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Old June 13th, 2022, 06:51 PM   #1
Deezg
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All back together 🙄

Got the bike all back together over the weekend and it fired right up. Ran like a top. Actually surprising how quick it was.... key word... was.... rode like brand new for 2 days and now its not sparking on cylinder one. Swapped coils from number 2 to test the coil no change. Assuming the cdi isnt triggering the coil. Ive traced all the wires to the best of my knowledge and found no issues i can see. Any way test the cdi box before just buying another? I tested the volts on both red coil wires at 12.4v with ignition on and not cranking. Not sure how to test the trigger wires though. Any help would be amazing
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Old June 13th, 2022, 06:53 PM   #2
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Ive ruled out plugs and coils. Have ac current when cranking from the pickup so its working. Battery charged and was around 13v or so when it was running. Tested before riding. Im stumped. Only thing i can see being bad is either a wire i didn't find or the cdi
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Old June 14th, 2022, 12:27 AM   #3
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Did you measure resistance from end-to-end of coil trigger wires (blk & grn) and verified wires are continuous with no breaks from ignitor to coil? Just eyeballing wires doesn't confirm it can actually conduct electricity.

You can connect solenoid light to coil wires to see if you're getting triggering signal from ignitor: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FEN84M/
Test on good side 1st as control test. Also works for fuel-injector connectors.

Even easier to use oscilloscope on trigger line at coil terminal to know for sure:


Also do test by disconnecting dash connector. Bad tach may actually short black coil wire and prevent coil from firing.
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Old June 14th, 2022, 07:36 AM   #4
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Unfortunately the bike was naked when i bought it and the PO wired in aftermarket lights and a gauge cluster. I can get an unmolested wire harness for $40. Possibly swap it and start fresh?
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Old June 14th, 2022, 09:08 AM   #5
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There's also risk that used harness will also have some bad wires as well. I picked one up for free that also had bad black coil-trigger wire to harvest connectors for EFI upgrade. So used harness will also need to be tested and verified good before using. In which case, you might as well test yours.

Multimeter is cheaper than harness, faster results: HF - multimeter

How to use multimeter to measure wire resistance:
https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials...multimeter/all

Again, simple test to see if tach is interfering is to just unplug it. Then check for spark on #1. Depending upon how it's connected, might even be damaging to ignitor.
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Old June 14th, 2022, 10:23 AM   #6
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I did test the resistance for the black wire. Got a low reading but not an open circuit. Not exactly sure how much it should be reading though. Think it was somewhere around 0.3 or so but the lowest my multimeter goes is 200ohms. Very good point about the used harness. Guess my next step is to track down the tach wires/plug and go from there. At $5.20ish a gallon for gas i NEED this bike to run asap ���� My daily is a 88 ttop cutlass with a 385 stroker �� gets around 11mpg ��
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Old June 14th, 2022, 01:18 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deezg View Post
My daily is a 88 ttop cutlass...
It's things like that that make me miss the Midwest. We don't have any cared-for G bodies w/ built SBCs in Cali
__________________________________________________
Don't think, look!
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Old June 14th, 2022, 02:23 PM   #8
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All that smog control stuff lol. Im pretty sure cali would just impound my car and never give it back 🤣
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Old June 14th, 2022, 02:34 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
There's also risk that used harness will also have some bad wires as well. I picked one up for free that also had bad black coil-trigger wire to harvest connectors for EFI upgrade. So used harness will also need to be tested and verified good before using. In which case, you might as well test yours.

Multimeter is cheaper than harness, faster results: HF - multimeter

How to use multimeter to measure wire resistance:
https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials...multimeter/all

Again, simple test to see if tach is interfering is to just unplug it. Then check for spark on #1. Depending upon how it's connected, might even be damaging to ignitor.
Just unhooked both ends and the coil. Tested on 2000 ohm and its reading 1618 ohms so its not an open circuit i would assume. Reads the same with the tach hooked up. Good coils. New plugs. Getting AC from the pickup. Kill switch works. I can honestly say im stumped once again. Everything ive tested is leading me back to the cdi box. But from what i understand its rare for them to just go bad 😕
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Old June 14th, 2022, 06:57 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deezg View Post
Just unhooked both ends and the coil. Tested on 2000 ohm and its reading 1618 ohms so its not an open circuit i would assume.
That's resistance end-to-end of black wire from ignitor connector to spade-terminal? Something's definitely wrong as it should be zero or less than 1-ohm if wire's any good. That much resistance would definitely kill any output from coil. Verify meter-reading by touching probe tips to each other.

