trying not to get run over by the other riders.

[almost40]

Well theres alot of options. Heres my personal opinion on most of these matters.
1 boots - I perfer motocross boots as they offer a little more protection for your ankle and shins. ($200)
2 tires - As Ive said before I LOVE THE BT-16 great for both street and track use. ($250)
3 Leathers - Theres a million choices here but make sure you get leather and I perfer the zip together kind. (2 piece with CE rated pads and armour.) $400-$600
4 Back protector - IS A MUST HAVE. Knox and Bohn makes good stuff. Dont skimp here on price. ($200 AND WORTH EVERY PENNY) You might even consider a chest protector.
5 trailer - it is up to you on this one.
6 Mods - Rearsets and clip-ons (by woodcraft) are great to have and easy to change parts in case of a crash. The rest you can get later as its not needed right away. ($350)
7 Brakes - The ebc HH pads is all you need but they are not required until the speeds really build.

Read a bit here on the boards there are quite a few of us who trackride ALOT and have posted on most of these things.

[k1prototype]

Everyone thanks for all of the information. It helps getting feedback from those of you who race and have factual experience.

I wanted to run a couple options by you guys for advice:

1. suit: I found a combo deal on a speed & strength 1 pc suit with a knox back protector for $719. Is this a good deal?

http://stores.sportbiketrackgear.com/Detail.bok?no=4313

2. Boots. Kevin can you give me some links to some motocross boots that you would recommend? I did some research on the Sidi B2 and they look like a great entry level boot.


3. Trailers: Can anyone provide me anything specific on this price point that would be $600 or less? I found this one but once again wanted to run it by the forum: http://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/mcy/1432210318.html

Also I read some not so great reviews on the folder trailers (mainly safety issues) but would love some more feedback from those who have trailers. I have never had one before so I'm really clueless on this one.

4. Frame sliders - Kevin considering your low speed you had in the beginning of the season; if you could go back, would you also add frame sliders along with the rearsets and clip ons?

[ztrack157]

Suit setup is really decent. Good bang for the buck. Knox is the best and SS makes good suits.

Boots are a preference thing (when it comes to brand) you have to go try them on to be totally happy the first time round.

If your racing run the shogun sliders. The Intuitive style can cause major damage (so can Shogun if they catch and flip the bike after you go down)

As for trailers your kind of screwed having limited space you either need to get a folding trailer or something like this which is rated to 400 pounds

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SINGL...item2556f59110

The also have a wheelie hitch which you put your front wheel in and the rear rolls on the ground. But no idea of reliability.

[andrewexd]

Check out your local forums, there are alot of nice people out there willing to take your bike and split gas money and some people who will let you borrow spare gear so you don't have to spend so much money at once.

[Greg_E]

If a person has a pickup truck, why would they use something like that lift?

I have one of the front wheel dollies, can't get a hitch that it will fit for my car. Needs a 2 inch receiver. Cost me $56 and I'll sell it for the same, but I wouldn't really suggest it for racing transport as it will leave you high and dry if you have a crash

[ztrack157]

More room for more bikes. He has a sedan though and wants a small trailer and sounds like he made his mind up for a folding trailer already.

[k1prototype]

Originally Posted by ztrack157

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SINGL...item2556f59110

Matt any idea if that would be a feasible solution for a car? I am thinking of going with the folder trailer but if I could get something that is a relatively small regular trailer I would prefer that. I guess i'll have to measure my garage and see what to do on that one.

Also do most racers run frame sliders or is this something intended mostly for the street?

[ztrack157]

I've seen it both ways with sliders. I would definitely put spools on the swingarm and get some track plastics you won't care about getting wrecked.

As for the behind trailer it is dependent on your car and the size of the hitch you install. It says: Fits any 2" Class III or IV Receiver. so shop around a little then you'll know if you can go small like this or if you need a slightly Larger trailer.

[almost40]

Im not a fan of the sliders but its up to you on that one. Ive seen them flip bikes when the sliders hit the grass or pavement irregularities. Other track riders like them and swear by them. If you have the xtra cash go ahead they seem to work well in low speed lowsides.
Check motorcyclecloseouts.com for deals on your leathers and boots $700+ for leathers and a back protector isnt too bad but a good set can be found a little cheaper. Buy a quality back protector price be damned.
As far as the boots goes I have a pair of Shift MX boots but the Sidi's are good stuff. My best friend has a pair and loves them. Comfort is the key here. Its hard to go fast if your feet hurt.

