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Old February 14th, 2015, 07:56 PM   #1
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FZR250R 3LN3 Restoration

Thought I'd make a separate thread for this.

Bike arrived 11am today.







This scared me for a bit, but it was just me spilling fuel while filling



Decent spares list plus air filter which is unobtanium/expensive



New battery, some fuel, and a minute or two of cranking and she came to life. Was a little dry in the oil department, definitely sounded like a lawnmower until I topped up the oil. Has a leaking coolant hose, engine is a bit tappy. Have a new cam chain & tensioner in the box of crap that came with it. A full set of spare fairings which is always nice.

Link to original page on YouTube.

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Old February 15th, 2015, 11:04 AM   #2
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Old February 15th, 2015, 11:41 AM   #3
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yeah buddy! but it sounds like she needs her valves adjusted
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Old February 15th, 2015, 12:54 PM   #4
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Yeah it's on the list.

Oh and by the way, the frame is a 3LN3 frame, the engine is a 3LN7 according to the serial... they sold maybe ~1000 of them only in Japan. Other bike is a 3LN6 with only 9000 units produced
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Old February 15th, 2015, 01:28 PM   #5
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What year is that? The looks of it are definitely ahead of its time.
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Old February 15th, 2015, 04:49 PM   #6
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Old February 15th, 2015, 11:31 PM   #7
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What year is that? The looks of it are definitely ahead of its time.
3LN3 is 1990 model, 3LN7 is 1994.
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Old February 16th, 2015, 01:50 AM   #8
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Today's progress

Stripped fairings front & rear





Identified fuel leak location



Relocated/tightened clamp on coolant hose/pipe - no longer hissing/leaking



Other finds:

Headlight switch block has been modified to be always-on



Seat doesn't fit properly. Battery too tall



Checked the EXUP and it's actually working with the new battery... though it does sound a bit sad. I'll try some cable lube

Link to original page on YouTube.

Oooooh! An unplugged connector! What does this belong to? All the lights work so it can't be that.



This last one I need help with. I think I have too many parts on this choke assembly. It appears that the proper choke mount is already on the frame.



This week's tasks

Change oil, filter & coolant - waiting on parts to arrive (oil filter and drain pan)
Change spark plugs
Valve clearance check/adjustment... definitely sounds out of spec (lawnmower spec!)

Since I have a mechanic not 50m down the road, I may get him to do the valve clearances for me since I lack the time.

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Old February 17th, 2015, 05:43 AM   #9
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Okay... Got the oil filter in the mail today, so I did an oil & coolant change



Old oil was not runny, but it's a bit dark.



Mounted choke assembly



I retrieved only ~750ml's of coolant from the bike, most of that was from the overflow bottle. Very little came out of the radiator.

I almost used all the coolant filling up the radiator, and also filled the overflow bottle half way. I did drain the radiator first, it didn't suck anything from the overflow bottle, which is worrying. Not a big issue now that the radiator is full.

I also discovered my side stand switch is not bolted on, it's just sitting there held on by grime. It fell out of place during the oil change

The engine is still making godawful noise... also doubt the exhaust will pass a blueslip so going to have to use the 3LN6 one.

Engine sounds bloody awful... I've had a few suggestions to check the bolts on the headers so I will do that.

Link to original page on YouTube.

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Old February 17th, 2015, 11:53 AM   #10
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Old oil was not runny, but it's a bit dark.
Might have been a good idea to have an oil analysis run on the old oil to get an idea of the engine's health.
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Old February 17th, 2015, 12:17 PM   #11
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Old February 17th, 2015, 12:37 PM   #12
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God dang I want an inline 4 250! Why don't they make them anymore!!

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Old February 17th, 2015, 02:22 PM   #13
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Quote:
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God dang I want an inline 4 250! Why don't they make them anymore!!

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$1500 AUD. I didn't haggle on the price... I should have
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Old February 17th, 2015, 03:22 PM   #14
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$1500 AUD. I didn't haggle on the price... I should have

Always haggle.

However, that's still $1,172 USD which is still a great deal.

I'd pay that for that bike.
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Old February 18th, 2015, 12:32 AM   #15
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I tightened up the headers. Lawnmower sound = dead. Bike is a lot quieter. Still rattly while idling. Rode it to get fuel, it's smooth. Handlebars need adjustment but the bike tracks straight. No odd vibrations or noises, and the rattle disappears above 6k rpm or so. Exhaust still sounds crappy. Probably right about missing on one cylinder.

The mechanic should have an easy time. To do the valve clearances they need to take off the cams and chain/tensioner, I have the rocker gasket and the head gasket so no issues with that. Plug change should be simple for them.

Idle is still high so I'll have them look at that.

The best bit? It didn't flood, and there are no flat spots. Guess who doesn't need to mess with carbs?
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Old February 18th, 2015, 07:55 AM   #16
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^^ good deal, man I want to ride one of those
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Old February 21st, 2015, 09:19 PM   #17
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I picked up a new instrument cluster as well



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Old February 26th, 2015, 12:40 AM   #18
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Today's game, odd one out! F%&$#!!!!

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Old February 28th, 2015, 12:07 AM   #19
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Changed the cam chain tensioner, but the bastard is still noisy. Changing the chain is next on the to do list

Old tensioner has bent springs

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Old March 1st, 2015, 07:44 PM   #20
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JB Weld to the rescue

Registered the bike and rode to work.

