Weight

Sipper' · November 19th, 2013, 10:14 AM

How light can a pre-gen be with keeping full body work and all parts needed for street use?

I know the stock exhaust, centerstand and grab rail are the big things to reduce weight but how much lighter is aftermarket bodywork?

Joshorilla · November 19th, 2013, 10:25 AM

If it's for street use, as in city riding, take the fairings off, you won't loose much in aerodynamics at city speed and you'll reduce more weight than fiberglass fairings giving better power to weight - drag and it's cheaper.

LOTS of threads on here about making a bike lighter, LOTS, try researching them first.

SDx · November 19th, 2013, 10:49 AM

Got mine down to 310 with a full tank... she's butt ugly though

Chicagobob · November 19th, 2013, 11:22 AM

Nice job, SDx!

On our pregen, we removed almost all the plastic and its supporting metal, a bunch of frame tabs, a couple of inches of subframe, and the seat latch hardware, and we used aftermarket lighting, instruments, handlebar and mirrors. All the stuff we removed weighed more than 30 lbs. The new stuff weighed about 6 lbs.

Stuff we would do if we had the money and didn't need to carry a passenger or ride in rain: Aftermarket exhaust, airbox delete, lithium battery, lighter tires, passenger peg and bracket removal, frame bob, removal of both fenders.

Check it out at:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=117501,
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=117957, and
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=120841

SDx · November 19th, 2013, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chicagobob

Nice job, SDx!

On our pregen, we removed almost all the plastic and its supporting metal, a bunch of frame tabs, a couple of inches of subframe, and the seat latch hardware, and we used aftermarket lighting, instruments, handlebar and mirrors. All the stuff we removed weighed more than 30 lbs. The new stuff weighed about 6 lbs.

Stuff we would do if we had the money and didn't need to carry a passenger or ride in rain: Aftermarket exhaust, airbox delete, lithium battery, lighter tires, passenger peg and bracket removal, frame bob, removal of both fenders.

Check it out at:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=117501,
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=117957, and
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=120841

Yeah I've been following those threads for a while... I'm interested in your handlebar conversion... you still using stock cables and controls?

Chicagobob · November 19th, 2013, 12:15 PM

Yes, all the stock pieces, except the new brake line. The Renthal bar is a few inches wider than the stock setup, so we had to reroute some of the control wiring behind the fork tubes, and cut the fairing stay tab off the steering head to avoid interference with the clutch cable. The clutch cable still runs forward of the top triple clamp.

If you used a narrower bar (like a Ninja 650 or Z1000 bar), you wouldn't have such issues.

Clip-ons are a lot easier.

SDx · November 19th, 2013, 02:52 PM

clipons aren't really an option for the type of roads I ride on, too bumpy and too much debris... I know you mentioned it in one of your threads, but whats the OD on the bars and any hints on drilling the holes?

TY,

Steve

Chicagobob · November 19th, 2013, 03:16 PM

They're standard 7/8" bars.

I drilled mine on the throttle side (which took a long time, because I don't have a drill press), but it isn't necessary. If you grind down the lugs in the switch housings and put a piece of double-sided foam tape on the bar where the housing is located, the controls will be very secure. The hole-and-lug system works well at the factory, but it isn't strictly necessary to secure the controls. Most other brands don't use lugs and holes.

If you really want holes, you can use bars from other Kawasaki models, like the Ninja 650 or Versys, which have them (and threaded bar-end lugs for weights or mirrors). The Ninja 650 bars are also narrower than the Renthal bars, so you may not have to reroute any wires.

SDx · November 19th, 2013, 03:49 PM

Actually I was inquiring about aligning the holes in the triple tree

Chicagobob · November 20th, 2013, 07:41 AM

Oh. I made a cardboard jig for that. It's very soft aluminum, and easy to drill. You have to be sure to space the holes so as to leave enough room for the nuts underneath.

choneofakind · November 20th, 2013, 10:09 AM

bumpy + debris = clipons aren't an option? Explain please because I don't follow.

My MTB bars + seat drop is much more aggressive than my ninjette, and I take that on trails that are full of bumpy + rocks + drop-offs + obstacles.

For drilling holes in the triple to mount upright bars, do some math, mark your centers, and do it on a drill press or mill. It will be a much better hole and will be much easier than doing it by hand.

