I got a problem! Maybe you guys can help.

[Ghostt]

That part # 16017

[Ghostt]

The picture of that main jet holder was nasty, ALL HOLES NEED TO BE OPEN!!!!*

You need to remove the pilot jets as well as they are the probability the source of your problem, as I already posted a picture of what them should look like.

You need to make sure all the fuel circuits are clear with an air compressor to blow them out.


Taking shortcuts when cleaning the carburetors will only come back and be a PITA!!!

And just as important as thorough cleaning, is the float height adjustment, after that is the idle mixture screws properly adjusted.


Personally I would recommend to you just to pick up new pilot jets, and maybe also mains, and holders as well, they are cheap enough, and a lot easier than cleaning the old ones sometimes, especially if you lack the tools to do so.


Also you never answered my fuel filter question?

It's cases like this I wish I was closer to personally lend a hand.

[xVici]

Here are the pictures after dipping it into PineSol.

http://i.imgur.com/uiKqzRO.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/qeW8a31.jpg

Edit: Also, I don't know why there is a screw on the right of picture two... The original owner did not tell me about that... Should I be worried? Here is the screw: http://i.imgur.com/QibWgtM.jpg

[xVici]

Originally Posted by Ghostt

The picture of that main jet holder was nasty, ALL HOLES NEED TO BE OPEN!!!!*

You need to remove the pilot jets as well as they are the probability the source of your problem, as I already posted a picture of what them should look like.

You need to make sure all the fuel circuits are clear with an air compressor to blow them out.


Taking shortcuts when cleaning the carburetors will only come back and be a PITA!!!

And just as important as thorough cleaning, is the float height adjustment, after that is the idle mixture screws properly adjusted.


Personally I would recommend to you just to pick up new pilot jets, and maybe also mains, and holders as well, they are cheap enough, and a lot easier than cleaning the old ones sometimes, especially if you lack the tools to do so.


Also you never answered my fuel filter question?

It's cases like this I wish I was closer to personally lend a hand.

Oh sorry!! I completely forgot and didn't mean to ignore your advice! Trying to try out anything to get my bike working again lol. Here is the picture of the fuel filter. http://i.imgur.com/X8B58iQ.jpg

[cuong-nutz]

Oh man. I bet he was trying to remove the air mixture screw overs and thought that was it but goofed and had to fix it with jb weld and screw. Worried would be if he did a good job sealing it without restricting fuel flow.

[cuong-nutz]

Check your float needles to make sure they are not sticking and the rubber tips are not warn. Sorry if you covered this already. At bar with beer in hand

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by xVici

Oh sorry!! I completely forgot and didn't mean to ignore your advice! Trying to try out anything to get my bike working again lol. Here is the picture of the fuel filter. http://i.imgur.com/X8B58iQ.jpg

What about the fuel filter in the fuel inlet elbow itself?

You need to remove the pilot needle screws, and blow air from the jet side, and needle side as well, and all other openings as well.

Did you leave the slides in while soaking??? The carburetors must be completely disassembled!! But now split them apart.

I also agree with @cuong-nutz on that mystery screw.

Below is a picture of good Vs bad float needle valve.
note the deformed, and shrunken tip.

[xVici]

Originally Posted by Ghostt

What about the fuel filter in the fuel inlet elbow itself?

You need to remove the pilot needle screws, and blow air from the jet side, and needle side as well, and all other openings as well.

Did you leave the slides in while soaking??? The carburetors must be completely disassembled!! But now split them apart.

I also agree with @cuong-nutz on that mystery screw.

Below is a picture of good Vs bad float needle valve.
note the deformed, and shrunken tip.

I made a mistake of leaving the slides in while soaking. I just took them out. Please tell me it didn't do a lot of damage.

Edit: Also, the fuel inlet elbow is attached to the carb at the moment. I removed the slides and soaked it into PineSol again. I'll take a look at the elbow when I get a chance.

[Ghostt]

Your lucky you didn't use Chem-Dip. Rinse them off with soapy water, and inspect them, but you should be okay, lessons learned

[xVici]

The float rings looked good and the fuel inlet elbow looked good . On the other hand, I lost one of the collars (part 16017). Ugh.

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by xVici

The float rings looked good and the fuel inlet elbow looked good . On the other hand, I lost one of the collars (part 16017). Ugh.

I doubt its lost, most likely still in the carburetor, sometimes them pop out, sometimes they don't, sometimes halfway.

[alex.s]

did you check the spark plugs

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by xVici

I made a mistake of leaving the slides in while soaking. I just took them out. Please tell me it didn't do a lot of damage.

