Missing Oil Filter Fence

kvgeorge1 · July 21st, 2017, 05:20 PM

I just purchased a 2008 Ninja 250R from a friend of mine and noticed that it needed an oil change (oil was black as pitch). Now, I also noticed that the level was too high. So, I began the process of draining the oil and removing the filter. Low and behold, when I removed the filter, the filter fence is missing. I am no mechanic and this is all new to me (including motorcycles), so my questions/concerns are:

1. Is this a big deal?

2. Could this cause issues with the clutch and/or transmission since this bike has a wet-clutch?

3. Could damage be caused by over-filling the oil?

Brother Michigan · July 21st, 2017, 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kvgeorge1

I just purchased a 2008 Ninja 250R from a friend of mine and noticed that it needed an oil change (oil was black as pitch). Now, I also noticed that the level was too high. So, I began the process of draining the oil and removing the filter. Low and behold, when I removed the filter, the filter fence is missing. I am no mechanic and this is all new to me (including motorcycles), so my questions/concerns are:

1. Is this a big deal?

2. Could this cause issues with the clutch and/or transmission since this bike has a wet-clutch?

3. Could damage be caused by over-filling the oil?

1. Probably not, but you should definitely replace it.

2. Possibly, but it's not likely. The filter itself would have caught anything missed by the mesh even if that's not the ideal situation.

3. Yes, but it really depends on how high the oil level actually was. Draining the oil and filling the the right quantity of the proper type of oil (any oil sporting the JASO-MA rating in 5W-40 or 10W-40 is perfect) before running the engine will likely tell you if any damage has been done.

kvgeorge1 · July 21st, 2017, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brother Michigan

3. Yes, but it really depends on how high the oil level actually was. Draining the oil and filling the the right quantity of the proper type of oil (any oil sporting the JASO-MA rating in 5W-40 or 10W-40 is perfect) before running the engine will likely tell you if any damage has been done.

Ok, so what also prompted me to do this is that suddenly, when riding in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, or 4th gear, the transmission acts like it is not going into gear (loud, fast-repetative banging) and then will go in, only to do it again if I give it the gas. Could this be the type of damage from too-much oil, or would this be something else?

Triple Jim · July 21st, 2017, 08:51 PM

I doubt if too much oil caused that. Too much oil typically causes contact with the crank, which foams the oil, and while that's not horrible, it's not good. I doubt if foamy oil would affect transmission engagement.

Check to be sure your shift linkage is free and not hitting something that makes it not travel as far as it should.

KikRox · July 22nd, 2017, 08:44 AM

I had all sorts of issues with false neutrals, clunking, and crunching as well in the past and it was due to a mis-adjusted shifter linkage. take the lever off, adjust the tie rod ends outward so it snugs it up (giving it more leverage for shifting up gears) then take it for a spin and see what happens.

kvgeorge1 · July 22nd, 2017, 11:58 AM

The irritating thing about all this is that we only put less than 200 miles on it and already having these problems.

Is this a sign that the friction plates need to be changed, or that the transmission is messed up?

DannoXYZ · July 22nd, 2017, 12:23 PM

Sounds like clutch-cable needs adjustment. Clutch plates aren't fully disengaging and causing difficulty shifting.

kvgeorge1 · July 22nd, 2017, 12:28 PM

I haven't replaced the clutch. I did tighten-up the cable, but all I did was change the oil. I guess I am asking if the banging is due to a failing clutch, or how can you tell if the clutch is bad vs. needing to change the friction plates, vs. anything else.

The sound it makes is a though things aren't sync'ing properly (just a guess mind you) when releasing the clutch or giving it some gas.

Triple Jim · July 22nd, 2017, 12:49 PM

Did you take a close look at the shift linkage yet?

kvgeorge1 · July 22nd, 2017, 12:57 PM

I haven't yet. I am new to this so I am trying to get my head around what you are asking me to do. My confusion/concern about this is that we purchased the bike used (had 14,800 miles on it), and we put 200 miles on it. Out of the blue, it starts to have this issue.

I'm not sure I understand how adjusting the clutch lever could fix this. Can you help me understand this a bit better?

DannoXYZ · July 22nd, 2017, 01:10 PM

Clutch cable should be adjusted to release and engage about 1/2-way through lever-travel.

The linkages should be set to both ends are 90-degrees to rod.