Let's do actual spark test:

- remove plug-wires from head
- insert spare plug into plug-wire
- lay plug on engine so case of plug is grounded (or ground plug with jumper cable)
- crank engine

Do you see spark jumping at plug? What colour? Repeat for other side.

Also test plug-wires by swapping them to other side as well.
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Old June 15th, 2022, 02:43 AM   #11
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My meter is about 10 yrs old and was reading funny so i borrowed one and its reading .3 ohms. Checked twice. No spark with the plug against the head or with a spark tester. When i first got the bike it was firing on number 1 and not number 2. Now its the exact opposite 🤔 ive done everything from stripping the whole harness and looking for bad wires to swapping known good coils with no change. Gonna make a jumper wire after work and test it that way to eliminate the possibility of bad wiring
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Old June 15th, 2022, 03:35 AM   #12
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What ive done so far.... when i first got the bike i had no spark at all on cylinder #2. Swapped in known good coils and got spark on both sides. Still no start so i did a compression test and found holes in both pistons. Rebuilt the engine and once done it fired right up. Was riding for 2 days and noticed a bad misfire. Then wouldn't start at all. Checked spark and had none at all. So i started with new plugs. No change. Good coils. Nothing. Checked voltage from pickup. Getting like 3ish volts AC. Getting 12+V at both coils. Something changed and now its sparking on #2 and not #1. Somehow the spark changed cylinders. Red/green to #2. Red/black to #1. Charging system is working properly because i tested over 13v at the battery while it was running. Im not exactly a electrical guru but after all the process of elimination i cant think of anything else that would cause the spark to jump from one cylinder to the other without any reason besides a cdi issue.
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Old June 15th, 2022, 10:54 AM   #13
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Ok, something changed and bad component swapped sides...

Good idea is to never change system for troubleshooting. Non-interference because you'll introduce extra variables into system. Leave everything as-is and gather data through measurements only. There's something that hasn't been measured yet, and it's been swapped as part of troubleshooting.

Order that solenoid light, it'll tell us for sure about grounding pulses from ignitor. Test first at ignitor connector itself to see if it's working. Then at coils to see if signal made it.

Yeah, bad ignitor is possiblity. Lemme see if I've got spare I can send you to test.
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Old June 15th, 2022, 12:20 PM   #14
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The only thing that was changed was the stick coils and plugs. I wired the original coil back on to eliminate the possibility of bad sticks. When swapping the coil wires i still get spark on #2 and not #1. Ive checked every square inch of the harness and resistance tested all the wires with the multimeter and they tested good. After ruling out everything i cant see it being anything but the ignitor. The part that has me puzzled is how it goes from sparking only on #1 to great spark on both to only on number #2. Literally nothing changed during that time
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Old June 15th, 2022, 06:37 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post

Order that solenoid light, it'll tell us for sure about grounding pulses from ignitor.
So i bought a noid light set and tested the good side. Good solid flash every time the engine turned over. No signal at all on the opposite side. Found a cdi with the exact same # for $50 with a guarantee so i just went ahead and ordered it. It'll be here Friday. Figured even if its not my issue it will be good to have a spare jic
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Old June 15th, 2022, 07:03 PM   #16
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Cool! While you're waiting for it to arrive. Try doing solenoid-light test by back-probing ignitor-connector. Wonder if there's coil signal at source itself.
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Old June 19th, 2022, 05:32 PM   #17
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So I got the new cdi box in the mail and it was definitely the issue. Fired right up and runs amazing. Unfortunately.... my pod filters fell off while riding and now im waiting for new uni pods 🤣😭
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Old June 19th, 2022, 06:47 PM   #18
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Good job on repairs!!!
sorry I fat-fingered thumbs-down icon instead of thumbs-up!
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