[Greg_E]

I had some old Sidi something or other, really nice change from regular footwear and it was nice knowing that my ankles had better protection than work boots could ever hope to offer. Unfortunately too many years of not riding saw the stitching rot away and they were useless the last time I looked at them.

[Apex]

I say don't mod unless you like the track day.

Find someone local that will be going as well, or maybe even rent a truck. My local track day organizer will let you rent leathers. That way you get an idea of what it is like at the track before you invest a ton of money into it.

Level 1 group always takes it easy. Ride with a clear and focused head, you and your bike should be fine.

I'd personally just keep the bike stock, test the waters, then if you like it jump in.

Just stash the cash. If you like the track day and want to continue running track days, then invest the $$$.

[Greg_E]

Don't you have to safety wire all the fasteners and stuff like that for track days? Oil catch lower bodywork? All that safety stuff?

[NorCal_250R]

Suit: Don't buy ANY gear online unless you have tried it on...size is one thing...fit is way more important especially when it comes to one piece suits...AGV makes some really good suits...the SP4 or SP5 is a fully rated top of the line suit with CE armor and speed hump, and can be found for under $400-500
Boots:I can NOT recommend moto-x boots...boots for me are all about feel...I use Oxtar, now called TCS...they rule...and are comfortable....you have to do a lot of shifting on the 250...so make sure the boot will allow you to do that
Tires: BT-0003RS...$200 shipped from swmototires.com 110 front.140 rear. Done.
Add-ons:
Front and rear stands are very handy,
Rear spools allow you to use a rear stand with spool fingers, which is more sturdy
Absolutely get a set of rearsets...I recommend the X-Racer line from ztrack157
Front brake line is a must have...rear line is totally unnecessary $50
Front brake pads are nice to upgrade...the HH help...do it when you do the front line
Another MUST DO: Change the front fork oil to 15W...and upgrade the front springs to .75 or .80kg from either Racetech or Ohlins
Clip-ons are not needed...but nice
Track plastics are great, but assume 3+hours swapping them back and forth...$500
Get the air filter from ztrack157 give you a bit of HP...
Consider a Factory Pro jetkit and full exhaust...that is your FINAL addon, not your first...

[almost40]

If you weigh less than 160lbs theres no need to mess with the front forks. suspension set up is closely tied to your weight. Im short and skinny and never had any complaints about the stock stuff. (that also applys to the brakes) I second the try the leathers on first. You can goto a local shop and try something on, and then find it online at a discount. That goes for leathers and boots. I would get the clip-ons. If you have read some of my previous posts you'll know why. The read stand is really nice to have for a multitude of reasons but not required but recomended.

I figured you were trying to find the minimum requirements, correct me if im wrong.

I see your from Chicago so check with sportbiketracktime.com they havent posted the 2010 dates yet but will soon. Ill be at all the trackdays in Michigan next year. (Gingerman and Grattan) theres also a few in Joliet ill goto. (Autobahn)

The Michigan tracks are not really hard on the brakes and I ran my stock stuff at both tracks until I bumped up to Intermediate.
then I just swapped out the pads.

A rear sprocket 41t or 43t would also be nice to get for the Michigan tracks but not required.

Saftey wire isnt required unless you are running advanced group with sportbiketracktime.
The only thing you need to do to run Intermediate is to swap out your coolant.

Ill be switching bikes all summer but if you find you like the trackdays (which is a no brainer) and you get bummped to I group by the instructors Ill bring the 250 and park the FZ just to run with ya.

[LazinCajun]

If you can't try on suits locally, www.newenough.com has a great return policy for sizing problems.

[Greg_E]

Things have really relaxed. 10+ years ago they wouldn't let you on the track without all the fasteners locked down in some fashion or another. Wire was preferred but nylon lock nuts and split nut lock nuts were accepted. Water has always been the requirement, the normal anti boil anti freeze coolant is far too slippery and toxic to be spilling on the track.

[NorCal_250R]

How can the front forks with stock springs that are only .44kg/mm set for a rider that weighs less than 100lbs and 5W oil be considered okay?