Clutch-wear would not cause sticky-shifts as the plates are no longer rubbing. Worn-clutch makes for easy shifting, don't even have to touch lever at all!

Triple Jim · July 22nd, 2017, 01:36 PM

The linkage I'm referring to is the system of the shift lever, the rod, and the arm on the transmission. It's adjustable, and can get bent in crashes. Move the lever through its travel in both directions and see if anything is preventing any of the parts from moving freely.

The easy neutral finding feature of this transmission complicates things a little. I think if you ride the bike and get it into 3rd gear and then roll to a stop and shut off the engine, you can then put the bike on its center stand and shift while turning the rear wheel a little so the transmission engages the next gear. By doing this and observing the linkage closely, you can see if something is interfering with its movement.

kvgeorge1 · July 22nd, 2017, 01:40 PM

Ah, ok. I took the shifter off and put it back on. Also, made sure that the cable was correctly adjusted. Still no joy. When I shift, there is nothing is the way of the shifter actually shifting, and I can feel the gears shift. The problem is when I release the clutch to actually move. That's when the rapid banging it happening like it is not in gear, then suddenly it will fall into gear and I move.

kvgeorge1 · July 22nd, 2017, 01:46 PM

Oh, one other thing I noticed. I can put the bike into 1st gear or neutral without having to pull in the clutch when the bike is off. Is this normal?

DannoXYZ · July 22nd, 2017, 02:01 PM

Yes, that's nornal. Easier to shift with engine off because the crankshaft, input-shaft and output-shaft of transmission are no longer spinning at different speeds.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kvgeorge1

I'm not sure I understand how adjusting the clutch lever could fix this. Can you help me understand this a bit better?

If the clutch-lever isn't adjusted so the cable fully pulls on the clutch to disengage both sides, then the engine will still be spinning the transmission slightly. This will make it difficult to change gears. There's simple way to test if the clutch is dragging with bike off and on rear-stand:

1. put trans into neutral and spin back tyre. This is your baseline feel with no drag

2. put trans into 1st or 2nd and spin back tyre. It doesn't move right? Since you're trying to spin the engine by hand. Now... squeeze the clutch lever and spin back tyre. Does it spin as smoothly and easily as in #1? If not, your clutch is dragging.

The banging sounds and grinding when letting out clutch lever might be broken clutch basket. Or broken gears in transmission. Or gears that are caught halfway between shifts. Undercutting the gear dogs will help make shifts more positive.

kvgeorge1 · July 22nd, 2017, 02:19 PM

Ding, ding, ding! We have a winner! CLUTCH is dragging.

Ok, how do I fix that?

DannoXYZ · July 22nd, 2017, 02:26 PM

Here's a picture of gearbox, note that each "gear" is actually pairs of two gears, one on input-shaft and one on output-shaft.

They are selected by shifter-forks that slides pairs of gears along both shafts. Gears engage of different sizes for different gear-ratios. Now, in order for these gear-pairs to disengage, slide and different pairs re-engage, it's obvious that two shafts should be spinning at same rate right?

Now, this is where the clutch comes in (right).

Engine drives the outside of the clutch-basket and input-shaft is connected to the inside of clutch-basket. With clutch engaged, input-shaft spins in-sync with crankshaft at ratio of primary-drive gearing. When stopped, output-shaft is stationary, but engine is spinning, thus input-shaft is also spinning. Trying to change gears will be difficult because one gear on output-shaft is not moving, while matching gear on input-shaft is spinning with engine.

Squeezing clutch lever then separates the clutch-halves and allows engine to continue spinning outside clutch-basket while inside stops and input-shaft stops. With both input & output-shaft stopped, you can then slide next gear-pairs together. IF the clutch doesn't disengage fully, then trying to shift a spinning-gear into a stationary-gear will be difficult, you'll end up with gear-grinding and banging.

IF it's making this kind of noise when you let out clutch-lever, then this can be caused by broken gears, mis-aligned half-engaged gears, and/or clutch-basket or clutch-disc fingers broken. Try more positive and forceful gear-shifter movements so you can feel it clank at end of travel. Like slamming ammo clip into gun. Half-assing it will cause problems, hit it until it's at end of travel every time.

kvgeorge1 · July 22nd, 2017, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JacRyann

IF it's making this kind of noise when you let out clutch-lever, then this can be caused by broken gears, mis-aligned half-engaged gears, and/or clutch-basket or clutch-disc fingers broken. Try more positive and forceful gear-shifter movements so you can feel it clank at end of travel. Like slamming ammo clip into gun. Half-assing it will cause problems, hit it until it's at end of travel every time.

