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Old February 8th, 2016, 07:09 AM   #1
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PROJECT X

This is a ground up build for a land speed racing motorcycle. The bike will primarily run the Ohio Mile. There is also a new U.S. Mile , and the Texas mile. And I would like to race the Loring timing association track in Maine.

Then if the Bonneville Salt Flat ever dry out I will run it at the Bonneville motorcycle speed trials.

For this year I just want to run Ohio. The first race for this bike will be April 28 2016

The bike is a 2010 ninja 250. It hit a curb and bent both rims the frame ,fork ,gas tank and bent the bars and cracked the fairing. As well as removing the rear brake master cylinder.
The only bend in the frame I could find is the footpeg holder on the right side is pushed in about 4 mm.

So what am I going to do?? Everything except turbo and fuel injection.

This is a spec list of modifications.

2010 ninja frame cleaned up and removed any unnessacay tabs or hooks.
Extended rear swing arm
Lower links dropping the rear 2.5 inches
Front fork down 3 inches
Clip on bars under the top clamp
Custom fuel cell
Custom front fairing and front fender.
Footpeg Lower about 1 inch back and I inch down
140 rear tire 110 front tire
World wide creamic bearings

Koso Rx2 dash
Koso EGT with dual inputs.

The engine is 250cc.
Balanced crank
Carillo rods
Web cams
JE pistons
Adjustable cam gears
Manual CCT
Cylinder head ported
CnC valve job

The ignition is a BRT Tis with dual maps
Takai coils

CR Special carbs

Wizards of nitrous system with MAX Extreem controller.

This is really the forth bike I have built for this type of racing. It is made up from all the parts I have used since 2008 when I started racing at The Monster Mile in Maxton North Carolina.
But the frame is new the engine is new and some parts are new or modified.

Over the years I learned a lot . This bike solves as many problems as I can and hopefully it will be faster than ever before.
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Old February 8th, 2016, 07:18 AM   #2
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Old February 8th, 2016, 05:14 PM   #3
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The rear swingarm is extended Five and a half inches. I bought the swing arm extensions from E bay. For the orange bike I needed room for the fuel pump. And. This would help. Now I have the pump mounted inside the body and I can lower the whole bike.
Plus the extension allows three inches of chain adjustment. That is 21 different gear choises with the same chain.


http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/390842259797

SWINGARM EXT BLK NINJA 250 A7050AB

The problem was they extend the swing arm about eight inches and the bike out of the modified class in Ohio. And just make it not fit in any other category for other originations. I can only extend the wheel base 10% of the factory documented wheelbase of 55.1 in. Or 5.51 inch extention.

I ended up removing about three inches of the original swingarm and mounting extention pieces. The way they adjust is nice also.
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Old February 8th, 2016, 05:22 PM   #4
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Mounted the swingarm,with the rear hugger and the 140 mm tire .
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Old February 8th, 2016, 05:27 PM   #5
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Wouldn't smaller rear tire decrease wind and rolling resistance allowing a higher top speed? Or is changing tire sizes not allowed?

With our vintage bike, I noticed much better acceleration and top speed by going to a smaller rear tire. We went from a 4.10/18 to a 100/90/18.
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Old February 8th, 2016, 05:35 PM   #6
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I have two sizes and 21 gears. Depending on the power I am making I can adjust the RPM to any speed. As an example .The engine makes max power and the torque drops off around 11000 rpm with a stock engine. That is a 14 /42 and 26 hp that is around 100 mph. To much gear and you go down the track at 10000 because you don't have the power to go faster. And to little a gear and the engine is revving past the power band. Sounds nice but it is slower that before.
I run can everything from a stock 250 to a nitrous 300 and now I can gear for it with ease. I built it with the larger rear tire so I know the smaller tire will fit.
For acceleration like Drag racing I will use the smaller 130 tire.
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Old February 9th, 2016, 09:09 AM   #7
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I dropped the front end about as far as I can . There are no bumps in Ohio. The track is a smooth two mile slap of concreat. I want the nose down on the fender.

The nose is a ninja front piece . No headlight no bumps for the merror brackets.

The fender is a narrow ZX12 fender I guess it is for drag racing or Land speed. Both are made by air tech.
I used the stock front fairings but removed the line along the top edge. Along the tank and headlight that are both gone.