I have had 11 bikes give or take...and damper rod forks typically suck, but as long as you get the rebound (adjusted by the Weight of the oil) and rider sag (set by preload of the spring) you can be comfortable with it.

People who are cheap are setting increasing the preload of the stock springs, but for every mm you preload that is less length of travel you get...I have seen at least one 250 racer bottom out their forks with stock springs, resulting in a front side tuck...

That extra stiffness in the front allowed me to late brake 3 racers last race in one lap...on 1 corner entry...

But...if you want to save $130...cool...

If you can get a nicer suit than this for a better price...good luck...
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...c=2&zmap=18094

[Greg_E]

Now is a good time to buy a suit since everyone is closing out the 2009 models. I just wish they didn't all have the damn hump on the back, don't want or need it for street riding, probably not worth a lot for most trackday riding too.

[k1prototype]

Originally Posted by NorCal_250R

If you can get a nicer suit than this for a better price...good luck...
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...c=2&zmap=18094

http://http://www.kneedraggers.com/details/AGV_Sport_SP6_OnePiece_Leather_Suit--641544.html

Jordan thanks for the link that is definitely (price wise) much more reasonable then what I was thinking I would end up paying out to get a suit. Can you or anyone else provide any crash feedback on the suit?

Originally Posted by almost40

I figured you were trying to find the minimum requirements, correct me if im wrong.

I see your from Chicago so check with sportbiketracktime.com

Kevin, that is exactly what I am looking for. Considering I haven't been to the track (on a bike) before I was trying to get an estimate for total starting costs.

Although I could rent a suit from sportbiketracktime as Mark said, I know I'm going to end up loving track racing already . So considering that case the 80 bucks I'll spend renting a suit could really go towards buying a suit instead.

I'm planning on participating with sportbiketracktime as well so hopefully I'll get a chance to meet you at the track Kevin.

With regards to the fork oil and other mods that Jordan suggested when should I considering changing those? Weight wise I'm on the heaver side at 210 with a gut that I'm trying to get rid of

My only track day experience has been at autobahn in a car but I would love to try that track as well as others on a bike.

[tristatejames]

I have a track day planned for 11/7/09 in New Jersey. I am enrolled as a beginner(sp) and don't know if I should bump it up to a full day. I have been riding for many years (25 years WOW never seemed that long). It's free through NESBA; but I think I am intermediate. Should I do full day? or experience beginner(sp) track day like everyone else?

-05 stock 250

[Beast]

1. Trailer - I'm looking for a small trailer that I could fit on the back of a normal 4dr sedan to carry a one or possibly two motorcycles. Also the trailer needs to small enough to where I could put it away against the wall in a 1 car garage with a car and a bike already in the garage (this is the tough part)

Hey Kareem, I have the "Trailer In A Bag" set up with the dual configuration option and a Condor wheel chock.

http://trailerinabag.com/index.html

The single setup is more of what I think you need which is considerably cheaper. I purchased the dual because I also own a Vespa and if I move/travel, I wanted an easy way for me to take one or both.

As cheesy as the company name sounds, first of all, it's true. This trailer technically fits in specially designed bags they provide for you if you're so inclined to store it that way when you're done using it.

Second, though it may be pricey compared to other options out there this trailer is built with high quality components, is easily put together and disassembled (The first time took 40 minutes, the subsequent times took 15 max). I have no insecurities towing my Ninja with this.

I own an Acura RSX and use a 2" ball. I had the hitch and the tail light wiring installed at a local U-Haul.

Here is a shot from last December:


I don't have anymore detailed picture unfortunately. Hope this helps some!

[k1prototype]

Chris that is exactly what I am looking for!

How much did you end up spending adding in the cost of the trailer & buying / installing the parts from U-haul?

BTW I love your rims and the white/black color scheme of your bike.

[Greg_E]

Yup a Trailer in a bag would be nice but certainly not the cheapest option. I think the single sells for around $900 and the double for a few hundred more.

[rockNroll]

I use an older version of this trailer
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42708

I put a piece of steel channel on it that I got for like $20 at a scrap yard and then mounted this to it.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=97841

It doesn't fold up but it's pretty small. I have some pictures but I don't have the cable thingy to attach my phone to the computer

[Greg_E]

That's what I was thinking of doing is get the smallest HF trailer and some C channel for the tires to fit in. Put three spots for mounting the C channel so that you can go with one or two bikes.