Chicagobob · November 20th, 2013, 10:17 AM

It would be great if someone could make 7/8" bar mounts that bolted to the stock riser area. Wouldn't have to cover the fork tubes, so it wouldn't require too much aluminum. Maybe Bigballsofpaint could rig up something, as he offered in
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showt...&highlight=cad

SDx · November 20th, 2013, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chicagobob

Oh. I made a cardboard jig for that. It's very soft aluminum, and easy to drill. You have to be sure to space the holes so as to leave enough room for the nuts underneath.

excellent idea!!!!!

SDx · November 20th, 2013, 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by choneofakind

bumpy + debris = clipons aren't an option? Explain please because I don't follow.

My MTB bars + seat drop is much more aggressive than my ninjette, and I take that on trails that are full of bumpy + rocks + drop-offs + obstacles.

Let me rephrase that... I find clipons... uncomfortable.

choneofakind · November 20th, 2013, 03:12 PM

Ah, that makes more sense.

quarterliter · November 20th, 2013, 05:27 PM

Out of curiosity what is the 250s weight without fuel stock?

Chicagobob · November 21st, 2013, 07:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by quarterliter

Out of curiosity what is the 250s weight without fuel stock?

304 lbs

quarterliter · November 21st, 2013, 06:27 PM

Thats what I saw listed as dry weight. Manufacturers can cheat that by doing all sorts of things. Removing the battery, absolutely no fluids(oil coolant etc) and ever tires are sometimes included in that because they are a consumable. Anyone have an actual self tested one with their own pregen? Even a race bike would give a better idea.

choneofakind · November 21st, 2013, 06:31 PM

Actually, that doesn't seem out of line. It's spec'd at 304 dry/355 wet.

It holds 4.8 gallons full, plus oil. A gallon of gas is about 8 lbs, so that's 38 lbs in just gas. Add two quarts of oil, coolant, and brake fluid, I could see that being about the correct dry weight without trickery.

quarterliter · November 21st, 2013, 06:49 PM

Did cycle world or sportrider ever do a test on the pregen that we could refer too?

November 19th, 2013, 10:14 AM	#1
Sipper' ninjette.org member Name: Brian Location: Atlanta Join Date: Dec 2012 Motorcycle(s): 250 Ninja Posts: 179	Weight How light can a pre-gen be with keeping full body work and all parts needed for street use? I know the stock exhaust, centerstand and grab rail are the big things to reduce weight but how much lighter is aftermarket bodywork?

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November 19th, 2013, 10:25 AM	#2
Joshorilla Bass Master General Join Date: Aug 2012 Posts: A lot. Blog Entries: 24	If it's for street use, as in city riding, take the fairings off, you won't loose much in aerodynamics at city speed and you'll reduce more weight than fiberglass fairings giving better power to weight - drag and it's cheaper. LOTS of threads on here about making a bike lighter, LOTS, try researching them first.

November 19th, 2013, 11:22 AM	#4
Chicagobob ninjette.org guru Name: Bob Location: Chicago Join Date: Sep 2012 Motorcycle(s): '06 Ninja 250, 2018 Honda GL1800B Posts: 315	Nice job, SDx! On our pregen, we removed almost all the plastic and its supporting metal, a bunch of frame tabs, a couple of inches of subframe, and the seat latch hardware, and we used aftermarket lighting, instruments, handlebar and mirrors. All the stuff we removed weighed more than 30 lbs. The new stuff weighed about 6 lbs. Stuff we would do if we had the money and didn't need to carry a passenger or ride in rain: Aftermarket exhaust, airbox delete, lithium battery, lighter tires, passenger peg and bracket removal, frame bob, removal of both fenders. Check it out at: http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=117501, http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=117957, and http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=120841

November 19th, 2013, 12:15 PM	#6
Chicagobob ninjette.org guru Name: Bob Location: Chicago Join Date: Sep 2012 Motorcycle(s): '06 Ninja 250, 2018 Honda GL1800B Posts: 315	Yes, all the stock pieces, except the new brake line. The Renthal bar is a few inches wider than the stock setup, so we had to reroute some of the control wiring behind the fork tubes, and cut the fairing stay tab off the steering head to avoid interference with the clutch cable. The clutch cable still runs forward of the top triple clamp. If you used a narrower bar (like a Ninja 650 or Z1000 bar), you wouldn't have such issues. Clip-ons are a lot easier.

