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Old June 1st, 2013, 09:24 AM   #1
walty87
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Mother Effin headlight problem

I have another problem...

My headlights only work when they want too. Well... I should say the bright only works when it wants.

When this first started my normal headlight would sometimes decide not to turn on. The bright still worked, but now my reg headlight doesn't turn on at all... and my bright only works about 50% of the time. Makes riding at night real fun

Searched the problem, but it just lead to wiring diaphragms which scared me. I had no idea was I was looking at haha. Sure I could figure it out with more time.

Think it's wiring? Or could this be a case of bad bulbs? My 12' 250 has 14k miles or so.
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Old June 1st, 2013, 03:18 PM   #2
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Replace the bulbs first. Then move on to the next possible problem cause.
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Old June 1st, 2013, 03:36 PM   #3
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Replace the bulbs first. Then move on to the next possible problem cause.
Yes I need to do this. Just thought it was wierd how they sometimes work and sometimes the don't. Thought it could be more of an electrical problem or something.

Any rec's on bulbs? Phillips extreme visions the best? Or just get any h7 55 watt bulb 12v.
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Old June 1st, 2013, 03:45 PM   #4
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I love philips xtreme vision 100% bulbs, best bulbs for the price imo.
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Old June 1st, 2013, 03:51 PM   #5
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if they only work sometimes, its not the bulbs. its wiring or the switch. turn the lights on and start wiggling wires until you find one that makes it cut out. follow that wire in both directions and you will find your problem. if its not wires, try messing with the switch. on off on off now it doesn't turn on? try taking the switch apart and check the terminals for arc damage or corrosion. maybe something else got in there or it simply has fallen apart internally?
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Old June 1st, 2013, 03:53 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alex.s View Post
if they only work sometimes, its not the bulbs. its wiring or the switch. turn the lights on and start wiggling wires until you find one that makes it cut out. follow that wire in both directions and you will find your problem. if its not wires, try messing with the switch. on off on off now it doesn't turn on? try taking the switch apart and check the terminals for arc damage or corrosion. maybe something else got in there or it simply has fallen apart internally?

Sometimes I wish I could think of common sense stuff myself.

I'm such a tard, thanks for the tips man.
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Old June 4th, 2013, 09:36 PM   #7
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Soooo after tugging and wiggling on a bunch of wires I couldn't find any that were loose or anything thats causing the headlights to turn off or on.

It is also pretty wierd that when I start the bike they don't turn on, but after I ride for awhile the bright only will turn on.

Could my battery be dying? or any other ideas? I ordered new bulbs and am waiting for those.
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Old June 4th, 2013, 10:14 PM   #8
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I don't think its your battery, cause if it was, then your bike wouldn't even start properly in the first place. It has to be faulty wiring. I had this problem with my old bike and I ended up changing the entire wiring kit. That certainly did the trick. The problem doesn't necessarily have to be located around the headlight area. Start from the source and work your way upto the headlights.
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Old June 5th, 2013, 03:44 AM   #9
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Check the relay switch. The headlight relay is the little box black square box at the back of the battery next to the fuse box.
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Old June 5th, 2013, 09:56 AM   #10
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Check the relay switch. The headlight relay is the little box black square box at the back of the battery next to the fuse box.
Just took a look at it right now. Wasn't 100% what I was looking at, but I played with all the wires on that box and in the area and nothing triggered my headlights to come on. I also changed the headlight fuse with one of the spares and still nothing.

Guess I'm going to have to tear all the plastics off and check every piece of wire? On the wires and I looking for a piece that's disconnected somewhere or cuts with wire exposed? I just don't get how this would happen! Lol

Any more idears guys?
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Old June 5th, 2013, 10:38 AM   #11
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........
Any more idears guys?
You may be able to understand this simplified circuit:

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5Ag...TZl/edit?pli=1

I believe that the left handle switch is defective or it just has dirty connections.

If split the plastic handlebar casing, you can access the cables coming to the switch and by-pass the ones for the low beam, just to verify the condition of the switch.
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Old June 6th, 2013, 02:24 PM   #12
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still cannot figure this damn problem out.

the high beam will come on after the bike's been running it seems.

I've played and checked with all the things i have pictured as well as the wires up front.

anything else guise? ugh.
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Old June 6th, 2013, 03:04 PM   #13
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update.

I jiggled around the wires on this black box that's circled, and unplugged it and shook it to hear if I heard any wiggling or moving things.. plugged it back in and now my bike will not even start LOL!

just makes a clicking sound now whenever I hit the start button.

Oh lawd what have I done. I'm a noob

could my battery be dead? and if so would that cause my headlights to only come on after riding?
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Old June 6th, 2013, 03:29 PM   #14
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not trying to spam guys. sorry.

I jump started my bike and have it running. but now my rpm meter is not working. It just sits at zero now...

UPDATE. Went to give it some gas while running. The engine died. And now when I turn the bike on and hit the starter i'm getting no sound. No clicking noise even?
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Old June 6th, 2013, 03:50 PM   #15
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update.

I jiggled around the wires on this black box that's circled, and unplugged it and shook it to hear if I heard any wiggling or moving things.. plugged it back in and now my bike will not even start LOL!

just makes a clicking sound now whenever I hit the start button.