So, what I hear you telling me is to FULLY release the clutch (like popping the clutch) and forget about smoothly shifting. Are you also telling me to adjust the clutch cable to ensure that the clutch FULLY disengages since it is dragging?

Triple Jim · July 22nd, 2017, 04:09 PM

He said a more positive and forceful gear shifter movement, not a forceful clutch lever movement. Pull the clutch lever and then be firm with the shift lever using your left boot.

If the clutch is dragging, it needs to be adjusted, either at the hand lever or at the other end of the cable.

kvgeorge1 · July 22nd, 2017, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Triple Jim

He said a more positive and forceful gear shifter movement, not a forceful clutch lever movement. Pull the clutch lever and then be firm with the shift lever using your left boot.

If the clutch is dragging, it needs to be adjusted, either at the hand lever or at the other end of the cable.

Oh, ok. I am starting to understand. So, when I put the bike in 1st (powered off) and pull the clutch lever in, the wheel turns, but has a LOT of friction on it making it difficult to rotate (neutral is not this way), so I am assuming that this is a sign of a dragging clutch.

What I don't understand is how to adjust the cable to help this situation. I have adjusted the clutch lever at the handle bars as far as I can take it and still be in-spec (2-3mm opening when taking out the slack). How do I make this tighter to remove the drag?

Triple Jim · July 22nd, 2017, 04:35 PM

Yes, that sounds like your clutch may not be fully disengaging when you pull the lever. You might try starting the engine, and with the bike not moving, put it in 1st gear with the clutch lever pulled all the way, and see if the bike is trying to move forward. Mine sometimes acts like you said, but once the engine is running, there is no evidence of the clutch dragging.

Here's information about clutch adjustment:
https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Adjust...e_clutch_cable

Here's the main how-to listing:
https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Ninja250_Howto

kvgeorge1 · July 22nd, 2017, 04:48 PM

Just for the record, when I squeeze the clutch lever in, should the back wheel rotate freely just like it was in neutral? Or, should there be friction on the wheel?

Triple Jim · July 22nd, 2017, 05:31 PM

All I can tell you for sure is that if the engine is running and you're stopped, and the transmission is in 1st gear with the clutch lever pulled fully to the bar, the bike should not be trying to move forward, and you should be able to shift to neutral.

kvgeorge1 · July 22nd, 2017, 05:35 PM

I may be going down a wrong path then. JacRyann mentioned earlier that if I could not spin the tire in 1st gear with the clutch pulled in, then I have clutch drag. Now, I cannot freely spin the wheel like this - it has a lot of friction and needs effort to get the wheel to spin, BUT, if I pull in the clutch and the bike is running, it doesn't move.

So, now I am confused.

Triple Jim · July 22nd, 2017, 05:47 PM

MIne drags when in gear, lever pulled in, and I'm moving it around the garage, but not when running. I don't think clutch drag is related to your problem(s).

To be clear, I mean the bike does not try to move, and can be shifted to neutral when:

1. engine is running, and
2. transmission is in 1st gear, and
3. clutch lever is pulled to the bar

kvgeorge1 · July 22nd, 2017, 05:58 PM

Yes, correct. It does that and I just verified that I can start going, pull in the clutch, and the engine/transmission disengages. I still have the problem though and I have adjusted the clutch cable as far as I can.

Triple Jim · July 22nd, 2017, 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kvgeorge1

Yes, correct. It does that and I just verified that I can start going, pull in the clutch, and the engine/transmission disengages. I still have the problem though and I have adjusted the clutch cable as far as I can.

Did you read the procedure in the link I posted? There are adjustments at both ends of the cable.

DannoXYZ · July 22nd, 2017, 06:35 PM

Hmmm, I'm not convinced you need to adjust cable. The noise symptoms appear more like busted clutch basket or busted gears.

