March 29th, 2015, 10:54 AM | #1 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Justin
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Rear pads wearing very unevenly
Hey all,
I have been having noise from my rear pads since I adjusted my rear wheel alignment several months ago. A little squealing/scraping sounds like in a car when it is time for new pads. I finally got around to taking off the rear calipers and checking the pads and whoa! they look really terrible! One of the pads is worn crazy unevenly, and the other has no material left! Is this caused by the pad seating incorrectly in the caliper? Or from an incorrect rear wheel alignment? Do I need a new rotor now? I spun the rear wheel with the caliper off on the center stand and it doesn't look "wavy", but there are small grooves that can be seen and felt with a fingernail in the rotor surface. I am guessing I might need a caliper rebuild/cleaning now as well, given the amount of metal shavings that must have been removed from the pad holder. |
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March 29th, 2015, 11:13 AM | #2 |
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Name: William
Location: Houston
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Looks like one of the pistons seized causing an uneven braking
Surface. You may need to rebuild or buy a new caliper assembly. |
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March 29th, 2015, 11:17 AM | #3 |
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The piston probably needed a cleaning and got stuck, causing the uneven wear. You may want to get a new rotor too.
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March 29th, 2015, 11:45 AM | #4 | |
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The slider pins are your main cause of this.
Your caliper needs to be serviced, here's my how-to guide, enjoy Quote:
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March 29th, 2015, 11:57 AM | #5 |
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Name: Justin
Location: Phoenix, AZ
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Can anyone provide OEM part numbers for the parts I should replace when rebuilding the caliper? Is it just the dust covers? I am having trouble finding which parts must be replaced and the part numbers for them. Thanks guys!
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March 29th, 2015, 12:06 PM | #6 | |
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Quote:
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/searc...AKE/parts.html
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March 29th, 2015, 12:08 PM | #7 | |
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Name: Justin
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Quote:
So is it just 49006 and 49006A that typically need replacement? These are the dust covers for the rear caliper? |
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March 29th, 2015, 12:14 PM | #8 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Justin
Location: Phoenix, AZ
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http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Brake_caliper_rebuild
States there are 4 seals per caliper that should be replaced every 20k. I am at 19k now so probably should do then huh? |
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March 29th, 2015, 12:15 PM | #9 | |
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Quote:
Part #'s 43049 &43049A are for the piston
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March 29th, 2015, 12:16 PM | #10 | |
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Quote:
Here's a handy bookmark for you, http://www.partzilla.com/parts/searc...50R/parts.html
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March 29th, 2015, 12:57 PM | #11 |
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Hey lemme know if you need a rotor. I took mine off from my 07 with less than 6k on it.
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April 3rd, 2015, 06:14 AM | #12 |
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April 3rd, 2015, 07:48 AM | #13 |
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Yeah, I guess it is, I never realized it before,
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April 4th, 2015, 01:00 PM | #14 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Justin
Location: Phoenix, AZ
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Thanks for the info guys. I am waiting on the parts to do the rear caliper rebuild.
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April 4th, 2015, 01:02 PM | #15 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Justin
Location: Phoenix, AZ
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How much you want for it? Whats your zip for shipping? Not sure I need it yet, but you never know. After I rebuild the caliper, Ill see how it feels and may want to purchase a new rotor.
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April 4th, 2015, 02:07 PM | #16 |
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Just shoot me a reasonable offer. Shipping will be usps 2-day flat rate from 5-7 bucks.
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April 12th, 2015, 11:41 AM | #17 |
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Name: Justin
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OK, I got the parts in and removed the caliper, however one of the pistons is stuck inside the piston chamber! Any ideas on how to remove? I took some pics of the other piston that came right out, after cleaning. I see some faints marring. Is this piston in good shape? Pics below.
Should I lube the first piston and reinstall, then fill back up with brake fluid and start pumping the rear brake while holding the piston inside the caliper, so the other piston is pressurized, and hopefully will budge? |
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April 12th, 2015, 11:45 AM | #18 |
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Please take another look at my write-up again, all the answers you seek are there.
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April 12th, 2015, 12:36 PM | #19 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Justin
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I read through it again, but don't see anything about removing a stuck piston. Because I am impatient, I reconnected the caliper banjo bolt, filled the rear reservoir a bit, re-lubed the other piston and pushed it back into the caliper, and started pumping the rear brake lever. I get nothing. Now, even the piston that previously came right out doesn't move.
Could this be caused by air in the line? It is like I am not getting any pressure from pumping the brake lever. I am about to go get a grease gun and try pumping the caliper full of grease to move the pistons if I cant move them using the brake fluid. Any help would be much appreciated! |
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April 12th, 2015, 01:01 PM | #20 |
wat
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hit it with a hammer. hone the cylinder walls VERY LIGHTLY after to remove the corrosion. take it to a fine grit and polish the walls. replace the piston if its damaged
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April 12th, 2015, 01:04 PM | #21 |
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You gotta make sure there's full pressure going to the pistons. So take air out and then slowly apply the brake and the Pistons should come out
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April 12th, 2015, 01:24 PM | #22 | |
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If you have access to an air compressor, fill caliper with fluid and then very slowly apply pressure, be sure to use the C-clamp as directed in my write-up.
Quote:
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