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Old August 18th, 2017, 01:36 PM   #41
JacRyann
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hey guys, its been a few days, finally had time to pull the harness and split it open.

Found that the black (signal wire for the tach) and the brown/black (im assuming ground for tach, gas gauge, and temp light) were worn through and touching, close to where the black wire splits into two wires ( to go to tach and left coil, respectively)

I dont want to jinx it but I'm pretty sure that was my problem. At this point do i just wrap the bare spots with tape and then wrap the harness back up?
I think others mis-read your word "split" as break in wire, not as just Y-split sending signal in two directions.

If the inner copper conductor is intact, then yes, wrapping it up will be fine. If it's frayed and broken, then you'll want to solder back together. In which case, might as well cut it all the way through so you can slide shrink-wrap tubing in before soldering. Then you'll have more durable repair as tape will eventually fall off when adhesive dries up.

Is this short on gauge-side of connectors? Or between ECU and gauge-connector?

You'll want to test black-wire for signal with short repaired to determine if ECU is damaged.
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Old August 18th, 2017, 01:40 PM   #42
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Yes I was talking about where the wire splits into two. The wire still looks intact just worn through the insulation. And it's in the main harness not the gauge cluster harness
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Old August 18th, 2017, 01:48 PM   #43
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in a prefect work yes. but will wrapping it in electrical tape suffice?
Of course it will fix the problem. I understood that the problem is worn-through insulation, I'm just not a fan of fixing worn insulation with electrical tape. It might last 100 years though, so do it that way if you prefer.
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Old August 18th, 2017, 03:32 PM   #44
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I like repair methods like splicing in new sections of wire, using solder and heat-shrink tubing on the joints.
A man after my own heart TJ. That's the method I plan to use installing my new outboard brake lights. I will not use "crimp" connections, I don't trust them.

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Old August 18th, 2017, 03:49 PM   #45
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Got the wiring harness back in. Still no signal on black wire. At this point is it safe to say that the ecu is fried?
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Old August 18th, 2017, 04:00 PM   #46
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I wouldn't assume that until I verified that all the signals into the controller are correct, while measuring the two coil outputs. Or borrow another one and swap them temporarily.
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Old August 18th, 2017, 09:11 PM   #47
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is there any way to test the ecu without finding another one to try out?
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Old August 18th, 2017, 09:36 PM   #48
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is there any way to test the ecu without finding another one to try out?
If an "ECU" is the same thing as an "IC Igniter" there's an (Excedrin headache #999) extensive testing procedure on page 15-21 of the Kawasaki Service Manual.

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Old Yesterday, 01:17 AM   #49
JacRyann
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Quote:
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I like repair methods like splicing in new sections of wire, using solder and heat-shrink tubing on the joints.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ram Jet View Post
A man after my own heart TJ. That's the method I plan to use installing my new outboard brake lights. I will not use "crimp" connections, I don't trust them.

Bill
death to all crimp splice connectors!!! The only things I crimp are terminal ends with the proper crimp tool and then I'll solder on top of that. This keeps moisture from creeping up inside between wire strands and causing black green wire disease.
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Old Yesterday, 01:38 AM   #50
JacRyann
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Confirm your black-wire repair. Test that by measuring resistance between black-wire spade connector to chassis ground. Compare that to your earlier reading and what do you get?

Quote:
Originally Posted by gitter View Post
Got the wiring harness back in. Still no signal on black wire. At this point is it safe to say that the ecu is fried?
Quote:
Originally Posted by gitter View Post
is there any way to test the ecu without finding another one to try out?
No output on ECU-ignited black wire to left coil pretty much confirms it's dead. Now WHY it's dead can be a mystery that's endlessly debatable. But there's no arguing that it's dead on left side. I think the short on black wire wiped out the driver-transistor.

Do one more test to confirm the left channel's dead.

- disconnect black wire spade from coil
- bridge green-wire from right coil to left coil empty terminal with test-leads/alligator clips
- perform 'noid light test on green coil, does it flash?
- perform 'noir light test on black coil, does it flash?
- how does bike run?
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