When you have it in 1st-gear with clutch squeezed, where along the release does it start to engage? Near the beginning? Near the end? About 1/2-way?

kvgeorge1 · July 22nd, 2017, 07:00 PM

Probably about 1/2 of the way of release. However, the sound doesn't start until about 3/4 of the way and it doesn't ALWAYS happen, but it is happening more and more frequently. Today, it happened about 90% of the time in 1st gear (there was 1 time where it didn't at about 10 attempts or so).

kvgeorge1 · July 24th, 2017, 05:40 AM

Ok, I know THIS is going to sound strange, but I went on a test drive again and the sound seems to be coming from behind me, instead of below/in-front of me. Could this be a loose chain issue - like maybe the chain slipping on the sprocket?

Triple Jim · July 24th, 2017, 06:52 AM

Yes, if your chain and sprockets are worn out, and the chain is too loose, you could be slipping teeth, and you'd notice it most in 1st gear, when the forces are the highest.

DannoXYZ · July 24th, 2017, 07:39 AM

Cable is adjusted properly.

Check your chain wear rate and tension.

kvgeorge1 · July 28th, 2017, 05:46 PM

So, it DOES look like it is the chain. There is practically NO teeth left on the front-sprocket. I purchased one on eBay that says it would fit a 2008 250R, but alas it doesn't (the inner teeth on the sprocket are slightly off and not the same width).

Anyone know where I can purchase one?

Ghostt · July 28th, 2017, 06:06 PM

Try Amazon, that's where I get mine from

Triple Jim · July 28th, 2017, 07:41 PM

I like JT sprockets, and I've seen them selling on Amazon.

DannoXYZ · July 28th, 2017, 08:09 PM

Chain and sprockets wear into each other. Measure wear on chain and rear sprocket. You may need to replace those too. Using new sprocket with worn chain wears sprocket teeth quickly and you'll be right back in same clackity noise situation soon.

Mohawk · July 29th, 2017, 12:40 AM

If the bike gpwas not properly maintained which appears to be the case re the dirty oil. Then the clutch may be dragging due to dirty oil build up on the plates. Plenty of fresh oil washing over the plates with the clutch disengaged should help clean the plates. Proper adjustment will help.

As has been said if the front sprocket has broken teeth, then replace the chain & BOTH sprockets, this will give you the longest service life from the new chain. An old trick I use is to buy 2 front & 1 rear sprocket with every chain. A good quality X-ring chain should last at least 20,000 miles if maintained. So change the front sprocket at 10k miles with the spare & you will have the best use from your chain. Most bikes have a 2x-3x larger rear sprocket, so the front sprocket teeth get 2-3x the impact wear that the rear does, plus they turn the chain tighter which increases the wear rates !

Have fun.

DannoXYZ · July 29th, 2017, 04:47 PM

You can also flip rear sprocket...

Triple Jim · July 29th, 2017, 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JacRyann

You can also flip rear sprocket...

Yes, most of the time. You may have to countersink or counterbore the mounting holes in some cases, but I'm a fan of flipping sprockets to use the other side of the teeth.

kvgeorge1 · August 5th, 2017, 07:24 PM

THAT WAS IT!!!! Yup - the chain. The new one is one and working like a champ. Thanks everyone for your help.

July 22nd, 2017, 08:44 AM	#5
KikRox ninjette.org member Name: Nein Location: Canada Join Date: Jun 2017 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Ninja 250r se Posts: 100	I had all sorts of issues with false neutrals, clunking, and crunching as well in the past and it was due to a mis-adjusted shifter linkage. take the lever off, adjust the tie rod ends outward so it snugs it up (giving it more leverage for shifting up gears) then take it for a spin and see what happens. __________________________________________________ They should give me my own section called kik rox is a silly **** who breaks stuff.

July 28th, 2017, 06:06 PM	#34
Ghostt in your machine Name: Scott Location: Summer Shade, Ky. Join Date: Oct 2014 Motorcycle(s): 98 Ninja 250/F12 aka ZX-2R "SERENITY", 91 Ninja 500/A5 aka ZX-5R "Phoenix", 84 Honda GL1200A "SIREN" Posts: A lot. Blog Entries: 25 MOTM - Jun '17, May '16, Mar '15	Try Amazon, that's where I get mine from __________________________________________________ *violente et ignorantia* ZX-2R BLOG *Twitter and Instagram = Ghostt_Scott* *I'm not here to change your mind, just to inform.*