Edit: Also, the fuel inlet elbow is attached to the carb at the moment. I removed the slides and soaked it into PineSol again. I'll take a look at the elbow when I get a chance.

The OEM fuel filter fits just inside the fuel elbow, where the fuel hose attaches, the fuel elbow is NON-REMOVABLE!!!!! so don't even try it. As I said the filter just sits inside of it, it's a small nylon mesh filter.

[alex.s]

more of a screen than a filter really

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by alex.s

more of a screen than a filter really

Agreed, it's OEM so what do you expect, I'm thinking if he's running the OEM and that inline filter, that's not helping, personally I'd keep the inline, and ditch the OEM one.

Another concern is that repair job using that screw to fix it.

This tells me that amateur hour has already worked on these carburetors, so there's no telling what's right, and what's wrong.

[xVici]

Originally Posted by alex.s

did you check the spark plugs

Funny thing about the spark plugs. The original owner didn't give me the spark plug tool lol. I bought 2 new spark plugs but I heard it's easier to replace them if I have the tool.

As for the fuel filter... I thought you guys meant to check to see if it's clear lol. I don't see a mesh material inside the elbow at all. =\

[cadd]

Don't need the original spark plug tool unless you're trying to change the filter with the tank still on the bike.

Since your carbs are out, I'm assuming your tank is off the bike as well. If that's the case, any spark plug socket will do the trick. If you don't have one, head to the local hardware store or automotive store for one.

[alex.s]

how many miles does it have and what was the last major service it had

[xVici]

Originally Posted by alex.s

how many miles does it have and what was the last major service it had

It has around 14k miles. From my knowledge, the last major service it had was a oil change, spark plug change, and carb cleaned from the last owner. That was about 3-4 months ago.

[xVici]

Originally Posted by cadd

Don't need the original spark plug tool unless you're trying to change the filter with the tank still on the bike.

Since your carbs are out, I'm assuming your tank is off the bike as well. If that's the case, any spark plug socket will do the trick. If you don't have one, head to the local hardware store or automotive store for one.

Do most spark plug tools have the rubber with them? I read on how to change the spark plugs on the ninja250 faq and saw that the rubber helps tremendously with taking the spark plugs out.

[cadd]

All sparkplug tools should have the rubber. It helps the socket grip the plugs and pull them out.

Was the bike winterized?!?! 4 months ago, the carbs were cleaned. It should not need another cleaning for years and years if a fuel stablizer (like Stabil) was added to the tank when the bike was stored. And if the carbs were drained before storage, even better.

[xVici]

Originally Posted by cadd

All sparkplug tools should have the rubber. It helps the socket grip the plugs and pull them out.

Was the bike winterized?!?! 4 months ago, the carbs were cleaned. It should not need another cleaning for years and years if a fuel stablizer (like Stabil) was added to the tank when the bike was stored. And if the carbs were drained before storage, even better.

The bike was not winterized. I did ride it once every week though, to keep it running. I guess that was not enough. =\

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by xVici

The bike was not winterized. I did ride it once every week though, to keep it running. I guess that was not enough. =\

You did, but you forgot the fuel stabilizer, so you unknowingly ran old gas thru the carburetors, which most likely caused your problems.

Gasoline breaks down, there's some different opinions on the time table, but when In doubt, add stabilizer anyway, it won't hurt anything.

as I said lesson learned for next years winter storage.

[alex.s]

it probably needs a valve adjustment on top of everything else which is why its so hard to start

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by alex.s

it probably needs a valve adjustment on top of everything else which is why its so hard to start

Agreed

[xVici]

I had to order the new part because I can't seem to find it lol. In the mean time I can't put the carb back in yet. While I have this out, is the valve adjustment tedious to do? Also to properly adjust the idle mixture screws, do I turn them all the way in then back them out 2 1/2 turns each?

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by xVici

I had to order the new part because I can't seem to find it lol. In the mean time I can't put the carb back in yet. While I have this out, is the valve adjustment tedious to do? Also to properly adjust the idle mixture screws, do I turn them all the way in then back them out 2 1/2 turns each?

A valve adjustment can be a PITA sometimes, but you can give it a shot, just take your time and be patience and meticulous, just like the carburetors.

At the very least you can check them, but if you feel like it's a little too much, I would advise letting a qualified shop do it, or perhaps a fellow forum member whom is close to you might be able to lend a hand, BTW where in Oklahoma are you located?

Have you replaced any of the consumable carburetor parts? float needle valve? Idle needle screw O-ring? fuel bowl gasket?

