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Old April 21st, 2012, 09:08 PM   #441
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Geez Eric, do you have to strip every screw you lay your hands on?
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Old April 21st, 2012, 09:23 PM   #442
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Originally Posted by Mr.E View Post
So I Changed my oil. First, it came out too over filled. Now, the oil drain plug won't screw in. it tightens, then last second loosens. Is it the screw, or the case? Do I have to take it to kawasaki?? Ugh. Bad day. Help please.

EDIT As I was doing this, and trying to figure out why it wouldn't screw, I did notice some metal shavings on my hand. What could this mean? Thanks.
uh oh...seems like you might have stripped the threads (can't tell for sure if on the screw or case, I hope for your sake it's the screw). Get a new screw and try if it'll work, good luck.
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Old April 21st, 2012, 09:35 PM   #443
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Geez Eric, do you have to strip every screw you lay your hands on?



So I guess I'll have to drain the oil all again. Damn. I'll check tomorrow then. Thanks Ethio.
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Old April 22nd, 2012, 06:55 PM   #444
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What a bummer. I'm not too experienced as I've only changed my oil four times so far (I'm at 1400 miles), but I would say that your crush washer is probably bad from overtightening or your drain plug is stripped. The metal shavings could be coming from your washer or a stripped drain plug/bolt. It's also a good idea to invest in a torque wrench so that you know you're tightening the drain plug/bolt to the proper weight. If you can post pics of your drain plug and washer, it would be a bit easier to tell.
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Old April 23rd, 2012, 04:39 PM   #445
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Attached are some pictures. The first is the screw and washer. Screw looks good. Is the washer supposed to be that crushed though? (that was the part facing the bold head). I found out that the washer is where the shavings came from.

The second pic is the female part. Unfortunately, the threads look better towards the back then the front, as you can see in the pic. But I'm not sure if that's normal or if it's not. Im praying for it is normal, and my only problem is the washer. :-\ Ideas, thoughts, suggestions?

Although, it does look a little like the female is stripped a bit. Im not sure how much though.

A friend suggested getting plumber (white tape) and putting it on the screw. How bad of an idea is that?

If my only resort is taking it to kawasaki, how much would it probably run me, or would it be under warrantee? I got the warrantee where even if the bike is modded and what not, it's still covered. Thanks.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg OilProblem2.jpg (38.3 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg Oilproblem.jpg (39.8 KB, 16 views)
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Old April 23rd, 2012, 04:43 PM   #446
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You can use teflon tape. Also, you can use a helicoil to fix the issue.
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Old April 23rd, 2012, 04:52 PM   #447
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You can use teflon tape. Also, you can use a helicoil to fix the issue.
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For some reason when I google, a lot of people go against Helicoil. Im not too sure as to what it is, but it seems like a rethreaded? Would this cause metal shavings to get into the engine?
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Old April 23rd, 2012, 04:54 PM   #448
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A lot of people don't know how to properly install a helicoil.

I would make sure you get all of the metal shavings out of your engine regardless of installing a helicoil or not. I hear motors run better on oil than metal shavings.
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Old April 23rd, 2012, 04:56 PM   #449
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A lot of people don't know how to properly install a helicoil.
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This alone scares me. :-( Lol. I am prone to messing things up. Especially if they screw. (A pro screw stripper.)
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Old April 23rd, 2012, 04:57 PM   #450
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You over tighten that bolt. Did you use a torque wrench ? Looks like the oil filter cover (the female part in your picture) was stripped. I think you should buy the replacement. It is the 14091 part.
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Old April 23rd, 2012, 05:04 PM   #451
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You over tighten that bolt. Did you use a torque wrench ? Looks like the oil filter cover (the female part in your picture) was stripped. I think you should buy the replacement. It is the 14091 part.
No. :-\ and 14 pound so much more then what I thought apparently. Do you think kawasaki would cost around that price?
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Old April 23rd, 2012, 05:08 PM   #452
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Would something as such be useful??
(Mainly the rubber one being talked of)
Quote:
The oversize plug is basically a tapered tap, it might
work but make sure it does not enter the drain hole
too far. Compare it to your old plug to make sure.
There are also some rubber type plugs that you could
check out at an auto store. Some people have had success
with those.
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Old April 23rd, 2012, 05:11 PM   #453
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Call 'em up with that part number (full # is 14091-1575). They can be a little more expensive but the online sites will charge you $8 for shipping.
Here is another one, might be cheaper. Look around, you may get better price.
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Old April 24th, 2012, 04:40 AM   #454
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Originally Posted by capriccio View Post
Call 'em up with that part number (full # is 14091-1575). They can be a little more expensive but the online sites will charge you $8 for shipping.
Here is another one, might be cheaper. Look around, you may get better price.
Maybe eBay also but that is how I would fix it and then buy yourself a torque wrench.
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Old April 24th, 2012, 04:58 PM   #455
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And if any of you ever buy oil filter, don't buy the Fram one. I did. I thought it is just an oil filter, what could be bad ? So I bought this Fram filter for $5 something. Well, the O-ring was bad. It was not exactly the O shape but more like distorted rectangle. And it did not fit very well to the oil filter cover. I just couldn't fit the damn thing in. Arghhhh.