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
missing the washer between my oil filter and the spring	corralhollowkid	1986 - 2007 Ninja 250R Tech Talk	14	July 22nd, 2017 02:36 PM
Changed oil filter & missing washer	areifel	2013 - 2017 Ninja 300 Tech Talk	1	September 10th, 2013 09:47 AM
Oil filter change - missing parts	HorizonXP	2008 - 2012 Ninja 250R Tech Talk	12	August 29th, 2010 09:26 PM
Oil Filter Shield Missing-is this really bad?	diablo250	2008 - 2012 Ninja 250R Tech Talk	10	March 31st, 2010 09:08 PM
Missing oil filter washer	JokerSeven	2008 - 2012 Ninja 250R Tech Talk	2	February 21st, 2010 07:23 PM

July 21st, 2017, 05:20 PM	#1
kvgeorge1 ninjette.org member Name: Ken Location: houston Join Date: Jul 2017 Motorcycle(s): EX250J Posts: 47	Missing Oil Filter Fence I just purchased a 2008 Ninja 250R from a friend of mine and noticed that it needed an oil change (oil was black as pitch). Now, I also noticed that the level was too high. So, I began the process of draining the oil and removing the filter. Low and behold, when I removed the filter, the filter fence is missing. I am no mechanic and this is all new to me (including motorcycles), so my questions/concerns are: 1. Is this a big deal? 2. Could this cause issues with the clutch and/or transmission since this bike has a wet-clutch? 3. Could damage be caused by over-filling the oil?

July 21st, 2017, 08:51 PM	#4
Triple Jim Guy Who Enjoys Riding Name: Jim Location: North Carolina Join Date: Jul 2016 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 Posts: A lot. MOTM - Oct '18, Aug '17, Aug '16	I doubt if too much oil caused that. Too much oil typically causes contact with the crank, which foams the oil, and while that's not horrible, it's not good. I doubt if foamy oil would affect transmission engagement. Check to be sure your shift linkage is free and not hitting something that makes it not travel as far as it should.

July 22nd, 2017, 11:58 AM	#6
kvgeorge1 ninjette.org member Name: Ken Location: houston Join Date: Jul 2017 Motorcycle(s): EX250J Posts: 47	The irritating thing about all this is that we only put less than 200 miles on it and already having these problems. Is this a sign that the friction plates need to be changed, or that the transmission is messed up?

July 22nd, 2017, 12:23 PM	#7
DannoXYZ ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: AKA JacRyann Location: Mesa, AZ Join Date: Dec 2011 Motorcycle(s): CB125T CBR250R-MC19 CBR250RR-MC22 NSR350R-MC21 VF500F CBR600RR SFV650 VFR750F R1M ST1300PA Valkyrie-F6C Posts: A lot. MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17	Sounds like clutch-cable needs adjustment. Clutch plates aren't fully disengaging and causing difficulty shifting.

July 22nd, 2017, 12:28 PM	#8
kvgeorge1 ninjette.org member Name: Ken Location: houston Join Date: Jul 2017 Motorcycle(s): EX250J Posts: 47	I haven't replaced the clutch. I did tighten-up the cable, but all I did was change the oil. I guess I am asking if the banging is due to a failing clutch, or how can you tell if the clutch is bad vs. needing to change the friction plates, vs. anything else. The sound it makes is a though things aren't sync'ing properly (just a guess mind you) when releasing the clutch or giving it some gas.

July 22nd, 2017, 12:49 PM	#9
Triple Jim Guy Who Enjoys Riding Name: Jim Location: North Carolina Join Date: Jul 2016 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 Posts: A lot. MOTM - Oct '18, Aug '17, Aug '16	Did you take a close look at the shift linkage yet?

July 22nd, 2017, 12:57 PM	#10
kvgeorge1 ninjette.org member Name: Ken Location: houston Join Date: Jul 2017 Motorcycle(s): EX250J Posts: 47	I haven't yet. I am new to this so I am trying to get my head around what you are asking me to do. My confusion/concern about this is that we purchased the bike used (had 14,800 miles on it), and we put 200 miles on it. Out of the blue, it starts to have this issue. I'm not sure I understand how adjusting the clutch lever could fix this. Can you help me understand this a bit better?