Oh lawd what have I done. I'm a noob

could my battery be dead? and if so would that cause my headlights to only come on after riding?
That is your IC Ignitor. It controls the ignition timing and spark.

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Originally Posted by walty87 View Post
not trying to spam guys. sorry.

I jump started my bike and have it running. but now my rpm meter is not working. It just sits at zero now...

UPDATE. Went to give it some gas while running. The engine died. And now when I turn the bike on and hit the starter i'm getting no sound. No clicking noise even?
Either completely dead battery, dead IC Ignitor or both.
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Old June 6th, 2013, 04:04 PM   #16
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That is your IC Ignitor. It controls the ignition timing and spark.



Either completely dead battery, dead IC Ignitor or both.
appreciate the fast response man. I get overly panicked when things go south

so it makes the clicking sound again. Going to buy a new battery tomorrow and my bulbs should be here.

Would the battery being completely dead cause my headlights to not work right, or my rpm tach not to work?
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Old June 6th, 2013, 04:18 PM   #17
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....Would the battery being completely dead cause my headlights to not work right, or my rpm tach not to work?
It's plausible. I'd check the battery voltage.

From the wiki -http://www.ninjette.org/wiki/Battery

- if you notice the lights are dim, recharge the battery.

- when revving the engine, and the lights dim you may need to replace the battery or the rectifier/regulator

- if activating the horn, brakes or turn signals increases the rpm speed, charge or replace the battery.

- if your lights on the Ninja 250 begin to flicker or your gauges or engine speed start to act erratically, check your battery connections

- charge the battery if the motor fails to start or the starter relay makes a clicking noise
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Old June 6th, 2013, 04:44 PM   #18
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loose/bad connection at IC would look something like this:

Link to original page on YouTube.

Disconnect your battery, THEN unplug the IC ignitor and check for bent/damaged pins on plug and IC. If all is ok, reconnect IC and then the battery.

Also, low system voltage (from bad battery or regulator) would cause the tach to read off/not read.

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Old June 6th, 2013, 05:04 PM   #19
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How about very low vaultage from battery causing headlights not to work properly
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Old June 6th, 2013, 05:21 PM   #20
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i had this problem a little while ago. it was my battery that was the problem though. use a multimeter to see if your battery has a charge.
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Old June 6th, 2013, 05:22 PM   #21
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and it can't hurt to get a fresh battery either for a few bucks.
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Old June 6th, 2013, 05:23 PM   #22
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The headlights on the ninja turn on from a diode powered from the alternator. This is why it only turns on when the engine is turned over. The diode sends power to the headlight relay. If the relay is faulty, it could cause the lights to flicker of the coil is weak. Check bulbs first for broken filament (give a flick and see if it shakes), then relay.
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Old June 6th, 2013, 05:34 PM   #23
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Quote:
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The headlights on the ninja turn on from a diode powered from the alternator. This is why it only turns on when the engine is turned over. The diode sends power to the headlight relay. If the relay is faulty, it could cause the lights to flicker of the coil is weak. Check bulbs first for broken filament (give a flick and see if it shakes), then relay.
good info. Should be getting my new bulbs tomorrow, and i'm picking up a new battery tomorrow as well. guess once I get both these parts and i'm still having issues it's the ic igniter
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Old June 8th, 2013, 08:27 AM   #24
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I ordered the wrong bulbs haha I'm so dumb, but I did get a new battery and my bike starts up perfect and the rpm tach works perfect

Headlights still don't come on. Only the high bean will come on once I've been riding for 10 mins or so. And that's only sometimes.
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Old June 9th, 2013, 03:53 PM   #25
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The headlights on the ninja turn on from a diode powered from the alternator. This is why it only turns on when the engine is turned over. The diode sends power to the headlight relay. If the relay is faulty, it could cause the lights to flicker of the coil is weak. Check bulbs first for broken filament (give a flick and see if it shakes), then relay.
Would the bulbs being faulty cause them only to work sometimes? I would imagine they just wouldn't work at all? Not turn on after I've been riding for 10+ minutes?
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Old June 9th, 2013, 07:37 PM   #26
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Check bulbs first for broken filament (give a flick and see if it shakes).
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Old June 11th, 2013, 11:43 AM   #27
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Would this be the cause of the problem? Hopefully this didn't burn out the ic igniter or anything

also this is from the low beam side. the high beam side was fine, but it's still not coming on. Also the blue light on my dash doesnt turn on when I have the high beam light switch on.

p.s i have replaced the bulbs

@Asspire @DaBlue1 @Motofool @alex.s

thanks guys for following this and helping me. I'm learning tons as I go about this stuff, just a lot to take in
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Old June 11th, 2013, 01:09 PM   #28
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could be. how great is the resistance through that connector?
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Old June 11th, 2013, 01:30 PM   #29
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Old June 11th, 2013, 01:31 PM   #30
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.............the high beam side was fine, but it's still not coming on. Also the blue light on my dash doesnt turn on when I have the high beam light switch on.

thanks guys for following this and helping me. I'm learning tons as I go about this stuff, just a lot to take in
I think that you should follow the advice of post #11 above, because both lights are fed from that switch.