If not, now is the time to do so. I personally recommend K&L rebuilding kits


K&L CARB REP KIT:KAW NINJA (CVK) 18-2639 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008Y29I36..._jKJdvb04YGJA2

Just remember to order two.

As far as tuning the pilot screws, here's my quick lesson,

Your initial setting should be 3 full turns out from the bottom, remember just slightly tighten them, don't go all Conan on them.



Then warm it up, slowly turn 1 side pilot screw in until the rpms drop, then back out till RPM's peak (and no further)* Twist throttle...see how it reacts...tweak to taste.
Repeat on other side... test ride. You're looking for best throttle response and transition from just cracked to 1/4 throttle opening or so.*

Thats a quickie, 10 cent tutorial on setting pilot screws.**

[xVici]

Hahaha. I loved the picture. And I live in Edmond, OK! I haven't replaced any of the parts yet; just cleaned them.

[xVici]

I have a curious question! When I looked up the main jet holders, they had multiple holes in them. However I only have 1 hole in mine. Will that make a difference? Here's the picture. http://i.imgur.com/Au8qgeh.jpg

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by xVici

I have a curious question! When I looked up the main jet holders, they had multiple holes in them. However I only have 1 hole in mine. Will that make a difference? Here's the picture. http://i.imgur.com/Au8qgeh.jpg

Those holes needed to be open!!!! All of them, soak them in real carburetor cleaning fluid.

[xVici]

The problem is that I only see one drilled hole. There's no indentation to indicated if there are other holes.

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by xVici

The problem is that I only see one drilled hole. There's no indentation to indicated if there are other holes.

Trust me they are there, and don't drill them.

Soak them over night then try to push them thru.

This also tells me that those carburetors were NEVER cleaned properly, so anything the former owner told you, I would quickly dismisses everything.

Here is picture for reference

[xVici]

Hmm. Both of them look like the one on the bottom of this picture. Maybe I should just buy new ones?

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by xVici

Hmm. Both of them look like the one on the bottom of this picture. Maybe I should just buy new ones?

Wise choice

[xVici]

Another curious question lol; I don't know if the original owner misplaced it or if I lost it by accident when I took out the jet holder to clean the carbs. But, if there is only 1 jet collar (part # 16017) inside one carb but not the other, what symptoms can the bike receive?

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by xVici

Another curious question lol; I don't know if the original owner misplaced it or if I lost it by accident when I took out the jet holder to clean the carbs. But, if there is only 1 jet collar (part # 16017) inside one carb but not the other, what symptoms can the bike receive?

It would run ike crap

But seriously, it would be had to start, and run poorly as the part is part of the main jet metering needles, it would either pull too much, or no fuel at all.

[Ghostt]

Edmond, OK huh? So much for me making a house call then, 804 miles away too bad.

Also your bike is a NewGen 2009 model, which lists some different parts for the carburetor, one of which is the main jet holder, the pictures I posted have been from a PreGen carburetor.

Also your holder doesn't show a cross reference to the PreGen models, why? I have no idea. But your holder might only have a single hole, or less than PreGen does.

http://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/k...rburetor-parts

This Kawasaki 13280-0333 HOLDER,NEEDLE JET is used on these models and components:

2008 EX250J8F Ninja 250R CARBURETOR PARTS
2009 EX250J9F Ninja 250R CARBURETOR PARTS
2009 EX250J9FA Ninja 250R CARBURETOR PARTS
2010 EX250JAF Ninja 250R CARBURETOR PARTS
2010 EX250JAFA Ninja 250R CARBURETOR PARTS
2011 EX250JBF Ninja 250R CARBURETOR PARTS
2011 EX250JBFA Ninja 250R CARBURETOR PARTS
2012 EX250JCF Ninja 250R CARBURETOR PARTS
2012 EX250JCFA Ninja 250R CARBURETOR PARTS

As you can see in the part diagram. Also keep in mind that the jet needles are different for the left and right carburetor as well..

Study the parts diagram careful.

[xVici]

Great! That means I don't have to buy new ones lol. The jet needles are different for the left and right carburetor you say? They look pretty much the same but I guess I'll take a real close look at them to make sure.

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by xVici

Great! That means I don't have to buy new ones lol. The jet needles are different for the left and right carburetor you say? They look pretty much the same but I guess I'll take a real close look at them to make sure.

Yes, it shows two different ones, why I have no idea.

I've heard the Kawasaki made the engine so one cylinder is torque, and power is horse power.

[Ghostt]

@xVici

Here is some more information about the NewGen carburetors, interesting reading for sure, also how's the work coming along.

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...924#post996924