July 22nd, 2017, 01:10 PM	#11
DannoXYZ ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: AKA JacRyann Location: Mesa, AZ Join Date: Dec 2011 Motorcycle(s): CB125T CBR250R-MC19 CBR250RR-MC22 NSR350R-MC21 VF500F CBR600RR SFV650 VFR750F R1M ST1300PA Valkyrie-F6C Posts: A lot. MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17	Clutch cable should be adjusted to release and engage about 1/2-way through lever-travel. The linkages should be set to both ends are 90-degrees to rod. Clutch-wear would not cause sticky-shifts as the plates are no longer rubbing. Worn-clutch makes for easy shifting, don't even have to touch lever at all!

July 22nd, 2017, 01:36 PM	#12
Triple Jim Guy Who Enjoys Riding Name: Jim Location: North Carolina Join Date: Jul 2016 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 Posts: A lot. MOTM - Oct '18, Aug '17, Aug '16	The linkage I'm referring to is the system of the shift lever, the rod, and the arm on the transmission. It's adjustable, and can get bent in crashes. Move the lever through its travel in both directions and see if anything is preventing any of the parts from moving freely. The easy neutral finding feature of this transmission complicates things a little. I think if you ride the bike and get it into 3rd gear and then roll to a stop and shut off the engine, you can then put the bike on its center stand and shift while turning the rear wheel a little so the transmission engages the next gear. By doing this and observing the linkage closely, you can see if something is interfering with its movement.

July 22nd, 2017, 01:40 PM	#13
kvgeorge1 ninjette.org member Name: Ken Location: houston Join Date: Jul 2017 Motorcycle(s): EX250J Posts: 47	Ah, ok. I took the shifter off and put it back on. Also, made sure that the cable was correctly adjusted. Still no joy. When I shift, there is nothing is the way of the shifter actually shifting, and I can feel the gears shift. The problem is when I release the clutch to actually move. That's when the rapid banging it happening like it is not in gear, then suddenly it will fall into gear and I move.

July 22nd, 2017, 01:46 PM	#14
kvgeorge1 ninjette.org member Name: Ken Location: houston Join Date: Jul 2017 Motorcycle(s): EX250J Posts: 47	Oh, one other thing I noticed. I can put the bike into 1st gear or neutral without having to pull in the clutch when the bike is off. Is this normal?

July 22nd, 2017, 02:19 PM	#16
kvgeorge1 ninjette.org member Name: Ken Location: houston Join Date: Jul 2017 Motorcycle(s): EX250J Posts: 47	Ding, ding, ding! We have a winner! CLUTCH is dragging. Ok, how do I fix that?

July 22nd, 2017, 02:26 PM	#17
DannoXYZ ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: AKA JacRyann Location: Mesa, AZ Join Date: Dec 2011 Motorcycle(s): CB125T CBR250R-MC19 CBR250RR-MC22 NSR350R-MC21 VF500F CBR600RR SFV650 VFR750F R1M ST1300PA Valkyrie-F6C Posts: A lot. MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17	Here's a picture of gearbox, note that each "gear" is actually pairs of two gears, one on input-shaft and one on output-shaft. They are selected by shifter-forks that slides pairs of gears along both shafts. Gears engage of different sizes for different gear-ratios. Now, in order for these gear-pairs to disengage, slide and different pairs re-engage, it's obvious that two shafts should be spinning at same rate right? Now, this is where the clutch comes in (right). Engine drives the outside of the clutch-basket and input-shaft is connected to the inside of clutch-basket. With clutch engaged, input-shaft spins in-sync with crankshaft at ratio of primary-drive gearing. When stopped, output-shaft is stationary, but engine is spinning, thus input-shaft is also spinning. Trying to change gears will be difficult because one gear on output-shaft is not moving, while matching gear on input-shaft is spinning with engine. Squeezing clutch lever then separates the clutch-halves and allows engine to continue spinning outside clutch-basket while inside stops and input-shaft stops. With both input & output-shaft stopped, you can then slide next gear-pairs together. IF the clutch doesn't disengage fully, then trying to shift a spinning-gear into a stationary-gear will be difficult, you'll end up with gear-grinding and banging. IF it's making this kind of noise when you let out clutch-lever, then this can be caused by broken gears, mis-aligned half-engaged gears, and/or clutch-basket or clutch-disc fingers broken. Try more positive and forceful gear-shifter movements so you can feel it clank at end of travel. Like slamming ammo clip into gun. Half-assing it will cause problems, hit it until it's at end of travel every time.