You are welcome, andrew
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Old June 11th, 2013, 01:32 PM   #31
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could be. how great is the resistance through that connector?
what do you mean by resistance? the bulb prongs will slide right in if that's what you're talking about

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Houston. we have a problem.
Ordered a new lamp connector thing. Hopefully this is the only problem? haha

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I think that you should follow the advice of post #11 above, because both lights are fed from that switch. You are welcome, andrew
I am confused by the simplified circuit Motofool. I did open up the left handlebar casing switch box. I didn't notice any corrosion or anything that looked bad.

I'll be honest I have no idea how to bypass the switch.
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Old June 11th, 2013, 02:05 PM   #32
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Assuming you mean undo these wires to bypass the switch? How would I re connect them lol..
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Old June 11th, 2013, 02:25 PM   #33
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Assuming you mean undo these wires to bypass the switch? How would I re connect them lol..
The blue/yellow cable brings the juice to the headlights.

As you operate the switch, you connect that wire to either one of the other two.

When the blue/yellow is connected to the red/yellow, the low beam only should shine (which is happening now, no problem).

When the blue/yellow is connected to the red/black, the high beam and the high-beam's indicator light only should shine (which is not happening now).

You can bridge between two of those solder spots with a heavy wire of flat screwdriver (don't touch ground (frame) with it at the same time), while a helper check if those lights turn on.
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Old June 11th, 2013, 02:46 PM   #34
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The blue/yellow cable brings the juice to the headlights.

As you operate the switch, you connect that wire to either one of the other two.

When the blue/yellow is connected to the red/yellow, the low beam only should shine (which is happening now, no problem).

When the blue/yellow is connected to the red/black, the high beam and the high-beam's indicator light only should shine (which is not happening now).

You can bridge between two of those solder spots with a heavy wire of flat screwdriver (don't touch ground (frame) with it at the same time), while a helper check if those lights turn on.
just bridged the blue/yellow to the red/black, and nothing happened. No blue light on dash and no high beam

Still no headlights turning on. My old bulbs did not look burnt out, but i have replaced them. I also checked the wiring, opened up the left handlebar housing and checked everything in there and still have found nothing.

The only thing I've found bad was that lamp holder which I posted a pic of above that seemed to have some corrosion damage / melting like something happened there. I then am using the only good one I have on the low beam side and am still getting not getting anything to turn on.

What else can I check for guys? this is depressing. Starting to think that the part that burn out or melted fried my ic igniter? possible? damn this sucks
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Old June 11th, 2013, 02:59 PM   #35
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just bridged the blue/yellow to the red/black, and nothing happened. No blue light on dash and no high beam

Still no headlights turning on. My old bulbs did not look burnt out, but i have replaced them. I also checked the wiring, opened up the left handlebar housing and checked everything in there and still have found nothing.

The only thing I've found bad was that lamp holder which I posted a pic of above that seemed to have some corrosion damage / melting like something happened there. I then am using the only good one I have on the low beam side and am still getting not getting anything to turn on.

What else can I check for guys? this is depressing. Starting to think that the part that burn out or melted fried my ic igniter? possible? damn this sucks
Then, we know now that the switch is OK.

What you see at the connectors is destruction due to electric arc and high temperature, due to a loose connection, but I don't think that that could have damaged anything else.

Do you have a test light or voltmeter?
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Old June 11th, 2013, 03:48 PM   #36
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Then, we know now that the switch is OK.

What you see at the connectors is destruction due to electric arc and high temperature, due to a loose connection, but I don't think that that could have damaged anything else.

Do you have a test light or voltmeter?
I have access to them yes. What should I try sir!?
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Old June 11th, 2013, 09:10 PM   #37
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i would check for power at the blue/yellow wire coming out of the headlight relay


edit: you'll wanna do that with the engine running....
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Old June 11th, 2013, 09:38 PM   #38
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i would check for power at the blue/yellow wire coming out of the headlight relay


edit: you'll wanna do that with the engine running....
Best way to check for power? And by relay you're talking about the big black box under my back seat/ cowl? Ic igniter thing?
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Old June 11th, 2013, 10:09 PM   #39
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with a voltmeter


first pic is headlight relay. put positive test lead on blue/yellow wire, negative test lead on battery negative.
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Old June 11th, 2013, 10:44 PM   #40
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Name: andrew
Location: oakdale california
Join Date: Nov 2011

Motorcycle(s): 2012 ninja 250

Posts: 296
Quote:
Originally Posted by Asspire View Post
with a voltmeter


first pic is headlight relay. put positive test lead on blue/yellow wire, negative test lead on battery negative.
Like Alex.s said... "Houston I think we got a problem"!?

I was getting a 0 ZERO reading. Maybe that relay is bad!?

Just for verification reasons I also tested the positive and negative of my battery and was getting 11.6v (you cant see it in the 3rd pic, but thats what it read)
Attached Images
File Type: jpg bat1.jpg (73.5 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg bat2.jpg (103.0 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg bat3.jpg (82.4 KB, 10 views)
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