SPORTISI's NINJA 250/300EFI TURBOCHARGER KIT

[Racer x]

I am cureous to see the flange that blots to the turbo.

[garth285]

for the exhaust or the turbo or the inlet of the turbo?

[Racer x]

The one from the turbo to the exhaust pipe. Mine was a flat plate with a hole in it. The plate blocked the waste gate from opening.

[JohnnyBravo]

Ima need somebody to figure this out... I want moar powaaaaaaa

[garth285]

Originally Posted by Racer x

The one from the turbo to the exhaust pipe. Mine was a flat plate with a hole in it. The plate blocked the waste gate from opening.

Oh mine was open. I did see a flange like that before though I thought the same thing if it was closed it might block the wastegate

[Racer x]

Right my flange is not like that. I need that flange and my flange. Is your flange available? I need that piece

[garth285]

I bought my turbo from this guy, maybe contact him and ask?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Turboch...bc6f4e&vxp=mtr

[Racer x]

perfect
i should but a back up turbo and get the flange with it.

[garth285]

Plenty of clearance.... will be posting pics on my blog here shortly:

[choneofakind]

Any more movement on the turbo kit, or is this thread (and product) basically dead?

[ForceofWill]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

Any more movement on the turbo kit, or is this thread (and product) basically dead?

Got me excited for this thread...

[choneofakind]

Originally Posted by ForceofWill

Got me excited for this thread...

Yeah, total thread resurrection bump there. I was just thinking about it and was curious what happened to this. Seems no one is even interested in the whole turbo thing, even though everyone was all ZOMG EFI! when the 300 came out. Go figure

[TikkaSamurai]

Soooo, any news? ahaha, think I am late..

[DannoXYZ]

Yes, you are too late, Sportisi USA is no more. Here's what you need for power and durable turbo installation:

1. programmable standalone aftermarket EFI system. Mega/MicroSquirt, Haltech, MoTeC, Electromotive TEC, etc. Best to install EFI system on bike first, and program it for NA mode and running well before adding turbo.

2. wideband O2-sensor: AEM, TechEdge, etc. Stay away from Innovate (very long story involving Porsches). Again, best to add to bike and use it to tune EFI in NA mode first. Get one with digital on-board datalogging so you don't have to use laptop to collect data. Much more precise and safer than staring at tiny 50mm wideband gauge while going down street at 200kph+.

3. smallest turbo on market, Garrett GT0632SZ good for ~80bhp. Everyone is using cheaper VZ21 RHB31 but that's way, way too large of turbo good for ~150bhp. Will end up with lots of lag and surge at low-throttle/low-RPMs.

4. custom exhaust and intercooler piping to fit. Best to position turbo as high as possible so drain can have straight run to oil-pan above oil-level for complete drainage. Also intercooler is must-have when running 1-bar+ boost (minimum amount to make this effort worthwhile). This will give you about 50bhp at rear-wheel or little more than Ninja 400.

5. forged pistons & con-rods. At some point, pressure and heat from boost and extra pressure will fry factory pistons & con-rods. You can wait til it blows to rebuild, but may end up with destroyed engine-cases as well. JE, Wiseco, CP, Mahle, Arias, Wossner (my favourite) all can make strong forged hypereutectic pistons for boosted applications. If you don't know all details to fill out their piston order-form, call them for help and discuss your project.

6. stiffer intake-valve springs. You'll have valve-float at high-RPMs and collisions with pistons due to boost holding intake valves open. Might as well replace valves with 1mm larger 300 valves while there. Port & polish intake to match as new-gen 250 has extremely restricted ports and conservative cam-specs.

7. hours and hours of dyno-tuning. You can come close with wideband, but will still need actual dyno-testing to dial in last 10% of mixture & ignition-maps.


In end, you'll have turbo bike that'll have at least double power than stock. Or more if you have good tune from wideband and dyno-testing. AND most importantly, it'll last for years rather than months like all ones we've seen before blowing up. Key ingredient here is properly dialing in fuel & ignition-maps that fits your configuration.

NO, don't even think about ecotrons...

[TikkaSamurai]

Thanks for the fast response! My New Gen Ninja 250 08 came with EFI from the factory, and do you know anything about the cost of a turbo build?

[DannoXYZ]

Mostly same process as carbureted 250. You'll want to replace most of factory EFI system anyway:

- replace factory ECU with aftermarket fully-programmable EFI system
- replace most of factory harness for EFI section anyway. Adapting/splicing connectors is messy
- replace factory fuel-pump with higher-volume aftermarket pump with 2-3x flow capacity

- replace factory injectors with aftermarket with 2-3x flow capacity. Might even want to go with staged/sequential injectors, 2x per cylinder (4 total). Problem with many turbo bikes is shortest injector-pulse using large injectors is still too much fuel for clean idle. So having 2 smaller injectors gives you good idle and 2nd injector comes on around 5-6K rpms to support high-flow needed for boost. This requires ECU that supports 2 staged injectors per cylinder with 2 separate fuel-maps per cylinder and knows how to blend them.

- replace individual throttle-bodies with common-plenum intake-manifold with single throttle-body. This is to combine and balance uneven pulses from uneven firing. I recommend using MAF sensor before intake-manifold rather than factory MAP sensor. Much cleaner signal without uneven pulses from MAP-sensor causing trouble with load-calculations. Use alpha-N combination of TPS-position and MAF-flow signal for load-calculations.

After all EFI system upgrades needed to support turbo, you may only reuse TPS and factory injector connectors and that's it!

As for costs, add up individual parts and double or triple cost. Parts may be only 20-25% of total cost. Another 20-40% will be installation depending upon how much cutting and welding you can do yourself. Final 30-40% is tuning and dyno costs. This final part is why so many turbo bikes only lasts couple weeks before blowing. Insufficient time tuning on dyno, especially at 100% throttle in top-gear. Many end up with lean AFR and overheat pistons and exhaust-valves, causing them to melt. Also ignition-timing is extremely important and most people re-use factory 2D ignition maps, which is completely wrong for turbo. You'll want 3D map and fine-tune ignition maps in top 50% load rows for operation above 1atm.

Check out this thread for latest turbo-build: https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=334518