July 22nd, 2017, 04:09 PM	#19
Triple Jim Guy Who Enjoys Riding Name: Jim Location: North Carolina Join Date: Jul 2016 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 Posts: A lot. MOTM - Oct '18, Aug '17, Aug '16	He said a more positive and forceful gear shifter movement, not a forceful clutch lever movement. Pull the clutch lever and then be firm with the shift lever using your left boot. If the clutch is dragging, it needs to be adjusted, either at the hand lever or at the other end of the cable.

July 22nd, 2017, 04:35 PM	#21
Triple Jim Guy Who Enjoys Riding Name: Jim Location: North Carolina Join Date: Jul 2016 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 Posts: A lot. MOTM - Oct '18, Aug '17, Aug '16	Yes, that sounds like your clutch may not be fully disengaging when you pull the lever. You might try starting the engine, and with the bike not moving, put it in 1st gear with the clutch lever pulled all the way, and see if the bike is trying to move forward. Mine sometimes acts like you said, but once the engine is running, there is no evidence of the clutch dragging. Here's information about clutch adjustment: https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Adjust...e_clutch_cable Here's the main how-to listing: https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Ninja250_Howto

July 22nd, 2017, 04:48 PM	#22
kvgeorge1 ninjette.org member Name: Ken Location: houston Join Date: Jul 2017 Motorcycle(s): EX250J Posts: 47	Just for the record, when I squeeze the clutch lever in, should the back wheel rotate freely just like it was in neutral? Or, should there be friction on the wheel?

July 22nd, 2017, 05:31 PM	#23
Triple Jim Guy Who Enjoys Riding Name: Jim Location: North Carolina Join Date: Jul 2016 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 Posts: A lot. MOTM - Oct '18, Aug '17, Aug '16	All I can tell you for sure is that if the engine is running and you're stopped, and the transmission is in 1st gear with the clutch lever pulled fully to the bar, the bike should not be trying to move forward, and you should be able to shift to neutral.

July 22nd, 2017, 05:35 PM	#24
kvgeorge1 ninjette.org member Name: Ken Location: houston Join Date: Jul 2017 Motorcycle(s): EX250J Posts: 47	I may be going down a wrong path then. JacRyann mentioned earlier that if I could not spin the tire in 1st gear with the clutch pulled in, then I have clutch drag. Now, I cannot freely spin the wheel like this - it has a lot of friction and needs effort to get the wheel to spin, BUT, if I pull in the clutch and the bike is running, it doesn't move. So, now I am confused.

July 22nd, 2017, 05:47 PM	#25
Triple Jim Guy Who Enjoys Riding Name: Jim Location: North Carolina Join Date: Jul 2016 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 Posts: A lot. MOTM - Oct '18, Aug '17, Aug '16	MIne drags when in gear, lever pulled in, and I'm moving it around the garage, but not when running. I don't think clutch drag is related to your problem(s). To be clear, I mean the bike does not try to move, and can be shifted to neutral when: 1. engine is running, and 2. transmission is in 1st gear, and 3. clutch lever is pulled to the bar

July 22nd, 2017, 05:58 PM	#26
kvgeorge1 ninjette.org member Name: Ken Location: houston Join Date: Jul 2017 Motorcycle(s): EX250J Posts: 47	Yes, correct. It does that and I just verified that I can start going, pull in the clutch, and the engine/transmission disengages. I still have the problem though and I have adjusted the clutch cable as far as I can.

July 22nd, 2017, 06:35 PM	#28
DannoXYZ ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: AKA JacRyann Location: Mesa, AZ Join Date: Dec 2011 Motorcycle(s): CB125T CBR250R-MC19 CBR250RR-MC22 NSR350R-MC21 VF500F CBR600RR SFV650 VFR750F R1M ST1300PA Valkyrie-F6C Posts: A lot. MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17	Hmmm, I'm not convinced you need to adjust cable. The noise symptoms appear more like busted clutch basket or busted gears. When you have it in 1st-gear with clutch squeezed, where along the release does it start to engage? Near the beginning? Near the end? About 1/2-way?