The lowering links at the rear are from Roaring Toys. And I am using a stock rear shock.
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Old February 9th, 2016, 09:29 AM   #8
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Looking good, I need to get back to finishing the Café Racer.
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Old February 10th, 2016, 01:47 PM   #9
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Clip on bars are essential to a land speed bike. They are mounted below the top fork clamp.

I removed the last two inches of the grips. And moved the grips in toward the center as far as I could.
On the clutch side I have a adjustable lever . I also use a first gen clutch cable. The second gen cable comes streight out. The first gen goes into a 90 degree bend. This helps clear the brake hose.
I also had to remove the ignition key
I removed the whole light switch pod and replace it with a starter kill switch from an R1. I mount it upside down and rewire it. Now it's a nitrous button and a switch to change ignition maps.

I limit the right and left movement of the fork . It's down to about 25 degrees .

The front brake lever on the right handlebar is hooked to the rear caliper. This makes it easy to mount the right footpeg. And I can use the hand break getting in and out of the van. That will be a nice addition I did not have before.

The break line is custom made by HEL. They are the best in te business.
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Old February 10th, 2016, 01:50 PM   #10
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Side view of the bars
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Old February 10th, 2016, 08:01 PM   #11
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Looking good!
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Old February 11th, 2016, 09:27 AM   #12
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Are you going to do anything to prevent the bike from bottoming out, or are you just going off of the fact that the track is smooth and hoping that is doesn't?
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Old February 11th, 2016, 10:59 AM   #13
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Im just figuring it won't bottom out when it matters. If It does I will know it. Because my chin is on the tank.
I will change the oil in the fork to 10 or 15 for now. I am going to get a set of fork tubes cut down by a machinest. And use stock springs. If I cut 1.5 inch off the tube and add heavy oil it should be OK on a smooth track.

The back is extended and will not bottom out under normal conditions. I can only go 10-20 mph off the track.
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Old February 11th, 2016, 11:02 AM   #14
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The fuel tank is another area that is key to going fast in a streight line.

I am in the modified class. So I don't have to use a stock tank. But I have to have a tank that can carry 1.35 gallons of fuel.

The key features of a land speed tank is a flat top. This allows you to get low and get the body flat.

No tank is really strange to ride. You don't have anything to hold on to with your legs. I use the front of the tank to push my helmet up. This helps me see. So the flat top , 1.35 gallon capacity and enough area to hold on to but not restrict the tuck.

The tank for this bike is made from 1/4 inch aluminum sheets. The model was made using duct tape and cardboard. Then poses cut and fitted and a welder(not me) put it all together.

This tank has been around for a couple years. It was made for a first gen frame. It fit the new gen frame after a couple modification.

I did the modifications to make the tank fit. Then I added enough fittings for the nitrous system and fiinally I had a new fill cap installed to replace the original one that bolted down with a gasket.

Pressure test for four hours and it's done.
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Old February 11th, 2016, 11:07 AM   #15
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This is how it sits on the bike
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Old February 11th, 2016, 11:11 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Racer x View Post
Im just figuring it won't bottom out when it matters. If It does I will know it. Because my chin is on the tank.
I will change the oil in the fork to 10 or 15 for now. I am going to get a set of fork tubes cut down by a machinest. And use stock springs. If I cut 1.5 inch off the tube and add heavy oil it should be OK on a smooth track.

The back is extended and will not bottom out under normal conditions. I can only go 10-20 mph off the track.
You would probably be a little better off if you cut a little off of the stock springs. I knew I cut ~5" (I did the math to calculate how much to cut) off of my stock springs then used preload spacers to spring my bike for my weight. Since you are cutting 1.5" off of the forks you mise well cut 1.5" off of the springs to make your life easier.
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Old February 11th, 2016, 11:14 AM   #17
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I might have to do that. The only reason I am cutting the fork tubes is the stick up in my face. I can see between them but the look funny.

I'm going to ride it around on a parking lot or somthing and see how it feels. I can always go up for the time being.

The only real problem I see at this point it getting in the van. Te ramp is steep and I probubly can't move it with the fairings in place.
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Old February 12th, 2016, 03:17 PM   #18
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The bike is together and wired. Now I have to wait for EBay fitting to complete the fuel system.
I ran the engine on starting fluid. And now I have to get some other things done. The ceramic bearings and the engine build are next. And I have to ship my nitrous controller to England for some upgrades.
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Old February 12th, 2016, 03:34 PM   #19
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Lookin' good there Eric!