Anyway, save yourself some time and buy the K&N. Here is a picture for comparison. On the left was my old K&N O-ring and on the right is the Fram.

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Old May 12th, 2012, 10:06 AM   #456
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****!!! - You see this photo: http://itstar.co.uk/oi.jpg

I accidentally unscrewed the screw in the top right corner in that image - it's identical to the oil draining screw. I tried to screw it back in but I stripped the thread inside, so now it turns freely endlessly when I try to screw it in

What do I do? - Is it safe to ride or will it pop out and all the oil will leak out? -- Will Kawasaki charge me an arm and a leg to rethread the hole?

Also no matter what I tried I could not remove the oil filter, so I just put fresh oil in and will take to kawasaki - The bike has done just over 4,000 miles and is 2 years old.
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Old May 12th, 2012, 03:34 PM   #457
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****!!! - You see this photo: http://itstar.co.uk/oi.jpg

I accidentally unscrewed the screw in the top right corner in that image - it's identical to the oil draining screw. I tried to screw it back in but I stripped the thread inside, so now it turns freely endlessly when I try to screw it in

What do I do? - Is it safe to ride or will it pop out and all the oil will leak out? -- Will Kawasaki charge me an arm and a leg to rethread the hole?

Also no matter what I tried I could not remove the oil filter, so I just put fresh oil in and will take to kawasaki - The bike has done just over 4,000 miles and is 2 years old.
I think that screw is the old drain plug?

I just did mine for the first time today. The filter was causing me problems too. I wound up having to get a friend to pull the wrench while I held the socket head in place. It will come off, just need to try harder or get some extra leverage.

I didn't have a torque wrench on hand, downsides to living from a dorm right now. But you all must be using a ton of pressure on the plugs to strip it! I got mine pretty snug and felt like I would have to try pretty hard to over-tighten it where I'd strip anything.
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Old May 12th, 2012, 05:29 PM   #458
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Quote:
Originally Posted by capriccio View Post
And if any of you ever buy oil filter, don't buy the Fram one. I did. I thought it is just an oil filter, what could be bad ? So I bought this Fram filter for $5 something. Well, the O-ring was bad. It was not exactly the O shape but more like distorted rectangle. And it did not fit very well to the oil filter cover. I just couldn't fit the damn thing in. Arghhhh.

Anyway, save yourself some time and buy the K&N. Here is a picture for comparison. On the left was my old K&N O-ring and on the right is the Fram.

There is nothing wrong with that o-ring. Your K&N o-ring looked similar when it was fresh out of the package. They expand after use and exposure to oil. I have used Kawasaki, K&N, and Fram so far in two different Ninjettes. Never an issue.

Also, I have never seen a crush washer so deformed. That is a sign of severe over-tightening of your drain plug. Finger tighten the drain plug and then snug it up with a box wrench a quarter turn.
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Old May 13th, 2012, 04:56 AM   #459
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Quote:
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I think that screw is the old drain plug?

I just did mine for the first time today. The filter was causing me problems too. I wound up having to get a friend to pull the wrench while I held the socket head in place. It will come off, just need to try harder or get some extra leverage.

I didn't have a torque wrench on hand, downsides to living from a dorm right now. But you all must be using a ton of pressure on the plugs to strip it! I got mine pretty snug and felt like I would have to try pretty hard to over-tighten it where I'd strip anything.
Yes, it's the old drain plug - it doesn't seem to leak but it spins with next to no resistance when I try to tighten it - the thread is completely stripped. I spoke to kawasaki and they said they will try to put a helicoil in there - I'm taking the bike there on Thursday. Hope the bolt makes the journey and not fly out and leak oil everywhere!

