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View Poll Results: Cam cover bolt sheared should I...
Drop engine 0 0%
Buy more tools! 1 50.00%
Torch it! 1 50.00%
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Old April 30th, 2019, 09:28 AM   #1
psykown
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Cam shaft bolt sheared

Ok, so doing a valve adjustment an intake can bolt sheared while putting everything back together(I swear I was torquing to spec with a torque wrench!) I don’t have anything currently that’ll let me drilll it out while still in the frame, or drill won’t fit between the frame rails, any ideas or recommendations before I drop the engine?
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Old April 30th, 2019, 11:53 AM   #2
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Looking at extension chucks now think I might try that route first for $10
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Old April 30th, 2019, 12:49 PM   #3
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My experience with screw extractors is nil, but id guess it would be easier to just remove the cyl head instead of the whole engine.
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Old April 30th, 2019, 01:34 PM   #4
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If you can get a straight shot at it i would get a long drill extension, fresh bit, and easy-out, and give it a try before pulling the engine or head.

Even if there isn't a straight shot, you may be able to drill the proper hole with a flex extension on a drill.

I would exhaust all possibilities, without damaging the head, before disassembly.
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Old April 30th, 2019, 01:46 PM   #5
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If you can get a hold of a left handed drill bit and there aren’t any access issues I’d start there.
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Old April 30th, 2019, 01:52 PM   #6
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One more thing, stick a small screw driver or pick I the hole with the broken bolt and try to wiggle it. If the piece of bolt wiggle at all you can put the top/head piece of the bolt back in place and put a impact on it. If you push down pretty hard and run the impact in reverse it can drive the broke piece back out. I’ve had decent luck with this in the past.
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Old April 30th, 2019, 11:00 PM   #7
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Awesome ideas guys! This is why I came here first! Tomorrow morning I’ll try the bolt head and impact idea, if it doesn’t work I found some chuck extensions at. For reasonably cheap (it is a straight shot and I do have a left hand bit and extractor) and thanks a ton for the recommendation about only pulling the head, I hadn’t even thought of that, definitely saves some work if things go south
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Old May 1st, 2019, 10:09 AM   #8
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It’s out! Life is all good again lol drilled it out just a hair and then was able to use the sheared top half of the boltto get the rest back out ���� Thanks a ton for the help guys!
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Old May 1st, 2019, 12:22 PM   #9
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Good tip by Kowalski!
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Old May 3rd, 2019, 07:33 PM   #10
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Left hand drill bit half the diameter of the bolt usually works.

As an aside, when working on old bikes, sometimes a torque wrench isn't the best tool to use. Ironically, just using a ring spanner and finger tight FEEL of the bolt can tell you if the threads are going to pull out or if there is resistance when tightening.

Had to helicoil far too many camshaft cap bolts because they'd been overtightened and pulled the alloy threads out of the head. Not fun.

If I owned this bike, I would replace all the camshaft cap bolts as a precaution.
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Old May 4th, 2019, 02:18 AM   #11
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The impact idea is a good one to try. If the broken off portion can’t be persuaded to come out it may be possible to get it to go further in. If you can get it to go in a few more threads you can then screw in a stud with some loctite to secure it as a replacement for the bolt. I have done this on a GPX250 and it worked fine. The bolts seem to be very soft on these bikes and you can almost feel them stretch as you torque then down. And as Linkin says above replace all the bolts and snug them down by hand rather than torque them.
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Old May 4th, 2019, 04:15 PM   #12
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I can pull engine in less time than it takes for head removal. You also won't need to replace headgasket.
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Old May 4th, 2019, 05:19 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psykown View Post
Ok, so doing a valve adjustment an intake can bolt sheared while putting everything back together(I swear I was torquing to spec with a torque wrench!) I don’t have anything currently that’ll let me drilll it out while still in the frame, or drill won’t fit between the frame rails, any ideas or recommendations before I drop the engine?
That top bolt in your hand also looks ready to break at nearly the same place
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Old May 4th, 2019, 10:13 PM   #14
psykown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Linkin View Post
Left hand drill bit half the diameter of the bolt usually works.

As an aside, when working on old bikes, sometimes a torque wrench isn't the best tool to use. Ironically, just using a ring spanner and finger tight FEEL of the bolt can tell you if the threads are going to pull out or if there is resistance when tightening.

Had to helicoil far too many camshaft cap bolts because they'd been overtightened and pulled the alloy threads out of the head. Not fun.

If I owned this bike, I would replace all the camshaft cap bolts as a precaution.
I did end up replacing the intake cam bolts just Incase with new stock bolts, the bike runs great now! The impact wrench ideeadidthe trick
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Old May 4th, 2019, 10:16 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by 59096 View Post
That top bolt in your hand also looks ready to break at nearly the same place
Hat other bolt did come close, that’s what tipped me off to the first bolt shearing, it had felt like it stretched so I moved to the next wine, felt that shear, then immediately backed out the first stretched one.
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Old May 4th, 2019, 10:17 PM   #16
psykown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
I can pull engine in less time than it takes for head removal. You also won't need to replace headgasket.
Haven’t had to pulll an engine yet thankfully, was mostly just using that as a last resort if needed, this forum always had a few great ideas that work 😉
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