Can't wait to see what it will do.
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Old February 14th, 2016, 05:19 PM   #20
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That looks really good!
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Old February 16th, 2016, 06:37 AM   #21
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Now on to the fuel system.
The tank is 1.35 gallon so I am in the modified class. I have the carbs running gravity feed through a Pingle shut off valve. I added a filter and just use hose and clamps.

For the nitrous I used to use gravity feed and everything went through AN-6 fittings out of the bottom of the tank. That presented a lot of problems. To remove the tank I have to drain the fuel. And remove large fittings in a cramped location.

This new tank has the return lines on top. That gets them out of the way. It's still cramped underneath the tank but much less. And I use AN-4 fittings now .

Fuel comes out of the tank goes through a filter to the pump. Then back to a T. On one side is the nitrous the other is an adjustable pressure regulator that returns fuel to the top of the tank.
I can adjust from 1~3 bar fuel pressure.

Fuel for the nitrous is delivered through thin nylon lines to atomizing jets.

I have a pile of fittings and hose but never the right ones. And I have AN-6 fuel filter . I now have to order an AN-4 filter because it smaller.

So I'm waiting for fittings and shipping my nitrous controller to England for a check up.
And I am saving up to get the ceramic bearings so I can do the wheels and start the 250cc engine build.
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Old February 16th, 2016, 02:08 PM   #22
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Cool build!

What do you have left to do before April? I assume you will be dyno testing and tuning- can you post your numbers when you do?
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Old February 16th, 2016, 03:50 PM   #23
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Fall the fittings showed up today. Tomorrow I will tighten all the connections. Once I put fuel in I can make some noise!
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Old February 17th, 2016, 07:28 AM   #24
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Thanks for the great read. I love this build and want to get involved in something like this one day. There is something about time trials, hills climbs and LSR events that really get my engineer bone tingling and race dreams piqued. Looking forward to seeing more!
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Old February 17th, 2016, 07:42 AM   #25
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Thanks for the great read. I love this build and want to get involved in something like this one day. There is something about time trials, hills climbs and LSR events that really get my engineer bone tingling and race dreams piqued. Looking forward to seeing more!
You live in SoCal! That is ground zero for Land Speed Racing. All you have to do is get a ruel book. Then build somthing. Dose not matter what. Get it through tech and run it down the track. After that all plans will change.

Mile racing is really taking off. The speeds are aproching 300 mph. Or if you are on a smaller engine . Car or bike under 150 mph. Honestly a mile is enough. And we race four or five times a year.
There are tracks springing up around the country.

This is a link to the East Coast Timing Assocation.
http://ecta-lsr.com
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Old February 17th, 2016, 07:07 PM   #26
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Thanks for the link. I am putting together my first race bike as we speak. I have a thread bout it here.

Work requirements have kept me from getting out to El Mirage so far, but I.m planning on doing more with racing, shows, museums whatever so I can to further immerse myself into the world of two wheeled motor sport.
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Old February 17th, 2016, 07:25 PM   #27
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After Bonneville ,Go to the Isle of Mann and watch the TT
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Old February 18th, 2016, 07:09 AM   #28
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I made a slight mistake wiring the fuel pump.

The pump is wired with a relay. The relay is activated with the same switch that activates the nitrous computer. Both go on when I flip the switch. But I don't want the pump to run all the time. So I mounted a switch that breaks the ground to the pump. Simple and there is a light to tell me when the pump is running. But I wired the pump to turn on when ever the ignition is on. I don't know why I did that. But it is not a big deal. Just got to go back and fix it.

This bike is super easy to work on. All the fuel lines are on the right side. All the wiring is on te left.
I can pull the rear hatch/seat and the mount by removing some bolts. That exposed everything.
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Old February 18th, 2016, 08:00 AM   #29
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@Racer x what chain are you using?
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Old February 18th, 2016, 08:02 AM   #30
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DID non O ring . 520
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Old February 18th, 2016, 08:03 AM   #31
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Old February 18th, 2016, 09:26 AM   #32
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I made a slight mistake wiring the fuel pump.

The pump is wired with a relay. The relay is activated with the same switch that activates the nitrous computer. Both go on when I flip the switch. But I don't want the pump to run all the time. So I mounted a switch that breaks the ground to the pump. Simple and there is a light to tell me when the pump is running. But I wired the pump to turn on when ever the ignition is on. I don't know why I did that. But it is not a big deal. Just got to go back and fix it.