[smcbride11]

Originally Posted by Greg_E

Water has always been the requirement, the normal anti boil anti freeze coolant is far too slippery and toxic to be spilling on the track.

Many track days don't even have a water requirement for the "red" group - beginners, no passing, etc.

Track days at NHIS require only that you tape or remove your lights, mirrors and signals. If you move into more advanced brackets you need to do some of the other stuff, but the beginner group typically doesn't require much of anything to be done.

[Greg_E]

Wow, things have changed a lot and make it a lot easier to ride your bike to the track and go out and have some fun.

[almost40]

Now that we know how much weight were talking about I would swap out the front pads for the EBC HH pads as soon as your stockers are worn out. The brake line would also be a good idea as its cheap and will help a little with stopping distance and alot with feel.
Swapping the fork oil and springs is something you should consider after you have a few trackdays days under your belt but until you start running I-group I wouldnt worry about it.
I have never bottomed out my front end on my 250 even under HEAVY braking but with the additional weight it is a possiblity once the speed builds.

[cspencer12]

Kobe makes a good crash worthy suit for 500.00, I use their gloves and they offer alot of protection for the money.

I wouldn't worry about gearing, and never less on the rear than a 44, we could only pull that on the downhill at Road Atlanta and I weigh 165. and thats running on oxygenated fuel w/ a pipe, 107 mains, thin filter ect.

Just go out and be smooth and have fun, watch others and learn

[almost40]

Granted, changing the rear sprocket should only be done after you have fully modded the bike. In your case, I think I would go with the 43T. It will save you some shifting and let you concentrate more on your lines and being smooth.

[k1prototype]

Originally Posted by cspencer12

Kobe makes a good crash worthy suit for 500.00, I use their gloves and they offer alot of protection for the money.

Chris I was wondering if you might be able to answer this question. I was surprised that the Kobe suit is the only one I have found that uses 1.7mm thick leather. How would that affect the weight/feel of the suit and movement compared to the other 1.2-1.4mm thick suits?

Also can you give me some feedback on the crash worthiness if you have or know anyone with experience?

[cspencer12]

Originally Posted by k1prototype

Chris I was wondering if you might be able to answer this question. I was surprised that the Kobe suit is the only one I have found that uses 1.7mm thick leather. How would that affect the weight/feel of the suit and movement compared to the other 1.2-1.4mm thick suits?

Also can you give me some feedback on the crash worthiness if you have or know anyone with experience?

It will be a little heavier than some others and need a little breakin time just like the gloves, but for the money its 1 of the best in protection at this price point. You will be protected well in a crash. IMHO you would have to spend about a 1000.00 to get equal protection, the choice is yours. Comfort or cost.

[k1prototype]

Personally I would prefer 1.7mm. The more cow between me and the road the better! I am really surprised that for the price and quality of this suit other manufacturer's suits seem really over inflated in terms of price.

[2WheelGuy]

1. Trailer - $350-$2500 A lot of guys use this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90154
You need to do a few mods to make it bike ready or you can go for a Kendon trailer. They are super nice but run about $2500 for a two rail version.

2. Gear - Suit: 1 pc or 2 pc? - $400-$3000 I'd go with a one piece suit (personal preference as I have separate street gear). My current suit is an Alpinestars that sells for $700, I got mine for $600. I plan to replace it with an Arlen Ness suit for about the same cost. You can get Ebay suits for as little as $400 and some of them look ok, or you can spend as much as $3000 for a custom Helmot suit. I've seen many Frank Thomas suits burst at the seams so research any suit before you buy. Most track day providers do not require a back protector but I highly recommend one. They typically cost $50-$300. I have a $60 Teknic that I really like. Your helmet, boots and gloves are fine.

3. Modifications to the bike? - TIRES! I run Bridgestone BT003. They are great. The last set cost me about $325. Never run OEM or "street" type tires at the track.

4. Track costs per track event? Varies by provider/track. I work with Pacific Track Time and our events run from $99 for Reno/Fernley in Nevada to $250 for Laguna Seca. You also need to figure your gas/travel costs getting to the track. Hotel if you are not close by.