July 22nd, 2017, 07:00 PM	#29
kvgeorge1 ninjette.org member Name: Ken Location: houston Join Date: Jul 2017 Motorcycle(s): EX250J Posts: 47	Probably about 1/2 of the way of release. However, the sound doesn't start until about 3/4 of the way and it doesn't ALWAYS happen, but it is happening more and more frequently. Today, it happened about 90% of the time in 1st gear (there was 1 time where it didn't at about 10 attempts or so).

July 24th, 2017, 05:40 AM	#30
kvgeorge1 ninjette.org member Name: Ken Location: houston Join Date: Jul 2017 Motorcycle(s): EX250J Posts: 47	Ok, I know THIS is going to sound strange, but I went on a test drive again and the sound seems to be coming from behind me, instead of below/in-front of me. Could this be a loose chain issue - like maybe the chain slipping on the sprocket?

July 24th, 2017, 06:52 AM	#31
Triple Jim Guy Who Enjoys Riding Name: Jim Location: North Carolina Join Date: Jul 2016 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 Posts: A lot. MOTM - Oct '18, Aug '17, Aug '16	Yes, if your chain and sprockets are worn out, and the chain is too loose, you could be slipping teeth, and you'd notice it most in 1st gear, when the forces are the highest.

July 24th, 2017, 07:39 AM	#32
DannoXYZ ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: AKA JacRyann Location: Mesa, AZ Join Date: Dec 2011 Motorcycle(s): CB125T CBR250R-MC19 CBR250RR-MC22 NSR350R-MC21 VF500F CBR600RR SFV650 VFR750F R1M ST1300PA Valkyrie-F6C Posts: A lot. MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17	Cable is adjusted properly. Check your chain wear rate and tension.

July 28th, 2017, 05:46 PM	#33
kvgeorge1 ninjette.org member Name: Ken Location: houston Join Date: Jul 2017 Motorcycle(s): EX250J Posts: 47	So, it DOES look like it is the chain. There is practically NO teeth left on the front-sprocket. I purchased one on eBay that says it would fit a 2008 250R, but alas it doesn't (the inner teeth on the sprocket are slightly off and not the same width). Anyone know where I can purchase one?

July 28th, 2017, 07:41 PM	#35
Triple Jim Guy Who Enjoys Riding Name: Jim Location: North Carolina Join Date: Jul 2016 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 Posts: A lot. MOTM - Oct '18, Aug '17, Aug '16	I like JT sprockets, and I've seen them selling on Amazon.

July 28th, 2017, 08:09 PM	#36
DannoXYZ ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: AKA JacRyann Location: Mesa, AZ Join Date: Dec 2011 Motorcycle(s): CB125T CBR250R-MC19 CBR250RR-MC22 NSR350R-MC21 VF500F CBR600RR SFV650 VFR750F R1M ST1300PA Valkyrie-F6C Posts: A lot. MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17	Chain and sprockets wear into each other. Measure wear on chain and rear sprocket. You may need to replace those too. Using new sprocket with worn chain wears sprocket teeth quickly and you'll be right back in same clackity noise situation soon.

July 29th, 2017, 12:40 AM	#37
Mohawk ninjette.org guru Name: Chris Location: Bristol, UK Join Date: Feb 2016 Motorcycle(s): ZZR250, VFR800 Posts: 475	If the bike gpwas not properly maintained which appears to be the case re the dirty oil. Then the clutch may be dragging due to dirty oil build up on the plates. Plenty of fresh oil washing over the plates with the clutch disengaged should help clean the plates. Proper adjustment will help. As has been said if the front sprocket has broken teeth, then replace the chain & BOTH sprockets, this will give you the longest service life from the new chain. An old trick I use is to buy 2 front & 1 rear sprocket with every chain. A good quality X-ring chain should last at least 20,000 miles if maintained. So change the front sprocket at 10k miles with the spare & you will have the best use from your chain. Most bikes have a 2x-3x larger rear sprocket, so the front sprocket teeth get 2-3x the impact wear that the rear does, plus they turn the chain tighter which increases the wear rates ! Have fun.

July 29th, 2017, 04:47 PM	#38
DannoXYZ ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: AKA JacRyann Location: Mesa, AZ Join Date: Dec 2011 Motorcycle(s): CB125T CBR250R-MC19 CBR250RR-MC22 NSR350R-MC21 VF500F CBR600RR SFV650 VFR750F R1M ST1300PA Valkyrie-F6C Posts: A lot. MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17	You can also flip rear sprocket...