This bike is super easy to work on. All the fuel lines are on the right side. All the wiring is on te left.
I can pull the rear hatch/seat and the mount by removing some bolts. That exposed everything.
The fuel pump is only used to pressurize the fuel for the Nitrous system correct? Why wouldn't you want it to go on at the same time as the Nitrous computer so that the system is primed and ready to go when you want to use it?
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Old February 18th, 2016, 03:36 PM   #33
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MOTM - Sep '18, Feb '16
I do want it to come on when I turn on the nitrous. But if I have the tank off or just doing programing then I don't want the pump to run.

I also want it all off when I am not using nitrous.

I mounted a big blue light in the top fork clamp. That way I don't forget to turn on the pump when I make a run.
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Old February 27th, 2016, 09:22 AM   #34
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I have finished the wiring.
I had a couple bozo moments. First I thought removing the 30 amp fuse in the starter relay would kill everything. So I removed the fuse and wired in my lanyard kill switch. But I have somthing back feeding voltage to the ignition.When I removed the pin from the kill switch the engine ran poorly and the dash went out.

So I put the fuse back in and cut the brown black wire going from the IG fuse . Now when I pull the pin everything turns off.

I rewired the nitrous fuel pump. It now does what I want when I want .

Next, I had a problem with my nitrous controller. I shipped it to England for an upgrade and to be checked out. It was working perfect for them and will be back soon.

So I began checking my wiring. It turns out I clamped a ground to the painted serface of the frame. It showed 13 volts on a meter. So I rigged up a high beam headlight and tried it. No current flow. Once I had a good ground then I had a nice bright light.

So now I need to reinstall the nitrous computer and test the nitrous system with a static test.
The static test is how the system is checked.
Fuel is under 2 bar of pressure. In each manifold there is a fuel atomizer. I can adjust the pressure from below 1 bar and up to 4 bar. But start with 2 bar

For the nitrous side
I install a nitrous jet. From experience I have found a single #100 jet is about 20 hp with 800psi bottle pressure. And 2 bar fuel pressure.

For the test I bring the warm engine up to 4000 rpm and hit the button. If the engine jumps nicely to 12000 rpm,then I am good to test it on the track. If it bogs down I need to reduce fuel pressure. If it spikes the rev limiter I add fuel pressure. Very simple to adjust.

http://youtu.be/OxIZyXmn288

This is a good test. I keep reving the engine because it tended to flood before I switched from gravity feed to pressurized fuel. Only on the static test. Never on the track. Not a problem now.

Once the static test is done I install a 282cc engine and tune the carbs and nitrous. Then I will go to the dyno.
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Old February 27th, 2016, 11:07 AM   #35
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If I could offer a suggestion for your bits of video, a good quality microphone would really add a lot to the experience. Not anything expensive, just better than the plastic-rattle-in-a-tin-can sound of the built in microphone of your camera (GoPro?).

I use an Azden SMX-10 with my GoPro. It's nothing special or expensive, but you don't have to go very far to do a lot better than the built in microphones on most recreational type video cameras. The Azden delivers much better sound quality across the entire range.
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Old February 27th, 2016, 11:58 AM   #36
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Thanks that's an older cell phone video. I should be I phone 6 in a couple months.
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Old February 27th, 2016, 01:37 PM   #37
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This is a dyno run from 2013. I really wish I had a better microphone for this. The engine is so loud it must peg the I phone micrometer. When I put my foot on the ground I am in fifth gear and hit the button.
I wish the sound was better.

http://youtu.be/XukbeavNwdg
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Old February 27th, 2016, 07:01 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer x View Post
This is a dyno run from 2013. I really wish I had a better microphone for this. The engine is so loud it must peg the I phone micrometer. When I put my foot on the ground I am in fifth gear and hit the button.
I wish the sound was better.

http://youtu.be/XukbeavNwdg
What did you use to record the nitrous test on your old bike with twin exhaust cams? That was one of the best sounding twin fourstrokes I've heard, and it was great quality.
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Old February 27th, 2016, 07:03 PM   #39
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It's all from my I phone 5
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Old March 3rd, 2016, 05:19 PM   #40
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I got my controller back today. It totally rocks. Now I can map both fuel and nitrous delays and volume. I can wright maps that not only change when the nitrous and fuel reach the engine. But I can adjust the volume also. And it adjusts from 0 to100%. That means when I hit the button I can adjust any lean or rich spikes with ease.

I did the static test. At 2 bar and 800 psi. That was on a bone stock engine. It jumped to 13500 perfectly . Now I just have to swap in the 282cc engine and button up some sensors.
This thing rocks.
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