November 19th, 2013, 02:52 PM	#7
SDx ninjette.org member Name: steve Location: Half Moon Bay, CA Join Date: Apr 2013 Motorcycle(s): 02 ex250, 07 HD xl1200n, 69 ct90 Posts: 28	clipons aren't really an option for the type of roads I ride on, too bumpy and too much debris... I know you mentioned it in one of your threads, but whats the OD on the bars and any hints on drilling the holes? TY, Steve

November 19th, 2013, 03:16 PM	#8
Chicagobob ninjette.org guru Name: Bob Location: Chicago Join Date: Sep 2012 Motorcycle(s): '06 Ninja 250, 2018 Honda GL1800B Posts: 315	They're standard 7/8" bars. I drilled mine on the throttle side (which took a long time, because I don't have a drill press), but it isn't necessary. If you grind down the lugs in the switch housings and put a piece of double-sided foam tape on the bar where the housing is located, the controls will be very secure. The hole-and-lug system works well at the factory, but it isn't strictly necessary to secure the controls. Most other brands don't use lugs and holes. If you really want holes, you can use bars from other Kawasaki models, like the Ninja 650 or Versys, which have them (and threaded bar-end lugs for weights or mirrors). The Ninja 650 bars are also narrower than the Renthal bars, so you may not have to reroute any wires.

November 19th, 2013, 03:49 PM	#9
SDx ninjette.org member Name: steve Location: Half Moon Bay, CA Join Date: Apr 2013 Motorcycle(s): 02 ex250, 07 HD xl1200n, 69 ct90 Posts: 28	Actually I was inquiring about aligning the holes in the triple tree

November 20th, 2013, 07:41 AM	#10
Chicagobob ninjette.org guru Name: Bob Location: Chicago Join Date: Sep 2012 Motorcycle(s): '06 Ninja 250, 2018 Honda GL1800B Posts: 315	Oh. I made a cardboard jig for that. It's very soft aluminum, and easy to drill. You have to be sure to space the holes so as to leave enough room for the nuts underneath.

November 20th, 2013, 10:09 AM	#11
choneofakind ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: . Location: . Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much. MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14	bumpy + debris = clipons aren't an option? Explain please because I don't follow. My MTB bars + seat drop is much more aggressive than my ninjette, and I take that on trails that are full of bumpy + rocks + drop-offs + obstacles. For drilling holes in the triple to mount upright bars, do some math, mark your centers, and do it on a drill press or mill. It will be a much better hole and will be much easier than doing it by hand.

November 20th, 2013, 10:17 AM	#12
Chicagobob ninjette.org guru Name: Bob Location: Chicago Join Date: Sep 2012 Motorcycle(s): '06 Ninja 250, 2018 Honda GL1800B Posts: 315	It would be great if someone could make 7/8" bar mounts that bolted to the stock riser area. Wouldn't have to cover the fork tubes, so it wouldn't require too much aluminum. Maybe Bigballsofpaint could rig up something, as he offered in http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showt...&highlight=cad

November 20th, 2013, 03:12 PM	#15
choneofakind ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: . Location: . Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much. MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14	Ah, that makes more sense.

November 20th, 2013, 05:27 PM	#16
quarterliter ninjette.org guru Name: Kevin Location: Madison Join Date: Apr 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2004 Ninja 250 Posts: 465	Out of curiosity what is the 250s weight without fuel stock?

November 21st, 2013, 06:27 PM	#18
quarterliter ninjette.org guru Name: Kevin Location: Madison Join Date: Apr 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2004 Ninja 250 Posts: 465	Thats what I saw listed as dry weight. Manufacturers can cheat that by doing all sorts of things. Removing the battery, absolutely no fluids(oil coolant etc) and ever tires are sometimes included in that because they are a consumable. Anyone have an actual self tested one with their own pregen? Even a race bike would give a better idea.

November 21st, 2013, 06:31 PM	#19
choneofakind ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: . Location: . Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much. MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14	Actually, that doesn't seem out of line. It's spec'd at 304 dry/355 wet. It holds 4.8 gallons full, plus oil. A gallon of gas is about 8 lbs, so that's 38 lbs in just gas. Add two quarts of oil, coolant, and brake fluid, I could see that being about the correct dry weight without trickery.

November 21st, 2013, 06:49 PM	#20
quarterliter ninjette.org guru Name: Kevin Location: Madison Join Date: Apr 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2004 Ninja 250 Posts: 465	Did cycle world or sportrider ever do a test on the pregen that we could refer too?