Last on the to-do list is cam chain and valve clearances. Cam chain is a big job and requires the cases to be split

Last futzed with by Linkin; March 1st, 2015 at 08:51 PM.
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Old March 1st, 2015, 08:03 PM   #21
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JB Weld is the business.
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Old March 1st, 2015, 10:46 PM   #22
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are the head bolts stretch bolts? you might want to replace them
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Old March 1st, 2015, 11:20 PM   #23
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are the head bolts stretch bolts? you might want to replace them
I believe the bolts are on the engine block, and just have nuts to hold them on
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Old March 16th, 2015, 03:45 AM   #24
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Cam Chain 101 - Yamaha FZR250R

Plenty of access with the carbs, airbox, radiator and rubber engine cover gone. Had no issues there







This is what your timing marks should look like. The T is under the stator cover. The dimples are on the cams and cam guides. When these all line up, you are at TDC for Cyl #1 on the compression stroke - no valves open







Your cam chain should have 6 links between the cam sprocket teeth that are facing "upward" - in the sense of where the engine is pointing.



EMGO chain breaker kit cam in very handy. Would not have been able to do this job without it.



Pin out of the new chain



Wiring up the old chain to keep it in place. Cam chain tensioner is out at this stage (not that it mattered, because the chain was rooted. Stretched by 5mm)



Old chain apart



After this we removed the cam guides, cams, joined the new chain on & fed the old one out, got the crank to the T mark, replaced cams, & joined the chain

This is what we ended up using to hold the pin in place. Zip tie on the pin, which ended up on the rod pushing the pin in.



New chain in but slack, still has 6 links between the cam sprocket pointing upwards (in relation to engine) - tensioner out



Testing after the job is done. Obviously rotated the engine manually beforehand to ensure nothing was binding, and idled it for a while.

Link to original page on YouTube.

And of course, celebration of a job well done afterwards!

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Old March 18th, 2015, 11:04 PM   #25
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Old March 20th, 2015, 01:12 AM   #26
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Moar pics







Also replaced the needles and emulsion tubes in my carbs. This has halved my fuel usage. I did 106.2KM and used 4.83L - that's 21.987KM/L or 51.74 mi/gal (MPG)
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Old March 20th, 2015, 01:50 AM   #27
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My jealousy is rampant. A trip to oz is in order.
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Old March 20th, 2015, 03:32 AM   #28
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My jealousy is rampant. A trip to oz is in order.
I want to visit the US one day and find some good shooting ranges to have a go of some select fire rifles / machine guns!

Firearms laws here in oz are a bit ****. My license allows me to purchase/own rimfire/centrefire bolt action, lever action, and pump action rifles. But nothing that's a "military design" so no AR type rifles.

Don't even ask about semi autos or pump action shotguns, or select fire rifles. It's too much money and effort to become licensed, as the government prefers. It's a privilege and not a right here, privileges can be revoked at any time...

Handgun licenses are massive pain in the ass as well
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Old March 23rd, 2015, 06:29 AM   #29
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Man this thread keeps me wishing I could get my hands on one of these old 1/4 liter sport bikes.
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Old March 23rd, 2015, 01:40 PM   #30
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By the way, this is me at eastern creek raceway in Sydney

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Old March 28th, 2015, 03:55 PM   #31
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Alright Ninjetters... got a problem: Boiling coolant out the overflow bottle/escape tube.

Testing with the bike on the stand, high revs = more bubbles/boiling.

Cooling system was flushed 3 weeks ago
Thermostat was replaced
Checked water pump / impeller - working ok

In my mind that only leaves a few things. Cracked/warped head or failed head gasket (not catastrophic failure though)

Here's the thing though, the bike runs fine, not low on power at all, and it does not overheat... not until the coolant level gets low from the boiling. Fill it up and its fine again.

Opinions?
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Old March 28th, 2015, 06:38 PM   #32
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Radiator cap not sealing or holding adequate pressure would be the first thing I would check.
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Old March 28th, 2015, 07:11 PM   #33
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Radiator cap not sealing or holding adequate pressure would be the first thing I would check.
It's been replaced
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Old March 28th, 2015, 08:45 PM   #34
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You are using coolant and water, not just straight water, right?
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Old March 28th, 2015, 09:29 PM   #35
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Straight water no. Used premix and added some water friday night
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Old March 28th, 2015, 10:44 PM   #36
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could be the radiator is clogged, or the cooling system has bubbles in it? maybe the water pump has damage and isn't pumping adequately. when it was flushed, did it flow well through the engine? sometimes crap builds up and can form an obstruction. blasting it out with pressurized water can fix it if thats the case
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Old March 29th, 2015, 04:51 AM   #37
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Does it have a working radiator fan? If it's that hot, the fan should be running.

Does it have a temp gauge? If so, is it reading in the red when this happens?
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Old March 29th, 2015, 06:25 AM   #38
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Temp gauge and radiator fan are fine. But the coolant is boiling out the overflow bottle, eventually the level drops enough for the bike to get rather hot (not into red zone on temp gauge but very close)

I think it is a minor head gasket failure, letting compression gases from cylinder into the cooling system
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Old March 29th, 2015, 07:05 AM   #39
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Old March 29th, 2015, 07:09 AM   #40
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I think: That the overheating problem is due to lack of coolant circulation. Because it isn't circulating the portion of the coolant in the engine's cylinder head overheats and boils during operation.

(B.T.W. This is probably why the prior owner wired the radiator fan to run constantly. The failure that is causing the lack of coolant circulation might have developed slowly so running the fan constantly might have helped for a while.)

Two things could be causing this:
1. failure of the thermostat to open (or failure to open completely).

2. failure of the water pump to circulate a sufficient amount of the coolant. (and, if the water pump is failing it could be at least a partial cause of the "noisy engine" problem you've been troubleshooting)

Be careful with this situation, repeated overheating of the cylinder jacket and cylinder head can warp them. After that happens you'll have a hard time rebuilding the engine.
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