I did put some pressure on it with my little wrench, but a lot less than the pressure I put trying to undo the oil filter! - So strange that the comparatively little pressure was enough to strip the thread of the unused drain plug :/
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Old May 24th, 2012, 09:15 AM   #460
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Really helpful DIY ! thanks for posting Installed a genuine Kawasaki oil filter and uhmm.. im not sure about the oil because when it was straight up it took a slightly more than 1.7L .. kinda 1.8 to get a slightly less than the line.. so I'm not quite sure about that but the rest was easy
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Old May 24th, 2012, 09:22 AM   #461
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Really helpful DIY ! thanks for posting Installed a genuine Kawasaki oil filter and uhmm.. im not sure about the oil because when it was straight up it took a slightly more than 1.7L .. kinda 1.8 to get a slightly less than the line.. so I'm not quite sure about that but the rest was easy
When I did my oil change it was more around 1.8L for me too, it's fine.
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Old May 24th, 2012, 09:34 AM   #462
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LOl phew.. now my mind is a lot safer :P ! and I'm off to ride ! haha later buddies take care and drive safe
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Old May 27th, 2012, 12:58 PM   #463
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the dealership mechanic told me not to run full synthetic becuase it would cause the clutch to slip... He said to run a synthetic blend...? id assume any 5-40 would work?
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Old May 27th, 2012, 02:45 PM   #464
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the dealership mechanic told me not to run full synthetic becuase it would cause the clutch to slip... He said to run a synthetic blend...? id assume any 5-40 would work?
Rotella T6 5w-40 synthetic in the blue jug is great. Stay away from energy conserving oils. The mechanic's advice is well intentioned, but also incorrect.
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Old May 27th, 2012, 03:54 PM   #465
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the dealership mechanic told me not to run full synthetic becuase it would cause the clutch to slip... He said to run a synthetic blend...? id assume any 5-40 would work?
Myself and many of us here run full synthetics without any issues. It's not a huge difference though. If you want to run a synthetic blend, Lucas makes a good oil.
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Old May 29th, 2012, 04:50 AM   #466
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Quote:
Originally Posted by capriccio View Post
You over tighten that bolt. Did you use a torque wrench ? Looks like the oil filter cover (the female part in your picture) was stripped. I think you should buy the replacement. It is the 14091 part.
This is the bolt/thread I stripped:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5lh7m95jg0qpdh1/IMG_0379.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/38nk7c63kfxij6f/IMG_0380.jpg



You can see it's slowly leaking oil and leaving a little pool under the bike.

I spoke to Kawasaki and they quoted me around £100 ($150) labour and a helicoil but said there is only 1 chance to get it right and it's not guaranteed, if they can't put a helicoil I'm looking at around over £2000 ($3000) in parts and labour for a new engine casing
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Old June 1st, 2012, 10:23 PM   #467
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can i use non synthetic castro motorcycle 10-40 for my first 500 mile change?
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Old June 2nd, 2012, 06:01 AM   #468
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can i use non synthetic castro motorcycle 10-40 for my first 500 mile change?
As long as it meets the service requirements in the owner's manual. Stay away from energy conserving oils because they cause clutch slippage.
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Old September 15th, 2012, 01:43 PM   #469
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A great video of the oil change process by @Jiggles

Link to original page on YouTube.

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Old September 24th, 2012, 01:18 PM   #470
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how does one dispose of the used oil? The first oil change i did with a buddy (he basically did it for me and i was there to learn) he had this pan that also served as a container that he would take to an oil disposement place. @Jiggles what did you do with your oil that was in the pan?
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Old September 24th, 2012, 01:20 PM   #471
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how does one dispose of the used oil? The first oil change i did with a buddy (he basically did it for me and i was there to learn) he had this pan that also served as a container that he would take to an oil disposement place. @Jiggles what did you do with your oil that was in the pan?
Take it to an auto parts store near you for recycling.
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Old September 24th, 2012, 01:27 PM   #472
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I dump it into an empty oil container and dispose of it
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Old September 24th, 2012, 01:33 PM   #473
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Old September 24th, 2012, 01:43 PM   #474
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No. No, you can't.
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Old September 24th, 2012, 01:44 PM   #475
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Old September 24th, 2012, 01:45 PM   #476
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I dump it into an empty oil container and dispose of it
In the trash? Keep that in mind next time you slide in a corner while following the trash truck.
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Old September 24th, 2012, 01:45 PM   #477
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This is the bolt/thread I stripped:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5lh7m95jg0qpdh1/IMG_0379.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/38nk7c63kfxij6f/IMG_0380.jpg



You can see it's slowly leaking oil and leaving a little pool under the bike.

I spoke to Kawasaki and they quoted me around £100 ($150) labour and a helicoil but said there is only 1 chance to get it right and it's not guaranteed, if they can't put a helicoil I'm looking at around over £2000 ($3000) in parts and labour for a new engine casing
if it is just stripped out where the bolt threads in worst comes to worst, get some teflon tape and tape the hell out of the last so many cm of the threads on the bolt, get the bolt started where there is no tape and hope that the tape makes a seal, worth trying over 3k for repair. Not sure how much extra room there is around the bolt hole, but if there is a few cm > original thread depth you could just re tap to a larger bolt size.

I would try all of these things before dumping 3k into it
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Old September 24th, 2012, 01:46 PM   #478
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Sarcasm obviously.
Just checking. Some of these new kids might get their asses beat by their parents for killing the lawn.
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Old September 24th, 2012, 01:48 PM   #479
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Old September 24th, 2012, 01:50 PM   #480
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In the trash? Keep that in mind next time you slide in a corner while following the trash truck.
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